Removing the Fridge

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   Following my experiences getting the fridge out, I thought I should add this to the "Useful" threads as, while something similar is available if you do a Google search, the more info we have in one place here on the yard the better.
HOW TO REMOVE THE WESTFALIA FRIDGE (BASED ON '89 MODEL)

Once you know this is very easy. It can be done in 5-10 minutes.
REMEMBER TO TURN OFF THE GAS AT THE MAIN TAP AND LET THE GAS IN THE PIPES BURN OFF BY USING THE COOKER BURNERS FOR A FEW SECONDS.

1) Open the fridge door and lift it straight up and off the hinges.
2) Pull off the five plastic screw caps that are around the opening of the fridge.
3) Unscrew all the screws.
4) The front panel can now be removed by pulling the right edge forward and then sliding it to the right. The left edge has a lip that locates into the side wall so be careful you don't force it and break it. You can now see the edge of the fridge itself so get a pencil and mark where the edges are on the cupboard block so that you can line up the screw holes when you put it back.
5) Take out the draw under the sink and clear out anything you have in the cupboards on both sides of the fridge. You need access to the little storage space at the bottom left and the top space under the table.
6) If you look in the cupboard on the right there are two screws that go through the wall into the right side of the fridge. They were quite hard to find on mine as the heads had been covered up by the vinyl covering. When you find them take them out.
7) There are also two screws in the same position on the left of the fridge. There is one in the bottom cupboard and one in the top storage box. Take them out. Note that the left and right screws are different lengths for when you put them back.
8) Look in the right had cupboard. Pull out the brown mains plug (it's a two pin American type) and pull out the 12V plugs. There is one with three wires and a single one on its own.
9) There is a metal pipe (for the gas) leading through a 17mm connector into the top right of the fridge. Locate this and undo it. Once you've got it loose just pull it gently back to break the seal.
10) The fridge is now disconnected with the exception of the exhaust pipe.
11) On the left side of the cooker block is a metal grill held on with two screws under plastic caps which you should undo. If you look through here you will see a black pipe with a silver flexible pipe going to the wall of the van. This is the exhaust. NOTE: some models may just have a long silver pipe.
12) Go to the outside and undo all the screws holding the fridge vent onto the van. There are three holding the plastic cover and then three more holding a metal plate to the side of the van.
13) Go back inside the van and push the fridge back as far as you can to give some slack to the exhaust pipe. BE CAREFUL NOT TO PUSH TOO HARD OR TOO FAR. You don't want to damage anything on the back of the fridge. Just an inch or so is enough to give you some extra working space.
14) Outside again now to take the metal plate off the plate. According to other "how to" posts the pipe is supposed to have some screws holding it to the plate however there weren't any on my van. The pipe is a push fit but 20 years of heating and cooling means that it will probably be firmly stuck on. If pulling and twisting doesn't work try some gentle heat from a butane torch (CARE!!! - there is insulation very close to the vent and while it should be fire resistant you don't know what changes a previous owner might have made) - and watch your paint too. If still stuck try some WD40 (after it's cooled) and leave it for an hour or so. Failing all that you might have to cut it off but both the plate and the pipe are available from Gunzl in Germany (not cheap though!) so you can replace the damaged bits.
15) The fridge can now be taken out with a bit of fiddling. Take care not to catch anything important as you pull it out. You have to tip it back to clear all the cooker bits.

Servicing and cleaning the fridge is covered by other guides in this forum area so have a look at those. Putting the fridge back is the reverse of the above (obviously).

PLEASE NOTE THAT I HAVE A GAS TESTING TOOL SO I COULD MAKE SURE THE GAS WAS CONNECTED AGAIN CORRECTLY. PLEASE TAKE CARE IF YOU DON"T HAVE SOMETHING SIMILAR AND GET THE CONNECTOR CHECKED BY A PROFESSIONAL BEFORE USING.

This guide is based on my experience with my own van. Remember, you follow this guide at your own risk. As gas is involved please make sure you know what you are doing or get a qualified person to check.

Richard

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RichardN Members Profile Send Private Message Find Members Posts Add to Buddy List Yardie Joined: 25 Feb 07 Location: United Kingdom Status: Offline Points: 330	Post Options Post Reply Quote RichardN Report Post Thanks(0) Quote Reply Topic: Removing the Fridge Posted: 30 Apr 10 at 10:41
	Following my experiences getting the fridge out, I thought I should add this to the "Useful" threads as, while something similar is available if you do a Google search, the more info we have in one place here on the yard the better. HOW TO REMOVE THE WESTFALIA FRIDGE (BASED ON '89 MODEL) Once you know this is very easy. It can be done in 5-10 minutes. REMEMBER TO TURN OFF THE GAS AT THE MAIN TAP AND LET THE GAS IN THE PIPES BURN OFF BY USING THE COOKER BURNERS FOR A FEW SECONDS. 1) Open the fridge door and lift it straight up and off the hinges. 2) Pull off the five plastic screw caps that are around the opening of the fridge. 3) Unscrew all the screws. 4) The front panel can now be removed by pulling the right edge forward and then sliding it to the right. The left edge has a lip that locates into the side wall so be careful you don't force it and break it. You can now see the edge of the fridge itself so get a pencil and mark where the edges are on the cupboard block so that you can line up the screw holes when you put it back. 5) Take out the draw under the sink and clear out anything you have in the cupboards on both sides of the fridge. You need access to the little storage space at the bottom left and the top space under the table. 6) If you look in the cupboard on the right there are two screws that go through the wall into the right side of the fridge. They were quite hard to find on mine as the heads had been covered up by the vinyl covering. When you find them take them out. 7) There are also two screws in the same position on the left of the fridge. There is one in the bottom cupboard and one in the top storage box. Take them out. Note that the left and right screws are different lengths for when you put them back. 8) Look in the right had cupboard. Pull out the brown mains plug (it's a two pin American type) and pull out the 12V plugs. There is one with three wires and a single one on its own. 9) There is a metal pipe (for the gas) leading through a 17mm connector into the top right of the fridge. Locate this and undo it. Once you've got it loose just pull it gently back to break the seal. 10) The fridge is now disconnected with the exception of the exhaust pipe. 11) On the left side of the cooker block is a metal grill held on with two screws under plastic caps which you should undo. If you look through here you will see a black pipe with a silver flexible pipe going to the wall of the van. This is the exhaust. NOTE: some models may just have a long silver pipe. 12) Go to the outside and undo all the screws holding the fridge vent onto the van. There are three holding the plastic cover and then three more holding a metal plate to the side of the van. 13) Go back inside the van and push the fridge back as far as you can to give some slack to the exhaust pipe. BE CAREFUL NOT TO PUSH TOO HARD OR TOO FAR. You don't want to damage anything on the back of the fridge. Just an inch or so is enough to give you some extra working space. 14) Outside again now to take the metal plate off the plate. According to other "how to" posts the pipe is supposed to have some screws holding it to the plate however there weren't any on my van. The pipe is a push fit but 20 years of heating and cooling means that it will probably be firmly stuck on. If pulling and twisting doesn't work try some gentle heat from a butane torch (CARE!!! - there is insulation very close to the vent and while it should be fire resistant you don't know what changes a previous owner might have made) - and watch your paint too. If still stuck try some WD40 (after it's cooled) and leave it for an hour or so. Failing all that you might have to cut it off but both the plate and the pipe are available from Gunzl in Germany (not cheap though!) so you can replace the damaged bits. 15) The fridge can now be taken out with a bit of fiddling. Take care not to catch anything important as you pull it out. You have to tip it back to clear all the cooker bits. Servicing and cleaning the fridge is covered by other guides in this forum area so have a look at those. Putting the fridge back is the reverse of the above (obviously). PLEASE NOTE THAT I HAVE A GAS TESTING TOOL SO I COULD MAKE SURE THE GAS WAS CONNECTED AGAIN CORRECTLY. PLEASE TAKE CARE IF YOU DON"T HAVE SOMETHING SIMILAR AND GET THE CONNECTOR CHECKED BY A PROFESSIONAL BEFORE USING. This guide is based on my experience with my own van. Remember, you follow this guide at your own risk. As gas is involved please make sure you know what you are doing or get a qualified person to check. Richard

Joker_Club Members Profile Send Private Message Find Members Posts Add to Buddy List Vanorak Joined: 14 Sep 06 Location: Sunny Lancs Status: Offline Points: 3668	Post Options Post Reply Quote Joker_Club Report Post Thanks(0) Quote Reply Posted: 30 Apr 10 at 16:01
	Thanks Richard
	Why just do it, when you can over-do it !! 8 Gazillion BHP 1 .6TD `88 Westy Club Joker pop-top Sunny Lancs

jameshere Members Profile Send Private Message Find Members Posts Add to Buddy List Groupie Joined: 18 May 09 Location: Vancouver, B.C. Status: Offline Points: 55	Post Options Post Reply Quote jameshere Report Post Thanks(0) Quote Reply Posted: 01 May 10 at 07:41
	Removal and replacement of the 'fridge in my '82 Vanagon Westfalia was made far easier after I removed sbout 3/4" from the bottom edge of the vertical ply piece which sits just in front of and above the inlet/exhaust pipes; as built it was a real struggle and required considerable force to get the pipes past, and 'fridge out. James "82 Vanagon "94 Florida

tram-man Members Profile Send Private Message Find Members Posts Add to Buddy List Yardie Joined: 23 Aug 10 Location: Eindhoven NL Status: Offline Points: 768	Post Options Post Reply Quote tram-man Report Post Thanks(0) Quote Reply Posted: 07 May 12 at 21:05
	I used this guide to (almost) remove my fridge tonight. Like James mine is a 1982 and I can see exactly what James means. Not quite sure how I can get in the restricted area to cut the plywood vertical panel for extra clearance but without bending the pipes seriously it won't come out. And the pipes look very expensive to replace. Think I'll try a hacksaw blade from the outside tomorrow night. Thought I'd post some pics to show the problem; Here the fridge is pulled forward and tilted slightly. The bottom of the cast flue piece is bang against the bottom of the plywood. This is what you will need to clearance. Here's the view you can't see with you head with the fridge in the same position as above. The pipe is against the horizontal plywood plank underneath the burners. The only way I can see this coming free (without bending the metal flue pipes) is jacking the whole cupboard unit up about 5cm and inboard. Then move the fridge. Sorry pictures are not rotated correctly. Stuart
	'97 A4 AFN \| '60 T1 ratlook \| '57 Oval \| Dec '82 T3 Westfalia 1Y+DK+215/60x16

jameshere Members Profile Send Private Message Find Members Posts Add to Buddy List Groupie Joined: 18 May 09 Location: Vancouver, B.C. Status: Offline Points: 55	Post Options Post Reply Quote jameshere Report Post Thanks(0) Quote Reply Posted: 19 May 12 at 03:22
	Hi Tram-man, I read your post and hope that you were able to get your 'fridge out, and that my earlier post did not mislead you entirely; if so I apologise! Why? Because on re-reading mine I realised that I had made a foolish mistake by referring to a VERTICAL ply piece when I should have said HORIZONTAL . . . ie: the one beneath the stove unit. Your installation appears to be somewhat different to mine - oerhaps because mine is a ex.California (USA) model. Your flex. pipes seem to be very long, and hard up against the stove. What you refer to as the 'horizontal plywood plank' is what I cut back - with a jigsaw, after the 'fridge was out! I will add a couple of pix of my installation; the pipes are far less intrusive. It really appears as if yours could be shortened to advantage - maybe you did so! James .

tram-man Members Profile Send Private Message Find Members Posts Add to Buddy List Yardie Joined: 23 Aug 10 Location: Eindhoven NL Status: Offline Points: 768	Post Options Post Reply Quote tram-man Report Post Thanks(0) Quote Reply Posted: 19 May 12 at 12:25
	Hi James, Yes I got the fridge out. But I had to clearance the vertical rear wall so that the casting would clear. I used a long rotary burr with the pipes and casting still intact. On my fridge exhaust the casting/clamped using an M6 hex screw. Whilst I could undo it, the casting was seized and could not be removed. If I could have separated the 2 pipes from the casting then I would not have needed to clearance the rear wall (and the fridge would have been easier to remove). Fridge is an RM182A from a German 1982 Westy should it help someone else in the future. Stuart Edited by tram-man - 19 May 12 at 12:30
	'97 A4 AFN \| '60 T1 ratlook \| '57 Oval \| Dec '82 T3 Westfalia 1Y+DK+215/60x16