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Rear Brake Pressure Regulator/Booster

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mat_the_cat View Drop Down
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote mat_the_cat Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 16 Jul 13 at 16:43
What sort of price though?
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volition82 View Drop Down
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote volition82 Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 16 Jul 13 at 16:55
Steve has just emailed the details to me. £245 plus vat. In two minds on what to do. Contacted four companies about rebuilding it. Three said no. One said he might be able to but needs to see it. The cost would be around £80. Been given the details of another company but waiting to hear back. Not sure whats best to be honest. Well i know whats best but £300 is a lot of money!

Edited by volition82 - 16 Jul 13 at 16:58
1989 LT35 - 2.4 Lpg/Petrol - Converted To Camper
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote SteveSt Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 16 Jul 13 at 17:02
My ha-perth worth on the rebuild = have you established whether there is a service kit available?
I have not taken one apart but my guess is that there will be some seals in it which will have to be replaced.
In these situations it's the short cuts that cost more in the end.
that's probably worth less that a ha-penny!
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote rowiandasa Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 17 Jul 13 at 08:26
Might be worth trying this guy Peter, he also breaks LT's and seems to have lots of parts;


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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote volition82 Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 17 Jul 13 at 18:02
I tried the alfa place. He had one for £100 which he said looked like it had been replaced at some point. Plus £30 which was refundable when i returned mine. Which i thought was a bit odd for a scrap yard. Makes me think they can be re-conditioned.

I've bought another second hand one which i'll send off and see if it can be re-conditioned.

Edited by volition82 - 17 Jul 13 at 18:04
1989 LT35 - 2.4 Lpg/Petrol - Converted To Camper
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote mat_the_cat Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 18 Jul 13 at 10:08
This might be a job that I'll have to tackle sooner rather than later Unhappy As I may have mentioned, mine had an advisory on the MOT for being stiff - still moveable but less than it should be. With it being a camper he wasn't too bothered as the weight in it will be fairly constant and there were no problems with actual brake performance.

But I've recently re-piped most of the system after it failed on a flexi hose, and several bleed nipples have snapped off or crumbled to dust, including the one on the regulator. It's a job I'd been putting off for a while due to the state of them - I normally change the fluid every few years but previously I just wasn't in a position to buy new bits if I messed the job up.

Anyway, I've bled most of the system and got an MOT, but there is still air in there. I still need to replace one wheel cylinder as the nipple on that has gone, but if that doesn't cure the sponginess then there must be some trapped in the regulator.

So if I'm taking that off to drill and re-tap, I may as well have a crack at stripping it down. Certainly the fluid in the front calipers was fairly manky, and one was so full of sludge that no fluid escaped even when I completely removed the bleed nipple! Had to poke inside it while under pressure, then got a spurt.

I'd rather have a crack at stripping down a spare though, less pressure on me to get it back together!
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote volition82 Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 18 Jul 13 at 11:09
Thats similar to my reasons for doing the job.
 
I've got something weird going on with my back brakes.  The shoe part of my automatic handbrake/brake adjusters have rusted away.  I have been adjusting them manually when the pedal starts to go soft.  The first few times all was ok.  But the last couple of times I have had to adjust one side a lot more than the other.
 
It could be that the one side is adjusting it's self because the adjuster bar nut is loose enough to move under vibration (wishful thinking I know!).  The more likely cause is air in the system or possibly the regulator.
 
I didn't realise until reading the manual that the correct way to bleed the brakes was the rear cylinders then the regulator.  I've never bled the regulator.  To be completely honest when I replaced the rear wheel cylinders I completely forgot about it.  I've had a look at it and the regulator bleed nipple is more rust than anything else.  I live in the van so I can't risk trying to bleed it and the bloody thing snapping.  Even if I manage to bleed it at some point in the future it's going to cause problems with the mot.  I'd then be in the same position of being off the road for weeks trying to source a replacement.
 
The idea is to have a fully functioning new or re-conditioned unit ready and waiting to install with my new shoes and drums.  The calipers and discs are new so my braking system should then be trouble free for sometime to come.  That is until the master cyclinder or servo goes LOL


Edited by volition82 - 18 Jul 13 at 11:12
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote mat_the_cat Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 18 Jul 13 at 12:05
Originally posted by volition82 volition82 wrote:

I've never bled the regulator.  To be completely honest when I replaced the rear wheel cylinders I completely forgot about it.

That's made me feel more optimistic. I was getting quite despondent last night, which is most unlike me. It was just those bloody bleed nipples snapping off as if they were made of cheese! Out of the 7 on the system, only 3 came undone and they took hours of gentle persuasion.

I guess the advice in the manual is covering the possibility that everything could have air in, so bleeding the regulator might not be needed in real life. I think what's happened in my case is that the pipe from the cylinder has drained back when I replaced the flexi hose. The other possibility now I think about it could be perhaps the front calipers, as I was only able to renew the lower nipples. I'm hoping that no air is trapped in the upper part!
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote volition82 Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 18 Jul 13 at 14:16
I replaced the calipers and wheel cylinders at the same time and bled the whole system. I didnt have any real problems. Had to do a second quick bleed after the main one. The pedal went soft. Air must have been stuck and freed its self after driving it.

I havent had my brake pressures checked at a garage so they could well be equal. The van doesnt pull when braking. They certainly were ok when first done and for a long while after so i would say that you should be able to bleed it without touching the regulator.

I would bet your problem is the front calipers. I had to keep alternating between the top and bottom bleed nipples to get the air out. When i re bled them most of the air was in the calipers and i had to keeping switch between top and bottom nipples to clear it all. I would imagine its easy to get air caught in the middle of the caliper which is difficult to push one way or another.

Edited by volition82 - 18 Jul 13 at 14:19
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote LTCamper89 Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 18 Jul 13 at 17:23
Originally posted by mat_the_cat mat_the_cat wrote:


So if I'm taking that off to drill and re-tap, I may as well have a crack at stripping it down. 

I would not even consider drilling and tapping without it being in bits. There is far to much opportunity for a tiny, tiny piece of swarf to get where it will do the most damage.

?Are the lower bleed nipples on the calipers not just for draining? Admittedly, if the calipers have never been drained you could have decades old fluid in there, just being passed over by the new stuff coming in via the hose and out by the nipple.

Doing mine tomorrow, in the shade, under the van, with my awning out.
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote lorryloader Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 18 Jul 13 at 21:19
Glad you got sorted volition82, probably would have been to costly to send from here to U.K. anyway.
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote volition82 Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 18 Jul 13 at 21:45
Originally posted by lorryloader lorryloader wrote:

Glad you got sorted volition82, probably would have been to costly to send from here to U.K. anyway.


Thank you for the offer. I sent you a pm to let know I didn't need it. Just hope it can be re-conditioned now.
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote lorryloader Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 18 Jul 13 at 21:54
Yes got the pm thanks and read the updated post yes we all hope this is possible keep us posted cheers.
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote mat_the_cat Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 18 Jul 13 at 23:01
Originally posted by LTCamper89 LTCamper89 wrote:

?Are the lower bleed nipples on the calipers not just for draining

I think you're right, but I am/was hoping that no air would have got into the top half of the caliper when I changed the hoses. We shall see... Rather annoyingly I sold a brand new genuine VW caliper for £30 a few years ago, as I was desperate for the cash - my wife had lost her job and food/mortgage obviously came above spare parts!

Rightly or wrongly, I had thought any swarf from a drilled out nipple would be flushed out when bleeding (especially if the first spurt is minus nipple), so I wasn't that worried. I may give it a go on the calipers as I've had success once before.

Wheel cylinder should be here by the weekend, so I can replace that and at least completely bleed the rear end. If still no firm pedal then the front calipers have to be the next suspect.


Edited by mat_the_cat - 18 Jul 13 at 23:05
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote LTCamper89 Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 18 Jul 13 at 23:37
I was on for ages trying to get good feel at the pedal, but it passed the MOT and slowly went soft again. If I pump it once the braking is tremendously improved, so I know it is just a trapped air pocket, somewhere.

I now have a compressor so I do not have to foot pump an innertube up every five minutes.
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote mat_the_cat Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 23 Jul 13 at 09:43
More shiny parts but no improvement Cry

I've added the details to my blog type thread (here) rather than take this one off on tangent any more. Although it may be back on topic if I have to tackle the pressure regulator!
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote volition82 Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 07 Aug 13 at 11:10
Just thought I would post a link to another thread about the pressure regulator to tie the two together for anybody searching in the future.
 
 
The following two links provided by LTCamper89 give more information on the regulator including one being stripped down.
 
 
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote volition82 Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 01 Sep 13 at 22:00
Well it's bad news.  They can't re-con the pressure regulator.  I've been trying to buy a new one but it seems there are none available anywhere.
 
My vans due for mot the end of October so I'm going to see if I get through this one ok.  I'm lucky my circumstances have changed so I can be without the van for a while.  At a loss on what to do long term though.  I guess I'll have to have a go at re-conditioning it myself via the link LTCamper89 found.
 
I've only had a quick look at it and I found it very hard to follow with the Google translation into English.  I don't suppose anybody on here can speak German or knows anybody who can translate the page for me?  It seems to be a fairly straight forward job if I could fully understand what's going on.  I could do a step by step thread then to make it easier for others.  From the amount of posts about it, it seems to be something most of us will have to do at some point if we are going to keep our vans for any length of time.
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote lorryloader Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 01 Sep 13 at 22:19
Did you or any one else try seekpart 24 ?
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote volition82 Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 01 Sep 13 at 22:36

Aren't they for second hand parts only?  I've bought a spare second hand one but your in the same boat.  You don't know how good it is or how long it will last.  I don't fancy spending just over £300 on a new one but if you could get one it would be the best option.

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