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V6 LPG engine and overdrive gearbox transplant.

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AndyT View Drop Down
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote AndyT Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 20 Sep 09 at 17:05
All we need now are some performance figures.

I time my 2.0 using a calendar!!
LT28 1979 2.0 Pampas Nevada Camper LPG 93K, 1980 T3 A/C Camper 98K,1994 RRC 3.9 LPG 120k , 1998 Audi A6 Est 2.5 V6 diesel 127k

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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote t'onion Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 20 Sep 09 at 17:18
Liking the wheels ... what are they ? size etc.. and how did you fit them ?

Engine conversion looks well cool Clap
LT28 Westfalia FloRida, 2.4 diesel

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Jam-Man View Drop Down
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote Jam-Man Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 20 Sep 09 at 17:28
Hi t'onion. That pic is a mock up just to see how far off the Rangie pattern was. They are from a Range Rover, but to get them to fit safely I need to re-drill the hubs and halfshafts. Offset and inset are perfect so they will be going on, and those are the right size tyres too. In the meantime I have a set of Transit steel wheels that I've countersunk to ft properly.
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote Jam-Man Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 20 Sep 09 at 17:40
The performance is extremely rapid to 50mph, then slower on to 70'ish as a top speed due to running out of revs thanks to poor gearing in the rear axle. I've established pretty much that the rear axle is 4.1:1. Which is good for acceleration but not cruising with this engine. So, by putting 16" rims with 205x16 tyres on it raises my rolling diameter from 26.92" to 28.92". This gives an effective axle ratio of approx 3.7:1. This together with the overdrive mods should do the trick. Losing some of the acceleration won't be an issue because at present it will spin it's wheels into second gear from a standing start! This is no good as I wanted a van that would cruise all day at a relaxed 70mph and be economical, not a drag racer! So the mods should sort this. I can also go bigger on tyres to 225/75x16 if needed too which will give me another half inch. We hired a big Iveco the other week for our business and it was fast, but the V6 LT left it for dust up to 60mph, when it ran out of steam. The bigger wheels will fix that. Incidentally, my other LT is a 1979 2 litre petrol, and that was slow too 'till I rebuilt the engine with a slight over bore and some Porsche 924 oily bits instead of LT spec. Now, it's still not a sports car but it is faster than this 6 cylinder van was as a diesel. I also have loads of pictures of that full rebuild as well if people are interested and are not fed up of me yet???!!Big smile
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AndyT View Drop Down
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote AndyT Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 20 Sep 09 at 17:48
I'm interested if no one else is cos I'm not sure if there's room for a larger engine in the engine bay.
Top speed doesn't interest me much, its the ability to climb hills at a reasonable speed I need.
LT28 1979 2.0 Pampas Nevada Camper LPG 93K, 1980 T3 A/C Camper 98K,1994 RRC 3.9 LPG 120k , 1998 Audi A6 Est 2.5 V6 diesel 127k

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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote Jam-Man Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 20 Sep 09 at 18:20
Unfortunately Andy, I don't have pictures of the engine being built, just what's in my head! Also mine is a low top van. If you have a high top or a camper, of course the engine struggles that bit more. I have loads of pics of body resto though if you want them I can email them to you. If you think they're worth it, and if you don't mind again perhaps you could upload them to a new thread? Up to you... Out of interest, I also measured my old van up for an engine transplant before I decided to rebuild. As you're aware, the floor of the old van's is significantly different to the newer 6 cylinder ones. However, the engine I settled on was a Montego Turbo petrol engine, running LPG. If you remove the front drive stuff off the engine, turn it the proper way and mate it to a Rover 3.5 5 speed gearbox with 2 litre petrol Sherpa van  rear engine plate and bellhousing you're in business! It fits in real well and gives an easy 160bhp and suitable torque, while still retaining the all important 2 litre engine size for insurance purposes. And, all the aformentioned bits just bolt together like they're meant to be there. You also use the Sherpa van clutch and flywheel which is much bigger and designed for commercial use. Sorted!
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote paulr Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 20 Sep 09 at 19:06
Interesting thread !
 
I 'm thinking of going down the path of a small block chevy and lpg.
 
A few years ago I got rid of a 24 valve 2.9 scorpio cosworth v6 which would have been ideal :-(
.......Oh well.
www.flexiblesanders.co.uk
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote Jam-Man Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 21 Sep 09 at 08:29
Hi Paul, A small block Chevy is a fine engine.... but rather big, wide and very heavy! You'd probably be into some serious structural  mods to get in in place, and you'd have to have some serious cooling system to keep that running cool inside the cab. I 'd love to see that fitted though! Scorpio 2.9 would be fantastic as long as you're handy with wiring. It gives out a lot of power and torque.
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote paulr Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 21 Sep 09 at 10:24
Hi Jam-Man.
 
Thanks for the info.
 
To be honest, I'd not thought about a V6, my thinking was to go for something a liitle bit...ahem....different. Afterall, there can't be that much extra work/cost to drop a V8 in compared to a V6. I know of a few people around here that do quite a bit of work with Chevy blocks and I haven't much knowledge on these things.
 
I'm coming into a bit of money hopefully within the next 12 months so it will be someone else's headache to sort out anyway!
 
I was thinking of around the 4.2/4.5 as max size but when I'm ready to start it I will weigh up all the 'pro's and cons'.
 
I had considered going down the diesel turbo path but thought there's a great deal of work and time there (without the cost) for not a lot of extra power. It makes more sense (to me at least) to drop a bigger petrol engine in and an LPG kit. If you're going to do an engine swap you may aswell make it worthwhile !
 
I'll be watching your thread with a lot of interest and hopefully I'll get a chance to see it.
 
Regards.
Paul.
www.flexiblesanders.co.uk
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote Jam-Man Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 21 Sep 09 at 12:56

There is also the proble that you don't want to make a van too fast if you are still planning on using it as a van as it becomes very hard to control. The best conversions to anything I've ever done, have always been the ones that have achieved the best balance, and not necessarily the ones that looked best on paper or in my head! Incidentally the smaller Chevy engines are not worth having. They generally weigh the same, achieve similar (poor!) MPG and take up the same room. Also parts for the 350 (5.7 litre) are dirt cheap and the sky is the limit for power. Still don't recommend one in an LT though... Although you are correct when you say the instal would be the same from a connecting up point of view. Also, although Chevy engines are still reasonably cheap here, 5 speed gearboxes are definitely not.And, if you go the auto route, you once again have the revving it's nuts off at 60mph that you won't be able to do much about.

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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote paulr Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 21 Sep 09 at 13:16
Thanks for your advice Jam-Man.
 
It's still an idea and any feedback is more than welcome.
 
I only use the van for fishing trips/odd holiday so it doesn't do much mileage yearly.It's more of a day/doss van. The fuel consumption isn't really that much of an issue either as the van goes through my business anyway.
Ideally I was looking at something to replace the engine in the 200bhp range. Most smaller high performance engines are high revving which wouldn't suit the LT with the amount of torque needed to pull it. That is why I was thinking of a Yank V8 for the low down grunt.
 
The brakes would be uprated at the very least. I've already had a few 'brown trousers' moments with the LT in standard form !
 
I will be looking at all options when I'm ready to do it.
 
Best regards.
Paul.
www.flexiblesanders.co.uk
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote Andy Mel Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 22 Sep 09 at 13:36
Hi Jam-man,

as an owner of a 2.0l i would be really interested in the re-build info that you worked out from your van and quite what you did! Love my van as i do, its engine really could with help...

Cheers,
Andy
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote Jam-Man Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 22 Sep 09 at 13:59
Hi Andy,
 
It was a while ago now when I actually rebuilt the engine, but I do recall the following. Large as possible over-bore to increase cc by approx 50. Cylinder head skim to increase compression ratio. This would now need super unleaded to have a positive effect. Modification to carburettor, or replacement type such as Weber (they do a kit). I put a bigger carb on, can't remember what off right now. It'll come to me. Also different camshaft. I think it was  P924 item. Straightened route of exhaust and made boxes smaller. All these mods were good for around 10-15 hp. This may not sound much, but it made a significant difference to my low top van. Unfortunately it still gives out less power than a standard 2.0 litre Ford Pinto engine, but it is at least beautifully made! At the end of the day, without going to fuel injection or throttle bodies at great expense, I don't think you'll ever see real power gains from this motor. Just a 'pep-up' I'm afraid. If you have a high top or camper, I don't think you'll notice much if anything as it'll still be way underpowered for the work it has to do. At one stage I did fit an in-line overdrive to mine and it just didn't have enough torque to pull it without tailwind assistance! Don't think it would now either unfortunately, but as I've had this one from new, I don't want to alter it's original state. Especially as I've now rebuilt it to like new. Pictures will followof the rebuild when I can get them on! Hope this helps a little? Sorry I don't have a golden fix for you.
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote AndyT Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 22 Sep 09 at 14:09
Sounds like for us 4cyl guys that the montego turbo option is the best bet.
Trouble is I haven't seen one for years, a mate of mine had a 1.6 which did well over 200k without any major issues so I assume the basic motor is fine.

Jam-Man can you give us an idea of how available the parts recommended are and at what cost please.

Cheers

Andy
LT28 1979 2.0 Pampas Nevada Camper LPG 93K, 1980 T3 A/C Camper 98K,1994 RRC 3.9 LPG 120k , 1998 Audi A6 Est 2.5 V6 diesel 127k

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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote BeJay Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 22 Sep 09 at 14:29
 
Andy,
          can't fault the montego 2.0l turbo diesel unit (it's not a Rover engine actually a Perkins Prima engine) I put one in my landrover lightweight (air portable) when I had it, compared to the original 2.25 petrol engine it produced way more power, was much quicker off the mark and had loads more torque, and the bonus was it just about doubled the fuel figures (used to struggle to better 18 mpg with the old 2.25 Unhappy) brilliant engine, would still be going long after the actual Montego had rotted away from around it LOL and no fancy wiring or electronics to sort, when it was in I just drained the fuel tank, refilled with diesel, bled it through, make sure the stop solenoid has a power feed, crank it over and she fired straight up, not too sure how it'd handle a hi top LT but the lightweight was the best part of 2 tonne and it didn't have any probs pulling that.
                                      cheers Jack.
 
P.S. if you're seriously looking it may be worth your while keeping an eye out on some landrover or offroad forums or the classified ads in the 4x4 mags as it's a popular swap into SWB series landrovers.


Edited by BeJay - 22 Sep 09 at 14:34
NIL ILLIGITIMUS CARBORUNDUM
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Jam-Man View Drop Down
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote Jam-Man Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 22 Sep 09 at 15:08
Hi guys. I actually meant the 2.0 turbo petrol unit, but as BeJay points out quite correctly the 2.0 turbo diesel is also an extemely fine unit and still plentiful. I just bought a whole Montego TD just for the engine and box to upgrade my trusty old Maestro van from diesel to turbo diesel. The whole low mileage (but rusty) car only cost me £350 on Ebay. My Maestro diesel has done 320 000 miles and still uses no oil. In that time it's had one head gasket... The TD unit, is indeed a Perkins Prima, but is infact a modified petrol unit effectively. It is extremely strong and durable and has no major flaws. As you can see from the Landy boys, these engines are good, and are also beautifully made... The same gearbox options as explained for the petrol one would work. While the petrol versions are not exactly plentiful now, they are still available, particularly in later (even more powerful) twin cam versions in the Rover range from 200 series up to 800 series. Although these have more complex wiring with fuel injection whereas the Montego/Maestro turbo is simple and runs a pressurised SU carb. As I say, they are not exactly plentiful, but are around. I mentioned it only as it is a perfect engine and the only one I measured up at the time. The 2.0 litre petrol injection engine would still be a good unit at around 120hp and is far more plentiful. The wiring is again fairly simple even though it's injected. So, as you can see, anything from that family petrol or diesel would be a good choice I think. Especially as the gearboxes are still very reasonably priced on ebay. For the diesel option you simply use the 2.0 sherpa gearbox instead of the Rover one. All engine conversions take work and lateral thinking, but it does help if the engine fits the hole in the first place without significant modification to the van's structure. You'd be amazed how much time and trouble that saves. 
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote GT500 Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 22 Sep 09 at 19:45
Has anyone tried a 1.8T from audi/vw?
I bet the belhousing pattern would be the same as the LT, they tend to keep the same across the range.
I have just got an A6 2.5 tdi for mine that will have 170bhp and tons of torque for my engine swap. More wiring to sort but if you can get the whole car then its not so bad!
Rob... The only LT on 18" wheels.
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote Jam-Man Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 22 Sep 09 at 23:27
Looks like a few of us on here have got the engine swapping madness!! Fantastic.... It's incurable you know when you get going!
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote deltamal47 Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 19 Oct 09 at 13:08
The main prob I could see with engine/gearbox transplants, is that the gearbox lives under the flatbed! (LT40 recovery waggon) how would the linkage thats usualy on top of a standard gearbox get to the driver? I quite fancied putting a Sprinter set up in mine....
Beavertail LT40, DRAG RACING COURIER!
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote Jam-Man Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 19 Oct 09 at 14:33
The gearbox linkage is definitely the hardest part. but we've managed to make it work ok. Better than it was as a VW in fact. It just takes a lot of minor adjustments, refitting and testing. It also depends a lot on the type of gearbox you use and the gearchange it has. Don't forget, your existing gearbox is way back there under the bed as well, so it's 'only' a case of modifying the existing arrangement to fit your new box.
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