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Topic ClosedSubaru 2.2 install from Start to finish

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flightpath View Drop Down
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Direct Link To This Post Topic: Subaru 2.2 install from Start to finish
    Posted: 03 Apr 07 at 23:42

I have posted some of the pictures I took during the whole conversion process so that everyone has an idea how easy the Subaru conversion is.

Here is the freshly extracted 2.2 motor from the 130k mile Legacy.


I knew the motor was good as I drove the Car back from Rotherham to London keeping to the speed speed limit officer, all the way non stop and the motor didn't miss a beat.
I couldn't really see in the car why the Air Con didn't work but once it was out it became obvious.
It didn't matter anyway as the Aircon compressor was scrap.

 

At the same time we also extracted the whole wiring loom, just to be safe that I had all the wiring needed.This was a long job getting it out whole and taking care not to damage probably the most important part of the conversion.

This is where all the fun starts.

The strip down of the engine was only minor as I only replaced serviceable items due to the engine still having good compression in all cylinders for the age of the motor.

All the idlers and cam sprockets were in excellent condition so only oil seals, belts and gaskets needed to be replaced along with a good clean up.

Always remember to mark alignment positions before removing the belt.
Subaru make this really easy as they already mark everything including the new belt so its just a question of lining everything up.

The early EJ22 engine is a non interference type engine so if the cam shaft does rotate without the timing belt being on the valves will not hit the pistons.

Once the motor was all cleaned up I then started the rebuild process fitting the oil seals and gaskets.

I had a minor setback when I over torqued the automatic cambelt tesioner and stripped the thread.

This apperantly is quite a common problem and Subaru modified all later belt tesioners to overcome this problem, but as I was trying to keep the whole conversion budget to £2000 I helicoiled the unit and then reinstalled it.


Once the belt was fitted and all bolts torqued to the correct poundage's,I fitted the new belt covers from Subaru.

 

 

Next it was on to fitting the adaptor plate from Kennedy Engineering to the Engine block and Flex plate adaptor to the torque convertor in the gearbox.

Due to the higher revving of the Subaru Motor I removed the standard transmission oil cooler and fitted a larger external Transmission oil cooler from Small Car in the states.

Whilst I was doing all that I took time out to modify the wiring loom just to add a bit of variation.

 

Once I had mated the transmission with the motor it was time to fit the exhaust header and fabricate a silencer solution !!!!

 

So its almost there and ready for fitment I just needed to finish the loom.

Its time to remove the 2.1 wasserboxer from its long term home.

When Its removed you should be left with an engine bay that's looks something like this.



Once I had cleaned and tidied all the wiring and removed oil and dirt from the engine bay it was time to start the motor install.

 

And ready for bolt up on new engine bar from Kennedy Engineering.

I also replaced all the hosing with new silicon items from Think Automotive and cleaned all the water pipes from rubbish to help the cooling system ready for the big bleed.

After fitting the loom and filling with coolant, Transmission oil and engine oil the finished product looks like this.

After building up some oil pressure and checking all was good it was time to start.

It could have all ended on the turn of a key if the wiring was wrong, but luckily it fired up first time.

After it bled all the hydralic lifters it settled down to a lovely steady tick over @600 rpm.

I have now done over 500 miles on the conversion and love it, should have done it when I got the van.

Next on the list is to hook up the cruise control to the existing VW cruise control vaccume pump.

T.B.C



Edited by flightpath
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Direct Link To This Post Posted: 03 Apr 07 at 23:55
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Direct Link To This Post Posted: 04 Apr 07 at 09:17
excellent...brilliant write up fella.

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Direct Link To This Post Posted: 04 Apr 07 at 12:46

Excellentay

I bet Paul(rogerthecat)wished his had been done so well.

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Direct Link To This Post Posted: 04 Apr 07 at 13:21
Well done and interesting as I am just starting down that road. Doing all the cleaning jobs this weekend and possibly fitting the engine. Taking my time as I want this to be good job.
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Direct Link To This Post Posted: 04 Apr 07 at 18:02
nice to see  some time and thought has gone into this conversion ,  than just bolting it in covered in oil,  inspiration to others  well impressed,
looking for a b32 can anyone help me make it 3
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Direct Link To This Post Posted: 04 Apr 07 at 20:15
Thanks Guy's for the comments.

I hope it gives some inspiration everyone and to the DIY' ers like myself to have a go.
I'm sure If I had a blown 2.1 in the hole and wanted to put the van back on the road quick, I probably would have rushed the whole thing, but as it was the van worked fine on its original 2.1 so no rushing was needed.
I have treated the whole exercise as if the 2.1 had expired and I needed to replace the engine with another VW 2.1 Wasserboxer, and what the cost of replacing like for like would be.
I estimated approx £2000.00 for a replacement VW 2.1 so that was the budget for the conversion.
I'm going to break the golden rule and total the costs up hopefully fingers crossed I should be close to £2k
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Direct Link To This Post Posted: 04 Apr 07 at 21:34

Originally posted by Carrera Two Bus Carrera Two Bus wrote:

nice to see  some time and thought has gone into this conversion ,  than just bolting it in covered in oil,  inspiration to others  well impressed,

ditto: impressive work!! wish i had the time/patience! nice one sir!!

I drive: black 1.9 wbx '84 twinslider day van,on 15" compomotives, 60mm drop, tints, magnat/blaupunkt stereo system, and its my baby!!!
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Direct Link To This Post Posted: 05 Apr 07 at 20:13
well done that man 

quote I bet Paul(rogerthecat)wished his had been done so well.  quote


snigger


Edited by Pigboy
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Direct Link To This Post Posted: 05 Apr 07 at 22:39
Nice, sure is pritty. Clap
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Direct Link To This Post Posted: 06 Apr 07 at 13:49

 

is the old 2.1 unit for sale? as i sounds to be good..

looks a tidy conversion.. 

WHY T3's.... because they are just so adictive, and having one just aint enough
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Direct Link To This Post Posted: 10 Apr 07 at 21:08
Sorry the Original 2.1 has been sold.
Maybe a Subaru Engine could fit in the hole better ?
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Direct Link To This Post Posted: 11 Apr 07 at 01:37

Tip top job,

Been as the original engine has gone can i buy some of that
Persil!

I have BUBBLE the '85B 1.9DF (currently a DG!) WBX Camper. 29 Yrs Young. Tis Tracie's V Bubble U.
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Direct Link To This Post Posted: 11 Apr 07 at 15:24

Well done! That is a great guide and the end results look fantastic.

I have a couple of questions if you don't mind...

What sort of m.p.g. are you getting from the new engine?

What difference did it make to your insurance as this has quite a bit more power than the 2.1?

Richard

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Direct Link To This Post Posted: 11 Apr 07 at 19:43
I think on average @ 65-70mph I'm presently getting a return of  5-7 mpg more than the 2.1, which isn't bad considering the increase in power.
As far as the insurance goes I have just renewed it and it only increased by £50 with the engine declared, so not as steep as people may think.
I did get a quote for my insurance last year before I embarked on the conversion, so i was fully prepared.
I also wanted to budget the insurance increase into the total conversion spend as I expected an insurance increase.
Even though there is a power increase its still not a racing car, so no speed records will be broken this time!
It will interesting to see what Mr Bricolage's insurance premium will be as he is putting the 2.0 Subaru motor, or even if there is any increase at all.
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Direct Link To This Post Posted: 12 Apr 07 at 09:57
Haven't got round to calling the insurance people yet. I'm with Adrian Flux and I did call them about a year ago and it wasn't a big hike, I can't really remember now. All they wanted was an engineers report and some pictures.
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Direct Link To This Post Posted: 12 Apr 07 at 19:24
Hmm, Volksworld insurance didn't want pictures or an Engineers report as no structural changes had or were going to be made.
Interesting how the insurance company's make it up as they go along!
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Direct Link To This Post Posted: 13 Apr 07 at 00:23
Flux told me that as long as mine was non turbo'd, the insurance wouldn't change and no engineers report needed, i have got the upgraded brakes reported to them already though. Top write up buddy good for inspiration - as you'll probably see on here, my motors nearly ready but with slightly different conversion parts. Was the sump a straight forward chop ?, baffles ?, i was going to try to add the extra capacity back on at the front ?.

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Direct Link To This Post Posted: 13 Apr 07 at 23:00
The sump was a straight forward chop with 3 inches removed and the pick up pipe shortened accordingly.
The baffles have also been removed.
I have always been a little dubious regarding the chopped sump and removal of the baffles, but I have researched them extensively and have found no information that engines have failed due to Oil starvation or any fault caused by the chopped sumps.
It also seems like the majority of our American cousins have syncros and regularly go off road up and down all sorts of weird angles and gradients and still no information of failure due to lack of oil.
I do believe that you can buy off the shelf a new cast alloy sump with increased capacity and baffles from a guy in Germany but, I have not checked that one out yet.
I will be adding and additional oil cooler to help increase oil capacity, even though all the information says that I probably don't need one.
Well it can only help.

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Direct Link To This Post Posted: 15 Apr 07 at 10:42
The alloy sump that you mention only fits beetles or so Mr Jones tells me. Also I was looking at the design of it and it has vertical baffles in it. Modern engines nowadays use horizontal baffles and this is better at stopping oil surge. Vertical baffles hold the oil for so long and then it spills over.
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