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Removing downpipe from turbo on jX

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akw View Drop Down
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    Posted: 12 Feb 18 at 00:54
Hiya,

I'm slowly gearing up to replace a downpipe on a JX.   Had a looksy under the van today and the turbo side looks pretty grim:

turbo down pipe

I doubt I'll be able to get a spanner on those nuts given how rusty they are.  The bracket looks like it may break some time soon on it's own...

Any ideas how to get that off?  I'm assuming I can't use heat so close to the turbo.

Any tips much appreciated!
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote Titus A Duxass Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 12 Feb 18 at 05:13
If you can get a socket or spanner to grip they most likely shear off (ask me how I know).
You can use heat near the turbo. The turbo itself gets very hot so run your motor before starting on the studs.
Bollocks to it all!!
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote ob1 Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 12 Feb 18 at 07:48
I’d remove the turbo and down pipe.

You’ll be needing to drill and replace those studs as well.
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akw View Drop Down
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote akw Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 12 Feb 18 at 22:48
Thanks.  Looks like it's gona be a fun one...

I've got a set of irwin grip nut removers I'm going to try + some heat, but I'm bracing myself for removing the lot.

Is it ok to use a blow torch on those studs or will this cook the oil and damage the turbo?
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote babylon by bus Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 12 Feb 18 at 23:19
When I replaced mine I carefully made vertical cuts on opposite faces of the nuts then worked them of with a chisel. before I fitted the new downpipe I ran a dienut down the studs to clean the threads.Quicker than snapping the studs trying to remove the bolts.
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote Titus A Duxass Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 13 Feb 18 at 05:15
We took the whole thing off, including the back box (the PO had welded the studs to the downpipe flange.
Once off we cut the nuts/weld off with a 1mm disc. 
Then welded nuts to the remaining stud ends and out they came, well three of them did we had to drill out the last one.

Neither the turbo or the oil suffered during the operation.

Bollocks to it all!!
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote akw Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 28 Feb 18 at 23:59
Can anyone tell me what size those nuts on the studs are?
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote Titus A Duxass Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 01 Mar 18 at 05:20
Pretty sure they were 13mm.
Bollocks to it all!!
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote akw Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 26 Mar 18 at 21:58
Finally some decent weather so managed to drag the pipes out


Snapped 3 out of 4 bolts when taking the turbo out...



Got the down pipe nuts off the turbo using a sharp chisel.  They were mushy and came off easily.  The exhaust manifold is wrapped as usual so took the lot to a machine shop to re-surface and get those bolts out.  Luckily I managed to get all the manifold studs out of the head.  One snapped, had to weld a nut to get it out.


Edited by akw - 26 Mar 18 at 22:05
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote akw Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 29 Mar 18 at 13:12
Just spoke to the machine shop folks.  They drilled out the 3 bolts but it was a pain and they had to go oversize.  They're going to install time-sert inserts to fix the threads so I can use stock bolts.

Does anyone have experience with those inserts in high temperature scenario?  I've read people use them for manifold studs repairs and spark plugs threads so I'm hoping it'll be ok?
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