Before doing ANY work, verify the engine is in top shape. Proper compression, cam belt is good, valves are adjusted (if you have solid lifters), pump timing is adjusted to spec, and all that sort of business. I also recommend that if you intend to increase the charge pressure, you should install the metal head gasket as the fibre ones tend to blow rather quickly with added boost.

Ok, now we have that out of the way, the next criteria is to install some instrumentation. A boost gauge and a pyrometer are necessary before any mods occur. Pyrometer probe should be installed preturbo. I put mine in the blockoff plate for the EGR valve. Works great and its directly in the exhaust stream. Anyone that tells you installing an EGT probe preturbo is dangerous is likely only using ebay quality parts. I use Autometer gauges and have had one van up 1900°F and the probe did not magically fall off and go into the turbo.

Obviously, some of you do not have turbos, so no need for a boost gauge and very little of this writeup will help you. There will be a couple of things though. I will put an asterisk next to mods that can be done with and without a turbo.

Ok, now that you have installed the gauges, get a reading as to what the engine is doing when being run flat out. My D24TIC had about 10psi of boost and the EGTs never got above 600°F. When I was done with all the mods below, I was getting 20psi of boost and the temp was about 900°F. Plenty of room for more.

** Governor mod. This governor really is detrimental and removing it will wake up the pep pretty nicely. Applies to all 2.4D engines. Here is a link: http://www.vwdiesel.net/forum/index.php?topic=24323.0 Read the ENTIRE first post before performing any work. I also recommend picking up a pump reseal kit. IIRC the part number is DGK 126 for turbo pumps and DGK 124 for NA pumps. You will want to use a new oring on the throttle shaft and a new oring on the LDA where it mates to the pump body. Yes, I know it talks about 4 cylinders, the procedure is still the same.

Intercooler. If you dont have one, install one. This is very important if you are going to ask more from your turbo diesel.

LDA. There are reports out there and articles everywhere for modding this. What I have found to work the best is as follows.. Remove the 4 flathead screws on the LDA cover. Once you have the cover off, you will see the actuator diaphragm. Pay attention to where it was originally. Generally the factory setting is the dot on the large washer on top of the diaphragm is aligned with a small cutout on the edge of the sealing surface of the LDA body itself. Once you remove the diaphragm (this may take some slight rotating whilst pulling, but dont pull hard) you will see the cone shaped jobbie at the bottom of the shaft. Find the orientation of the cone shaped jobbie where the cone is tapered toward the center of the shaft more than any other portion. This is the portion of the cone you want to ride on the enrichment pin which is at the 12 o'clock position if you are viewing the pump from behind the front seats (sitting above where the transmission is). Now that you have found that, there is the star wheel under the diaphragm. I usually spin this one down about two turns clockwise. On the diaphragm, you will also see a white spacer made from plastic. I usually ditch this thing. However, it might be prudent to measure how far the diaphragm pin goes down before the shoulder on the cone shaped jobbie stops on the pin. I have left this thing out for many thousands of miles with no problem, but I thought I should mention it. 

*** Fuel screw. This is the 6mm hex that has a 13mm lock nut that is directly above the fuel shutoff solenoid. Most of the time there is an anti tamper sleeve on the threads which you may need to cut off. This adjustment can very well cause runaway if you arent careful. I like to tweak mine to the max, but it will take its toll on pedestrians, vehicles behind you, and fuel economy. Loosen the 13mm locknut and screw the 6mm hex in half a turn at a time. Road test between turns at WOT and maximum rpm (watch your tach if you already removed the governor). If you are having any problem with revs hanging, back the screw off 1/4 turn at a time.This will be something that you will need to decide what is right for you. Remember, too much fuel will melt the prechambers and consequently, your engine. So keep an eye on the pyrometer when fiddling with this. Avoid sustained 1400°F temps. You will notice letting off the throttle garners a pretty quick response from the pyrometer.

Charge pressure/boost. What I usually do is remove the hose for the wastegate initially. This shows me what sort of boost I am getting with my current fueling settings (see fuel screw mod above). Keep in mind, more charge pressure on a diesel=lower EGTs. Our turbos are pretty much done around 24psi. Anything more than that is just hot air which is not good for power at all. I recommend keeping an eye on the boost gauge though. I have not seen more than 20 psi in my LT, but the clutch is slipping now, so I will need to update this thread once I get the replacement clutch installed. I will probably need a manual boost controller once I get this all dialed in.

Once you have familiarised yourself with these procedures, you can then tune to your liking. The two main things you are going to be working on are the charge air pressure and the fuel screw adjustment. 

Please feel free to ask questions fro clarity and whatnot. I am not adept at writing tutorials. Hope this helps!

However, I am sure I missed something. Pics are always great, but as you say, time machine would be in order. I am rather hasty when I am in work mode so I dont always think to take pics of things.

My main priorities are reliability and then mpg. I don't mind loosing a bit of mpg but im guessing these mods aren't for me?

Do you think this has any impact on engine life? Im thinking not due to how well the volvo's run with it tuned up.

Have you seen much of a drop in MPG? I have to say, having done the LDA pin change on my AAZ i didn't care and just grinned :) However, the LT gets far less mpg than the AAZ T3.....

Cheers,

Ringo

I would say mileage is all dependent on how you drive it. My GTD (30psi of boost) gets 55mpg on the highway at 75mph.

Of course I cannot speak to the Lt at this time since the clutch is slipping, so of course I will update with more info when I get the replacement clutch kit fitted.

who knows when and if I will see it :/ I ordered it from Larkspeed..

So, what kind of car was that in the video and what did it put down?

Obviously, I dont have one of those and the link I posted directly correlated to my pump. 

Its not necessarily a Volvo pump, its a Bosch VE pump. An industrial pump my very well be different, but I dont see the factory putting an industrial pump on a commercial vehicle..