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Stuck cylinder head

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Robert View Drop Down
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    Posted: 28 Feb 17 at 22:16
I bought MX51LRU VW LT35 2001/2 ex-refrigerator van now a tipper with a bad head gasket on the 2.3 Merc petrol (with gas conversion) engine. I have taken the head bolts out and other bolts but it seems to be stuck down tight like it is glued on. What am I missing? I jacked the offside front corner up and put a prop under the head and lowered the truck but it won't shift. The exhaust manifold is off. The inlet manifold still on. Any ideas appreciated. It is a long time since I took a head off and I don't have any experience of Mercedes. The timing sprocket wheels are off so it is not that holding it down. It has had engine sealant in it and maybe that is acting like glue, but I find that hard to believe. The two front bolts are out from inside the chaincase. The camshafts are still in.
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AndyT View Drop Down
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote AndyT Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 01 Mar 17 at 15:50
Dunno if this is the same engine, but if so it seems to be a decent guide to the job.

http://mercedes-190.co.uk/topic/6721651/1/

Probably best if you search Merc forums for this job mate, guessing you need a quick reply.

LT28 1979 2.0 Pampas Nevada Camper LPG 93K, 1980 T3 Aircooled Camper, 98K
1994 RRC 3.9 LPG 120k , 1997 Disco V8i 158k miles

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Robert View Drop Down
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote Robert Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 01 Mar 17 at 21:47
Thanks AndyT. I will take a look at that, but after trying again today to get the head off and breaking two tools and bending another, I have thought up a way to loosen the little B. I will connect my pressure washer to a spark plug hole and pressure it off. It must have had Araldite as a sealer or something stupid. Getting the bits to make a proper seal will be the trick. Maybe I could market them if it works.
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AndyT View Drop Down
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote AndyT Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 01 Mar 17 at 21:50
Never going to work.
160psi pressure washer is the same as  each cylinder running
LT28 1979 2.0 Pampas Nevada Camper LPG 93K, 1980 T3 Aircooled Camper, 98K
1994 RRC 3.9 LPG 120k , 1997 Disco V8i 158k miles

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byroad View Drop Down
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (1) Thanks(1)   Quote byroad Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 02 Mar 17 at 10:51
Agreed. if the attachment blows out of the plug hole(and it will)its gonna smack you in the gob,don't do it.Icant help but think that something mechanical is still hanging on i.e. oil pipe,if they were studs and not bolts studs can hang on(rust etc)Also feel somethings gonna break(bin there done that)Check under the manifold,could just be a hose.How many bolts have you removed? good luck 
old truckers don't die, they get a camper!
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Robert View Drop Down
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote Robert Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 02 Mar 17 at 20:06
Thanks, Byroad. I have not yet made an adaptor to get the pressure into the engine. A hose woul not hold it down this tight. It must be glued. Maybe it has a history of blowing head gaskets so they tried to prevent it this way, with epoxy glue or superglue or something. At the extreme, I would only use Wellseal. Normally I would only use grease. I have removed ten head bolts plus the two smaller ones at the front. Why do you think it will blow the adaptor out of the plughole? I don't see any reason it would do that in preference to lifting the head.
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote byroad Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 02 Mar 17 at 22:24
give it go then,stand well back,and wear your goggles. 
old truckers don't die, they get a camper!
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AndyT View Drop Down
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote AndyT Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 02 Mar 17 at 22:45
It's obvious you haven't read the guide I posted, and another member has warned you how dangerous this can be.
If you don't want to follow advice then please don't ask for help on this forum,  just do your own thing.

LT28 1979 2.0 Pampas Nevada Camper LPG 93K, 1980 T3 Aircooled Camper, 98K
1994 RRC 3.9 LPG 120k , 1997 Disco V8i 158k miles

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Robert View Drop Down
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote Robert Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 04 Mar 17 at 20:34
I have discovered two more bolts hidden under the chain guides. The tensioner side was easy to get out and the head moves now. But the other one needs the guide moving. There is a pin holding it in place with a thread inside it. I assume it needs a bolt screwing in with a locking nut on it to grip the pin to unscrew it. Is that correct? Do you know what size it is?
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Robert View Drop Down
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote Robert Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 05 Mar 17 at 15:32
I discovered that the dowel pin is a push fit and needs a special tool to remove it. I will get there in the end (by hook or by pressure washer).

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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote Robert Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 07 Mar 17 at 13:07
I made a tool to remove the dowel pin so I could get to the last bolt. So the head is now off and looks pretty good to just put a gasket on and put it all back together. Thanks for all your help.
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote AndyT Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 08 Mar 17 at 03:30
Before you put things back together you need to have the cylinder head pressure tested and checked for distortion. At the same time why not re-grind the valves and replace oil seals etc.
Maybe you will be lucky but if not you have the same works gain or a new cylinder head.
LT28 1979 2.0 Pampas Nevada Camper LPG 93K, 1980 T3 Aircooled Camper, 98K
1994 RRC 3.9 LPG 120k , 1997 Disco V8i 158k miles

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Robert View Drop Down
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote Robert Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 17 Mar 17 at 19:10
I have now refitted the cylinder head and tightened it down. All I need now is the info for timing the camshafts. Does anyone know? I can lock both shafts with the locating pins and just need to know the crank position. Is it 0 degrees (TDC) or so many degrees before or after TDC?
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote Robert Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 18 Mar 17 at 21:15
I found out it is 20 degrees after TDC. I think I got it right. It spins over quite nicely and puffs out smoke from the exhaust ports even though the plugs are not connected and there is no fuel in the engine.
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