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Topic ClosedLimey the Syncro 16 2.5TDi Westy. 330mm Brakes!!

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Ghia View Drop Down
Vanorak
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Nesh

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Direct Link To This Post Posted: 06 Mar 08 at 21:13

Fitted!







I've got the do some more tig welding on the main inlet pipe for the breather to connect to.







I'll be fitting lots of stainless steel hose clamps soon and some bigger M6 washers!


The chargecooler water system will run as follows:


(The catch tank runs in the system rather than just being there for topping up so it also acts to self bleed rather than the system creating air locks.)


Catch tank out --- to --- Water pump in


Water pump out --- to --- Radiator in


Radiator out --- to --- Chargecooler in (lower pipe)


Chargecooler out --- to --- Catch tank in


MG



Edited by Ghia - 15 Nov 09 at 16:01
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Vanorak
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Direct Link To This Post Posted: 06 Mar 08 at 21:15
Man, hats off to you MG. Top Job.
The bigger the Orange, the bigger the peel.
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Direct Link To This Post Posted: 06 Mar 08 at 23:26
Nice work mike.Clap
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Direct Link To This Post Posted: 06 Mar 08 at 23:30

Congratulate the slack f**ker when he's doing the End to End, John o Groats to Lands End and not before.

Tenner says he doesn't go.

 

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Direct Link To This Post Posted: 07 Mar 08 at 11:41
Originally posted by Ghia Ghia wrote:

 

 

I've still not managed to find a sensibly priced bead roller to roll beads into the ends of the pressure pipes but at the moment I'll be running stock pressure which is no more than 7-11psi.. hopefully everything should stay put. Once I start upgrading, I'll have to bite the bullet.

MG

all we used to do when we had to make coolant pipes at my old job was a nice neat run of weld round the pipe to make a bead round the end..  sometimes that was enen used on high pressure hyd systems (normaly on water systems though for cooling tests).

WHY T3's.... because they are just so adictive, and having one just aint enough
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Direct Link To This Post Posted: 12 Mar 08 at 19:04

Update on Limey.


I used half of today to visit my friend with his Tig welder again to try to get the stainless stuff finished.


For whatever reason me and tig weren't getting on very well today but I got most of it done.


The main inlet pipe breather pipe is now finished along with the Snorkel top piece. I'll be painting this body colour when the van gets  a paint job.







I had a rethink on the exhaust after having drilled many holes through the stainless 3 inch bore pipe and bought some exhaust bits from Milner Offroad to make my silencer and got as far as possible with the tig welder. I think I'll be buying some stainless wire and straight Argon gas for the my mig welder from now on.





With help from the chop saw, things got shorter...







And then longer again with a section of the new exhaust silencer centre added.





The silencer is only 12 inches long and 5 inches in diameter. With the ID bore being 3 inch, that only leaves an inch all the way around for the stainless steel wool to absorb sound. Hmmm I think it's gonna be noisey!


MG



Edited by Ghia - 15 Nov 09 at 17:03
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Direct Link To This Post Posted: 21 Mar 08 at 15:44

Another update of lots of small things. It's amazing how long it takes to do all these little bits!


I have bought a new power steering bottle and bracket from VW, a bargain at �28 all in!





The factory position is just to the left of the diesel fuel filter but I'd already used one of the mounting holes for a wiring socket bracket.


I couldn't find anywhere else where it would fit nicely so the socket got moved again.





Once bolted into position (not easy as the bracket has captive nuts but on a syncro, the fuel tank is in the way of getting into fit bolts. I figured that I could turn the wiring socket bracket through 90o and bolt it to the new bracket. Great but that meant drilling a hole in it and I really didn't want to spend another 1/2 hour fiddling with finger tips on spanners trying to undo bolts I can't even see.


Hmmm, ahah that last drill I bought but hardly ever use will finally get used!





Yey for Snap-on .





Now that the bottle is fitted, I could start on the pipework. I've manged to use the Audi A6 bottle to pump pipe and Pressure pipe (after some heating up and tweeking for the right angle) from the pump and I'll have a feed pipe made up to go from that to the rack. The return is low pressure so I'll use stock hose.





You can also make out the coolant pipe just below the servo pipe which now has a VW joining piece (from the heater matrix front to rear pipes on a T3) in with spring clips. This was the last of the mods needed for the cooling system so it's ready for coolant now.





I've made up a list of the remaining things needed to get it running. It's getting closer and it's taken even longer that I anticipated.


MG



Edited by Ghia - 15 Nov 09 at 17:05
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Direct Link To This Post Posted: 21 Mar 08 at 16:10

dont worry you will get there... and when you do it should be spot on...

just think you should have a t3 syncro that will go most places, quickly, and good mpg...  hard combination to better..

WHY T3's.... because they are just so adictive, and having one just aint enough
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Direct Link To This Post Posted: 12 May 08 at 17:57
Small update but I'm getting there slowly. I need less projects!
 

The exhaust is finished and bolted on.

 

The heat wrap should keep the temps down in the engine bay.

 


 

MG


Edited by Ghia - 15 Nov 09 at 17:05
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Direct Link To This Post Posted: 12 May 08 at 21:33
This is looking pretty damm cool so far Mike...lots of work gone into it!  And I thought having a car and a van as projects were bad enough!LOL
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Direct Link To This Post Posted: 19 May 08 at 08:51
Wiring update.. boy does this wiring ever end?!
 

I've used the connector from an old engine loom to connect directly into the van loom which then passes up into the van to connect to the TDi loom. All the relevant oil pressure, water temp, rev counter (connected to W terminal I had fitted to the alternator), Alternator idiot light, Glow plug light, feed for chargecooler pump, ign feed, and starter trigger have been connected up.

 


 

Also managed to get the final high current wire (feed to the relay box) connected onto the back of the alternator and it happened to be the right length.. phew!

 


 

The remaining wires which need to be connected are speed sensor, brake/clutch switches, throttle potentiometer, oil presssure (guage), aux water pump feed, (will be connected to first speed of cooling fan) oil temp and immobiliser are now wired up to pass through the roof section of the van and down the N/S front pillar to behind the dash. I'm using the bulk of an old loom for the front to rear section I'll be fitting. It's only when you put a wire through the route which you're planning out, pull it back out again and then measure it that you realise just how long they have to be! 7 1/2 meters long!! X15..

 


 

I need more wire to finish the loom so if anyone has broken a van and has the remains of an old loom, please get in touch Wink

 

The 16 now starts and runs (for more than 1/2 a second now that I've remembered the immobiliser box LOL), gears all work, clutch and brakes etc. I just need the loom to the front to connect up to the throttle and I'll be able to take it for a drive!

 

Other little jobs finally done are the wastergate pipe on the turbo (as I'd re-indexed the compressor housing of the turbo), alternator wiring for rev counter, wiring for oil pressure sender (for guage aswell as idiot light).

 

MG


Edited by Ghia - 15 Nov 09 at 17:07
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Direct Link To This Post Posted: 19 May 08 at 10:08
You are a brave man!
Tage is my name :D
Too many T3's...
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Direct Link To This Post Posted: 19 May 08 at 22:17
Nice to see it coming on Mike,`s looking good
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Direct Link To This Post Posted: 19 May 08 at 22:51
More bits'n'pieces done today.
 

I've managed to get the chargecooler all plumbed in, just hose clips to finish and wiring the pump up to the engine loom to go.

 

As Limey was originally a 2.1DJ engine'd van, the remains of the fuel pump brackets were still on the N/S tank strap. After 1/2 an hour of careful work on removing the remains of the original rubber bobbins and cleaning the threads with a tap, I bought new clamp halves and bobbins from (clamps £1.30 each, bobbins £5 ish each). The Chargecooler pump is the same diameter as the stock fuel pump so after a bit of black insulation tape to stop corrosion, it was bolted up in place.

 


 


 


 

Oh yes the bottom of Limey still needs a damn good clean, yes the gearbox is the original (hence the colour) and it leaks, and yes I'm missing a brake flexi fixing!) Wink

 

The pipes run tucked up next to the loom and using existing bodywork/cross member holes.

 


 

All tiewraps were trimmed just after the pic (wish I'd taken it after now!).

 

A Pace Chargecooler radiator from one of my other chargecooler setups has been used and I've managed to modify the brackets which were on it to fix the radiator to the 2 vertical bars which sit in front of the main radiator while still leaving room between the 2 radiators and enough room for a small oil cooler underneath.

 


 


 


 

The pipes run nicely under the front keeping them out of harms way when offroading, also they're away from other coolant pipes to help keep temperature stable.

 


 

I'll be adding a heat sheild in the engine bay over the return line (and wiring) which runs close (about 6 inches away) to the exhaust.

 

I've just ordered a load of wire sleeving and crimp on connections from http://www.autoelectricssupplies.co.uk. We'll see how long the bits take to arrive and quality etc. They cheap though Smile.

 

MG


Edited by Ghia - 15 Nov 09 at 17:08
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Direct Link To This Post Posted: 19 May 08 at 22:58
Thanks Dai it's coming along. Looking at the main radiator, I think it would be a good idea to change it for a new VW one!
 
Taigagreen, thanks! I think crazy is probably closer though Wink
 
MG
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Direct Link To This Post Posted: 20 May 08 at 22:41
Small update as I've been running around fixing family cars again grrrr...
 

I've finished the chargecooler system, all hose clipes fitted, wiring finished on that including water proof connections and it's filled up with anti-freeze and circulating well. It'll take a few journeys around to get all the air out of the system but as the tank is in the system, it'll self bleed. I can put the grill back on now Smile.

 

The wiring to the front of the van is still ongoing. Thanks to Markpark for coming up trumps with another loom for me to canibalise Thumbs%20Up. I now have about 10 meters (that's about 30ft!) of loom to thread through the roof of the van. Once the sleeving turns up I'll probably spend 2 hours just getting everything threaded through LOL.

 


 

Something which has been bugging me about the last time I had this engine in a vehicle (Poshbuggers Doka Syncro), I had to have the Audi ignition switch in the system for the immobiliser but I also wanted to be able to use that function, i.e. take the key away with me so I knew it couldn't be stolen. On my old doka I had the ign switch dangling around by the steering column. I looked very carefully into trying to incorporate the immobiliser ring (which surrounds the ign switch) onto the van ignition switch but it doesn't come apart. So I decided to drill a hole into the steering column housing and glue the Audi setup in place so that I can use the key and it looks fairly neat.

 


 

Yes Limey has a heated drivers seat!

 


 


 


 

MG


Edited by Ghia - 15 Nov 09 at 17:09
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Direct Link To This Post Posted: 22 May 08 at 02:44
Wow.  I've just read this post start to finish.  Very nice work indeed. 
 
I've had a T4 150PS engine/trans sitting idly waiting for a recipient.  This is a motivator to say the least. 
 
Keep up the good work.
 
Cheers.
 
Rob
 
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Direct Link To This Post Posted: 22 May 08 at 22:50
Well it's been a very long day finishing off the wiring and an even longer time coming to this point where I can finally drive it.
For the first time in 19 months, Limey has moved under his own steam!

 

The wiring sleeving and fittings turned up as promised this morning, great stuff!

 


 

I spent the next 2-3 hours getting all that wire into the sleeving and then another couple of hours or so feeding it through the roof and down the front pillar to behind the dash.

 


 


 

Once I've driven around with no error codes in the ECU and I don't want to modify any of the wiring, I'll be using loom tape to wrap everything up neatly. This is the stuff which is used from the factory on looms under dashboards etc. Very sticky and horrible to get off so I don't want to be trying to remove it later.

 

The loom had to pass through from the rear pillar to the room. As stock this isn't possible as there's no hole through the several skins of metal. I drilled a fair size hole through into that area and then into the panels behind to allow the loom to pass through. I'll probably put a grommit in the hole once it's painted up to allow for later access if needed.

 


 


 


 


 


 

I took the opertunity to drill the A-pillar for a grab handle as I wanted access to where the wiring was going and LHD vans don't get them.

 


 


 

I have 3 spare wires unused from front to rear for future upgrades etc like gearbox temp, intake charge temp etc etc (or anything I've forgotten!).

 

Once there, I connected up the throttle potentiometer, immobiliser and started him up. Hmmm, no throttle response. Checked it with the old throttle potentiometer, works ok. It turned out that the pins aren't numbered the same and after 20 mins checking what pin did what with the multimeter, a quick rewire and we're in business!

 

After that I figured while I was doing wiring and as I'd wired in the sensors for oil temp and oil pressure guages, it would seem silly not to fit them now. So with all that lot connected up and damn good clean up, I took the helm and boy does it move off the mark quickly. The throttle response from tickover is great.

 

I haven't wired up the clutch and brake switches yet (haven't fitted them yet!) so they'll be error codes from that and as there's no front diff in at the moment, the speed sensor will come up as another error code. As a result I'll not get the full hp until they're sorted.

 

I'm dead chuffed with it. Just some work on the brakes and we're up for an MOT. Then the Tristar can go into storage and I can start on one of the other vans LOL.

 

MG


Edited by Ghia - 15 Nov 09 at 17:13
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Direct Link To This Post Posted: 22 May 08 at 23:21
A couple of short vids just to prove it runs! Otherwise some would wonder!
 
Also the exhaust is suprisingley quite to say it's a 3 inch diameter system with is a total of 18 inches long with a straight through silencer!
 
 
The glow plug light flashing is a (I'm not happy, have error codes, sort it!) message from the ECU I think. Unless someone else knows better?
 
 
MG
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Direct Link To This Post Posted: 22 May 08 at 23:38
mikey , there have been a few posts on audi forums about this IIRC i *think* it had something to do with IQ settings and/or brakelight/switch issues of all things. will try and find some linkys for ya.
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