The Brick-yard Homepage Brickwerks
Forum Home Forum Home > T5 Section > T5 Chat
  New Posts New Posts RSS Feed - T5 2.5 Alternator removal
  FAQ FAQ  Forum Search   Events   Register Register  Login Login

T5 2.5 Alternator removal

 Post Reply Post Reply
Author
Message
upaladder View Drop Down
Newbie
Newbie


Joined: 11 Mar 11
Status: Offline
Points: 9
Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote upaladder Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Topic: T5 2.5 Alternator removal
    Posted: 28 Jan 19 at 14:31
Hi all, I have a problem,

5 Weeks ago, my 2009 130hp, 2.5, 5 cylinder T5 developed a charging fault, so I took the bumper off, I slackened off the radiator assembly and moved it all forwards so I could get behind there and investigate, I found the brush pack worn out in the alternator so I replaced that, gave the slip ring a clean up best I could and put back together,  all was well until Saturday just gone, the red battery light came back on and intermittently charging was found as shown by voltmeter on battery.

So today, back off with the bumper and the rest of the gubbins to check the brushes, the brushes were black and looked to have been arcing on the slip ring, so the brushes were cleaned as was the slip ring, its now charging again on the most part but I am suspecting the slip ring is shot. 

I don't really want spend a shed load of cash on my 300,000 mile T5 as at the end of February I have a new 170ps Crafter replacing my beloved T5.

So, I am left in this position, I need 5 weeks out of my van, tomorrow I plan to remove the bumper yet again, remove radiator and any other gubbins in the way and pull the alternator off, and this is where I have a few questions,

Do I need a special tool of some description to deal with the gates coupling and re-alignment? I think I read somewhere that if the alternator is left on the bracket it doesn't need re-alignment, can I even change the slip ring without removing the alternator from the bracket?

Does the coupling just slide off once the alternators loose?

Is there a method of removing the slip ring, it looks like it's pressed onto the shaft.


Any thoughts or advice available?
Thanks.












Back to Top
T5 TDI View Drop Down
Vanorak
Vanorak
Avatar

Joined: 05 Nov 05
Status: Offline
Points: 3441
Post Options Post Options   Thanks (1) Thanks(1)   Quote T5 TDI Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 28 Jan 19 at 22:17
You could go for second hand if you only need it for 5 weeks (and you don't mind doing it all again if it doesn't work!)  This ebay one https://www.ebay.co.uk/i/303022221685?rt=nc&_trkparms=aid%3D222007%26algo%3DSIM.MBE%26ao%3D2%26asc%3D20160908110712%26meid%3D82b7458e208f49cfbeb8a0ce9b89f88a%26pid%3D100677%26rk%3D12%26rkt%3D30%26sd%3D153068119158%26itm%3D303022221685has the bracket but most of the new alternators don't.  The manual insists you have to take them off together but when you look at the bracket on it's own it doesn't look like it's been made to be adjustable and it seems the aftermarket agrees. Ermm

I don't think you can replace the slip ring yourself.  The coupling just pulls off by hand by the way.  Don't forget if you buy new or second hand make sure the pulley/freewheel comes with it (or factor in £35 ish plus a special tool) and also check that it's not seized, you should be able to feel it 'giving' slightly as you spin the alternator quickly.  There are a couple of different makes and some different amps ratings so you will have to work out the correct one from your old unit. 


Edited by T5 TDI - 28 Jan 19 at 22:23
2004 2.5 174
Back to Top
upaladder View Drop Down
Newbie
Newbie


Joined: 11 Mar 11
Status: Offline
Points: 9
Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote upaladder Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 29 Jan 19 at 09:13
Hi, thanks for the pointers, I’ll update a bit later with my findings, I currently have the bumper off, intercooler off and just in the process of reclaiming the refrigerant for the air con, as luck would have it I’m a refrigeration guy by trade dealing with refrigerated vehicles so the gas side of things is kinda like my gravy if you like. Updates later, cheers.
Back to Top
upaladder View Drop Down
Newbie
Newbie


Joined: 11 Mar 11
Status: Offline
Points: 9
Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote upaladder Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 29 Jan 19 at 16:00
Just thought id update on my progress, the job was easier than I was expecting, with the radiator, ac condenser, intercooler and bits all off and out the way the job of removing the alternator was a breeze, once the front engine mount was off it was just three spline bolts to undo the alternator bracket and the gates coupling just slid off and i can confirm it was the slip ring well and truly worn out, almost 300,000 miles on the original alternator isnt bad at all, I bit the bullet and have got a recon alternator coming in for tomorrow for reassembly, I was planning on just changing the slip ring but my soldering iron didnt get anywhere near hot enough to unsolder a few of the connections.


Back to Top
2011van View Drop Down
Newbie
Newbie
Avatar

Joined: 18 Jul 19
Location: AU
Status: Offline
Points: 7
Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote 2011van Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 18 Jul 19 at 11:17
Hi Upaladder

I was reading your post about the alternator removal. I attempted this today on my 2011 van and thought I'd struck a disaster (and maybe I still have) when I undid the refrigerant pipes (not knowing what they were at the time) and the refrigerant fluid spat out everywhere.

Question 1.
Anyway it seems you found the job quite easy and I was wondering if you could tell me about the final step in actually getting the alternator out. I've removed the 2 long bolts holding the alternator in and disconnected the cables but still can't get it to budge. It still has the belt attached to the alternator spindle and can't work out how to get the belt off as it is under tension.

Question 2.
Regarding the refrigerant fluid that I stupidly let out....you said you reclaimed your AC fluid....because I loosened those 2 refrigerant pipes mine just spat out everywhere and drained itself....what is the process of refilling (probably to be done by a pro like yourself). If I don't refill the fluid straight away and just reassemble everything without refilled the fluid will that be ok? I.E. I would get it refilled at a later stage. 

 Thanks very much for your help.


Back to Top
T5 TDI View Drop Down
Vanorak
Vanorak
Avatar

Joined: 05 Nov 05
Status: Offline
Points: 3441
Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote T5 TDI Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 18 Jul 19 at 13:39
Your van is different 2011van.  Your name provides the clue!  All diesel vans after 2010 have the 2.0 common rail engine.  Upaladder's van is the 2.5 which doesn't have an alternator belt (or a cam belt).

I can't remember on the 2.0 but on most VW's the belt tensioner is spring loaded automatic tensioner.  If you look at the pulleys you should see that it has a bolt in the centre it's usually 15mm.  (Some tensioners depending on type have the bolt you need nearby but not in the centre of the pulley.)   Try turning this in each direction and see if the belt slackens.  Once you know the correct direction, it will take a long spanner and some pressure against the spring.  There are usually two holes that will line up to take a pin which holds the force of the spring back.  Once it is locked back you can remove the belt.  If you are re-using the old belt, mark the direction of travel and take pics of the routing around the various pulleys and idlers.

Watch your fingers, the spring is very powerful!  Make sure your pin is up to the job.

Re the A/C.  Once you have it bolted up again (you should replace the seal) you can get an A/C place to re-gas it for you.  

If you want to leave it for a bit, with no gas pressure the compressor will not engage so it can't run dry and be damaged (but don't switch it on anyway).  It's not a good idea to leave an A/C system not being run like that for too long as the compressor seals can be damaged by drying out.  So I would say get it gassed up and leak-tested.  Good luck!


Edited by T5 TDI - 18 Jul 19 at 13:43
2004 2.5 174
Back to Top
2011van View Drop Down
Newbie
Newbie
Avatar

Joined: 18 Jul 19
Location: AU
Status: Offline
Points: 7
Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote 2011van Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 18 Jul 19 at 22:18
Thanks so much for the awesome help T5 TDI. I’ll jump into that straight away. For future reference is there another way to get to the alternator on my van type without dealing with a ac fluid/gas messy disaster? I couldn’t work out any other way to peak back the radiator unit without doing that?
Thanks again...Tim
Back to Top
2011van View Drop Down
Newbie
Newbie
Avatar

Joined: 18 Jul 19
Location: AU
Status: Offline
Points: 7
Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote 2011van Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 18 Jul 19 at 22:22
Also regarding a pin...can I just use an appropriately sized bolt to use as pin and does it fit into a hole in there or something? I guess it might become clear when I do it..I’m going to have a go now.
Back to Top
T5 TDI View Drop Down
Vanorak
Vanorak
Avatar

Joined: 05 Nov 05
Status: Offline
Points: 3441
Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote T5 TDI Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 19 Jul 19 at 09:54
Hope it worked out if you did it!  Yes you can use use any metal pin of the right size (but not a soft metal like a spit in)  A drill bit would be fine if you can get it in there.  I can't remember what the 2.0 T5 tensioner is like, there are some that work slightly differently and there are some stretch belts with no tensioner that you cut off and just wind the new one on.  I didn't think VW went in for these but I'm out of date.

You should have been able to pull the front forwards without undoing the A/C pipes.  There are a couple of thick pins you can buy that screw into holes in the front panel to support the weight.  The rubber section of the A/C pipes should allow the slack.  You have to watch that the bottom coolant hose/radiator neck doesn't get tweaked.
2004 2.5 174
Back to Top
2011van View Drop Down
Newbie
Newbie
Avatar

Joined: 18 Jul 19
Location: AU
Status: Offline
Points: 7
Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote 2011van Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 20 Jul 19 at 00:29
thanks again
Yes I tried the pin and it all worked great and the new alternator is in and working. 

One more question is regarding refilling the coolant...I filled the expansion reservoir back up but the coolant level is sitting higher than max and it shouldn’t as less went in than was drained. I was wondering if there was an air bleeding process that I needed to follow. I watched a YouTube video and the guy just refilled it from empty and didn’t mention anything about bleeding. I started my van and ran it long enough to check that battery was coming up over 14v to make sure alt was doing it’s job now and it is but was afraid to run the van for longer than if there is an airlock in the coolant system. Thanks again for your help.
Back to Top
 Post Reply Post Reply
  Share Topic   

Forum Jump Forum Permissions View Drop Down

Forum Software by Web Wiz Forums® version 12.01
Copyright ©2001-2018 Web Wiz Ltd.

The WebThis site