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Rustoleum - Pro's Cons Experience etc

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mat_the_cat View Drop Down
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    Posted: 24 Jul 12 at 12:53
Originally posted by volition82 volition82 wrote:

You have to be really, really careful on edges as well.

Is that because of runs? Or thin coverage?
Mid engined, 6 cylinder, turbocharged 2 seater - it can only be a VW LT!
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote mat_the_cat Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 26 Jul 12 at 14:21
I'll be happy with a rollered finish - actually I'd be happy with just a uniform(ish!) colour!

What I'm planning is something along the lines of a Photoshop mock up I did:



I've been planning it a while but finally looking to get round to it now I have a recycling sandblaster to do the seams. I'm hoping one tin will do the bottom half completely but we'll see...


Edited by mat_the_cat - 10 Apr 13 at 10:34
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote AndyT Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 26 Jul 12 at 15:40
Guys,

As some of you know going to paint my campers in Rustoleum.
Sparked a fair bit of interest so  please post below with comments, questions etc.

Rustoleum they don't supply direct although you can ask for a colour chart as I have just done:-

sales@combicolor.com

A bit of browsing various forums and recommendations has led me here:-

http://www.lawson-his.co.uk/combicolor-c1070

Plan to order mine in the next week or so, purely to cover repairs on my T3 as I go.
Would be very happy to swap photos etc as we go.

Edit 30/7/12:- Additional Suppliers


http://www.rustoleum.co.uk/colourselect/1/19

Massive Colour Chart

http://www.rawlinspaints.com/Metal-Easy-Maintenance-Paint/c1_15/p23/Rust-Oleum-CombiColor-Gloss/product_info.html

Andy


Edited by AndyT - 30 Jul 12 at 12:00
LT28 1979 2.0 Pampas Nevada Camper LPG 93K, 1980 T3 A/C Camper 98K,1994 RRC 3.9 LPG 120k , 1998 Audi A6 Est 2.5 V6 diesel 127k

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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote volition82 Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 27 Jul 12 at 11:15
I've painted my van with rustoluem, in matt black.  I tried sanding it between coats to get a flat finish but due to the amount of work involved and the time scale I left it with the roller finish.  It leaves a slight stipple effect, which luckily for me quite suited the colour.
 
Andy has mentioned that he is going to try spraying it, which I have discussed with someone who has tried it, in matt black.  He said it didn't work out too well and he had to heavily thin it to get it to spray.  But I have no knowledge on his spraying ability and the quality of the equipment he was using.  I have seen it sprayed else where in blue and the photo looked ok and the person who posted didn't make any negative comments about it.
 
The one 2.5 litre can to do a van is a bit optimistic you might do a t3 the same colour with it but not a van of our size.  I used about one 2.5 litre can per coat but my van is a long wheel base, hightop, has a big fibreglass bumper and I did the insides of the doors and the top of the roof etc.
 
If your not going to sand it down you can still get a good even, roller line free finish with practice.  It takes a bit of getting used to going round corners etc, this is important even if your sanding it down between coats as it makes it easier.
 
My tips on doing it would be;
 
1) Practrice before you start
 
2) You have to wait at least 3 weeks between coats before sanding (I made this mistake!)
 
3) Don't roller in direct sunlight.  You might get away with it with a lighter colour but when I did mine with black it dried as I was rollering it.  That was a cold but sunny day in February.
 
4) Use good quality rollers with rounded ends, if you can find them.
 
5) Make sure you have enough paint mixed in one pot when you do the final coat otherwise you'll end up with slightly different colours.  I also made that mistake.
 
6) When sanding between coats be very careful on the edges due to thin coverage.  I hardly had to touch the edges and it went through to the base colour.
 
I got the dvd which was worth getting but unfortunately i've thrown it away otherwise I could of posted it on to somebody.  The paint I sourced from lawsons.  If you read up on it (huge post on club 80-90) you can see some people have done really good paint jobs with it.  The paint is very good and covers well but make no mistake with vans our size it is a lot of work if you want a good gloss finish.  I'd do it again if I left the roller finish but if I wanted a smooth gloss finish i'd spray it. 




Edited by volition82 - 30 Jul 12 at 10:24
1989 LT35 - 2.4 Lpg/Petrol - Converted To Camper
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote AndyT Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 27 Jul 12 at 11:23
Cans are 2.5L I think, so you might need 3 potentially.
Could be slight colour differences between batches, but if the top coat was all from the same tin I don't think it would matter. Point being you could buy the third tin later.
LT28 1979 2.0 Pampas Nevada Camper LPG 93K, 1980 T3 A/C Camper 98K,1994 RRC 3.9 LPG 120k , 1998 Audi A6 Est 2.5 V6 diesel 127k

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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote volition82 Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 27 Jul 12 at 11:47
Your right the tins are 2.5 litre not 5 litre as I mentioned, old age!
 
The colour difference I experienced was due to different amounts of thinners.  I did the van in sections, the roof, the back, the front, the sides, with the join lines being hidden by the seams (the rusty old things did come in handy!).  When I got to the last couple of sections I was running low on paint and I had to use a couple of different part used tins.  As I hadn't used an exact measurement of thinners more of 'that looks right' approach it gave the paint a slightly different colour.  Plus the paint becomes thicker once opened and re-used, which requires more thinners to get it to the right texture to roller.  Being black which is a strong colour I assume it made it more prone to different colour shades.
 
 
You have to change the rollers before they become to paint sodden/heavy otherwise you won't get a good finish.  As I was doing the van on my own and didn't have a helper at hand to supply me with new rollers/trays and due to the volume of work involved, sunlight etc it was easier to do the van in sections.  You have to keep on working the paint, you can't really leave it otherwise you end up with roller lines.  The roller lines are a nightmare to sand flat between coats and stand out if your leaving it.  They are best avoided.
 
The texture of the paint and roller changing is important to the finish but it's all explained in the dvd, it's a must buy if your considering doing it.


Edited by volition82 - 27 Jul 12 at 12:11
1989 LT35 - 2.4 Lpg/Petrol - Converted To Camper
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote mat_the_cat Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 27 Jul 12 at 12:23
Has anybody got (long term) experience of painting it over rust? I'll be blasting back to bare metal, and priming with cold galvanising solution, but was just curious really. I've never known anything get rid of rust completely, maybe contain it for a few years but that's all.
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote AndyT Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 27 Jul 12 at 14:48
Have a look on the 80-90 forum, topic on this is 6 years old and 150+ pages.
Reading it through myself slowly.
http://forum.club8090.co.uk/viewtopic.php?f=38&t=18751&start=60
LT28 1979 2.0 Pampas Nevada Camper LPG 93K, 1980 T3 A/C Camper 98K,1994 RRC 3.9 LPG 120k , 1998 Audi A6 Est 2.5 V6 diesel 127k

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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote volition82 Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 30 Jul 12 at 10:19
Originally posted by mat_the_cat mat_the_cat wrote:

Has anybody got (long term) experience of painting it over rust? I'll be blasting back to bare metal, and priming with cold galvanising solution, but was just curious really. I've never known anything get rid of rust completely, maybe contain it for a few years but that's all.
 
I painted the rear platform I made in it and rust has started to come through.  The steel was new but not shot blasted and I put three coats of combi colour on.  It took about one year to start coming through.  So, I would say a bit better than some but not a magic cure.
 
I painted some rust in 'rust bullet' which is ment to be a magic cure type paint but it has still some through that.  It is the best stuff I have used, but it's expensive and a nightmare to sand, like concrete!  Not sure if you have heard of it but 'Vactan' is also a good rust treatment.  I found 'dabbing' it on with a sponge brush rather than painting it on makes it easier to sand ready for paint.
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote AndyT Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 30 Jul 12 at 12:07
Use Dinitrol myself.

Vactan is phosphoric acid based and have read bad stuff about fumes when welding through it.
Not an issue if you are just painting over it.
You can also buy 40% Phosphoric Acid solution on fleabay by the gallon fairly cheap.
Needs washing off afterwards if painting as leaves a sticky residue. Think this is stronger than Vactan.

Bags of cheap sponge brushes from pound shops are ace for application, unless they dissolve of course!!.
LT28 1979 2.0 Pampas Nevada Camper LPG 93K, 1980 T3 A/C Camper 98K,1994 RRC 3.9 LPG 120k , 1998 Audi A6 Est 2.5 V6 diesel 127k

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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote tennis Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 30 Jul 12 at 12:36
Having just used Vactan, i have reservations on its ability long term
 
I found that if you re applied a few times you could peel the stuff off, IMO its Phosphoric acid  and PVA.
 
The best results  I obtained underneath were with a very thin coat of Vactan overpainted with some anti rust type stuff (bit like smooth hammerite) then stone chip then underseal
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote Silky Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 03 Aug 12 at 12:48
I rollered mine, a little impatiently I started it in Autumn and then spent many weekends waiting in frustration for the rain to stop so I could do a little bit more...

I experimented with a number of different consistencies of paint, the thinner consistency went on without so many bubbles and was much easier to 'work', I found it easier to layer a few thinner coats. I also found it useful to have a dry roller to hand to roll out the tiny bubbles, changing the roller over each time it became saturated.

My first few layers on my van were fabulous, bright and shiny, I made an error on the final coat and it actually lost a lot of sheen. This was one of two factors, or possibly a combination of the two : either the weather was a little damp/ cold (not unusual in Manchester), or it was a result of using a cheap thinner. I suspect it's more of the latter as the coat was a little patchy. Fortunately this does seem to be coming out when I sand it with a very fine sandpaper (2400 grit) and the shine's coming back.

The advantage of Rustoleum is if you don't like something, you can go over it and it's easy to touch up any minor scratches or marks. I'd be devastated if I paid a couple of grand to get a respray and then had any rust appear, on the truck it's easy and fairly cheap to sort it out.

The Club 80-90 thread is a mine of useful advice although it takes a few days to get through it all. 
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote AndyT Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 14 Aug 12 at 22:28
Just ordered some rusty stuff 5012 Blue and Satin White for the pop top +2L thinners from Rustoleum.co.uk. Free delivery but doesn't say when!!. Cost £80.

Soon (well hopefully) find out what it's like to use, will note temp/mix etc (by weight) and post pics in due course.
Rollers, wet & dry I bought from Lawsons, again will report on quality etc.

Bit stuck at the moment cos wire feed motor on mig is fubar, might have a part tomorrow, just hope it fixes it.
LT28 1979 2.0 Pampas Nevada Camper LPG 93K, 1980 T3 A/C Camper 98K,1994 RRC 3.9 LPG 120k , 1998 Audi A6 Est 2.5 V6 diesel 127k

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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote irishdanny Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 19 Sep 12 at 20:08
hi ,

just finished giving my bus 6 coats of red rustoleim .and it turned out very good as im no painter ,its on page 28 of the ur van section ,

i love the stuff ,its what i need at a price i can afford ,what more can i say,


cheers 
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote Beetroot Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 04 Nov 12 at 08:43
Hows it going Andy?
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote AndyT Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 04 Nov 12 at 13:01
Slowly!!

Eventually had to give up on the old mig and buy a new one which was painful, and a whole new experience. New machine is way more capable/complicated.

Job has turned into a pain in the wotsit but it's getting there now, removed the last of the hidden filler and fabricated new sections. Also had to have sections of the channel which holds the door seals made for me. Not expensive but hardly an important job for the fabrication shop, so had to wait. Until I had these couldn't fabricate the supporting structure....

Just about there now in terms of new steel but it's all got to be done together so it aligns correct, i.e. sliding door, C pillar and rear wing. Until all the bits are in place can't start re-assembly.

Wasn't happy with the first repair to the sliding door so chopped it out and started again, basically as I folded the skin over I managed to introduce a slight banana shape to the lower edge.
Door then shut onto the channel for the door seal, which when investigated showed that bearing in mind the camper is a keeper it needed replacing.

Anyway enough winging for now you get the idea, painting will happen as soon as it can but I'm not in a rush. Just priming as I go for now.
LT28 1979 2.0 Pampas Nevada Camper LPG 93K, 1980 T3 A/C Camper 98K,1994 RRC 3.9 LPG 120k , 1998 Audi A6 Est 2.5 V6 diesel 127k

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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote verbatim Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 19 Feb 13 at 20:16
I'll be starting the prep on out LT28 in the next week, seeing as we have had such glorious sunshine in the last couple of days looks like spring is here. We are both off work starting on Friday for two weeks so will have lots of time to get stuff sorted.

We are going to be painting either RAL5024 pastel blue which appears to be his original colour (God knows why Nu Venture changed it to what it is now it's awful) or the missus is hankering after RAL9010 to make her *think* she is in our old Joker ha :)

I am fully aware there is a 160 odd page post on 80-90 which I have read through, but would like to specifically hear from people who have painted their LT28s/31s/35s and upload some photos like Carrotmans which show a splendid transformation.

Thanks in advance. Will update here when we begin!
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote mat_the_cat Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 10 Apr 13 at 10:54
Good luck Chris! I've made a start on mine - first of all I needed to deal with any remaining rust:







This process was repeated several times! My aim wasn't to get a concours finish, so dents etc were left as they are. I just wanted something looking semi respectable and a uniform colour. I started the first side at the weekend...



...and got one coat on (although the photo makes the colour look a little strange - the light was fading).



I popped the rear light back on as rain was forecast, so have now borrowed the use of a barn so I can strip parts off properly without having to worry about the weather.





Although I can't be 100% I thinned down the first coat enough, it went on very easily and bubbles disappeared with a quick light (literally just the weight of the roller) going over. I may have got the mix spot on, but I guess I won't know until I get it wrong and have trouble applying it! Very little orange peel from the roller too, however I am using the satin finish which will be more forgiving than gloss. Generally, roller pressure needed to be less than I first thought, but very easy to get the hang of.

After I'd done the first side I had some left still in the tray, so (rightly or wrongly) tipped that back in the tin. I figured it would help with any solvent loss from evaporation while the tin was open.
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote LTCamper89 Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 10 Apr 13 at 16:10
Originally posted by mat_the_cat mat_the_cat wrote:

 .......so have now borrowed the use of a barn so I can strip parts off properly without having to worry about the weather.

Luxury. I used to dream of borrowing a barn.

Once Littl'un moves out I will be finding a way of raising the over-garage bedrooms a couple of feet so I can get the bus under cover.

Do not mention this to Dearly Beloved. Shhhh.Pinch
1989 LT28 2.4D    Saviour of 6Music, well one of them. Now playing http://www.bbc.co.uk/radio/player/bbc_6music

VW LT Camper not Cramper

....at least the roof is not rusting away....
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote mat_the_cat Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 11 Apr 13 at 15:32
It is handy, but I'm getting the use of it as a favour Unhappy There are some people in this world who you have absolutely no problem in owing a favour to, and those who you'd rather not, if you see what I mean...

I've spent about 2 hours so far just flatting down the panels to give a good key for the paint, and the end is almost in sight! I can't see me getting a coat of paint on this week though.
Mid engined, 6 cylinder, turbocharged 2 seater - it can only be a VW LT!
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