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Westy interior light/radio mod.

Printed From: The Brick-yard
Category: T3 Section
Forum Name: T3 Westfalia forum
Forum Description: Forum to discuss VW T3 Westfalia models. If it's shit, it goes!
URL: http://www.brick-yard.co.uk/forum/forum_posts.asp?TID=11446
Printed Date: 20 Apr 24 at 05:14
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Topic: Westy interior light/radio mod.
Posted By: Baxter
Subject: Westy interior light/radio mod.
Date Posted: 07 Feb 07 at 20:04

Following on from another thread (see below) here is a useful upgrade for owners of later Westfalia T3's with the blade type fuse box.

Thing is, your Westy has 2 batteries, the second battery handles the heater (where fitted) and the fridge and nothing else.
To me it seems a bit daft to have this spare battery and yet run your interior lights, radio and cigarrette lighter (Or aux. power socket) from your main "car" battery, running the risk of flattening the main battery when camped up and not plugged into the mains.

The modification outlined below will remedy this oversight and allow you to run your interior lights, radio and fag lighter from the auxilliary battery, how it should have been.

Originally posted by Joker_Club

Im just doing some wiring mods in me Westy, and remembered a conversation with Mr Baxter at his garage and he said the other day that he was going to rewire his Atlantic interior lites, radio etc so they work from the leisure battery. 

I have just done said mod, heres how.

No. 3 fuse in the main fuse box works the lot.
the RED multiplug on the rear of the fusebox, terminal no. 12 has 2 thin red wires coming out, these are the feeds.
I just cut them off at the plug, connected some 17AMP cable and ran a feed from the leisure batts through a 15amp fuse, then removed no. 3 fuse from the `box for good measure.
Now all the interior fluros in the rear, radio, front interior light and fag lighter socket can be used without fear of flattening the main starter battery.

 




Replies:
Posted By: Twiggy
Date Posted: 08 Feb 07 at 19:34

Is this something you would do for a customer

 if required? if so how much if on the back of a 45mm lowering job

Actually got a list of bits I wont done so will pm you.

Twiggy

 



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THE OLDER I GET THE FASTER I WAS


Posted By: Baxter
Date Posted: 08 Feb 07 at 19:45

Could do, not a problem, also have auxilliary fuse boxes in stock.



Posted By: Twiggy
Date Posted: 08 Feb 07 at 19:54
Originally posted by Baxter Baxter wrote:

Could do, not a problem, also have auxilliary fuse boxes in stock.

Put one aside I will draft a list of bits I would like done and send over.

Twiggy  



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THE OLDER I GET THE FASTER I WAS


Posted By: adrianlle
Date Posted: 11 Mar 07 at 21:53
I'm a renegade from the lT forum- with a Westy Florida. Given this mod, would I be right in thinking ithat this is a Westy thing and interior lights etc on my van might also run off main battery and not leisure batteries?


Posted By: Baxter
Date Posted: 11 Mar 07 at 22:20
No idea.


Posted By: Joker_Club
Date Posted: 12 Mar 07 at 01:10
Take a look at the fuse box where the wiring runs to (the wiring mentioned in the above post), try pulling the fuse that runs this circuit and see if the interior lights, radio etc stop working.

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Sunny Lancs


Posted By: lhdwesty
Date Posted: 13 Mar 07 at 22:58

Originally posted by adrianlle adrianlle wrote:

I'm a renegade from the lT forum- with a Westy Florida. Given this mod, would I be right in thinking ithat this is a Westy thing and interior lights etc on my van might also run off main battery and not leisure batteries?

Disconnect your main battery and see if the lights and fridge workl

Rob.



Posted By: Joker_Club
Date Posted: 14 Mar 07 at 07:37

Fridge only works when the engine is running, or it would flatten the batt in super-quick time  Has a relay to control it

Good easy try for the interior lights and radio though



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Sunny Lancs


Posted By: dublicious
Date Posted: 22 May 07 at 22:42
I worked out with your help by removing fuse 3 that I need to do this mod.  I just need to clarify the process so bear with me :)


1.  Snip off red wires from no.12 at rear
2.  Run 17amp cable from the leisure battery (which currently I dont know where it is and what route to take)  to no.12 at rear.
3. Fit no.12 with a 15 amp fuse
4. Remove no.3 fuse for safe measure

Do you need to disconnect battery when doing this and what materials and tools are needed e.g. connectors etc?  Not sure where to buy the materials either??

As you can tell it is the first time for me doing somik like this, so bear with me please ;)

Take care,

J


Posted By: Joker_Club
Date Posted: 22 May 07 at 23:58

Always disconnect the negative lead before messing with the juice.

You seem to have got a bit muddled there mate, the pin no.12 red wires are in the back of the RED PLUG on the back of the fusebox (NOT no.12 fuse) they are easy to spot as they are red and paired together into the plug terminal. Cut these at the plug, then connect to the 17A cable with either an inline crimp or solder the joint and insulate it, make sure you put an in-line fuse holder or similar between the leisure battery and the joint (nearest the battery is best). Leisure batt goes under the front seats usually.

IF IN DOUBT, GET SOMEONE TO DO IT who knows what they`re doing, it`s only 12V but can still cause a wiring fire !



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Sunny Lancs


Posted By: CaliforniaDream
Date Posted: 23 May 07 at 23:36

89 westy

I'm not sure why you should cut these wires when you can just pull this terminal block apart (two spade block 5inches from the fuse box) push back the male spade connectors retaining prong to pull out the spade from the block and then plug the male spade connection onto the end of your new cable with a female fitted (reconnect the block) Nothing is cut so you retain the original connector, just needs a few turns of insulating tape and done!

All I need to do now is to change the radio switched live, to a permenant one, so I can use the radio/CD without ignition.

Martin

 



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On wings like angels whispers sweet

my heart it feels a broken beat

Touched soul and hurt lay wounded deep

Brown eyes are lost afar now sleep xxHayleyxx





Posted By: Tee3
Date Posted: 25 May 07 at 10:56
that block connector is only for the lights though.
Not the radio or accessory sockets.

I know this cos I did mine yesterday

I took some photos of which wires you need to disconnect, i'll post em later.




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YOU CANT EDUCATE GAMMON

http://www.tee3.co.uk/" rel="nofollow - http://www.tee3.co.uk/


Posted By: dublicious
Date Posted: 25 May 07 at 19:04
cheers guys ;)  I wont be doing it tomorrow,  going out and chilling, though a possibilty on Sunday depending if motorspares sells the required bits and bobs.


Would love to see the pics,  will help a numpty like me bit stylee :)


Posted By: Baxter
Date Posted: 13 Jun 07 at 20:35

I just did mine, super simple, I also took piccies but you can't really f**k it up, it's that simple.

Basically a red wire goes up the left hand door pillar and feeds the front interior light(s) and then goes on to feed the rear fluro's.

Easiest way to find the wire is to drop the fuse box down, and look for the single red wire that runs off in the direction of the pillar, in it is a connector, just unplug it and your lights should now stop working.

leave it unplugged and connect in your new wire from the new fuse box you just fitted to run your auxilliaries from. Tape the old supply wire up so it doesn catch owt.

 



Posted By: dublicious
Date Posted: 13 Jun 07 at 20:52

go on,  you know you want to post pics :)

I haven't done mine yet,  been so busy at work :(  Need to have a think and determine what to go and buy before I start.

 



Posted By: Baxter
Date Posted: 13 Jun 07 at 20:58


Posted By: dublicious
Date Posted: 15 Jun 07 at 16:52

cheers dude, hopefully in the next few weekends I will get mine done.  Just need to get some studying done ASAP for some exams first :(



Posted By: Joker_Club
Date Posted: 16 Jun 07 at 20:42
Coulda washed yer mitts for the foto Baxter

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Sunny Lancs


Posted By: dublicious
Date Posted: 11 Aug 07 at 11:48
edit: Sorted, see next msg :)


Posted By: dublicious
Date Posted: 11 Aug 07 at 16:12
right sorted, apart from where the brown cable goes. I know it is an earth
as it is strapped to metal.

You dont need to cut cables, take connector blocks apart or anything :)

This is my method and feel free to correct me :)

1. Remove fuse no. 3
2. Run 17 amp wire with a 15 amp inline fuse from the leisure battery to
the fuse box and place a spade connector on the end of the cable.
3. With your radio on try placing the spade connector into the fuse
holder no.3. First try the bottom connector and if the radio comes on the
you are done

Simple


Posted By: Baxter
Date Posted: 11 Aug 07 at 16:29

simple, but a bit gash.

 



Posted By: dublicious
Date Posted: 11 Aug 07 at 17:48
Do u think, only difference is that you are not messing with the fuse box
wiring and can put back to standard just by putting the fuse back in :)

To be honest I couldn't get the way described in thread to work, but then
I am no mastermind :) I found it only did the lights and not the stereo.
Thinking about it all I had to do was remove the supply coming from pin
12 and replace that with the new suply from leisure, doh.

any ideas where the brown earth cable secured to the metal beside the
fusebox goes m8? bit stuck.

Appreciate your help dude

Originally posted by Baxter Baxter wrote:

simple, but a bit gash.


 



Posted By: Tee3
Date Posted: 11 Aug 07 at 20:42
id be a bit concerned about that wire plopping out to be honest...

but It would work I suppose.

And as most T3s seem to have a fuse box area that resembles a rats nest full of tapeworms... I guess one more wire aint gonna hurt




-------------

YOU CANT EDUCATE GAMMON

http://www.tee3.co.uk/" rel="nofollow - http://www.tee3.co.uk/


Posted By: dublicious
Date Posted: 11 Aug 07 at 21:00
Have a look at pictures 5, 6 and 7 then you will see what I mean about loose
wire http://web.mac.com/dublicious/iWeb/Site/Wiring.html

cheers

J


Posted By: irishkeet
Date Posted: 07 Dec 07 at 12:19
HI
My van is an 80 aircooled with the older fuses will this work ok for my fuse box?
thanks
keet


Posted By: dublicious
Date Posted: 07 Dec 07 at 18:12
not a clue my friend,  this is my first T3

Originally posted by irishkeet irishkeet wrote:

HI
My van is an 80 aircooled with the older fuses will this work ok for my fuse box?
thanks
keet


Posted By: irishkeet
Date Posted: 12 Dec 07 at 13:49
anyone know if this mod will work with the older fuse box?
thanks


Posted By: Baxter
Date Posted: 12 Dec 07 at 22:08

It will work, but I can't tell you how, you will have to find out which fuse does the accessories you want to change then unclip the wires from the back of the fusebox and plug in your new wire.

not rocking horse science, the early fuseboxes are dead simple.



Posted By: irishkeet
Date Posted: 13 Dec 07 at 10:00
many thanks Simon


Posted By: COLEY
Date Posted: 26 May 08 at 20:34
does the rewire also swap the dash clock to the aux battery ? left mine for a while and it flattened the battery.


Posted By: Joker_Club
Date Posted: 05 Jun 08 at 16:31
Not sure what the clock runs from, but my `van was parked for 6 weeks while I was outa the country and all batts where fine when I got back.

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Sunny Lancs


Posted By: chesterwesty
Date Posted: 17 Jun 08 at 00:14
Just a quick note - someone mentioned in the thread that the fridge only works with the engine running.  Infact, the 12v heating element only works with the engine runing - but the cooling fan cuts in and out whenever the temp around the heat exchanger gets above a certain level - either on gas, 12v or 240v. Normally only happpens in hot weather or if the bus is in direct sunlight and the interior temp gets up a bit.

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chesterwesty


Posted By: marc34
Date Posted: 23 Jun 08 at 18:25
anyone in the herts area fancy popping round for a cuppa and showing me how to do this mod to my fuse box cheersWink

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1991 california westie 1.9 AAZ


Posted By: MacAdiane
Date Posted: 03 Jul 08 at 15:21
Originally posted by dublicious dublicious wrote:

right sorted, apart from where the brown cable goes. I know it is an earth
as it is strapped to metal.

You dont need to cut cables, take connector blocks apart or anything :)

This is my method and feel free to correct me :)

1. Remove fuse no. 3
2. Run 17 amp wire with a 15 amp inline fuse from the leisure battery to
the fuse box and place a spade connector on the end of the cable.
3. With your radio on try placing the spade connector into the fuse
holder no.3. First try the bottom connector and if the radio comes on the
you are done

Simple




Thank you....
I have done this mod and it does work without changing the original specs.

It also was simple to remove two weeks later when I discovered that for some reason my second battery wasnt fit to start the eber any more.
I take it that only the main battery gets recharged first, and on short runs the second one never gets a "shot". No really sur though and everything works ok in the original configuration, so i'll leave that as it is.


Posted By: Rubbadub
Date Posted: 06 Jul 08 at 17:21
Right...i have the early type fuse box with the bullet fuses. A technician from Summer town  motors in Broughnton, S.Devon. has so say done a similar mod that runs all the interior lights, fridge, water pump and stereo from the Aux battery. This was about 2 years ago and all has seemed to be fine.
 
However, since i rebuilt the interior after the respray the water pump for the tape is switched by the batt. indicator switch on the front of the westy cooker...rather than the tap micro switch. The tap still has a live and switch live. i have tried tracing all the wires and finding out what is going on and it all seemed as it should do. unfortunately being a bit of a numpty i messed about with things that i dont know about and tried conecting the live feed from the tap to the water pump direct. nothing happened accept now the interior lights dont work and niether does the stereo. The water pumpo does but still only switched by the batt. indicator switch. I have checked all of the fuses in the fuse board with a continuity tester, also the two fuses in the little boxy thing behind the drivers seat, also droped the fuse board and checked for inline fuses and they were fine, also taken the seat off and looked for any fuses there that may have b;lown...all fine.
 
Please give some sugestions as i dont want to re-feed supplies to the stereo and interior lights when there is probably just a fuse blown somewhere.


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Paul, Sarah, Cleo n Erin - Bristol

85 Poptop Westy Jkr


Posted By: Joker_Club
Date Posted: 07 Jul 08 at 21:32
If it`s been modded it could be a fuse hidden anywhere Confused. The pump etc runs through a fuse in the small fusebox behind the drivers seat. Check that it`s all Ok in there, it`s prone to overheating and getting a bit cooked so check the fuse holders are all OK, if it looks crap then fit a new fusebox of  the same type.

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Sunny Lancs


Posted By: Rubbadub
Date Posted: 08 Jul 08 at 20:30
After a bit more dicking about i have discovered that they now are ignition live. This has only happened since the van has been to an auto electrician who was messing around with these circuits. So hopefully he will sort it out soon.

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Paul, Sarah, Cleo n Erin - Bristol

85 Poptop Westy Jkr


Posted By: Atlantic
Date Posted: 19 Jul 08 at 09:59
Hello
 
I'm new to this excellent forum, and found this a very useful thread.
 
I've just attemtpted to install a blaupunck radio/cd in my newly acquired 1990 Atlantic.
 
I've got the thing connected up okay. It works - but it switches off, when i switch-on the headlights! having looked behind the fuse box, there are all manner of previous lash-ups and wires hanging about. I've tidied these up as best I can, taping and insulting. But why the radio circuit is affected by the headlights I can't determine, and not sure how to.
 
I most definately think radio/interior lights etc should run from the leisure battery and would like to make this modification, thereby i hope also removing the headlight issue.
 
One question.
 
Where does the earth that runs from the radio go to? can it be that it's the earth that is somehow connected to the headlights circuit? If so, then changing the 12v supply would make no difference?
 
Thanks for any help!
 
Fi


Posted By: badger
Date Posted: 19 Jul 08 at 10:49
Couldn't tell you where the earth runs to via the wiring loom; but if you want to wire a fresh earth connection to the radio, if you look behind the fusebox, in the top left corner you'll see a terminal ring screwed to the bottom of the A post - should be some spare terminals on there, just run a wire from your radio to this earth ring. 

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1989 Westy California 1.9 AAZ


Posted By: Atlantic
Date Posted: 19 Jul 08 at 14:49
Thanks for that.
 
I'm now looking at back of fuse box. When refering to pin 12, how can i locate this?
 
ThanksConfused


Posted By: Atlantic
Date Posted: 20 Jul 08 at 18:42
I've now taken my first step in auto-elecs and have successfully made this modification.
 
Many thanks to this forum without which i wouldn't have dreamed of attempting such a thing!
 
Thanks, Fi


Posted By: Stoooooo
Date Posted: 01 Sep 08 at 18:32
Hi All
 
Just about to start this mod.....any thoughts on the best route for the wire from the leisure batt (behind drivers seat) to fuse box.  There's not really a good route up the door pillar so Im thinking under the carpet and foam underlay - is this OK?  Bit concerned it will be more subject to wear and tear.
 
Stoooooo


Posted By: dublicious
Date Posted: 01 Sep 08 at 18:50
thats where my goes,  but doesn't mean its right :)  The cable I have used is pretty well insulated and been ok since mod.


Posted By: Jon_E
Date Posted: 28 Jan 09 at 17:00
Originally posted by Stoooooo Stoooooo wrote:

any thoughts on the best route for the wire from the leisure batt (behind drivers seat) to fuse box.  There's not really a good route up the door pillar so Im thinking under the carpet and foam underlay - is this OK?  Bit concerned it will be more subject to wear and tear.
 
Stoooooo


What was the general consensus on this route?


Posted By: Joker_Club
Date Posted: 28 Jan 09 at 20:20
Ran mine under the carpet, sandwiched into the underlay with some protection over the top of it. No wear on it as it`s covered.

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Sunny Lancs


Posted By: Stoooooo
Date Posted: 29 Jan 09 at 11:53
I ran the wire under the carpet and underlay following the edge of the wheel arch then up along the edge of the seat.  I wrapped the wire in insulation tape and gaffa taped it to the floor.
 
Ive driven and lived in the van every day for the last 3 months (in Spain).  I checked the wiring today and all is well - no wear at all. 
 
Stoooooo


Posted By: badger
Date Posted: 11 Jun 09 at 19:50
Carried out this mod on a westy today, but the wiring at the rear of the fusebox was slightly different. Connected the aux battery supply to the wire from pin 12 of the red plug (only a single wire) which then connected the interior courtesy lighting, the strip lights and the radio to the aux battery, but the cig lighter socket was dead (despite working earlier). I replaced the 15a fuse into position 3 and the cig liter was then live (remember this is with the wire from pin 12 disconnected).
After a little head scratching and looking at the wiring diagram, i discovered an additional supply from pin 11 which feeds direct to the cig lighter. Once this was cut and connected to the aux batt supply, everything worked as it should.
Maybe late van's have a slightly different wiring loom??


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1989 Westy California 1.9 AAZ


Posted By: Beelzibus
Date Posted: 25 Jul 09 at 22:30
Originally posted by badger badger wrote:

Carried out this mod on a westy today, but the wiring at the rear of the fusebox was slightly different. Connected the aux battery supply to the wire from pin 12 of the red plug (only a single wire) which then connected the interior courtesy lighting, the strip lights and the radio to the aux battery, but the cig lighter socket was dead (despite working earlier). I replaced the 15a fuse into position 3 and the cig liter was then live (remember this is with the wire from pin 12 disconnected).
After a little head scratching and looking at the wiring diagram, i discovered an additional supply from pin 11 which feeds direct to the cig lighter. Once this was cut and connected to the aux batt supply, everything worked as it should.
Maybe late van's have a slightly different wiring loom??


That's strange, I came on to post something very similar, I cut the two wires that go to pin 12, connected to the aux battery, only to find the cig lighter dead, again replaced fuse 3 and it's OK again. I'll have a look at pin 11. Cheers.


Posted By: daviddd
Date Posted: 07 Nov 09 at 13:26
Excellent advice Baxter, cheers! I've just connected  the radio and cigar lighter (and interior lights) to my newly-fitted leisure battery system; no problems at all!

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'88 T3 Caravelle Surfbus Auto Cool Ice Blue
'92 Scirocco GT11 Auto Flash Red
My circumnavigation of Oz on bicycle: www.davidddinoz.blogspot.com


Posted By: simoncummins
Date Posted: 09 Nov 09 at 23:06
My radio only works with the ignition turned on is this correct, if so is there an easy way round making it work with it off. Thanks Simon C.


Posted By: Joker_Club
Date Posted: 10 Nov 09 at 08:48
Yes, pull the radio out, find the red wire that is only live with the ignition on, cut the wire, tape up the end from the ignition side of things and forget that end, then pick up a 12v live feed  from the fusebox, one that is always live no matter what the ignition is at, there will be a few spare spade terminals at one end of the f`box in a cluster, run a cable from there, through an in-line fuse holder, connect to the wire that you cut to the radio and Roberts your mothers brother Wink

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Sunny Lancs


Posted By: simoncummins
Date Posted: 11 Nov 09 at 21:36
Right gents i've done this mod and all is well except the clock on the radio is always on as there is a constant feed from lb as i have bypased the ignition so it does not have to be on to use radio. It is drawing 0.3 amps so lb wont last that long. Has anyone got away of rectifying this with out putting a switch in the radio feed wire. Thanks Simon C.


Posted By: jason k
Date Posted: 11 Nov 09 at 21:40
 unclip face plate maybe??

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Bcs shallowest surf award winner 2006
camperjam 2011 chug and tug team member
aberdare. south wales
newest member of karmann korner
no longer the only moderator to manage to ban himself





Posted By: Red Westie
Date Posted: 12 Nov 09 at 07:45
Trouble is most modern car stereo systems need the permanent live to remember station frequencies. Any constant LCD display should NOT be drawing a third of an amp...this sounds way to high. A solution could be a solar panel of sufficient output to match the small battery discharge.
Martin


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shelly


Posted By: simoncummins
Date Posted: 12 Nov 09 at 13:29
Thanks for you help gents i have taken the front off the radio and now it is drawing 0.01 amps which i guess is the memory. Just have to remember to take it off.


Posted By: Baxter
Date Posted: 12 Nov 09 at 16:33
T3's never had an ignition feed for the radio.
So, that current draw you did have, has always been there, just on the starter battery.
 
I have a 2 position switch, one for camping and one for general driving.
One position lets my headunit get switched on and off via the ignition, I leave it here all the time.
When I go camping I flick it the other way if I want the radio on, that lets me listen without the keys in. that feed is taken from liesure battery.


Posted By: Baxter
Date Posted: 13 Nov 09 at 09:15


Posted By: Baxter
Date Posted: 13 Nov 09 at 09:22
I know I'm shite at spelling too before you start.
That's why I fix cars for a living.
LOL


Posted By: MacAdiane
Date Posted: 13 Nov 09 at 09:45
Not a cunning linguist our Simon....


Posted By: robthedon
Date Posted: 26 Mar 11 at 00:11
Anyone done something similar on an early westy with ceramic fuses? Tried today but gave up when I removed all fuses and still the stereo and rear strip lights worked... maybe previous owner has done something odd with the wiring though.

Thanks

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Rob Don

Managing Director, London Campers

T: 07985 991349

E: rob@londoncampers.co.uk

W: www.londoncampers.co.uk


Posted By: martin25
Date Posted: 28 Mar 11 at 18:57
i tryed to mod my very early 79 westy this baby hasnt even got the box behind the seat!!? it seems that some german has fitted a switch in the leisure battery box that allows all lights / radio to run off leasure when required


Posted By: robthedon
Date Posted: 28 Mar 11 at 21:00
Interesting. Where does the wire from said switch run to? I'd do something similar but no idea how to locate the right wire at the dashboard fuse box!

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Rob Don

Managing Director, London Campers

T: 07985 991349

E: rob@londoncampers.co.uk

W: www.londoncampers.co.uk


Posted By: martin25
Date Posted: 29 Mar 11 at 11:28
i,le try and suss it out and put some pics up but ive got the old nest of rag worms syndrome coming out the fuse box


Posted By: robthedon
Date Posted: 29 Mar 11 at 21:59
Yeah same here that's the problem! A wire colour would be great if you could get it, presume behind fuse box the aftermarket bit meets the original wire?

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Rob Don

Managing Director, London Campers

T: 07985 991349

E: rob@londoncampers.co.uk

W: www.londoncampers.co.uk


Posted By: lloydy
Date Posted: 15 Aug 11 at 14:09
just done mine, again slightly different. 1 red wire off back of plug led to connector with 3 wires branching off, lights, radio and ciggie lighter. cut the feed to this plug and joined it up with my wire from leisure battery


Posted By: phelps69
Date Posted: 15 Mar 12 at 17:54
Hi. I have been doing the wiring mod, trabsferring radio, lights and cigarette lighter to leisure battery. Cut the 2 red wires and run a 17amp (15 amp fuse) wire to the fuse box and joined them up. Radio and lights work, cigarette lighter doesn't
 
Any ideas?


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1990 California - Masala Red
2008 S6
1996 Disco Muncha off roader


Posted By: grm2507
Date Posted: 12 Sep 16 at 10:15
Sorry to jump in on such an old post but I've been a bit behind the times in getting this mod done.

Anyway recently I did the mod to my Atlantic 1.6TD JX - connected terminals B11 (cigarette lighter) and B12 (radio and interior lights) to a fused power feed from the leisure battery.  All works fine......I thought.

However, during a recent trip abroad I had lots of problems starting the vehicle after leaving it for a couple of nights - turned over and over, clouds of smoke and eventually started (luckily).  Once it had been running and is warm it runs and starts fine.  I'm guessing (until I can do some proper tests) that there's a possible problem with the glow plug circuit.

After a minor fix to the glow plug feed connection whilst I was away (it was pretty poor), the vehicle again started OK - until yesterday!

Then I noticed that I had turned off the cut-off switch for the aux battery - as I'm apt to do when parking up for longish periods.  I presume the PO had installed this or maybe it was from new.

My question is.....is there any way the aux battery being disconnected could affect the glow plug/starting circuit (I can't see anything from the wiring diagrams I've downloaded).  It may just have been that this was switched off when I was trying to start the vehicle whilst I was away - and by switching it on to get power to the interior fixed my problem (nothing to do with the glow plug feed wiring).

The plan today is to do a controlled starting test - with the aux battery connected - to see if things have improved.  After that I'll get the multimeter out and check the glow plug circuit is operating properly.


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1987 Vanagon GL DJ 2.1 - Dove Blue Metallic
1991 Westfalia Atlantic JX 1.6TD - Alpine White

1991 Westfalia Atlantic JX 1.6TD (Pop-top) - Alpine White


Posted By: jhobson
Date Posted: 31 Jul 17 at 19:35
Originally posted by grm2507 grm2507 wrote:

Anyway recently I did the mod to my Atlantic 1.6TD JX - connected terminals  B12 (radio and interior lights) to a fused power feed from the leisure battery.... I'm guessing (until I can do some proper tests) that there's a possible problem with the glow plug circuit.
I did mod last night (all except fitting new fuse - so left disconnected at battery for now) and found glow circuit not working afterwards :( 
My guess is I dislodged something while pulling out the fuse box (mine is not as neat as the Baxter pic). It could just coincidentally have failed because _something_ usually breaks when I look at the van.  I was too annoyed to debug so gave up and drank beer.


FYI my Altantic wiring is 'one short length of red wire from B12 to another connector block' (as per couple of other posters) which then connected up a number of wires (3 or 4 I think) so I don't think the Baxter 'wire going up door post' would have connected everything back up again. Other wires may be radio, lighter, some strange socket on dash, and vanity mirror light.


Posted By: grm2507
Date Posted: 01 Aug 17 at 09:51
I eventually ruled out anything to do with the light/radio wiring modification having any effect on my starting.

Seems as though my glow plugs were knackered and I didn't help matters when I tried to start the vehicle whilst still connected via the mains hook-up (apparently this is not advised Unhappy).  The timing of the problem was just coincidental.

A new set of glow plugs and a fully charged battery and I was good to go.


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1987 Vanagon GL DJ 2.1 - Dove Blue Metallic
1991 Westfalia Atlantic JX 1.6TD - Alpine White

1991 Westfalia Atlantic JX 1.6TD (Pop-top) - Alpine White



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