red hot exhaust manifold - lt40 2.4 petrol/lpg |
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nooberdoober
Yardie Joined: 23 Apr 12 Location: Cambridgshire Status: Offline Points: 271 |
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Photobucket SUCKS!
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I got me a 2.4 straight Six......and it's a soundin JUICY!
1984 LT40 2.4 petrol Coachbuilt Autotrail Motorhome |
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Monster LT
Yardie Joined: 02 Jan 15 Status: Offline Points: 392 |
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Photobucket has been softly killing forums for a while now. Maybe they have shares in Faceache. Suprised your other photos are still there.
You can get a cheap pair of digital scales for peanuts online nowadays or see if a mate has some to borrow? I guess the welding will need to be kinda balanced - or doesn't it matter too much? Would the old rod not be weakened? Anyway, better change your name to 'semi-expert' or something more fitting now after this epic post. Edited by Monster LT - 30 Mar 18 at 22:32 |
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LT45-TD-ACL-intercooler-4x4-1993
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nooberdoober
Yardie Joined: 23 Apr 12 Location: Cambridgshire Status: Offline Points: 271 |
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All the original photos are sized correctly and are hosted by this forum but i used up my quota and so had to try photobucket as the alternative. They showed up for the 1st 24 hours but then just disappeared and were replaced by the photobucket default twoddle. I have a website, when i get back in the groove, ill host them myself. It feels a shame not to be able to show the final bits of the project.
Regarding the welding, i have mulled it over at length. Some seem to think silver soldering would be the best option because i could weigh the amount of solder prior to heating up the replacement rod and applying it. Problem with soldering though is that you have to get the rod super red hot first and i dont like the idea of any fractional warping that might occur as a result of the heating. Arc welding 3 or 4 beads on to the shaft of the rod on both sides in equal positions seems to me the least problematic option although even that might create potential warping. The replacement rod i got from portsmouth is out of a 1986/7 mk1 and is so absolutely similar to the old one that it was tempting just to fit it directly but on close inspection you can see some very slight differences in the casting. literally identical in every way though other some slight differences. Even came with old style connecting rod bolts. Having begun to work on the rod I bent, i can see how it might be possible to relieve it of the 4 thou ovality in the big end. Yes bending it is scary but its bloody tough stuff. We'll try that first, see how we go and if im not happy with the results, then ill weld onto the shaft of the new one. Wish it was heavier rather than lighter....then it would have been less problematic to perhaps shave some weight off of the milled pads on the big and little ends. I can literally find not a scrap of info anywhere about anyone adding weight to a light rod anywhere in the vastness of the internet. My mate reckons that for lycoming engines, they have a 14gram weight difference allowance that they are allowed to run with between con rods but that they always try to match them much closer than that....ie. 1-3 grams difference max. We are going to set to work on it again this afternoon and ill post updates and perhaps images too if i get my act together.
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I got me a 2.4 straight Six......and it's a soundin JUICY!
1984 LT40 2.4 petrol Coachbuilt Autotrail Motorhome |
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nooberdoober
Yardie Joined: 23 Apr 12 Location: Cambridgshire Status: Offline Points: 271 |
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Camcover painted beautifully by my good friend. All pitting gone. :)
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I got me a 2.4 straight Six......and it's a soundin JUICY!
1984 LT40 2.4 petrol Coachbuilt Autotrail Motorhome |
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nooberdoober
Yardie Joined: 23 Apr 12 Location: Cambridgshire Status: Offline Points: 271 |
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Here's a look at the two connecting rods. The original (u4) out of my '84 mk1 and the potential replacement (e7) '87 mk1. Other than the difference in the casting numbers, weight was the main concern:
Here's the remnants of the defect on the bent connecting rod cap after it's been coddled back into some sort of useable shape: Weighing original rod: weighing replacement rod: 17 grams less, so we looked at trying to find something that weighed 17 grams to get an idea of how much weld we'd need to add in order to match them. we found a nice fat steel washer that gave us an accurate idea of how much mass to add: and proceeded to weld a similar mass evenly distributed between big and little ends: it aint pretty but it's bang on in terms of weight and balance. So now I've got both the old and the replacement rods potentially usable and will test them on the crankshaft without installing the piston asap.
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I got me a 2.4 straight Six......and it's a soundin JUICY!
1984 LT40 2.4 petrol Coachbuilt Autotrail Motorhome |
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nooberdoober
Yardie Joined: 23 Apr 12 Location: Cambridgshire Status: Offline Points: 271 |
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Both rods bind slightly on the crank journal....still need work. The old one has gone in for a hone and think i will probably end up using that one. The welded rod....little end has closed up fractionally after the heat of the weld so it would need either a new bronze bushing or to have the existing bushing honed out, as the wrist pin binds...likewise the big end. Should have tried welding onto the shaft really...... :)
Been back at the head tonight too. We cut the exhaust seats down very very carefully to get close to the correct clearance utilizing the existing shims. Next up is to lap all of the valves in against their respective seats and perhaps take a tiny bit of the end of the intake valve stems to get the correct clearances for each of those. Not far off now: |
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I got me a 2.4 straight Six......and it's a soundin JUICY!
1984 LT40 2.4 petrol Coachbuilt Autotrail Motorhome |
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nooberdoober
Yardie Joined: 23 Apr 12 Location: Cambridgshire Status: Offline Points: 271 |
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Lapped each valves seat in against its valve last night.
unfinished Clearances measured in 0.() mm: Edited by nooberdoober - 03 Apr 18 at 19:09 |
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I got me a 2.4 straight Six......and it's a soundin JUICY!
1984 LT40 2.4 petrol Coachbuilt Autotrail Motorhome |
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robbydoo
Yardie Joined: 08 May 06 Location: South Yorkshire Status: Offline Points: 577 |
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Any progression nooberdoober?
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1985 LT40 2.4TD Coach built Pioneer Diamond
1983 1.9DG Autosleeper |
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nooberdoober
Yardie Joined: 23 Apr 12 Location: Cambridgshire Status: Offline Points: 271 |
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So, we've gone with the old con rod. After loads of adjustments, we've managed to get it very very close to perfect....which is about as good as it will get.
Here is the final bit of the work. We turned a bit of billet to exactly the correct diameter and clamped the con rod up to it with some thin shims inside to aid in the correction. I'm pretty happy with the results and nervous at the same time. I've had it back on the crank journal and it no longer binds with the bearings in but there is some very mellow polishing on certain points around the new shells which i'm just going to have to chance. These are the shells from just before we finalised the big end. These ones bound to the crank journal making it nearly impossible to turn the engine over. The ones that are back on have 75% less scuff than the ones pictured and they allow the crank to turn unhindered. Really they are close as dammit. Will just have to hold my breath....All this shit because I wasn't paying enough attention.... So with the last piston back in place and everything turning as it should, plenty of graphogen on the shells and piston rings, I stuck the nice clean oil pick up assembly back in place and got ready to stick the sump back on before I go on holiday: The sump is lovely and clean: Meanwhile the head has had its final loving and is bagged up and back here to be fitted. So clean you could eat your dinner off it. It's now had a dose of duck oil and wax to preserve it while i faff about painting some of the last bits and pieces. In order to use the existing shims and not add more time on to the already slow and expensive build we ground a very fractional amount off the end of any of the valves that needed further adjustment since the last time we ground the seats in: Stem seals back on to the new guides: some graphite grease and light oil mixture on the stems before installation: and ready to have the springs compressed and valves installed: Once its all back together it looks bloody sweet!: |
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I got me a 2.4 straight Six......and it's a soundin JUICY!
1984 LT40 2.4 petrol Coachbuilt Autotrail Motorhome |
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robbydoo
Yardie Joined: 08 May 06 Location: South Yorkshire Status: Offline Points: 577 |
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Good works fella
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1985 LT40 2.4TD Coach built Pioneer Diamond
1983 1.9DG Autosleeper |
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nooberdoober
Yardie Joined: 23 Apr 12 Location: Cambridgshire Status: Offline Points: 271 |
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Nice one RW. I now have it all back at my yard and cautiously going through the mass of "fairly" well organised nuts and bolts, trying to figure out what went where....It's not too bad. Thankfully i wasn't totally stoned when i pulled it apart last year and labelled most stuff quite well. :)
Today I had the engine mounts out of the hole to give them a good going over, a paint and to figure out whether to buy some decent window bonding sealant/adhesive to inject into any loose looking rubber areas. I don't trust them as they are and might as well after this marathon. Single cab pick upflex do a black one for this purpose i think for about 15squid a tube. Might grab that tmrw and figure out how to get it in between the rubber and the metal shroud. Here are the mounts looking a bit tidier: It's all so close now. I've stuck the right hand engine mounting arm back on, the water pump, dipstick, clutch kit, the timing belt and the nicely lacquered cover set: Hopefully the radiator downpipe bracket doesn't get in the way as i lift it in. Painted and lacquered the cam sprocket but not put it on yet as it has to go on after the head is back on because of the backplate thats fixed the the lump. Also put the fresh exhaust studs back in with a double nut and nipped em up tight with a spanner. Need to get some liquid exhaust gasket and some copper slip before i put the manifolds on: Cleaned up the old thermostat housing and gave it a lick of wheel trim silver that was laying around. Run out of lacquer. Tough luck: Cut and slotted some of the old head bolts as dowels for locating the head when it becomes time: Borrowed my mates clutch locating spindel thing to centralise the friction plate to the flywheel and pressure plate. Dowels on the flywheel, does anyone have any idea what these two are for? They appear to do bugger all: and finally had a little look to see how much clearance im going to have between valves fully open and top of piston just incase i snap a belt: I had the nead skimmed to its maximum a while back and the custom pistons have 1.5 mm extra crown height. Valve safe. Even without the gasket depth there is about 0.5 mm clearance just in case of catastrophe. With the head gasket that should come close to 1 mm or perhaps a touch more: So......Its the manifolds and the engine mounts still to play with and then its ready for the lifting eyes!!! Happy days!
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I got me a 2.4 straight Six......and it's a soundin JUICY!
1984 LT40 2.4 petrol Coachbuilt Autotrail Motorhome |
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nooberdoober
Yardie Joined: 23 Apr 12 Location: Cambridgshire Status: Offline Points: 271 |
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Manifolds back on and all looking very nice:
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I got me a 2.4 straight Six......and it's a soundin JUICY!
1984 LT40 2.4 petrol Coachbuilt Autotrail Motorhome |
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nooberdoober
Yardie Joined: 23 Apr 12 Location: Cambridgshire Status: Offline Points: 271 |
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I'm keen to get the valve positions correct on my head prior to installing it on the block.
Having had a look at some earlier postings on here regarding cam sprocket marks in relation to cam lobe/valve positions, i noticed that volition had quoted dreamcatcher as having written this: "The mark on the back of the camshaft toothed belt sprocket should be in line with the upper edge of rocker cover gasket." On mine, this seems to make sense if you follow those instructions, both the cam lobes on no1 point uniformly upward denoting both valves closed, with the exhaust valve next in line to open: Could anyone give me a nod and let me know if this configuration is correct? |
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I got me a 2.4 straight Six......and it's a soundin JUICY!
1984 LT40 2.4 petrol Coachbuilt Autotrail Motorhome |
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ob1
Yardie FOUND IT, IT WAS HIDING! Joined: 11 May 08 Status: Offline Points: 732 |
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Looks correct. It’s like that on the 4 cylinder 8v VW engines.
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nooberdoober
Yardie Joined: 23 Apr 12 Location: Cambridgshire Status: Offline Points: 271 |
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Thank you kindly!
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I got me a 2.4 straight Six......and it's a soundin JUICY!
1984 LT40 2.4 petrol Coachbuilt Autotrail Motorhome |
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nooberdoober
Yardie Joined: 23 Apr 12 Location: Cambridgshire Status: Offline Points: 271 |
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I had a good clean out of the bell housing today to give it a fresh start and learn how a clutch mechanism works. In washing all the years of gunk out I found these little blighters welded into the crap at the bottom of the housing, ensuring more work is needed before I can get the engine back in:
The plastic ball stud was actually still in its correct location on the splined stud but the sprung clip was in two bits in the muck at the bottom of the housing. Honestly, with my limited knowledge, I nearly dismissed it as crap that had some how found its way in there over the years but having done my bit of morning reading...I'm obviously glad I didn't. Here's a shot of the housing where I try to focus on the studs location: I presume the purpose of the broken retaining clip is to ensure the release arm stays located firmly to the bell-housing on that side. The splined stud onto which the plastic dome fixes has a kind of fixed washer that backs the little plastic dome once it's installed: I can only imagine that the 'atrocious' clutch judder that I used to experience if I operated the clutch badly has snapped this pin completely in half. When fitted properly, should the retaining clip have been clipped into the release arm only once the release arm has been fully pushed home onto the dome stud, allowing the clip to then lock behind the fixed washer part of the stud to hold the arm in place and stop the little plastic dome from coming free of its spline? Any reason why I couldn't try and manufacture my own retaining clip from some similarly gauged wire? |
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I got me a 2.4 straight Six......and it's a soundin JUICY!
1984 LT40 2.4 petrol Coachbuilt Autotrail Motorhome |
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AndyT
Moderator Group Joined: 16 May 08 Location: Ammanford Status: Offline Points: 2274 |
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Can give you one. Really gonna piss you off if it comes loose or breaks, it's a lot of work to get to it. Plenty of sites with exploded diagrams where you can get the part number. Then I'd get on the german ebay etc and see if you can get one. If you can't get the part then have a go at diy.
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LT28 1979 2.0 Pampas Nevada Camper LPG 93K, 1980 T3 A/C Camper 98K,1994 RRC 3.9 LPG 120k , 1998 Audi A6 Est 2.5 V6 diesel 127k
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nooberdoober
Yardie Joined: 23 Apr 12 Location: Cambridgshire Status: Offline Points: 271 |
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:) Thanks for that Andy. Yeah you probably right.
I have made one today out of a similar gauge but its material integrity is no where near that of the original. I tried snipping the old one with my pliers and it took a fair amount of pressure to cut it where my DIY version was half as strong. I'll try to temper it a bit and see if that does anything to help but I know I'm gonna have to go shopping. :)
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I got me a 2.4 straight Six......and it's a soundin JUICY!
1984 LT40 2.4 petrol Coachbuilt Autotrail Motorhome |
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nooberdoober
Yardie Joined: 23 Apr 12 Location: Cambridgshire Status: Offline Points: 271 |
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Well, I can find it under this part number all over the place: 015141721
The problem for me is no matter what way I look its another 10 days of twiddling my thumbs. I've just tried Pete down in Portsmouth. Meanwhile still contemplating the DIY job: |
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I got me a 2.4 straight Six......and it's a soundin JUICY!
1984 LT40 2.4 petrol Coachbuilt Autotrail Motorhome |
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AndyT
Moderator Group Joined: 16 May 08 Location: Ammanford Status: Offline Points: 2274 |
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LT28 1979 2.0 Pampas Nevada Camper LPG 93K, 1980 T3 A/C Camper 98K,1994 RRC 3.9 LPG 120k , 1998 Audi A6 Est 2.5 V6 diesel 127k
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