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T4 lowering thread.

Printed From: The Brick-yard
Category: T4 Section.
Forum Name: T4 Chat
Forum Description: Forum forT4 specific chat.
URL: http://www.brick-yard.co.uk/forum/forum_posts.asp?TID=18663
Printed Date: 20 Apr 24 at 17:51
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Topic: T4 lowering thread.
Posted By: Baxter
Subject: T4 lowering thread.
Date Posted: 24 Aug 07 at 20:43

Okay, start with a bit of as waffle about how to fit them, as it is sooo simple it's unreal..

To lower the rear.

Jack van up, undo lower shock absorber mount, remove spring, fit new, refit shock absorber.
Done.

 

To lower the front.

Jack up van, support on axle stands.
Have a grovel underneath, find the end of the torsion barsbehind the fuel tank, you'll know when you find it as there is a long 18mm ish thread pointing down with a 27mm nut about 4" up it.
This is the nut that sets the tension on the torsion bar, basically if you undo the nut it releases the tension, and lowers the suspension.
The way I do it is to clean up the threads first, then mark the thread where you want to move it to.
If you work on this simple rule you won't be far away.

10mm at the adjuster nut = about 25mm at the wheel.

So, if you have fitted -50mm springs then moving the adjuster by 20mm will lower the front suspension by 50mm.

Obvoiusly, all vans are different so once it's lowered take it for a spin, park it on level ground and check the trim height with a tape measure (wheel centre to wheel arch) and make adjustments to the adjuster nuts as to achieve a level ride.

There are a couple of gotchas, make sure it's on stands as if the upper adjusting bolt thingy comes dislocated the van drops, on you! and if it does come loose, it's a bit of a bastard getting it back in, so just be careful if the adjuster nut is stiffer that it should be.

Now, if you look around at what springs are for sale, and which ones are TUV approved (German standards) you will probably notice that they only seem to go to -45 to -50mm, I think the reason for this is the amount of adjustment there is on the front torsion bar.
It is easier to described once you have seen the set up but basically the adjusting bolt is sort of T shaped at the top, and if there isn't enough pre load on the torsion bar this T shaped piece can be moved about, Now I believe the knack to lowering a T4 and it still stay safe is to lower the nut only enough to leave some pre load on the adjuster bolt.
Leave no preload and the T shaped piece that fits in the chassis and you run the risk of it become dislodged, maybe changing a tyre, or working on the front end.
Lowering anymore that 50mm I would say is probably unsafe, plus they start to drive really baaaad.
I know it's not as cool to not be scraping the ground, but it's safe and is going to handle better using the torsion bars as springs rather than using the bumpstops as springs!!

Done, lowered, easy.



On axles stands, outside your Mums house I would say this is gunna take an hour start to finish.

The most important part is to check the wheel alignment afterwards, very, very important as the T4 seems to be more affected by camber and tracking changes than the T3 is!

Camber is easy in theory, bit of a pain in practise.
If you take the front wheels off you will see the top ball joint, okay, if you just slacken the big balljoint bolt (24mm) then undo the 18mm camber adjuster bolt at the top side of the ball joint, then moving the quadrant changes the camber. if you tap the quadrant towards the front you will get negative camber, towards the rear you will get positive adjustment.
All well and good saying this, but doing it in situ is a bit of an arse of a job.
Another thing worth mentioning is that just like the T3 there is only a certain amount of adjustment on the camber adjusting quadrant, lowering much more than the 50mm and your gunna run out of adjustment and not be able to set the camber up right after you've done your work, which will mean dubious handling and it's gunna scrub the rather expensive tyres you just bought.
Once camber is set, then check and reset tracking.
I reckon on about 1 hour to set wheel alignment at the front.

Also, we have to mention the rear brake load proportioning valve.

Dunno how much you know about these things, so a bit of background first...

Under the van, in the middle, between where the rear arms bolt up is a hydraulic valve attached to each arm by the means of springs, going into the valve assembly are 2 brake pipes carrying basically unregulated brake pressure from the front of the van.
Out of the valve are 2 more pipes going to the rear brakes.
This valve reduces the amount of pressure going to the back brakes, when the van is loaded it opens the valve to increase braking effort to the rear.
In laymans terms it stops the arse end of your van locking up when you anchor on with nowt in't back..

As the valve is attched to the rear arms it basically reads the suspension height and gives proportionally more braking pressure to the rear brakes the more weight you have in.

What cocks this all up is when you lower the van as the valve thinks you have a load in, and gives you more braking effort, which could lead to you locking the rear before the front, which means you could end up in a spin as anyone will remember from their peddaling to school days, locking the back wheel wehn turning usually ends up in tears.
To make our job more difficult, vw have the suspesnion set at a certain height (stock!) to set the valve up, obviosuly when you lower the van you are no longer at stock height and the measurements and readings you are meant to get are kinda worthless.
So, be careful! Something I am thinking about is a sensible way of getting around this niggle that people will be able to implement themselves..

Now, they don't tell you that when your buying springs do they?!

Thats it, job jobbed.

 
Spring choices..
 
Gen VW (888 special springs, white spots)

no Pics, soz like, sure you know tho...

Coils 7.666
Ends - 9.9mm
Thickest part - 19.8mm
Overall height - 255mm

Gen VW (Caravelle - 1996, 2xbrown spots - heavy duty!! may have had wrong springs fitted!!)

No pics.

Coils - 6.75
Ends - 10mm
Thickest part - 17.9mm
Overall height - 270mm


H&R (advertised as -20mm to -40mm, depending on spec of van to start with)



Coils - 7.5
Ends - 10.2mm
Thickest part - 19.7mm
Overall height - 242mm
TUV Cert - http://www.h-r.com/bin/29429n.pdf - Here


KW (advertised as -40mm)



Coils 7.25
Ends - 9.1mm
Thickest part - 19.4mm
Overall height - 245mm
TUV Cert - http://www.kw-gmbh.de/kw_upload/Gutachten/gaTU-002077-L0-215.pdf - Here


Weitec (advertised as -40mm, the lighter duty parallel wire one, the cheaper one)



Coils 7.75
Ends - 13.6mm
Thickest part - 13.6mm
Overall height - 250mm
TUV Cert - http://www.weitec.de/technik/ga/gavw087-2748-02.pdf - Here


Weitec (the proper ones, the tapered wire ones, the ones that will carry weight)



Coils 8
Ends - 10.96mm
Thickest part - 18.5mm
Overall height - 235mm
TUV Cert - http://www.weitec.de/technik/ga/gavw087-2748-02.pdf - Here
 
Eibach - TUV Cert - http://www.eibach.de/gutachten-000.php?filename=e8539-120.pdf&C_lang=#~#C_lang#~# - Here

Drop - 45mm
Coils - 7.5
Ends - 9.8mm
Thickest part - 19.25mm
Overall height - 235mm

Data not verified, taken from Eibach website's TUV cert.

Oh, and anyone ever seen a TUV cert for any Jamex springs?
I don't think I ever did when I sold them, they certainly weren't in the box!

hhmmm....

So, there you go.
The 19mm ain't far off to be fair, but I think it's a bit daft to go saying only anything thats 19mm is "correct" when as you can see from the small range above they vary quite a bit between the brands, the Weitec HD one weirdly having fatter ends and a slimmer middle, but it's not just down to how it's wound and the thickness of the wire it's also down to how the spring is tempered.

In all fairness I really don't think you can go far wrong with most of these springs, go for the cheaper Weitec ones if you really don't expect to carry weight, but the difference in price between the other is minimal and they are all TUV approved (hence modest drop)
I will say the one I measured that didn't match the TUV cert (That I noticed anyway) was the KW, so, I presume subject to change applies here, or engineering tolerances..

Also worth noting is that I have measured the spring including is surface protection, obviously once this has been stripped away the spring will be much narrower.

Simon.



Replies:
Posted By: Baxter
Date Posted: 22 Nov 07 at 23:04

Updated, now I'm not as drunk as I was last time!



Posted By: jets
Date Posted: 30 Nov 07 at 22:53
Another great writeup, well done. Although I won't be lowering my van I found it interesting. Thanks for the time & work you have put into it. Keep em coming. Once again you don't see anything as good as this on the "other' forum" & this ones FREE.


Posted By: Baxter
Date Posted: 30 Nov 07 at 23:04

Cheers.

If it has any bearing on anyone reading this I can supply....

  • KW
  • Weitec
  • H&R
  • Eibach
  • Bilstein

I have most on the shelf, the rest can be ordered and be with me in a week from Germany.
As always I am willing to price match if not beat any legitimate traders.
I'm personally running Bilstein B6's and Jamex springs although the more I load my van the more I realise cheap springs are just that.
H&R are ordered and will be with me soon.

Anyone for some little used jamex -55's?  cheap....

 



Posted By: jane/rob&dennis
Date Posted: 05 Dec 07 at 09:02

Originally posted by jets jets wrote:

Another great writeup, well done. Although I won't be lowering my van I found it interesting. Thanks for the time & work you have put into it. Keep em coming. Once again you don't see anything as good as this on the "other' forum" & this ones FREE.

Oh I don't know there's recently been posted a step by step guide with pictures to fitting the KW kit to a T4  on another pay per view site.  Which I do believe was influence by this thread here.

An excellent description Simon, drunk or not and the exploded diagrams really helped when it came to changing the front shock. Thanks.



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Jane/Rob&Dennis


Posted By: Baxter
Date Posted: 05 Dec 07 at 19:46

Feel free to re-post your work here, of if you like it can be made into a permanent tech page and added to the T4 section of the main site if you so wish. Saves it getting lost in the forum ether.

 



Posted By: Discodave
Date Posted: 05 Jan 08 at 16:54
i would like to add to the list of tools you will need!

you might need an acytelene torch! i did! one of the rear shock bushes was seized to the mouting bolt!   set fire to it and all was well!


Posted By: Smilo
Date Posted: 09 Mar 08 at 22:14

Our 2003 lhd Westy was leaning to the left, i.e. the same side as 16 stone me (yeah, don't stop smoking), and the fitted furniture. And the fuel tank?? And the water tank?? It had been leaning for 6 months or more, but not, I think, for the previous 12mths of our ownership. 

I had JK "heavy duty"  springs and Boge shocks fitted onto the back which made the handling much less rolly, so I was pleased. But the lean, easily enough for me to notice, was still there, no difference at all.

Last week a local garage wound the front nearside up and that feels better and has reduced the van's slight, but long term pull to the left. Tyre wear seems to be even.

Now I've run out of ideas and so have two local garages. I've tried ignoring the lean, but that doesn't work for me. Is there anywhere else to make adjustments?



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http://sumdoood.blogspot.com/


Posted By: BANANABUS
Date Posted: 12 Apr 08 at 21:09
Originally posted by Smilo Smilo wrote:

Our 2003 lhd Westy was leaning to the left, i.e. the same side as 16 stone me (yeah, don't stop smoking), and the fitted furniture. And the fuel tank?? And the water tank?? It had been leaning for 6 months or more, but not, I think, for the previous 12mths of our ownership. 

I had JK "heavy duty"  springs and Boge shocks fitted onto the back which made the handling much less rolly, so I was pleased. But the lean, easily enough for me to notice, was still there, no difference at all.

Last week a local garage wound the front nearside up and that feels better and has reduced the van's slight, but long term pull to the left. Tyre wear seems to be even.

Now I've run out of ideas and so have two local garages. I've tried ignoring the lean, but that doesn't work for me. Is there anywhere else to make adjustments?

 

you might wanna have a look here ! At mr Baxters new toys!

http://www.brick-yard.co.uk/forum/forum_posts.asp?TID=22930&KW=westy+lean - http://www.brick-yard.co.uk/forum/forum_posts.asp?TID=22930& amp;KW=westy+lean



Posted By: Smilo
Date Posted: 12 Apr 08 at 23:06
Good shout.

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http://sumdoood.blogspot.com/


Posted By: majbishup
Date Posted: 14 Jul 08 at 00:07
Nice 1 baxter. I got 1 for u what happens to the brake bias when i get round to fitting adjustable air bags and more to the point is it even poss with torshion bar on front. Maj.


Posted By: Superstyle Dan
Date Posted: 21 Jul 08 at 11:34
Just to clarify chaps on the tools front for lowering the torsion bar, are you using a deep set socket or a 27mm spanner?

Thanks


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Hit me up for T4 Camper Conversions as well as Sport seats exclusivly for a T4


Posted By: DeeDub
Date Posted: 21 Jul 08 at 12:26

spanner would be best



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Dave


Posted By: Baxter
Date Posted: 21 Jul 08 at 20:54
The VW tool is a very deep 27mm socket.
Spanner would take ages, socket on an air gun takes seconds, so long as the nut isn't siezed.


Posted By: Superstyle Dan
Date Posted: 21 Jul 08 at 21:31
Nice one fella's thanks for the hedz up.

Got a spanner to do the job, was just wondering if their was some special fangled way of doin it that I might have missed.

Left side was a doddle right side had to construct some kind of hybrid, tourqe wrench meets 27 mmm socket meets jammed in spanner to get leverage took two of us to get it wound down even with it soaked in plus gas, one pushin one side ad one pullin the other, a little heath robinson i admit but it worked in the end.

Thanks

Dan


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Hit me up for T4 Camper Conversions as well as Sport seats exclusivly for a T4


Posted By: Baxter
Date Posted: 21 Jul 08 at 21:53
Thems the ones when the upper mount becomes dislodged!
Lucky boys if it came loose for you.


Posted By: majbishup
Date Posted: 02 Sep 08 at 15:21
baxter, i know you can get air bags for the rear but i want to be able to raise and lower the complete van. 1st is it possible with a torsion bar and if it is do you know of anything or anyone who sells such a unit be it air or oil. cheers maj.


Posted By: ole carter
Date Posted: 03 Sep 08 at 09:33
Just a heads up for Mr Baxter....... for the supply and fit of the billy b6's,h&r springs and roll bar..
 
top job,top bloke......(not much tea makin though..LOLLOLLOL.)
 
completely transformed the van....tickety boo
 
Cheers Andy 


Posted By: Lint
Date Posted: 28 Nov 08 at 14:57
I'm about to buy that deep socket from Hazet £26+VatCryCry


Posted By: brenton
Date Posted: 05 Dec 08 at 09:46

ive adjusted the fronts about 5 times with just a spanner, you should be able to get it save the money for beer lol

cheers brenton



Posted By: transporter boy
Date Posted: 07 Dec 08 at 16:14
Hi guys,
 
My van failed its mot last week Cry on the coil springs so that gave me the kick up the arse to get it lowered Smile  went on ebay and found some jamex springs for a great price and delivered within 2 days, think I may hang them from the rear view mirror as they look to nice to hide under the van LOL  anyway after now getting over a bad cold I dicided to make a start on the torsion bars this morning, jacked up the van stuck it on axle stands took off the wheel and engine cover and after about 10 min looking for the adjuster bolt I gave inConfused  are some vans different??? cos I couldnt find it, my van is a 2000 tdi 2.5 swb 88bhp
 
cheers,
Andy.


Posted By: jets
Date Posted: 08 Dec 08 at 00:27
Take a look further back, just behind the fuel tank.


Posted By: transporter boy
Date Posted: 08 Dec 08 at 08:45
Cheers Jets,
I had a look last night and found them, I was looking in front of the fuel tank, going to have a go at them now.


Posted By: xajayx
Date Posted: 10 Dec 08 at 19:52
how low can the font go? 60mm ???


Posted By: james 1978
Date Posted: 11 Feb 09 at 15:01
my mate has a tube box spanner thingy
got it from an iveco van
was for changing wheels
is perfect

wd 40, wire brush, then coat in copper slip, threads eaasy then Wink

i got some cheap springs on the bay too
they say 80 on them, and erm, rear is on the floor
lookc cool, but need some new shorter shocks now, as the originals are bottoming out Confused


Posted By: S.OSHEA
Date Posted: 17 Feb 09 at 10:14
HI
is their any differance in lowering a
syncro? are all spring kits the same? thanks
guy,s
steve.


Posted By: Rixy
Date Posted: 24 Mar 09 at 18:45
some1 told me that bmw e36 rear springs are a lowering spring for the t4? is this correct?? Im guessing spring rate etc will be diff, but will they do the job on the cheap  for now??

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www.ec-dc.co.uk


Posted By: Steve B
Date Posted: 24 Mar 09 at 19:13
Originally posted by Rixy Rixy wrote:

some1 told me that bmw e36 rear springs are a lowering spring for the t4? is this correct?? Im guessing spring rate etc will be diff, but will they do the job on the cheap  for now??
 
Doing the job on the cheap usually means un-safe as well.
 
Why fit BMW car springs when the proper things aren't expensive? Confused
 
http://www.brick-yard.co.uk/forum/t4-stuff-for-sale_topic35988.html - T4 AVO -50mm springs for 55 quid.


Posted By: paul_c
Date Posted: 31 Mar 09 at 23:00
i must have been lucky with mine, 27mm open ended and a slight bit of gurning and down came the torsion nuts, nice and easy. found the rears a piece of the preverbial aswell, apart from the top bolt on the drivers side strut being siezed so i removed the bottom mount bolt instead. easy! i fitted 60mm springs but to be honest, they didnt lower it as much as i had hoped, i've since fitted -15mm lowering plates aswell and this made all the difference.
as an aside, bear in mind if your's is an AA van like mine, rip out the air bags whilst the rear is apart, they're probably knackered and will affect the damper travel on a lowered van


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"YOU CAN TEACH A MONKEY TO RIDE A BICYCLE, BUT YOU CAN'T TEACH HIM TO FIX IT....."


Posted By: feelingfunky
Date Posted: 20 Apr 09 at 11:13
Refering to the exploded diagram of the front suspension set up...

Has any one ever found that on jacking up the front end, the Torsion bar (No1) falls out of the Rubber mounting saddle (No3).
They both sit tight up in the saddle on my van, but on my mates van one side falls out while the other sits tight!
Could this explain the random knocking noise we are trying to get to the bottom of? Could it be just a worn rubber mounting saddle or does it mean the torsion bar is bent/ twisted because we can't seem to find any other explanation?

Has anyone seen this before? any help greatly apprieciated!


Posted By: feelingfunky
Date Posted: 22 Apr 09 at 08:26
HELP!?! Bump...


Posted By: kniterider
Date Posted: 10 Jun 09 at 20:00
got some jamex springs delivered today Confused , have soaked all bits i need to adjust in wd40 and am gonna have an attempt at the weekend... and if its bouncy like my old t4 then ill be buyin some shorter shocks!!

great write up, didnt realise the front was so easy till i read this!!


Posted By: Baxter
Date Posted: 26 Jul 09 at 19:30
Originally posted by feelingfunky feelingfunky wrote:

Refering to the exploded diagram of the front suspension set up...

Has any one ever found that on jacking up the front end, the Torsion bar (No1) falls out of the Rubber mounting saddle (No3).
They both sit tight up in the saddle on my van, but on my mates van one side falls out while the other sits tight!
Could this explain the random knocking noise we are trying to get to the bottom of? Could it be just a worn rubber mounting saddle or does it mean the torsion bar is bent/ twisted because we can't seem to find any other explanation?

Has anyone seen this before? any help greatly apprieciated!
If you lower them too mcuh you take the pre-load away from the torsion bar, and what you describe happens, the rubber saddle can become dislodged.
Always leave some preload on the springs.


Posted By: jimbo
Date Posted: 27 Jul 09 at 23:24
Hey Kniterider - hows the rest of the van going??

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When there's always biscuits in the barrell, where's the fun in biscuits??


Posted By: Crusti Croc
Date Posted: 29 Jul 09 at 20:12
I got a seized torsion bar nut - tried everything to shift it (the other one is virtually finger tight). I would get a gas axe to it but I need to drop the underfloor CAK tank first, which is held up with stainless bolts (one sheared). So I've opened up a whole can of worms, just to lower the van. How long should it take - an hour or a week?



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Been here, there and everywhere


Posted By: anden
Date Posted: 28 Sep 09 at 19:54
get some more mechanical advantage, adjustable spanner tucked in a scaffolding pole released mine a tread, 4 ft of MA did the trick! 3 days of wd40 soak too and squeeky clean threads before i tried to move it, 2-3 complete roations and down onto the clean thread and it was finger loose almost.


Posted By: Smilo
Date Posted: 28 Sep 09 at 20:17
A coupla months ago I went to Brickwerks where Simon fitted a 20mm shim. By good fortune, I suppose, no more adjustment was needed and the bloody "Westy Lean" has completely disappeared. What a relief - it was very annoying (to slide off the driver's seat every time I went too fast around a rh corner).

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http://sumdoood.blogspot.com/


Posted By: Crusti Croc
Date Posted: 30 Sep 09 at 20:54
Originally posted by anden anden wrote:

get some more mechanical advantage, adjustable spanner tucked in a scaffolding pole released mine a tread, 4 ft of MA did the trick! 3 days of wd40 soak too and squeeky clean threads before i tried to move it, 2-3 complete roations and down onto the clean thread and it was finger loose almost.


How long does the scaffold pole have to be - I was standing the other side of the van - all it did was to round off my specially bought socket. With the springs fitted, I twatted my towbar sockets on a speed hump - so I've given up on lowering and raised the rear instead for a Syncro look (all I need is the knobbly tyres).

Keeping the springs for a new project...


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Been here, there and everywhere


Posted By: 7/11=12
Date Posted: 04 Oct 09 at 08:04
Originally posted by Crusti Croc Crusti Croc wrote:

Originally posted by anden anden wrote:

get some more mechanical advantage, adjustable spanner tucked in a scaffolding pole released mine a tread, 4 ft of MA did the trick! 3 days of wd40 soak too and squeeky clean threads before i tried to move it, 2-3 complete roations and down onto the clean thread and it was finger loose almost.


How long does the scaffold pole have to be - I was standing the other side of the van - all it did was to round off my specially bought socket. With the springs fitted, I twatted my towbar sockets on a speed hump - so I've given up on lowering and raised the rear instead for a Syncro look (all I need is the knobbly tyres).

Keeping the springs for a new project...
hi mate my advice is to use single x type sockets/spanners the ones that look like a 50p shape,,then it fits around the nut/bolt perfectly & keep spraying the said nut/bolt/tread with penertrating fluid over a few days before having a go at it,,a decent sized braker bar should help tooThumbs Up


Posted By: Crusti Croc
Date Posted: 04 Oct 09 at 18:40
Originally posted by 7/11=12 7/11=12 wrote:

Originally posted by Crusti Croc Crusti Croc wrote:

Originally posted by anden anden wrote:

get some more mechanical advantage, adjustable spanner tucked in a scaffolding pole released mine a tread, 4 ft of MA did the trick! 3 days of wd40 soak too and squeeky clean threads before i tried to move it, 2-3 complete roations and down onto the clean thread and it was finger loose almost.


How long does the scaffold pole have to be - I was standing the other side of the van - all it did was to round off my specially bought socket. With the springs fitted, I twatted my towbar sockets on a speed hump - so I've given up on lowering and raised the rear instead for a Syncro look (all I need is the knobbly tyres).

Keeping the springs for a new project...
hi mate my advice is to use single x type sockets/spanners the ones that look like a 50p shape,,then it fits around the nut/bolt perfectly & keep spraying the said nut/bolt/tread with penertrating fluid over a few days before having a go at it,,a decent sized braker bar should help tooThumbs Up


Yeah this was over three Saturdays on a four poster at my local garage. Even they got scared. If it wasn't for the water tank we would have split the old nut. Range Rover wheel nuts are 27mm, by the way, but the sockets aren't deep enough to reach my nuts.


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Been here, there and everywhere


Posted By: anden
Date Posted: 07 Oct 09 at 10:21
the pole was around 3ft long, its only an offcut from a miniramp project!! comes in handy all the time!
I used a big adjustable spanner as it was the only wasy i could reach nicely across the flats, the 27mm deep socket i have isnt hex shaped it has multi form and would be useless for applying alot of torque

Question i have is when changing the front shocks do i have to remove the plate from the top of the shock from below (shown in schematic) or can i reach the shock top bolt from inside the engine bay (under battery and airbox?)


Posted By: mariodedubber
Date Posted: 26 Oct 09 at 12:50
Si, I have lowered my T4 and have experienced problems with one of the adjusting bolts being a
a B*stard to move and in the end it moved but I think the bolt has "necked" so do you stock spare adjusting bolts?
 
Mar...Shocked


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Life's too short to buy bad dub's!


Posted By: Baxter
Date Posted: 26 Oct 09 at 21:56
Just buy them from VW.
Something I may stock in the future.


Posted By: Tee4
Date Posted: 27 Oct 09 at 08:54
Originally posted by anden anden wrote:

the pole was around 3ft long, its only an offcut from a miniramp project!! comes in handy all the time!
I used a big adjustable spanner as it was the only wasy i could reach nicely across the flats, the 27mm deep socket i have isnt hex shaped it has multi form and would be useless for applying alot of torque

Question i have is when changing the front shocks do i have to remove the plate from the top of the shock from below (shown in schematic) or can i reach the shock top bolt from inside the engine bay (under battery and airbox?)
 
I took the whole shock out when I did mine.


Posted By: alibaba
Date Posted: 06 Jan 10 at 01:52
Hi,

I bought my T4 (syncro) off a guy that said he had raised the ride height, and I can believe it since they are about 5-6 inches between the arch and wheel ! What's confusing is that it has eibach shox on the rear, so I don't understand how it can be so high, unless Eibach make springs for raising as well as lowering ?
Does anyone have any experience of lowering a syncro and is it any different from a 2WD T4 ?


Posted By: 7/11=12
Date Posted: 06 Jan 10 at 07:28
Originally posted by alibaba alibaba wrote:

Hi,

I bought my T4 (syncro) off a guy that said he had raised the ride height, and I can believe it since they are about 5-6 inches between the arch and wheel ! What's confusing is that it has eibach shox on the rear, so I don't understand how it can be so high, unless Eibach make springs for raising as well as lowering ?
Does anyone have any experience of lowering a syncro and is it any different from a 2WD T4 ?
maybe eibach do a off road spring,,Ive got the sports ones on mine & what you get in the kit is 2 springs & 2 rubber upper plates that are very good quality & are approx 10mm thick,,,maybe some how he as raised it by adding some soft of metal work where the rubber sections go dont know mate with out seeing it


Posted By: alibaba
Date Posted: 06 Jan 10 at 12:48
Hi 7/11=12,

Thx for the suggestion, the idea of shims hadn't occurred to me.
Eibach say they only make one model for the T4, so will get under it again, but will take a photo to show what I mean about it being high, when it stops snowing down here.


Posted By: 7/11=12
Date Posted: 06 Jan 10 at 16:45
Originally posted by alibaba alibaba wrote:

Hi 7/11=12,

Thx for the suggestion, the idea of shims hadn't occurred to me.
Eibach say they only make one model for the T4, so will get under it again, but will take a photo to show what I mean about it being high, when it stops snowing down here.
pic or two would be good
 
the springs you have on then mate are the same as mine,there progressive sports springs & there brilliant,,its snowing up here too mate & i love it lol


Posted By: alibaba
Date Posted: 06 Jan 10 at 21:24
Hmm not so sure anymore as I found some info that the seller posted on the net referring to having installed a Seikel kit. Must be going blind in my old age ..


Posted By: Ninja Chris
Date Posted: 17 Feb 10 at 16:28
Hi, I'm trying to drop my 1.9TD. I've been soaking the adjuster nuts in WD40 every day since the weekend and they still won't move. Would heating them with a torch do any good? I'm a bit nervous about being right next to the fuel tank but I can't think of anything else to try. When I tried using straight forward man-strength in conjunction with a big spanner to turn them the top mount popped out and it took me nearly an hour to get it back in!


Posted By: pimpdriver
Date Posted: 24 May 10 at 22:15
Originally posted by alibaba alibaba wrote:

Hmm not so sure anymore as I found some info that the seller posted on the net referring to having installed a Seikel kit. Must be going blind in my old age ..

Not a green Caravelle 2.5 petrol is it?


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its gert lush.........


Posted By: alibaba
Date Posted: 24 May 10 at 22:25
Indeed it was, do you have some info to share ?


Posted By: pimpdriver
Date Posted: 24 May 10 at 22:33
2.5 petrol, owned by my mate. syncro, nice recaro seat I wanted to buy!

Good for towing, lovely 5 pot sound.


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its gert lush.........


Posted By: kimbobill
Date Posted: 03 Jun 10 at 09:23
When measuring the distance from centres to wheel arch is that done unladen?

Just dropped mine -40mm  and ordered a 27mm deep socket and it didn't reach so I think you need a fu*king deep socket. I used a spanner with a scaffold pole one was free enough the other I just worked it a little each way like cutting a thread. 
The good thing about the spanner is you can see whether the bolt is moving, at least you'll know if you're going to get crushed or not.

An air gun works a treat on the the rear dampers it made the whole thing so much easier.


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T4 Caravelle converting to a day van and still looking for an LT


Posted By: mrfish
Date Posted: 30 Jun 10 at 11:19
Hi All
 
I am totally new to T4, but was looking at the diagram on the first page and wondering if anyone has thought about replacing the adjusting bolt of the front torsion bar with an adjustable airbag. Therefore ,with rear airbags it would give you height adjustable suspension for clearing speed humps etc, could it be done or is it unrealistic ?
 


Posted By: Badger76
Date Posted: 12 Jul 10 at 21:19
Just to say thanks for this did it today a couple of small problems but all done great guide!Clap


Posted By: Or_GazM
Date Posted: 27 Oct 10 at 14:36
I just had pointed out, by my MOT equivalent tester, that according to the TUV papers that come with the KW -40 kit, there has to be a MINIMUM 400mm between wheel centre and arch at the front!
(Strangely, no mention for the back...."cos it's controlled by the springs", he said)
Gonna have to wind mine up now to get it passed the Kontroll (but it will go back down after...not forking out another 200+ quid getting the geometry done...AGAIN! )
 
Update...H&R specify 390mm MINIMUM wheel centre to arch......
 
Seen quite a few posts about people worrying about the safety of R'n'R beds, but not many comments about how safe it is to lower a van more than TUV approve.
Lower the back 60mm...but only allowed to lower the front 20mm???....Gonna look strange that.


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Norwegian Troll....Big enough, Fat enough and Old enough to take any comments


Posted By: cady
Date Posted: 12 Aug 11 at 00:56
yaay at last I got my rear springs fitted on my lwb panel van exactly 40mm drop as suggested (empty) .
although was a bit disappointed to be throwing out tapered wire coils and putting in straight wire coils but i spose you get what you pay for (ToysRus own brand) but the ride does feel much better, firmer less roll and i don't get that sort of after bounce thing anymore.
just waiting for the tarmac to dry to get underneath and drop the front.
So thanks for all the advice.. nice.


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had to change my paypal account so my wife cant see how much im spending on my van although the postman does give it away


Posted By: cady
Date Posted: 16 Aug 11 at 00:00
FRont end sorted, only took me 20 mins. squirt of GT85 last week and the nuts slipped down a treat, like the man said I wound down 16mm on the thread and it gave me perfect 40mm drop to match the back. 
didn't bother marking threads just use a tape measure.
surprised how much better it looks with only a modest drop.... It looks proper deep..... and my new wheels are on there way, might be time to post a picture of the green machine..

So thanks again guys for all the helpful advice, couldn't have done it without you.Clap

the only thing I was a bit dubious about was the correct place to put the trolley jack and axle stands. All the gear and no idea, total novice to actual real mechanics... 



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had to change my paypal account so my wife cant see how much im spending on my van although the postman does give it away


Posted By: illzlee
Date Posted: 13 Nov 11 at 14:34
finally got round to lowering the front of my van today, 3 months after fitting the rear springs!
dropped it 50mm at the front and i think it can go lower. been soaking the nuts in plusgas for 3 months on and off (its a 1991 model, the nuts havent moved for a while!)- drivers side easy to undo by hand, passenger needed the 3ft of scaffold tube on the adjustable spanner.
use a vernier guage on the exposed thread to measure how far you are lowering.
 
good guide, made the job easy.


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slowly becoming a collector of non-rare, non-special and non-collectable VW's!


Posted By: bobiola
Date Posted: 22 Aug 12 at 15:36
just lowerd mine front and back  t4 1.9 tdi 800 swb  that is back  np  front  a pain  nsf  bracket came out of  hole  then had the lov job of relocating it  still dune now  next job  oil light permanently on  presure ok level ok  wires on altenator  ok  were next  no bonnet  button  any advice 


Posted By: Steve B
Date Posted: 22 Aug 12 at 15:38
Originally posted by bobiola bobiola wrote:

  any advice 


Yes please stop typing with an old dildo!

Try the T4 Tech section for T4 Tech questions.


Posted By: Or_GazM
Date Posted: 22 Aug 12 at 15:56
Originally posted by Steve B Steve B wrote:

Originally posted by bobiola bobiola wrote:

  any advice 


Yes please stop typing with an old dildo!

Try the T4 Tech section for T4 Tech questions.
 
Exactly what he said!
IF you want a reply that makes sense, at least type in a way that people don't need a Webster's dictionary to interpret the question!!!!
 
Also, there is a reason why the forum is split into sections........


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Norwegian Troll....Big enough, Fat enough and Old enough to take any comments


Posted By: bobiola
Date Posted: 22 Aug 12 at 15:58
Get. Fuckt. Ok nob


Posted By: gusbang
Date Posted: 22 Aug 12 at 17:43
Originally posted by bobiola bobiola wrote:

Get. Fuckt. Ok nob


Quote of the day

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T3 Doka 2.1MV


Posted By: solarboy
Date Posted: 22 Aug 12 at 21:19
Get.

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T4 2.5TDI builder wagon remapped to 117BHP.
also
T4 1.9TDI AHU Kombi

Bristol VRT double decker conversion.Donkey cart.


Posted By: FinM
Date Posted: 06 Nov 12 at 00:32
So the sockets 27mm but also needs to be how deep? I wanna tackle this, my van needs to come down another few mil, but dont wanna go to the effort and find out I aint got the right tools. Scuse me for asking simpletoin questions but I am a little smashed …….. wheres the shed key? Hic! Confused

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Posted By: FinM
Date Posted: 06 Nov 12 at 00:37
Originally posted by bobiola bobiola wrote:

Get. Fuckt. Ok nob

Wow!! Your a friendly clunge eh?
Its actually spelled fucked and knob and your punctuation is atrocious!! Cock! LOL


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Posted By: the machinist
Date Posted: 24 Apr 13 at 15:51
Hi,
After reading through the previous posts im getting worried about my nuts.
LOL



Posted By: kap k
Date Posted: 24 Apr 13 at 19:25
Thanks Simon for the easy to follow guide. Lowered ours last week. Was a doddle as soaked threads on and off for a mth. Used vogtland springs and the ride is better but not too harsh. Used a spanner as didn't want to buy a socket(I'm too tight).

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I cant spell for shit..wont use spell checker or predictived text...


Posted By: the machinist
Date Posted: 17 May 13 at 17:59
Hi all,
I lowered my van today by 55mm after researching and assembling he right tools.
I am by no means mechanically minded and completed the task in about 80 mins.
So so easy once you have done the ground work.
I was quoted £150 labour for that task!
Cheers
Simon


Posted By: Desp Dan
Date Posted: 18 May 13 at 10:37
Fair Enough but a "quote" will take account of possibly seized torsion bar nuts which can be a reet bugger, But well done £££ saved 👍

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Pie n' Bacon Meister
Porsche & Classic Car Nut


Posted By: the machinist
Date Posted: 18 May 13 at 19:43
Hi
The nuts were so easy to shift as the under side is pretty good as only 40k on the clock.



Posted By: ghost123uk
Date Posted: 22 Feb 18 at 13:04
I'm going the opposite way, I want to get my (new to me) lowered van back to standard ride height.

Question, what length are OE standard springs ?


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John - in Malpas, S. Cheshire



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