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mikebdomain View Drop Down
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    Posted: 14 Oct 08 at 10:01

Some welding on my rear quarter.... Don't know whether this is the right place, I just wanted to show what is possible even with no prior welding experience. This was my first welding ever and the first of loads of welding on my ol bus...

 
What it looked like after removing the bumper and prior to cleaning
 
What it looked like after being cleaned up with a wire brush (what a bloody mess)
 
I couldn't buy the rear quarter part from anywhere - believe me I tried, so after a little fabrication this is what I ended up with
 
 
And with the bumper back on...
1995 LT35 2.4 Diesel
Camper conversion
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote AndyT Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 15 Oct 08 at 17:15
Hi Folks,

Here's the place to post your before and after pics, or how do I repair this pics etc.

Cheers

Andy
LT28 1979 2.0 Pampas Nevada Camper LPG 93K, 1980 T3 A/C Camper 98K,1994 RRC 3.9 LPG 120k , 1998 Audi A6 Est 2.5 V6 diesel 127k

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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote mikebdomain Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 15 Oct 08 at 18:58
Yipee Smile
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (1) Thanks(1)   Quote mikebdomain Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 15 Oct 08 at 19:07
The floor after removing the previous owners floor covering - I don't like the look of those worrying signs of rust.
 
 
 
I knew I didn't like the look of that rust...
 
Time to get on with it...
 
That's the floor done - bring it on...
 
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote mikebdomain Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 15 Oct 08 at 19:12
Replacing part of the sill .. I'm getting used to this rusty ol bus..
 
Cleaned and the rust cut away
 
New piece welded in place, filled and undercoat on...
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote mikebdomain Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 15 Oct 08 at 19:19

LOL - sorry about this, but I did say you would need some space - last one - I promise...

Bent and buckled side panal

Area cleaned of all rust with a wire brush. I decided NOT to cut away the old non rusty body work.
 
 
Plates welded in place - although the pic shows the middle section just tacked I did weld it as a solid weld all the way across (Honest) just forgot to take a picture - Not pretty, granted - but it is solidly in place and welded right through.
 
And now for the filler and primer...
 
Looks better now it has had a top coat and is dressed etc...
 


Edited by mikebdomain - 16 Oct 08 at 07:56
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote mikebdomain Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 15 Oct 08 at 19:22
Thanks for putting the thread up Andy - I'm looking forward to see other members welding projects soon...
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote rockradio Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 15 Oct 08 at 19:31
Very interesting stuff and good work with the welding guys. Very neat job on that sill/skirt repair. How did you get the weld edge slightly recessed so you could make a smooth layer of filler. I presume the plate welded in was put behind the body and welded like that? Do you have to hammed the weld to make it recessed for filling?
 
Also worth the rest of us taking note about the places the rust has got to and get those places brushed up/sprayed with old oil on our vans if not gone yet. I noticed on mine the bottom of those strenghening struts on the inside of the sill/skirt is a place where rust likes to start. Had a couple of little rust bubbles show, but a soaking in oil has stopped it getting any worse for a year or two now. Also worth taking care of the rear of the rear arches for obvious reasons and giving a good coating of old oil. Looks like the rear quarters suffer a fair bit too. Mine is not great on the off side, but has had a repair there in the past (previous owner, not me).
LT35 camper 1987 2.4 litre 6 pot diesel, DW engine, no turbo, no PAS.
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote mikebdomain Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 15 Oct 08 at 19:41
on the sill I ground the edges of the sheet metal and bodywork to approx 45 degree angle so it has a decent grove and welded flush.
 
After replacing about half of the strengthening structs - I went around the whole lot and fulley under coated them, then drilled a drainage hole, as the water seems to collect just behind them. Obviously I primed painted and undercoated the drainage holes - I'm hoping this will stop those areas from rusting again.
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (1) Thanks(1)   Quote AndyT Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 15 Oct 08 at 19:50
LT28 1979 2.0 Pampas Nevada Camper LPG 93K, 1980 T3 A/C Camper 98K,1994 RRC 3.9 LPG 120k , 1998 Audi A6 Est 2.5 V6 diesel 127k

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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote rockradio Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 15 Oct 08 at 19:57
Originally posted by mikebdomain mikebdomain wrote:

on the sill I ground the edges of the sheet metal and bodywork to approx 45 degree angle so it has a decent grove and welded flush.
 
After replacing about half of the strengthening structs - I went around the whole lot and fulley under coated them, then drilled a drainage hole, as the water seems to collect just behind them. Obviously I primed painted and undercoated the drainage holes - I'm hoping this will stop those areas from rusting again.
 
Good tip about the 45 degree edge. I'll remember that for when I get my welding gear next year (saving up at moment).
 
When I first got my van I went around the underside with that black "waxoyl" stuff in a spraycan. Really wish I hadn't now as it seems to almost make any rust worse. Soon shows through and when its taken off there seems to be a sandwich of metal/rust/black underseal stuff. I got a bit too much at the bottom of those sill struts and now there is a big lump of it at the bottom where it joins the body. I can't easily get it out and for now I've just soaked it with oil as it dries out within a few months after spraying it. Good idea about the drainage hole. I'll remember that if I ever have to do some serious work on them.
 
Great job on the welding man!
LT35 camper 1987 2.4 litre 6 pot diesel, DW engine, no turbo, no PAS.
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote mikebdomain Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 15 Oct 08 at 19:57
Fantastic stuff Andy... Got my order in...
 
But I find this a little difficult to believe "end result is a first class welded butt joint with very little dressing being necessary." As I can only seem to weld with 1mm wire, I end up with tons of dressing to do - Mind you anything that helps in holding plates in place is a benefit.
 
On flat plates I use strong magnets (from an hold motorcycle tank bag)


Edited by mikebdomain - 15 Oct 08 at 20:14
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote mikebdomain Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 15 Oct 08 at 20:13
rockradio - the secret I found with any undersealing is make sure you do a really good clean up first or else all your doing is sealing in the moisture and rubbish and it will rust, probably (as you say) worse as the moisture will not evaporate on a hot day, but is able to continue attacking the metal, protected from evaporation by the lovely layer of sealant you provided.
 
I always do a good clean up and remove any surface rust. If there is any bear metal I use a good quality zinc primer, then a good thick topcoat - halfords cheapest matt black does the job for me for any work underneath. Then I will apply the undercoat. I did the whole of the underneath of the van this summer, including the void between the inner and outer sills - the whole job took 15 x 500mm spray cans and 3 x 5 Litre cans of brush on.
 
This was me after the job
 
My wife though it was hillarious - The state of my face was even with wearing a mask (dodgy stuff, underseal) IF I EVER do it again I would change the mask after every other can used...


Edited by mikebdomain - 15 Oct 08 at 20:17
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote AndyT Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 15 Oct 08 at 20:14
My mig uses 0.8 so I guess it puts down a smaller weld and therefore easier to clean up with the grinder. Also use magnets occasionally, as well as the odd pop rivet to hold stuff in place.
LT28 1979 2.0 Pampas Nevada Camper LPG 93K, 1980 T3 A/C Camper 98K,1994 RRC 3.9 LPG 120k , 1998 Audi A6 Est 2.5 V6 diesel 127k

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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote mikebdomain Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 15 Oct 08 at 20:21
Andy - I tried 0.6 and 0.8 my mig will take all three with a change of tip - but I just couldn't get on with either - 0.6 the wire seemed to burn back to the tip too quicky no matter what power or wire speed setting I had - and even with 0.8 I couldn't get a weld I was happy with - mind you I am a bit OCD - and if the weld is not right through I have a tendancy to grind it off and do it again. I found with 1mm wire I could turn the power up just enough so as not to buckle the plate, but get a nice 'burn through' - the downside is I am left with a lot of weld to take off, still I would rather that and know that the weld is solid.

Edited by mikebdomain - 15 Oct 08 at 20:22
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote rockradio Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 15 Oct 08 at 20:39
Originally posted by mikebdomain mikebdomain wrote:

rockradio - the secret I found with any undersealing is make sure you do a really good clean up first or else all your doing is sealing in the moisture and rubbish and it will rust, probably (as you say) worse as the moisture will not evaporate on a hot day, but is able to continue attacking the metal, protected from evaporation by the lovely layer of sealant you provided.
 
I always do a good clean up and remove any surface rust. If there is any bear metal I use a good quality zinc primer, then a good thick topcoat - halfords cheapest matt black does the job for me for any work underneath. Then I will apply the undercoat. I did the whole of the underneath of the van this summer, including the void between the inner and outer sills - the whole job took 15 x 500mm spray cans and 3 x 5 Litre cans of brush on.
 
 
I've learnt my lesson of trying to do a quick job just to protect it for the winter. Couldn't get seriously involved with van at time and just thought I'd do a quick protection job to the underside as winter approached, but now wish I had left it until I had more time. This was back in 2002 and spent a lot ot the time since making good what I did then.
 
You look similar to how I looked after an afternoon brushing on old engine oil. Can't wait to get started with my welding. I keep looking on ebay for a 130 amp gas/gasless MIG type as I understand this would be the best to get started with. I've already found a 1ft x 1ft sheet of steel in my garage left by the previous owner and apart from wire and a good mask I can't think of anything else I need to get started. Perhaps a few clamps?
 
This is all heavy engineering for me as the most I've ever gone to is soldering electronics which I used to do as a living. Really looking forward to getting started when I have saved up enough or see something going for a song on ebay.


Edited by rockradio - 15 Oct 08 at 20:44
LT35 camper 1987 2.4 litre 6 pot diesel, DW engine, no turbo, no PAS.
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote AndyT Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 15 Oct 08 at 21:09
Mike, you could try this forum regarding thinner wire

http://www.mig-welding.co.uk/forum/index.php

I haven't posted anything yet apart for a request for a manual for my old machine ages ago, but they seem a friendly bunch



LT28 1979 2.0 Pampas Nevada Camper LPG 93K, 1980 T3 A/C Camper 98K,1994 RRC 3.9 LPG 120k , 1998 Audi A6 Est 2.5 V6 diesel 127k

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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote team french Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 15 Oct 08 at 21:16
i got two sets of welding clamps(the mole grip types) from aldi, bout a tenner a set if i remember right with three clamps in each set. was a while ago but they will probly have them in again sometime.
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote thal Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 15 Oct 08 at 21:48
Hi my tip for but welding in sections if you dony have a joggler is cut some matchbox size pieces of steel and tac weld these in behind and across the corners of the hole place your new section on top of these and tac in place. this will hold your patch without clamps while you stitch it in.
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote mikebdomain Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 15 Oct 08 at 22:19
Good site Andy - I have been on there a few times,  especially when looking for parts for the Mig - in fact I bought my empty argon bottle off of a guy on there.
 
Rockradio - where 'bouts in the country are you? I have an almost new (used twice - although it might have a couple of dents in the outer casing now, where I have stored stuff on top of it.) gasless 130 Mig in the back of my shed.
 
I remember taking the handle off of it a while ago to scavenge parts - I don't think they fitted what I wanted and as far as I remember I put it all back together again.
 
I couldn't get on with the damn thing, and havn't  ever used it in anger except when throwing it in the back of the shed...  I'd be happy with £40.00 for it, it cost me about £160  - problem is, it's heavy and I don't really want to go through the hassle of trying to post it..
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