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Topic ClosedLimey the Syncro 16 2.5TDi Westy. 330mm Brakes!!

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syncroandy View Drop Down
Yardie
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Direct Link To This Post Posted: 08 Nov 06 at 21:01
Mike, good to see that work in progress. Will the AFM work OK perpendicular to its normal position ?

Andy
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Direct Link To This Post Posted: 08 Nov 06 at 21:03
Hey Mike, not sure whether the bog rolls will form a good enough seal, and you want to help me with the wiring loom

Looking good though.

Van off to Baxters place on Saturday to sort the CV, a good fettle and once over to get the definitive list so the loom shortening party will have to wait a while.

Cheers, Paul
T3 Westy, T3 Syncro (the ScoobyVelle), New Beetle Cab, 2 x Polos - I have too many projects
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Direct Link To This Post Posted: 08 Nov 06 at 21:04

I,I whats gong on here then.

Have you cut into the side of the chassis and slotted a plate into there and welded it up. ?

Must admit i like the look of the engine cradle as well, should stop a lot of the vibration.

The inter cooler looks smart, is it home made ?

Nice to see something different, vision my friend. Clap

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Direct Link To This Post Posted: 08 Nov 06 at 23:19

Andy, I had a good look at the AFM and the plate has a fairly strong spring unlike the usual petrol engine'd AFMs so I think it'll be ok running vertically. It certainley doesn't open the flap from its stop just by turning it over. If its a prob, I can always change the pipework and run it the other way

Nige, yes I've welded in some 8mm thick plate with M12 nuts welded to the top of it. Should be strong enough for the grief I'm going to give it!

MG

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Direct Link To This Post Posted: 02 Dec 06 at 18:56

Ok a small update but still thinking of ways to build this thing


I've bought a load of stainless pipe for the intake pipes and the exhaust aswell as Racetech sending me a 50mm 90o silicone hose as a sample. I think I'll be buying more from them although probably in 60mm sizes.


The exhaust will be 3 inch bore all the way through and I'll be making a silencer out of an old Stainless twin DTM styleeee from my Golf GTi days . This'll mean I can keep the exhaust system inside the engine bay (although heat wrapped to keep engine bay temps down) so it doesn't get bashed offroad.


It's going to be very close on the left hand side of the engine bay as everything (inlet and exhaust) is on that side. Shame really but there isn't enough room to get any of the pipework over to the other side of the engine bay.









These are hopefully going to give me enough flex in the pipework to allow the engine/gearbox unit to move around when offroading without putting too much stress on the charge cooler or intake pipe.





Oh and this is my old silencer which will be shortened and opened up to allow a 3 inch bore pipe through the middle





MG



Edited by Ghia - 15 Nov 09 at 14:48
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Direct Link To This Post Posted: 02 Dec 06 at 19:48


Silicone hoses are from www.raceparts.co.uk and the stainless pipes are from <FONT face="Courier New" color=#0000ff>stainless_steel_sections@hotmail.com who operate on ebay.


I bought a 2 meter length of 3 inch pipe, a 1 meter length of 50mm, a 750mm length of 60mm and a 500mm length of 70mm, 3 50mm 90o bends and they brought it to my work place at a great price.


MG



Edited by Ghia - 15 Nov 09 at 14:49
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Direct Link To This Post Posted: 24 Mar 07 at 21:36

Ok it's been a while since the last update, sorry about that.


Now that I have managed to get back to it, here are some pics of the bits I've managed to get sorted over the last couple of days.


The left side of the engine bay is getting a little crowded!


Fistly there is the main inlet pipe TO the turbo which will eventually run from a snorkle into the van through the left rear vent, then into a K&N Apollo sealed filter, into the air flow meter, through the floor into the area infront of the left rear light unit and across to the Turbo.













Next is the compressor pipe FROM the turbo to the Chargecooler. I had originally planned on running the pipework down, across and up as pictured above but after looking at how to sort the exhaust, I figured there was nothing stopping me from turning the compressor housing around to make a shorter run helping with throttle response and keeping the heat away from the exhaust.





This will mean remaking the waste gate feed pipe from the compressor housing. I had to cut off the original pipe from the chargecooler and use a 90o bend in order to clear the bodywork above it.











Next was the inlet manifold pipe FROM the chargecooler TO the engine. I have yet to tig these pieces to the chargecooler and inlet manifold. There will be a 60mm 45o bend of silicone pipe inbetween once it's all done.









I have now sorted out the run of the exhaust and managed to get the bulk of it Tig'd up today although the flange had to be arc welded due to the differences of mild steel and stainless. I may yet add a silencer to it but I think I'll try running the straight through pipe with a larger cylinder over 12 inches of the main pipe with holes in it and some matting to allow 'some' of the noise to be quietened!









More work to do as soon as I can get back to my mates tig welder!


MG



Edited by Ghia - 15 Nov 09 at 14:55
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Direct Link To This Post Posted: 24 Mar 07 at 22:32

Whos been busy then, best get on with mine.LOL

Nice to see it coming together mike.Thumbs Up

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Direct Link To This Post Posted: 02 May 07 at 21:42

At last I've just had a delivery of the water pipes I've been waiting for from South Africa. These are brand new and fresh from VW.


I have bought 3 sets as I plan on 2 5 Cylinder Audi engine conversions in my vans and then I want a set for spares... NO They are not for sale! I will email the part numbers for those interested though.







I need to change the thermostat outer housing for one the same as the South African vans so the water pipe will fit. Good time to fit a new VW thermostat.





The South African vans came with an electric aux water pump which I'll be fitting. The Syncro TD comes with the same setup and I'll be fitting a turbo temperature sensor to bring it in when things get hot.


The water pump fits inbetween to the 2 pipes which are sitting behind the cooland header tank.





You can just make out the black metal pipe which bolts to the block. This is a fairly important piece as 5 pipes join onto it from the block, cooland header tank, heater matrix and aux water pump.





I'll have to heat up and bend the end of the metal pipe to clear the syncro tank.


The last bit of this kit is the bracket which both standard coolant bottles bolt to. I've only fitted one bottle for the moment as I'm going to have to re-route the power steering feed pipe to allow it to sit in it's proper place.


Here are 2 pics of 2 original South African engines to compare with.







I think I'll remove the original 2.5TDi diesel fuel filter and bracket so that the water pipes can sit comfortably without chaffing against things. I'll prob use a stock T3 Diesel filter and bracket for neatness.


MG



Edited by Ghia - 15 Nov 09 at 14:59
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Direct Link To This Post Posted: 03 May 07 at 07:18
Good work, it's always impressive to me when someone goes ahead and
does an engine conversion for themselves

Should be a beast when it's done
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Direct Link To This Post Posted: 05 May 07 at 07:56
Clap
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Direct Link To This Post Posted: 05 May 07 at 09:05

Nigel, are you doing the Coast to Coast?

MG

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Direct Link To This Post Posted: 06 May 07 at 00:27

No i'm affraid not, the van still needs the VC fitting, front diff converting, new outer boot for front prop but the good news is the AKG rear box is in the van now. Down side is i have to fit the tdi to drive it all.LOL

Still getting the 2wd ready to sell, then concentrate on the syncro.

You best pull your finger out or i will be coming past you with the diffs and gears.Tongue

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Direct Link To This Post Posted: 19 May 07 at 22:01

Update on the 16. No it won't be ready for coast to coast, not a chance in hell! Maybe the next event....


I finished tig-welding up the exhaust (what there is of it ) and tig'd up the remaining stainless section of induction pipe for the Turbo TO Chargecooler.


Then I started on the ally welding... hum this isn't as easy, in fact 3/4 of an hour later and I'd not gotten very far with the first section at all with lots more to do. I could not get my friends tig-welder to work for me welding ally. For whatever reason the arc just wouldn't centralise and was jumping around all over the place. More practice needed!


Back inside the van I got the K&N Apollo filter out with all it's associated bits and mounted it in place with riv-nuts.





Sorry about the blurred pic.







Next I figured it was time to get the loom, ECU etc out and start working out where it was going to fit. I had already tidied up the loom (hence the masking tape!) but haven't wrapped up the loom in loom tape as I haven't finished shortening or lengthening sections yet to suit.





The ECU sits nicely behind the Air Flow Meter (again fixed with riv-nuts and bolts), large fuse box and the 2 relay boards allow the loom to have a nice flow without nasty kinks. I have yet to make up a plate for the 2nd relay board to mount to which I will weld into the inner panel. I also have to shorten to the 2 thick red wires as they connect to the 2nd relay board but in the Audi A6 it's mounted further away.


Then I started looking at where the loom will run into the engine bay. Fortunately the loom falls just right so that it will fit nicely into the front left corner (with small grommet) and then the engine loom will run across the front of the engine bay wall tucked up out of the way.





You can just make out the felt pen outline I traced around the inside of the stock westy rear cupboard Nige leant to me (thanks Nige) so I know this'll all fit inside it.


I need to buy some P-clips to hold the loom up in place and will recover the loom with loom tape once it's all in place.


MG



Edited by Ghia - 15 Nov 09 at 15:01
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Vanorak
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Direct Link To This Post Posted: 19 May 07 at 22:23
Thats cheating, putting a small jet engine in your van. LOL
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Direct Link To This Post Posted: 04 Oct 07 at 09:14

Small update as I've had a lot on my plate recently!

Have tried fitting 2WD diesel front to rear water pipes but found that they won't clear the fuel tank at the back and sit in the proper place in the engine bay. Have now bought some Syncro Diesel front to rears instead and will try those on to match up to the SA water pipes.

Eventually managed to track down 2 early style thermostat housings which the SA vans use. These have gone obsolete from VW/Audi so the only source now is breakers.

Have fitted up the water pipes properly with VW/Audi spring clips so it's starting to come together. The coolant tank is in place although I think I may have to drop it down a little bit to clear the lid.

With the 2.5TDi diesel filter and bracket removed, the water pipes sit quiet nicely and I've added a stock 1.6TD filter in it's stock position. Just need to find some fuel lines and fittings and it'll be connected.

I've now bought my own set of hole saws in order to fit the remaining intake pipe through the rear wall which will come out through the left rear vent.

My tig-welding is ok on stainless steel but for whatever reason, both myself and my friend (who's tig welder I've been using) have been unsuccessful in welding up the charge cooler or any aluminium so I may end up paying someone to do that.

More pics when I get a chance.

MG



Edited by Ghia
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Direct Link To This Post Posted: 04 Oct 07 at 09:27
It's coming on Mike.
T3 Westy, T3 Syncro (the ScoobyVelle), New Beetle Cab, 2 x Polos - I have too many projects
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Direct Link To This Post Posted: 04 Oct 07 at 20:42
 coming on nicely Mike ,getting all the parts together must b a pain !
               keep it coming ,soon b out in the mud with it !
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Direct Link To This Post Posted: 04 Oct 07 at 23:57
Coming on very nicely...hard to believe that it's the same van that was coated in lime!!!
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Direct Link To This Post Posted: 07 Oct 07 at 19:00

Right,

Todays findings are that the Syncro JX uses the same front to rear pipes as the late Syncro petrol including all 2.1s... so I've bought aa 2nd pair of front to rears from CJ for nothing

But on closer inspection the originals were both about to go  so they needed replacing anyway .

The Syncro front to rears stop about a foot short of the engine bay and then use a rubber hose to go into the engine bay. I now have the choice of either using the 2WD Diesel pipes which are hard up against the tank or using the extension pieces as per Syncro....

MG

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