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T3 Doka "project"

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ELVIS View Drop Down
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote ELVIS Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 17 May 11 at 22:22
 If vikings were alive they would arrive in Dokas and do the raping in the back!
 
Good effort chap!
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote Tee3 Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 17 May 11 at 22:27
"raping in the back"?

wont they get a shitty knob?

YOU CANT EDUCATE GAMMON

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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote ELVIS Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 17 May 11 at 23:04
 your so wrong on so many levels!
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote rowlesy Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 18 May 11 at 18:29
get yourself a nice velle hatch and surround! makes life easier!
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote kooldubs Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 18 May 11 at 19:01
got a wider hatch and lid here you can take out of a van for free if you want it..im doing the same to mine 
 
my doka is in a similar state as yours at the mo...but i have no top hats and we are replacing the 60 x 40mm box section that the gates hinge too, i must up load my pix to the thread i started...


Edited by kooldubs - 18 May 11 at 19:01
86 t3 doka & 2001 T4 2.5 TDI
07752280999...
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote Lits Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 22 May 11 at 22:05


Ha ha vikings, see what you mean the cross members are a bit long-boatesk! LOL


Thanks for offer kooldubs, I haven't decided what to do with engine hatch yet.


Think I am going to fabricate something but if not I ll PM you. Smile
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote Lits Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 13 Jul 11 at 21:38


MOT Tomorrow Ermm

Adjusted hand brake before work and fitted front wheel bearings to both sides after!

Both were advisories last year! Embarrassed



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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote Lits Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 15 Jul 11 at 22:36


Passed MOT  Big smile

Only 2 advisories, slightly corroded N/S/R brake pipe, and rear wheel slight binding
(over enthusiastic hand brake adjustment) 

well pleased  Approve  can carry on with load bed and my continual battle with the rust! 


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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote Lits Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 17 Jul 11 at 21:18



I borrowed brake flaring tool "just in case" before mot and thought i might as well do advised n/s/r

brake pipe, i still had some rear stainless brake hoses from the kit which i used the fronts on last 

years mot. For a change all went well so i decided to do other rear pipe and hose.






There was even someone in at work to give me a bleed! saved me spraying brake fluid around the


inside of the van with my newly purchased ebay Eezibleed bleeding kit. Embarrassed






I didn't take any pictures of doing the front bearings all fairly straight forward no real dramas,

I used the mig to get the casings out don't know if anyone else uses this idea:






If you carefully run weld round casing it contracts it, they then just tap out really easily.

(I might be posting something obvious here but its something i ve done at work a few times) Smile




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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote max and caddy Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 17 Jul 11 at 22:03
i do that on gearbox bearings at work, some times folk look at me like i have gone mental, works a treat. a real trade secret i reckon...well it was.
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote jim painter Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 19 Jul 11 at 18:19
I normally get a big washer or piece of steel and bridge the bearing hole so i dont have to tap around the edges. I just put a drift on said washer and tap it out.
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote max and caddy Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 19 Jul 11 at 18:41
Originally posted by jim painter jim painter wrote:

I normally get a big washer or piece of steel and bridge the bearing hole so i dont have to tap around the edges. I just put a drift on said washer and tap it out.
Jim
 
but on a gearbox the holes are often blind so you cant get behind the race, there are tools for pulling bearings out of these hole but the mig is quicker and never fails, not much use if you want to shim the bearing and put it back tho of course!
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote ..lee.. Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 20 Jul 11 at 09:05
Using a welder to loosen bearing races should be a last resort. You can ovalize the bearing carrier / hub. Check for ovality with an internal micrometer before refit.
it`s a big round cage but there`s too many animals in it for my liking.to address this ring lee on 07977 765818.
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote jim painter Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 20 Jul 11 at 18:08
I used to have a blind bearing puller when i did a lot on the bikes but i sold it as i didnt have a lot of use for it. It was a cracking tool though.
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote Lits Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 09 Jun 13 at 22:35



 I haven't posted for ages but I am still using the doka everyday, its only let me down once
 (that's it not starting tomorrow!Embarrassed) and that was due to a frozen accelerator cable!

I decided to grind/cut this previous repair as there was rust coming through around the edges.




What a task removing pieces like this is Cry













I decided to use a piece of galv sheet which was destined for bed replacement but was partially robbed for another job.





Drilled plate to plug weld to back of pick up. 






Thought I'd replace the damaged cross member too. 


Have more pics to put on, hoping to get more done in coming months! Smile













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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote Lits Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 13 Jun 13 at 21:37


 Once I'd cut the previous repair to the bed/load area bulkhead off and then started to remove

any rust underneath, it became apparent that I was going to have to cut the lip which the drop 

sides butt against, as it was very crusty! The lip joined the rain channel? from the roof as well. I 

wasn't sure how to get round this because cutting back the lip also left the c pillar panel open 

down its edge  (circled below).







 
In the end I decided to make a frame from the 40 x 40 box which I got to repair the bed cross 

members. It meant that the drop sides had something  to close up to, was fairly strong, and

could easily weld the c pillar to it.

  





Once I'd welded where I wanted I ran some seam sealant along all the edges to make sure it was 

all water tight.







I've decided to cover the load bed with aluminium chequer plate. Just need to figure out how I am 

to attach it (and keep it water tight).



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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote Lits Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 13 Jun 13 at 21:40

Why does the text I write only go half way across the page?  Confused


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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote rowlesy Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 14 Jun 13 at 17:33
looks smart lits! hows about rivnuts for the ali floor and countersunk allen bolts to fix them down? you could put a blob of flexy sealer in each rivnut before you tightened it down? or rivet then seam sealer in the blind hole?
 
also hows about a nice roll-bar on top of that 40 x 40 box? make it look like its there for a reason then
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote Lits Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 07 Oct 14 at 23:05
Thread resurrection time, work has been on going on the doka. My progress on up dates has been hampered by computer and then laptop giving up the will to carry on! I just couldn't get with posting pics and typing on the tablet!









































This seams a long time ago, I decided to open up over the engine bay and have a removable bar above the engine itself,

I cut cross members out and started to remove the little bit of rust where cargo floor starts.
















































































The rust had formed where the panel sealer had cracked and let in water.

























































































































Wire brushed up and then krusted.








































Updating this and putting all these pictures is going to keep me out of mischief LOL

More to follow.













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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote Lits Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 08 Oct 14 at 21:22
I used 40 x 40 box  again for crossmembers and welded in 2 tapped plates to bolt brace above engine. This would give me something to attach the aluminium chequer plate engine cover to.








































Looks like there will be plenty of room to "work on engine" from above.








































Quick blast of undercoat.







































Because this is my daily drive I needed some way to keep water off the back till its covered with aluminium. So I decided to make a cover.


Used some light rectangular box to make frame,


 














which I covered with some reinforced fibreglass roof sheet removed from a due to be scrapped truck.









































Roof sheet had some aluminium corners and edging which I decided to reuse. 








































I shaped corners of frame to suit aluminium trim, put some braces in and some flat to sit inside and outside pick up sides.









































I painted it then rivited the roof sheet, which had been cut to size, on top through the aluminium edging and corners. 















Edited by Lits - 08 Oct 14 at 21:56
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