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red hot exhaust manifold - lt40 2.4 petrol/lpg

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nooberdoober View Drop Down
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote nooberdoober Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 11 Jun 18 at 14:57
:) kind of you to say so dude :)

Not sure I'd recommend the process...I'm at my wits end with it all but I've just finished on the most beautiful sunny day so far this year. 

Having seen some of the guys that have installed V8s into their LTs...makes me wonder whether that might have been a better way to go. It's nice to have the original engine though. Perhaps one of the finest examples of the petrol Mk1 engines left in the world at this point.

If I'd realised how much of a ball ache it would be to get pistons and other bits for the petrol version of this engine I might have not taken it this far but I'm super proud of what I've achieved. I know that engine top to bottom.

I had a lot of very generous help from start to finish. I'd never have managed such a steep learning curve without it.

Here's it running up for the first time while I time it up and prepare to get it hot enough to add another scary 90 degree turn onto each of the head bolts.



With all parts and labour costs to include bunging my mate far less than he deserved for his expertise...
It must have come close to 3000squid.
I got me a 2.4 straight Six......and it's a soundin JUICY!

1984 LT40 2.4 petrol Coachbuilt Autotrail Motorhome
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote LTCamper89 Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 12 Jun 18 at 12:06
If you do not mind I will share this to FaceAche VoLT Group. I have mentioned the build a couple of times but they do like pictures really, and moving ones are better.LOL
1989 LT28 2.4D    Saviour of 6Music, well one of them. Now playing http://www.bbc.co.uk/radio/player/bbc_6music

VW LT Camper not Cramper

....at least the roof is not rusting away....
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote nooberdoober Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 12 Jun 18 at 12:54
yeah thats ok mate. you can scavenge what you like image and video-wise. i don't mind.
I got me a 2.4 straight Six......and it's a soundin JUICY!

1984 LT40 2.4 petrol Coachbuilt Autotrail Motorhome
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T3 Nev View Drop Down
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote T3 Nev Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 12 Jun 18 at 13:02
Looks and sounds great! Excellent work.
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote nooberdoober Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 12 Jun 18 at 13:43
:) Happy days!

Hey I wonder if anyone could help me understand something else thats been niggling regarding the oil warning light.

Today, I noticed when i gave it a quick warm up that for some reason, for the first time in as long as i could remember, the oil warning light actually went out. Wow!!! But then it popped back on again only to ruin my elation.

I spotted a bit of oil leaking down at the drivers side rear of the block just under the cylinder head and though oh shit...but then noticed that the leak actually seems to stem from the cam cover. I've not done this up very tight yet because I Know I've got to have it off again today or tmrw to tighten up the head bolts.

Could a 'loose' cam cover affect the oil pressure and thusly perhaps be a potential cause of oil warning light never going out?
I got me a 2.4 straight Six......and it's a soundin JUICY!

1984 LT40 2.4 petrol Coachbuilt Autotrail Motorhome
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T3 Nev View Drop Down
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote T3 Nev Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 12 Jun 18 at 13:54
Leaking tappet cover won't effect oil pressure. Try a new oil pressure switch, also check for loose wiring connections.
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote nooberdoober Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 12 Jun 18 at 14:17
i wonder then if it might be something to do with the terminal on the fusebox where the blue/black wire goes in from the switch and then out to the warning light. Ill have a look. 

Funny enough, the last thing i did yesterday was have a little fiddle with those wires. Perhaps the little fiddle made the connection work temporarily. 

The switch is actually a replacement OEM jobby from a few years ago. Like to think I wasn't sold a dud but lets face it.....quite possible. 

In terms of connections to the engine, Ive redone every single connection on the engine side of the fusebox with new booted crimp terminals and heat shrink sleeves, so am fairly certain that if its a connection thats dodgy the issue isn't on the engine side.
Cheers anyway Nev. I'll have a good rootle around.
I got me a 2.4 straight Six......and it's a soundin JUICY!

1984 LT40 2.4 petrol Coachbuilt Autotrail Motorhome
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote nooberdoober Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 13 Jun 18 at 23:20
Having marked the flywheel with degree markings it's become apparent that my ignition timing is way over advanced.

Book states that in the early petrol engines (its less specific on the 2.4 DL) the centrifugal advance should begin at 1100rpm-1500rpm 
at 2400rpm the advance should be 12 to 16 degrees
at 3400rpm the advance should be 23 to 27 degrees
at 4200rpm the advance should be 32 to 36 degrees max

Mine is way way higher. I think it was 45 degrees at 2000 rpm.

Ouch. Could I have found the cause of my RED HOT EXHAUST issues resulting in the valve clearances closing up and the rest......added to the fact that i run it on gas a lot.....

So, I'm looking at a way to tighten the little springs out on my distributor bob weights so that I can rebuild the dizzy and test it out in situ until i'm close to the correct advance otherwise this engine might well go the same way as its previous incarnation.

Does anyone know if 'ignition car parts' are capable of this kind of detail in their overhauls?

I got me a 2.4 straight Six......and it's a soundin JUICY!

1984 LT40 2.4 petrol Coachbuilt Autotrail Motorhome
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote T3 Nev Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 14 Jun 18 at 06:38
Get another dissy, don't use yours until its repaired.
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote nooberdoober Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 14 Jun 18 at 11:20
Yeah, the problem is that just 'getting another distributor' for these aint that easy.

I certainly wont use it until its sorted thats for sure. I've asked around to see if one is available second hand but you never know how knackered the advance might be in the replacement.

Seems there were 4 different distributors for the DL engine code over the years.

Mine is 073 905 205, but there were also 073 905 205B, 073 905 205E & 073 905 205AX.

I've found one in Germany that matches my part exactly but it looks shabby.

I'm going to take a chance on Ignition Car Parts in Basildon. I know they've not had great press from some of the lads on here but I spoke to him this morning and from the detail he went into, I reckon they could do a good job or reconditioning my one. We've already put electronic points on to mine so they can't bodge that up like they did on the dreamcatchers. Essentially I'll ask them to redo my springs and to fix me up with a new vacuum advance mechanism while they're at it
I got me a 2.4 straight Six......and it's a soundin JUICY!

1984 LT40 2.4 petrol Coachbuilt Autotrail Motorhome
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote LTCamper89 Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 14 Jun 18 at 12:10
The 'X' suffix usually indicates an exchange part.
I can post on FB for your distributor.
1989 LT28 2.4D    Saviour of 6Music, well one of them. Now playing http://www.bbc.co.uk/radio/player/bbc_6music

VW LT Camper not Cramper

....at least the roof is not rusting away....
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote nooberdoober Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 15 Jun 18 at 00:28
Originally posted by LTCamper89 LTCamper89 wrote:

The 'X' suffix usually indicates an exchange part.
I can post on FB for your distributor.

Thanks LT. Don't worry about it for now. I'll try and get some springs made. If that doesn't work I'll attempt to buy a 2nd hand dizzy off the german fleabay.

I'd love to know if any of the distributors listed for the DL will be suitable for my early version with the 2B6 carb.

Seems my vacuum port isn't producing enough vacuum to advance on start up now either. Any help figuring why that might be would be much appreciated. Might make a fresh gasket to go between the carb and the manifold tmrw to see if that improves it.

Ignition car parts are just utter crap and I wouldn't waste my energy ever again going down there again.
He took one look at it and said thats fine. No need to recondition that. Them springs are fine. Didn't even test them. Also told me i'd got the position of the electronic points wrong. Little does he know that he's selling parts that just aren't fit for purpose without modification.





I got me a 2.4 straight Six......and it's a soundin JUICY!

1984 LT40 2.4 petrol Coachbuilt Autotrail Motorhome
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote AndyT Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 15 Jun 18 at 01:21
LT28 1979 2.0 Pampas Nevada Camper LPG 93K, 1980 T3 A/C Camper 98K,1994 RRC 3.9 LPG 120k , 1998 Audi A6 Est 2.5 V6 diesel 127k

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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote T3 Nev Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 15 Jun 18 at 07:18
The position of the points is crucial as this will effect timing. Is your vacuum diaphragm ok? Connect a vacuum hose to the dissy and suck a vacuum. Does the points mounting plate move/advance? If not then you have a hole in the diaphragm.
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote robbydoo Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 15 Jun 18 at 07:55
Originally posted by nooberdoober nooberdoober wrote:

Having marked the flywheel with degree markings it's become apparent that my ignition timing is way over advanced.

Book states that in the early petrol engines (its less specific on the 2.4 DL) the centrifugal advance should begin at 1100rpm-1500rpm 
at 2400rpm the advance should be 12 to 16 degrees
at 3400rpm the advance should be 23 to 27 degrees
at 4200rpm the advance should be 32 to 36 degrees max

Mine is way way higher. I think it was 45 degrees at 2000 rpm.

Ouch. Could I have found the cause of my RED HOT EXHAUST issues resulting in the valve clearances closing up and the rest......added to the fact that i run it on gas a lot.....

So, I'm looking at a way to tighten the little springs out on my distributor bob weights so that I can rebuild the dizzy and test it out in situ until i'm close to the correct advance otherwise this engine might well go the same way as its previous incarnation.

Does anyone know if 'ignition car parts' are capable of this kind of detail in their overhauls?

 
Have you any idea what diesel timings are.........reason for asking, I have bought one of those pulse sensors that bolts to the injector pipe on  number one cylinder and attaches to a strobe. It appears that although my engine has been timed up with the usual pins and bars number one fires fuel in at 19 degrees before TDC which I am unsure if this is correct as it is lumpy as hell on start up and has to have the cold start pulled out most times for a couple of minutes or it smokes quite bad, after that fine........When I try to bring the timings to TDC by slackening the pully on the fuel pump side it runs even worse!!!..........baffled me a little...... (sorry for crashing your thread)
 
Rob
1985 LT40 2.4TD Coach built Pioneer Diamond
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote AndyT Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 15 Jun 18 at 09:03
Rob download the engine manual for the diesel engine, this is a petrol topic
LT28 1979 2.0 Pampas Nevada Camper LPG 93K, 1980 T3 A/C Camper 98K,1994 RRC 3.9 LPG 120k , 1998 Audi A6 Est 2.5 V6 diesel 127k

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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote nooberdoober Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 16 Jun 18 at 17:50
S'OK mate but no, I'm not sure of the diesel timings. My book is only for the petrol.
I got me a 2.4 straight Six......and it's a soundin JUICY!

1984 LT40 2.4 petrol Coachbuilt Autotrail Motorhome
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote nooberdoober Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 16 Jun 18 at 19:29
Originally posted by T3 Nev T3 Nev wrote:

The position of the points is crucial as this will effect timing. Is your vacuum diaphragm ok? Connect a vacuum hose to the dissy and suck a vacuum. Does the points mounting plate move/advance? If not then you have a hole in the diaphragm.

Thanks Nev. Yeah the vacuum works fine. I've tested and retested.

Regarding the position of the electronic points, Yeah we used a blog post from dreamcatcher who converted his to electronic points. All of his info was bang on and the factory setup for the points kit you get for this distributor is not correct (despite what the sellers tell you). It requires modification and we did it really well. I'm convinced of that.
I got me a 2.4 straight Six......and it's a soundin JUICY!

1984 LT40 2.4 petrol Coachbuilt Autotrail Motorhome
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote nooberdoober Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 16 Jun 18 at 19:58
OK. I've been down to Portsmouth and grabbed a distributor out of an early mk2 with part number 073 905 205C. This seems to work better. 

At tick-over of 850rpm, i've set my dizzy to TDC instead of BTDC. Higher compression and different piston profile. Maybe TDC mark is good for this?

Now, with vacuum hose on, revving up to 2000rpm but not under load, the advance is still high.

With vacuum off revving up to 2000rpm it is all of a sudden much closer to the correct timing of just over 10 degrees and under 15.

So at 2000rpm with out load, the vacuum is still pulling at its max. 

Now I need to test it under load with both vac hose attached and without. I'm hoping that at 2000rpm under load there should be very little vacuum and the hose can remain attached without risk of it advancing. That way, I'm certain with the dizzy fixed in this position, the machanical advance is functioning as the book says it should do.
I got me a 2.4 straight Six......and it's a soundin JUICY!

1984 LT40 2.4 petrol Coachbuilt Autotrail Motorhome
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote nooberdoober Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 16 Jun 18 at 20:59
OK so under load, the vacuum still advances the timing too much. The plate upon which the points are mounted can physically move with the vacuum maxed to 21 degrees at 2000rpm. Add that to the mechanical advance that moves the position of the rotor arm another 11 degrees at 2000rpm and you can begin to see whats happening. At 2000 rpm the timing with vac attached is in the 30+ degree mark.

Mechanical advance kicks in at roughly 1100rpm

Take the vacuum hose off and the timing at 2000 is roughly correct at 11+ degrees.

Here is the timing at various RPM under load with vacuum detached.

RPM       DEGREES ADVANCED

1500     5
2000     11
2500    17.5
3000    20
3500    25
4000    28

much closer and well within the tolerance specified in the book.
I got me a 2.4 straight Six......and it's a soundin JUICY!

1984 LT40 2.4 petrol Coachbuilt Autotrail Motorhome
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