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T3 Autosleeper low top - the return!

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mrhutch View Drop Down
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the ginger princess

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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote mrhutch Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 17 Sep 16 at 18:07
putting a metal one back on? Saw the fibreglass ones rhoen bulli do at bustfest - very good quality
T3 1981 Westy Vanagon - thinks lubricant is a fuel
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote fufflenarnia Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 17 Sep 16 at 18:15
So, on to why she is not pulling at low revs.

I have looked for the filter in the carb to see if it is blocked, but no filter - any ideas? It has a new folder by the tank. Do I need to strip the carb down, aledgedly it's already been done.
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote Bromy Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 17 Sep 16 at 21:23
I had no end of stuttering at low revs untill i pulled the carb apart, re built with brickwerks kit. Job jobbed 
"follow the masses, do the opposite"
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote fufflenarnia Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 17 Sep 16 at 21:55
Hutch, I'll put the metal one back on, it's in really good condition.

I want to get the body sorted and mechanics OK so we can use her in the spring, I'll probably whip the engine out next year and give it the full monty.

I'll order a rebuild kit and check for anything else, thanks Bromy.

Edited by fufflenarnia - 17 Sep 16 at 21:57
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote fufflenarnia Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 02 Jan 17 at 17:21
So having been distracted by redoing the dildo, its much bigger and has hard granite finish! I am now back on the van.

New distributor fitted along with 2 new pushrod tubes from brickwerks. I forgot to order rocker gaskets so new order placed.

Oil drain plug has stripped too, so m16 drain plug ordered from Brickwerks along with an m16 tap. Meanwhile the rocker covers have had a quick wire brush and paint.

Exhaust is blowing too, and some clamps are missing, so I may drop the engine and whip the exhaust off for a full investigation at some point.

Bodywork:
Both back corners had gone (despite the drivers side havin a new rear wing, they hadn't fixed the rust hole under the vent or the corner panel.

New corner ordered for the other side.

Small hole in the wheel arch - same as on the last one.


Done the sill under the sliding door too, excellent repair panel, cut down to retain most of the original sill, but all new rail for the seal.





I may need to sort out the wood floor, looks like Wheetabix!

Front panel to do, plus one in the wheel arch and at the bottom right of the sliding door opening.

I need to decide if I want to paint it myself, or shell out for someone else to do it - if I can find someone at the right price. Also need to do upholstery and curtains.

Edited by fufflenarnia - 02 Jan 17 at 17:24
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murdered the murderwagen

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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote rowlesy Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 02 Jan 17 at 19:48
whats the bus sat on fella? trying to figure it out?
UberFukz broke another!       sucky sucky five dollah!

always out numbered never out gunned!    RWS welding 07846 380 467 (worcs)
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote fufflenarnia Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 02 Jan 17 at 20:52
4 post lift.

The white bit is some left over mdf skirting from the dildo, its important to have a nice finish on the dildo. 4.2m long, can't fit it in the car to take it back! Must get round to cutting it in half and putting it in the car port.

Edited by fufflenarnia - 02 Jan 17 at 20:54
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote fufflenarnia Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 07 Jan 17 at 18:07
More progress today:

2 holes in nsr wheel arch done:

This one courtesy of an untreated screw I think:


One at the back of the sliding door:



NSR should be complete now, so OSR to do, a different make of panel from Brickwerks this time "oversize"?!?

Definitely not as good a fit as the Schofield one from Brickwerks for the other side. Perhaps oversize means "this one didn't come out right"!!!

Lots and lots of fettling and it's good enough:


Luckily the bits of rear roof rust courtesy of Autosleeper riveting the roof on through the rubber seal (so water is retained next to the screw and it rusts lots) aren't too far gone, one small hole to fix:




The bit under the sliding door runner isn't too bad either:


Now to turn it round and sort out behind the rear bumper. NSR window needs doing, that can wait.


Push rod tubes done along with an oil change and new plugs. Timing done.
Running poorly on cold start 🙁, so need to check a few bits.

Edited by fufflenarnia - 07 Jan 17 at 21:35
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote fufflenarnia Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 08 Jan 17 at 17:39
And more, on a roll!

Given her a good pressure wash so I can check the wheel arches etc, all very good.

Worked on the engine, it is only running on 3 cylinders.
Done a compression test, all 152 to 165 psi, except no 2 which is zero!
I took the rocker arms off and it comes up to 152psi, so double check everything is seated, set the tapits and guess what? Still zero!
Any ideas?.?

Gave up in that and turned the van round and worked on the front:
Yuck:


Barely need the grinder, you can sweep it out! This done with fingers only:


So a good run with 9" grinder, air chief to remove the spot welded steel at the bottom, and a bit more grinding and a go with the power file:


I have a repair panel from Brickwerks which looks good (bottom right of the photo), I guess I will have to drop the rad out to weld the back.
Checked behind the seal on the pop top at the front, and nothing terminal there which is great.
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote BeJay Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 09 Jan 17 at 10:25
  
If you're getting good compression without the valves operating but zero when the rocker arms are back on I can't see it being a head problem, then my first thought would be either a badly sticking valve or a weak/broken valve spring not closing one of the valves quickly enough when it should, thus allowing pressure to escape into a manifold on the compression stroke.
NIL ILLIGITIMUS CARBORUNDUM
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote fufflenarnia Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 15 Jan 17 at 21:15
Front done and thoroughly soaked in POR15.



I back flushed the radiator too and sorted any surface rust. I need to have a spray round with dintrol before the rad goes back in.

I will then turn the van back round and have a look at the hydraulic tappets on cylinder 2 and look at the window surrounds.

I haven't decided we ther to spray it myself or find a sensibly priced bodyshop, any suggestions round Redhill, Surrey welcome......
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