Worth Selling? Break? Opinions please! |
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Sychnant
Newbie Joined: 21 Jul 16 Status: Offline Points: 7 |
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Posted: 21 Jul 16 at 16:53 |
Hi everyone,
I have a 1989 LT50 horsebox. It's had lots of new parts and is brilliant to drive, but we can't get it through a plate. The rear brakes are apparently not effective enough, and the handbrake is a problem - the original one was broken by VOSA at it's first test, and they have apparently now also broken the new one we put in. I'm at the end of my tether - I have a new horsebox now anyway, and just wanted this one to be safe and useable for someone else. However I can't afford to keep messing about! The insurance is up in a couple of weeks so it's decision time. Is it worth trying to sell it for spares or repair? Or does anyone know of any breakers who might be interested? If it goes to a breaker I will probably remove the box first to keep as storage. Any ideas welcome as I just don't have space to keep 2 boxes any more :)
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Monster LT
Yardie Joined: 02 Jan 15 Status: Offline Points: 392 |
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Sounds a shame to break it but we could all do with parts. A breaker won't give you much either. You can try alfasudparts or classic-lt on ebay. nice chap.
Surely someone out there would like to bring it back from the brink. Can't the breaks simply be replaced for something bigger? What did VOSA have to say for themselves for doing damage to your vehicle? |
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LT45-TD-ACL-intercooler-4x4-1993
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Sychnant
Newbie Joined: 21 Jul 16 Status: Offline Points: 7 |
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Funnily enough I've just got off the phone with alfasud parts! Lovely guy. Would prefer to sell it to someone who wants to keep it on the road though really.
The brakes probably could be replaced for something bigger - the problem is that I don't have the money to keep trying different things, when I don't intend to keep it anyway :( VOSA were tight-lipped. Just said the handbrake wasn't up to the job. Won't say what I think of that :D Don't suppose you have any ideas of where is best to advertise it for spares/repair? It's driveable, but not legally.
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Bromy
Vanorak Joined: 26 Feb 12 Location: Cambridge Status: Offline Points: 1303 |
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What's the cause of the rear brakes not functioning properly?
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"follow the masses, do the opposite"
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Sychnant
Newbie Joined: 21 Jul 16 Status: Offline Points: 7 |
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I'm not sure - we have put a new Master Cylinder, shoes and Brake Pressure Regulator on it, but the rear brakes won't balance on a brake test. I guess it's fixable but like I say, I have a new box and can't continue spending money on this one. The brakes do the job, just not to VOSA's standards...
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Tiggerandfish
Groupie Joined: 16 Aug 15 Location: Gloucestershire Status: Offline Points: 217 |
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It must be fixable to keep another LT on the road. Obvious question but have you tried a different tester who may be a bit more reasonable ?
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Simon
1985 LT 28 2.4D |
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Sychnant
Newbie Joined: 21 Jul 16 Status: Offline Points: 7 |
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Bit short of test centres up here, there's only 2 :/
I think if the brakes are more than a certain percentage apart it can't pass. Think the brakes just need someone with the time and knowledge to play around themselves - I just can't afford to pay the labour costs to keep experimenting :(
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AndyT
Moderator Group Joined: 16 May 08 Location: Ammanford Status: Offline Points: 2274 |
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You can put an add in the For Sale section for free so long as you give it a price.
Hand brake should be fixable usual problem is the joint seizing at the end of the rod, or the rod snapping. Rear brake drums/shoes could be glazed or it could be air. Dunno where you are but councils and bus companies often have their own mot bays which you can use for the normal test fee. |
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LT28 1979 2.0 Pampas Nevada Camper LPG 93K, 1980 T3 A/C Camper 98K,1994 RRC 3.9 LPG 120k , 1998 Audi A6 Est 2.5 V6 diesel 127k
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Sychnant
Newbie Joined: 21 Jul 16 Status: Offline Points: 7 |
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Drums would be the next thing to do - forgot to say we've also replaced shoes.
Pretty sure it won't be air as the guy working on it owns an HGV garage. I don't have room to keep it at home, nowhere to do the work, and really don't want to spend any more on it as I'll be funding a horsebox for someone else, we've already spent more than we will get back. I'll get some ads put up, thanks everyone :)
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912
Yardie Joined: 13 Jun 16 Status: Offline Points: 268 |
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It sounds like your brakes need adjusting properly, the hydraulics aren't part of the handbrake system, I would slacken the handbrake cable off completely, make sure all handbrake mechanism linkages are free and adjust the rear brakes as tight as you can get them without binding to much, I would also check the diameter of the drums to make sure they are within spec, they can cause the issue you have if adjustment doesn't help, you can take it for a brake test without a full mot
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Sychnant
Newbie Joined: 21 Jul 16 Status: Offline Points: 7 |
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All that's been done except for checking the diameter of the drums, the guy doing it really is very experienced, but like I say, I can't spend any more time or money on it. I have a new box, nowhere to keep it, and have to draw the line somewhere. I'll be advertising it for a while and scrapping if no interest. Thanks so much everyone for taking the time to reply :)
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Elaine
Not Quite Newbie Joined: 07 Jun 11 Location: London Status: Offline Points: 28 |
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Dear Sychnant,
sorry to hear of your van troubles. I am also having problems along the handbrake lines. I'm hoping very much those on this thread might be able to advise.. I am searching for hand brake parts. Here's my sorry tale.. I have just had a new head gasket put in, my brilliant mechanic Seyed has replaced distributor (thanks AndyVan) and various other parts and test running it all has been perfect. The best ever. He put it in for MOT on Saturday and MOT man pulled on handbrake and the pull rod (20) snapped. Argh. Then it got worse. The handbrake is stuck half way. Seyed thinks No 4 (on the Vagcat diagram) is broken, and seized. Also both parts 11 are stuck and he can't get them out. Does anyone know if there's anything plastic around parts 11 as Seyed says he could heat them up to loosen them, but not if there's a chance of melting anything! He thinks part 4 is okay but it's locked into part 9. Part 26 seems to be welded to the van, and is also stuck. Seyed thinks he can remake the pull rod, but he's unable to do anything else until he can remove parts 11 etc. Forgot to say, had booked holiday in van leaving on Saturday!!! So - on search for hand brake parts - VW Heritage hasn't any but could order 4 and 22. Parts 11, 20 and 22 obsolete. Have tried Brickwerks, and several Breakers via google. Any suggestions as unlikely as may be, gratefully received. Thanks v much, Elaine PS trying to upload VagCat diagram.. |
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Elaine
Not Quite Newbie Joined: 07 Jun 11 Location: London Status: Offline Points: 28 |
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Ah managed to upload Vagcat diagram, Elaine
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AndyT
Moderator Group Joined: 16 May 08 Location: Ammanford Status: Offline Points: 2274 |
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Ok, been here myself so will try to explain.
If the handbrake worked before then it's just stuck. First thing is to spray as much penetrating oil as you can around part 26, leave a few mins and keep doing it. I think after a good few soakings I gently tapped part 22 with a hammer up and down. Keep soaking and tapping it will move, once it does you can take it apart if needed and re-grease etc. DO THIS EVERY MONTH OR SO. Part 17 the rod is simple, cut the loops of both ends and weld a new bit in the middle. If the new rod is thicker, make sure you leave enough of the old rod so that it can fit inside parts 23 and 26. Part 4 will be fine, when the rod snapped it has spun upside down inside the handbrake and jammed against part 9. Either remove the pin part 5, or use a screwdriver to lever and spin it back the right way. You will probably have to do this several times when you re-assemble and get parts, 7,4 & 9 working together. It is fiddly but doable in time for your holiday. I'll move the post to Tech once you are sorted out. Edited by AndyT - 28 Jul 16 at 13:14 |
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LT28 1979 2.0 Pampas Nevada Camper LPG 93K, 1980 T3 A/C Camper 98K,1994 RRC 3.9 LPG 120k , 1998 Audi A6 Est 2.5 V6 diesel 127k
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Tiggerandfish
Groupie Joined: 16 Aug 15 Location: Gloucestershire Status: Offline Points: 217 |
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Hi Elaine
Just to add to AndyTs assurance that this is fixable. I too had a handbrake nightmare mid MOT and the mechanism is a bit baffling and fiddly to put together but once freed off it does go back together. Mine had jammed when the pushrod snapped but some gentle brute force and oil got it apart. In terms of the pushrod - I made my replacement pushrod out of 2 lengths of studding welded together and I made a right angle bracket out of a piece of 2mm plate steel drilled for the studding and the handbrake attachment to attach at the front . I can send some pics if you have an email . PM me your email and I'll send them to you. Simon |
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Simon
1985 LT 28 2.4D |
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Elaine
Not Quite Newbie Joined: 07 Jun 11 Location: London Status: Offline Points: 28 |
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Thanks very much AndyT and Simon,
You've given me a glimmer of hope!! I'm just emailing my mechanic the info and will send you my email Simon. Will update with any progress. Thankyouthankyou |
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AndyT
Moderator Group Joined: 16 May 08 Location: Ammanford Status: Offline Points: 2274 |
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Email address is in her profile Simon.
I can take pics or take mine apart if needed, but if you have pics ready just send them mate. |
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LT28 1979 2.0 Pampas Nevada Camper LPG 93K, 1980 T3 A/C Camper 98K,1994 RRC 3.9 LPG 120k , 1998 Audi A6 Est 2.5 V6 diesel 127k
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Tiggerandfish
Groupie Joined: 16 Aug 15 Location: Gloucestershire Status: Offline Points: 217 |
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Thanks - should have thought to look in profile doh!
I've emailed over some pics |
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Simon
1985 LT 28 2.4D |
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Elaine
Not Quite Newbie Joined: 07 Jun 11 Location: London Status: Offline Points: 28 |
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Dear Simon and Andy T,
instructions sent to my mechanic Seyed, and all made sense to him. I think he'd already tried the oiling bit. Nothing is shifting though, he thinks 26 is welded to the van. But its the two bearing pins (both No 11) p/n 281711341 that he's really trying to remove and can't. Do you happen to know if there's any plastic or rubber around those No 11 bearing pins? He doesn't want to heat them to try and loosen them in case there's something that might melt in there. So would be great if you knew. Otherwise I think hammer is next step! Thanks v much. And pictures v useful thanks Simon. Cheers Elaine |
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AndyT
Moderator Group Joined: 16 May 08 Location: Ammanford Status: Offline Points: 2274 |
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Just had a quick look at mine and I'm pretty sure you don't need to remove the top pin 11.
If you remove pin 10 which goes through the loop on the rod, the handbrake lever will lift up and you can get at part 4. Pretty sure 26 is welded and the pin will be well rusted in, access is not good either. The clip part 12 won't be easy, and part 11 has to be hammered out the other way. I don't think there is a rubber bush etc but you should be aware that the underseal burns really well if using heat. I think there is enough access to use a cutting disk on the pin either side of part 22, the pin is nothing special just a pivot point so could be replaced with a bolt and lock nut temporarily. You could then drill out the remainder, might be an option. |
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LT28 1979 2.0 Pampas Nevada Camper LPG 93K, 1980 T3 A/C Camper 98K,1994 RRC 3.9 LPG 120k , 1998 Audi A6 Est 2.5 V6 diesel 127k
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