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energysolutions 
Vanorak
Joined: 02 Dec 08
Location: Earth (For Now)
Status: Offline
Points: 3684
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 Topic: Wonky Locking
Posted: 25 Jan 10 at 23:18 |
My van has begun thinking for itself as it now locks the doors without my input!
Very security conscious of it!
I noticed it a couple of times today, I would unlock it, get in and it would lock all the doors again after (I`m guesstimating) @ 30 seconds
I know these vans relock themselves again if you unlock and dont open any doors within a certain timeframe, but the fact I had opened the drivers door should have cancelled this (it always did before)
Coincidentally the side door has been "temperamental" for some time now, by that I mean it sometimes would unlock with one push of the unlock button and sometimes it would take a second push (but it would always open with the second push if it hadnt already)
My theory is that the lock is a little sticky and as on the first push all the doors are being opened the side door motor is getting slightly less power than on the second push when it has the battery all to itself, which overcomes the stickyness
I plan to strip/clean/lubricate the lock but today it took lots of pushes to get the side door open and this seemed to happen around the same time as the central locking playing up
Could the two be linked? Would the door lock not opening/going wonky have this effect on the central locking or are there two (seperate) faults?
All thoughts welcome
Thanks in advance 
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!!Never Eat Yellow Snow!!
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gregozedobe
Vanorak
Joined: 22 Dec 06
Location: Canberra, Oz
Status: Offline
Points: -998266
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Posted: 26 Jan 10 at 07:16 |
I'll vote for a dodgy micro-switch (sensor) in the driver's door. That means the van doesn't know you have actually opened the door, so it automatically re-locks after 30 seconds. It is a reasonably common fault, and I think there may have been a few threads about it on here. IIRC the quick'n'dirty fix is to spray heaps of CRC/WD40 into it to clean it up, better is to pull it out and clean it up thoroughly, and replace if it is too bad.
The locking mechanism in the sliding door is also prone to problems, in this case I think the usual fix is to replace it. Mine got very stiff and hard to unlock - it was replaced under warranty.
Seeing as you are having problems with two door locks I suggest you check to see you haven't won the trifecta: Have a look at the rear door too, they often have a fault where they aren't locked when they should be ie after auto-locking when you drive, or after you press the lock button twice (this should lock all doors, but not dead-lock them). Many vans had a faulty mechanism that left the rear door unprotected when the owners thought they were safely locked (eg at traffic lights scrotes could just open the door and help themselves to your gear). This was also replaced under warranty on mine (thanks to the T5 forum I knew to check it)
Please let us know how you get on.
Edited by gregozedobe - 26 Jan 10 at 07:23
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T5 TDI
Vanorak
Joined: 05 Nov 05
Status: Offline
Points: 3687
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Posted: 26 Jan 10 at 11:57 |
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I'm with Greg... You can easily test it by leaning across and opening and closing the passenger door when you get in. If that cures it the problem is the microswitch in the driver's door or the wiring to it.
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2004 2.5 174
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energysolutions
Vanorak
Joined: 02 Dec 08
Location: Earth (For Now)
Status: Offline
Points: 3684
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Posted: 26 Jan 10 at 20:03 |
The dodgy microswitch theory makes sense, does this switch also double up for controlling the interior light?
Also when I open the door the multi function display shows it is opened (as it does with all the doors except the rears) so does this prove the switch works? - or not?
I`m gonna strip the side door lock and lubricate it, if that dont work I will replace it. Are these locks easy to replace or is it an ordeal (coding, programming etc)?
I will also double check the rear doors but think they are fine, only issue I have had with them is the door wouldnt open from the inside (link arm had came off a spigot and had got out of adjustment, once it was readjusted, reattached and cable tied in place I had no more hassles)
I`m pretty sure all my doors lock and unlock with a single push, is this possible? Or does deadlocking require a second push?
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!!Never Eat Yellow Snow!!
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T5 TDI
Vanorak
Joined: 05 Nov 05
Status: Offline
Points: 3687
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Posted: 26 Jan 10 at 22:52 |
 energysolutions wrote:
The dodgy microswitch theory makes sense, does this switch also double up for controlling the interior light?
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I think it does. It would still be interesting to see what happens when you open the other door, but theoretically it makes the fault elsewhere. Might be worth checking those wires in the loom under the driver's feet before you part with unnecessary wedge. 
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2004 2.5 174
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energysolutions
Vanorak
Joined: 02 Dec 08
Location: Earth (For Now)
Status: Offline
Points: 3684
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Posted: 26 Jan 10 at 23:02 |
T5 TDI wrote:
energysolutions wrote:
The dodgy microswitch theory makes sense, does this switch also double up for controlling the interior light?
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I think it does. It would still be interesting to see what happens when you open the other door, but theoretically it makes the fault elsewhere. Might be worth checking those wires in the loom under the driver's feet before you part with unnecessary wedge. |
I couldnt imagine VW would use 2 or 3 seperate switches on each door for the various signals (lights, MFD display, Central locking)
I think my plan of attack is gonna be clean/lube the side door lock and see if that helps, if not then its under the seat next
I will also clean/lube the switch on the drivers door but my gut feeling is this is somehow linked to the temporamental side door as it got worse at the same time as the locking went weird
I will give your theory a whirl about opening another door to see if that cancels the relock 
Edited by energysolutions - 26 Jan 10 at 23:04
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!!Never Eat Yellow Snow!!
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energysolutions
Vanorak
Joined: 02 Dec 08
Location: Earth (For Now)
Status: Offline
Points: 3684
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Posted: 26 Jan 10 at 23:06 |
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Sorry I just realised you said wires under the drivers feet (not seat), I had heard of the under seat loom fault before but not this, is there something in there thats known to be problematic?
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!!Never Eat Yellow Snow!!
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T5 TDI
Vanorak
Joined: 05 Nov 05
Status: Offline
Points: 3687
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Posted: 26 Jan 10 at 23:08 |
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Don't forget the corroded wiring isn't actually under the seat but about a foot in front of it.
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2004 2.5 174
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energysolutions
Vanorak
Joined: 02 Dec 08
Location: Earth (For Now)
Status: Offline
Points: 3684
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Posted: 26 Jan 10 at 23:21 |
T5 TDI wrote:
Don't forget the corroded wiring isn't actually under the seat but about a foot in front of it. |
Is that why you said under the drivers feet?
How do you access it?
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!!Never Eat Yellow Snow!!
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T5 TDI
Vanorak
Joined: 05 Nov 05
Status: Offline
Points: 3687
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Posted: 27 Jan 10 at 07:16 |
 I'm awake again now! 
Edit- Maybe not, I didn't even notice your second sentence! You have to take the rubber floor covering up.
Edited by T5 TDI - 27 Jan 10 at 07:23
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2004 2.5 174
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gregozedobe
Vanorak
Joined: 22 Dec 06
Location: Canberra, Oz
Status: Offline
Points: -998266
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Posted: 27 Jan 10 at 08:13 |
energysolutions wrote:
I`m pretty sure all my doors lock and unlock with a single push, is this possible? Or does deadlocking require a second push? |
For the benefit of those that don't understand how the locks on their van works, here is a detailed description (apologies to those that know all this stuff already). I haven't described how the OEM alarm works with the lock/unlock buttons as my van doesn't have an alarm. This stuff is in the owner's manual, but isn't expressed as clearly as it could be.
Actual locking functions depend on how the van's locking is programmed. Most T5s in Oz seem to be programmed as described below, but to allow for personal preferences many other combinations are possible (options can be changed using full height MFD if fitted, VCDS/VAGCOM or dealer software tool) :
- Press unlock button on remote once: unlock driver's door only (other doors will remain locked, not deadlocked)
- Press unlock button on remote twice: unlock all doors
- Press lock button on remote once: deadlock all doors
- Press lock button on remote twice: lock all doors (not not deadlocked)
- Press unlock button on driver's door control: unlock all doors
- Press lock button on driver's door control: lock all doors (not deadlocked)
- Turn key clockwise in exterior of driver's door: unlock driver's door only (other doors will remain locked, not deadlocked)
- Turn AND hold key clockwise in exterior of driver's door: electric windows open
- Turn key anti-clockwise in exterior of driver's door: deadlock all doors
- Turn AND hold key anti-clockwise in exterior of driver's door: electric windows close
- Drive above 10mph: lock all doors (not deadlocked)
- Take key out of ignition: unlock driver's door (other doors will remain locked, not deadlocked)
- Lock van but leave a door open: when you shut the open door the van will automatically lock all doors (this is seems to be how some people lock their keys inside their van).
- Unlock van but don't open door within 30 seconds: van automatically relocks (a security measure to protect from accidental presses of the unlock button on the remote)
Note that a "locked" door can be opened from the inside by pulling on the door open lever twice (the first pull unlocks, the second pull actually opens the door), while a "deadlocked" door cannot be opened (really - without a lot of trouble a deadlocked door will remain resolutely closed).
Because of this you should NEVER deadlock your van when someone is inside (they won't be able to open a door in an emergency).
You should also take good care of your keys (without them you will NOT drive your van anywhere, not even with the assistance of a good locksmith, and they are very expensive to replace and it takes weeks, not hours, and involves a VW dealer to reprogram  ).
It is a PITA if you lock your keys in the van, especially if you don't have easy access to your spare (and you do have spare, don't you ? If not, see the para immediately above).
/lecture
Edited by gregozedobe - 27 Jan 10 at 08:15
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zedzedeleven
Vanorak
Joined: 05 Jan 06
Location: west cumbria
Status: Offline
Points: 1169
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Posted: 27 Jan 10 at 11:05 |
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Excellent Greg, this should become a permanent locked topic imho. Just for reassurance, I need to replace the button battery in my key, is it straightforward or is it possible to cock it up by farting around too long and losing the memory in it ?
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1.9 85ps swb 2004 in friesan green.
bring me sunshine.
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gregozedobe
Vanorak
Joined: 22 Dec 06
Location: Canberra, Oz
Status: Offline
Points: -998266
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Posted: 28 Jan 10 at 15:01 |
zedzedeleven wrote:
Just for reassurance, I need to replace the button battery in my key, is it straightforward or is it possible to cock it up by farting around too long and losing the memory in it ? |
Should be pretty easy, just make sure you have a gander at one of the many on-line how-to instructions. I don't think there is amy volatile memory to worry about in a VW remote. I had one of mine apart without a battery in it for several weeks and it worked fine as soon as I put a batttery back in it (and that was when putting the VW remote guts into a genuine Bentley casing  )
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energysolutions
Vanorak
Joined: 02 Dec 08
Location: Earth (For Now)
Status: Offline
Points: 3684
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Posted: 28 Jan 10 at 18:14 |
gregozedobe wrote:
(and that was when putting the VW remote guts into a genuine Bentley casing ) |
Snob
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!!Never Eat Yellow Snow!!
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Tim the gas
Yardie
Joined: 05 Dec 09
Location: Surrey
Status: Offline
Points: 262
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Posted: 28 Jan 10 at 18:40 |
Excellent information Greg. I just had to go outside to the van and turn and hold key clockwise to see windows go down.  I've had my van 5 years + and never knew it had that function !  Note to self - read hand book
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2004 T30 174-AXE- CELTIC MAPPED TO 228 BHP - LWB TORNADO RED PANEL VAN
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gregozedobe
Vanorak
Joined: 22 Dec 06
Location: Canberra, Oz
Status: Offline
Points: -998266
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Posted: 29 Jan 10 at 08:59 |
energysolutions wrote:
gregozedobe wrote:
(and that was when putting the VW remote guts into a genuine Bentley casing ) |
Snob |
Hey, it's the only bit of bling my van has - otherwise it is just a plain white van, std grey van front bumper, black mirrors, std steel wheels/tyres, not lowered, no window tints, no leather seats etc, no nuthin' at all (admittedly my choice)
The Bentley key does get the newbie service people at my dealer all excited when they see it, then they get crushingly disappointed when one of the old hands tells them it is only a std T5 van. Apparently some refuse to believe it at first, and have to try the remote to prove to themselves.
I just think it is a bit of a giggle, and if I could find a Lamborghini remote at a reasonable price I'd get one and convert it to work my Skoda Octavia |
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energysolutions
Vanorak
Joined: 02 Dec 08
Location: Earth (For Now)
Status: Offline
Points: 3684
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Posted: 29 Jan 10 at 09:07 |
gregozedobe wrote:
and if I could find a Lamborghini remote at a reasonable price I'd get one and convert it to work my Skoda Octavia |
If burgulars ever broke in and saw those keys (Bentley and Lamborghini) they`d probably think Christmas had came early
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!!Never Eat Yellow Snow!!
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gregozedobe
Vanorak
Joined: 22 Dec 06
Location: Canberra, Oz
Status: Offline
Points: -998266
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Posted: 30 Jan 10 at 10:52 |
Yeah, but imagine the crushing disappointment when they get down to the garage and can only find a bog std T5 and an Octavia ? :)
Mind you with a bit of luck our doberman might have relieved them of a few essential body parts before they got to the keys ;)
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energysolutions
Vanorak
Joined: 02 Dec 08
Location: Earth (For Now)
Status: Offline
Points: 3684
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Posted: 30 Jan 10 at 11:30 |
gregozedobe wrote:
Mind you with a bit of luck our doberman might have relieved them of a few essential body parts before they got to the keys ;) |
Hopefully
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!!Never Eat Yellow Snow!!
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red_bug68
Not Quite Newbie
Joined: 20 Feb 06
Location: Scotland
Status: Offline
Points: 32
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Posted: 06 Feb 10 at 15:36 |
| Hi |
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| Been searching through here looking at issues with central locking as in the last few weeks as I've started having issues with my van! |
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| First off I would have issues getting the key fob to open the central locking and it would sometimes open but the flashers would stay on and on other occasions it would work fine, but then at any time the alarm would go off for no reason, so one evening I disconnected the battery as the neighbours were mentioning that a car alarm had kept going off over the last few nights! |
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| Any way now the locking won't open via the key fob and the door central locking buttons don't work, I have lifted the mat and the wiring is damp and I've traced it back to the bottom centre of the dash didn't see any signs of issues though, I did connect VAG-Com and the error code is that it won't detect central convenience unit, does this happen if the wiring has issues under the matting or is it the control unit? |
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| Something I did notice is that a couple of times when the issues first started when pressing the door button it would buzz from under the drivers seat a bit like faulty relay! |
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| is there any way to open the other doors with the key in the drivers door when the central locking doesn't work as the dead locks seem to be on and I need to get it fuelled up.
Wray |
Edited by red_bug68 - 06 Feb 10 at 15:38
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T5 174 Engine Code AXE
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Wonky Locking