2004 2.5 T5 No oil light on dash |
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GordonC
Not Quite Newbie Joined: 19 Jan 19 Location: Southampton Status: Offline Points: 24 |
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Posted: 19 Jan 19 at 14:41 |
Hi everyone. Just joined so please be gentle!.
My 2004 t5 2.5 has lost its oil warning light (the one that flashes momentarily when you first turn the ign on) not sure if that means if the oil pressure drops the light won't work or not Anyway, I've checked fuses, disconnected battery overnight. Anybody had this before, Hoping its not the sensor. Don't really want to take the front off if it can be avoided. Any help really appreciated. Thanks in advance. |
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T5 TDI
Vanorak Joined: 05 Nov 05 Status: Offline Points: 3687 |
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Welcome. :)It's most likely to be the oil pressure switch. You can change it without taking the front off but it is a bit fiddle. http://www.brick-yard.co.uk/forum/topic92445_post715104.html#715104 The other possibilities are a fault with the dash or a broken wire from the switch. The cheapest thing to do is just to replace the switch.
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2004 2.5 174
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GordonC
Not Quite Newbie Joined: 19 Jan 19 Location: Southampton Status: Offline Points: 24 |
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Thanks for your reply. I've read your post on doing it, sounds easy enough!!!. The annoying thing is not long ago the front was off and I replaced the gates couplings etc. Bloody annoying but that's life I suppose. Do you you think if I remove the air box there is enough room to remove the connector? .(would like to earth it and see if the light comes on just to confirm its faulty)
Cheers Gordon |
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T5 TDI
Vanorak Joined: 05 Nov 05 Status: Offline Points: 3687 |
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I don't think you will be able to get at the wire until you take the front and offside engine mountings off and raise the engine up a bit. Getting the wire off is quite awkward even with all the bits off!
I wrote a little manual about replacing the freewheels and couplings without taking the front off. It is possible. I know it's too late for you now but it starts with taking the vibration damper and front engine mounting off so it might be of some interest to you. https://www.dropbox.com/s/bk5cfzprdpj8zil/Alternator%20and%20AC%20freewheels%20and%20couplings%202.5%20engines.odt?dl=0 Let me know if you have any problems opening it. If you have access to VCDS you can get the dash instruments to self-test which would prove the dash LED works at least. https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=dzLAGwMuDIg
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2004 2.5 174
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GordonC
Not Quite Newbie Joined: 19 Jan 19 Location: Southampton Status: Offline Points: 24 |
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Thanks for all your info. I haven't got access to vcds unfortunately. I can open your drop box no problem thanks. I will have a look tomorrow depending on weather and see what's what. Thanks again for your time. Cheers Gordon
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T5 TDI
Vanorak Joined: 05 Nov 05 Status: Offline Points: 3687 |
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et us know how it goes.
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2004 2.5 174
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GordonC
Not Quite Newbie Joined: 19 Jan 19 Location: Southampton Status: Offline Points: 24 |
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Well..... Took the aidbox off, managed to get the connector off without too much trouble. Your probably better than me at this so what's your opinion now. I have Battery voltage at connector, but if I earth it the light doesn't come on!!. Do you think the LED on the dash has had it or should I not be testing it like this? Should I bite the bullet and change the sensor anyway? Any help gratefully received...
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T5 TDI
Vanorak Joined: 05 Nov 05 Status: Offline Points: 3687 |
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I'm not sure about that test. That was always the test years ago with a single wire switch, but because it may be wired via the ECU it may be different. The dash certainly 'knows' that a warning light is on and can tell you that via diagnostics so maybe the old test isn't valid.
As a general rule with today's cars it doesn't pay to assume anything! Having said that, they are usually just a simple 'normally closed' switch. You can check it with a digital multimeter. With the oil switch wire disconnected and the meter set up for ohms (engine off) put the meter probes between the switch pole and body of the switch and you should see zero ohms (continuity). With the engine running it should change to infinity (open circuit) which will show up as 1, 1L, or OL (open loop) on the meter. So whether it is a normally open or normally closed switch you should see a difference as it changes state if the switch is working.
Edited by T5 TDI - 20 Jan 19 at 12:33 |
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2004 2.5 174
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GordonC
Not Quite Newbie Joined: 19 Jan 19 Location: Southampton Status: Offline Points: 24 |
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Yeah I am definitely old school!! If I can can get the probes in I will try that test. Bit tight though as well you know. Thanks
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GordonC
Not Quite Newbie Joined: 19 Jan 19 Location: Southampton Status: Offline Points: 24 |
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I couldn't get the probes in with any certainty so opted to change it. Piece of cake really with your guide. Why the hell you would take the front off for that god only knows. I didn't have to remove the damper. I just undid the 16mm bolts on the front mount and removed the lower section, removed the o/s mount jacked it up and out it came. Just hope that's all it is. Of to Mr Europarts tomorrow £6.00.Cant refit till Wednesday. Thanks for all you help and advice. Couldn't have done without you. Will let you know the outcome. Cheers Gordon
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GordonC
Not Quite Newbie Joined: 19 Jan 19 Location: Southampton Status: Offline Points: 24 |
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Switch changed, that didn't work. Still no light. I suppose the next step is finding someone that can test the dash. Deep joy
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T5 TDI
Vanorak Joined: 05 Nov 05 Status: Offline Points: 3687 |
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I believe even the very early vans use the CAN system for engine-related dash lights. Before you take the dash out it's worth getting a full scan of all of the controllers which might show if it's damaged CAN wiring rather than the dash itself. If you google your town + VCDS there are usually some users of registered versions of VCDS who will help out for beer money. Make sure to keep a copy and get them to clear the codes and see what comes back in case any are old uncleared codes from the past or someone randomly pulling wires off.
It's well worth getting a copy of a full scan anyway because then you will have the part numbers and codings of all of the individual controllers your van is equipped with (in case you need to replace and re-code any of them) plus any fault codes in those controllers. It should look like mine here- Monday,03,September,2018,16:15:10:20365 VCDS -- Windows Based VAG/VAS Emulator Running on Windows 10 x64 VCDS Version: 18.2.1.2 (x64) Data version: 20180518 DS287.1 www.Ross-Tech.com VIN: WV1ZZZ7HZ4H0**** License Plate: Mileage: 185760km-115425mi Repair Order: Scan -------------------------------------------------------------------------------- -------------------------------------------------------------------------------- Chassis Type: 7H (7H - VW Transporter/Multivan (2003 > 2010)) Scan: 01 02 03 08 09 0B 0D 15 16 17 18 19 1C 22 2D 37 45 46 47 56 57 6E 76 77 78 7D VIN: WV1ZZZ7HZ4H057714 Mileage: 185760km-115425miles ------------------------------------------------------------------------------- Address 01: Engine Labels: Redir Fail! Part No SW: 070 997 016 D HW: 028 101 073 3 Component: R5 2,5L EDC G000SG 7596 Revision: 12345678 Serial number: VWZ7Z0C8389072 Coding: 0001072 Shop #: WSC 00358 210 88557 VCID: 1B3123CAD9EA4D9CD2-515A No fault code found. Readiness: 0 0 0 X 1 ------------------------------------------------------------------------------- Address 03: ABS Brakes Labels: 7H0-907-37x-ASR-F.lbl Part No: 7H0 907 379 E Component: ASR FRONT MK25 0103 Coding: 0007205 Shop #: WSC 02756 785 00200 VCID: 3779DF7A450209FCD6-513C No fault code found. ------------------------------------------------------------------------------- Address 08: Auto HVAC Labels: Redir Fail! Part No: 7H0 820 045 R Component: CLIMA/AC 0202 Shop #: WSC 00000 000 00000 VCID: 3463E8765474E2E4F3-513C 1 Fault Found: 00819 - High Pressure Sensor (G65) 009 - Open or Short to Ground - Intermittent ------------------------------------------------------------------------------- Address 09: Cent. Elect. Labels:. 7H0-937-049.lbl Part No: 7H0 937 049 K Component: BORDNETZ SGVER 1.0 1901 Coding: 0000583 Shop #: WSC 02756 785 00200 VCID: 3A7FC64E7610149429-513C No fault code found. ------------------------------------------------------------------------------- Address 15: Airbags Labels: 6Q0-909-605-VW5.lbl Part No: 1C0 909 605 A Component: 3C AIRBAG VW51 0008 Coding: 13123 Shop #: WSC 02756 VCID: 224F1E2EAE807C5411-513C No fault code found. ------------------------------------------------------------------------------- Address 17: Instruments Labels: 7Hx-920-xxx-17.lbl Part No: 7H0 920 960 J Component: KOMBI+WEGFAHRSP VDO V01 Coding: 01412 Shop #: WSC 00000 VCID: 3361EB6A017AE5DCEA-513C WV1ZZZ7HZ4H057714 VWZ7Z0C8389072 No fault code found. ------------------------------------------------------------------------------- Address 19: CAN Gateway Labels: 6N0-909-901-19.lbl Part No: 6N0 909 901 Component: Gateway K<->CAN 0001 Coding: 00006 Shop #: WSC 02756 VCID: 70EB246630EC9EC4D7-513C No fault code found. ------------------------------------------------------------------------------- Address 46: Central Conv. Labels: 7H0-959-433.lbl Part No: 7H0 959 433 Component: Komfortgerát 0004 Coding: 00079 Shop #: WSC 02756 VCID: 70EB246630EC9EC4D7-4B18 Subsystem 1 - Part No: 7H2959802 Component: Tõrsteuer.FS KLO 0202 Subsystem 2 - Part No: 7H2959801 Component: Tõrsteuer.BF KLO 0202 No fault code found. End-------------------------(Elapsed Time: 06:38)-------------------------- -------------------------------------------------------------------------------- -------------------------------------------------------------------------------- Edited by T5 TDI - 23 Jan 19 at 16:40 |
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2004 2.5 174
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GordonC
Not Quite Newbie Joined: 19 Jan 19 Location: Southampton Status: Offline Points: 24 |
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Will do. Pain on the ass. I will do that tonight. Just hoping it's not a trip to the dreaded Mr VW
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T5 TDI
Vanorak Joined: 05 Nov 05 Status: Offline Points: 3687 |
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If you want to follow it yourself with a meter it looks like the oil pressure switch (single Black/yellow) wire goes from the switch up to the E-box under the battery joining a red 10 pin plug. From there it goes to the dash as part of a blue 32 pin plug. You have to take the battery out and the E-box is below that.
As a first step it's probably worth checking the E-box plugs for any corrosion on the pins first since it's a more straight forward job than taking the dash cluster out. Be very careful not to short across any pins while testing.
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2004 2.5 174
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GordonC
Not Quite Newbie Joined: 19 Jan 19 Location: Southampton Status: Offline Points: 24 |
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Thank you for your help. I will give that a look and let you know how I get on.
Cheers Gordon |
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GordonC
Not Quite Newbie Joined: 19 Jan 19 Location: Southampton Status: Offline Points: 24 |
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Without sticking my probes where they shouldn't be the wiring seems to be OK. No corrosion that I can see.Battery disconnected didn't want to risk a short and make matters worse. I have found someone who can make the dash self test with vcds (allegedly!) next week. I have also emailed a local company that repair dash clusters to see if they can help. (I was tempted for a second to stick voltage into the dash cluster, but thought against it) So we shall see what next week brings.
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T5 TDI
Vanorak Joined: 05 Nov 05 Status: Offline Points: 3687 |
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Let us know how it goes. I'm sure your guy knows but he just needs to select 'Instruments' (17) then 'Output tests' (03) then 'Start'. If you want to repeat the test you might have to switch the ign off and on again before it allow it.
Don't forget to get your full scan, he can email it to you as a file. You can't use the 'Auto Scan' function on vehicles without a full CAN system so he will have to manually select 'Transporter 7H 7J' from the pull down menu.
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2004 2.5 174
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GordonC
Not Quite Newbie Joined: 19 Jan 19 Location: Southampton Status: Offline Points: 24 |
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Thanks for that, I will let him know.
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GordonC
Not Quite Newbie Joined: 19 Jan 19 Location: Southampton Status: Offline Points: 24 |
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So that was an interesting few days. The self test was done using a Snap-On code reader.(It was free) Everything in the dash worked except for the oil light. I then took the cluster to Cartronix for them to look at. Apparently the cluster has lost its code which makes it unrepairable!. They said the best thing to do was to get a second hand one and get it coded. Not going to do that. Too expensive just for an oil light. I'm thinking of, A-using the sensor and retrofitting an(old fashioned ) oil light on the dash. B-fitting an oil gauge. C-Ignoring it. D-Selling it as a last resort.(reluctant as it's only done 73000 miles) Any thoughts gratefully received and thanks for all your input just need to decide where I go from here. Cheers Gordon
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T5 TDI
Vanorak Joined: 05 Nov 05 Status: Offline Points: 3687 |
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Not sure what they mean by 'code'. The only code I know about is the immobilizer code (a 4 digit code on yours).
That sensor isn't very sophisticated on the earlier vans. When you look at what VCDS shows as coming from it, it just says 'Oil Pressure' Range- 'OK' or 'Not OK'. You could go for something that plugs into to the diagnostic socket plus a screen. I have no experience of them but there is a current thread here- https://www.vwt4forum.co.uk/showthread.php?p=6450591#post6450591
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