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rear brake compensator

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MostlyMonki View Drop Down
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote MostlyMonki Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Topic: rear brake compensator
    Posted: 02 Oct 08 at 13:52
anyone know where i can get on eof these for a decent price (for a '95 lt35)? vw want about £100! 
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Butternut boy View Drop Down
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote Butternut boy Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 02 Oct 08 at 17:02
I'd try these lot first.

GSF

VW Brakes (telephone, they rarely answer email.)

Eurofarts'(prob' the most expensive?)

If you get no joy let me know and I'll make a couple of phone calls for ya'.

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MostlyMonki View Drop Down
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote MostlyMonki Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 03 Oct 08 at 11:24
no joy Cry , plenty of other stuff but none of them have a Compensator listed...
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AndyT View Drop Down
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote AndyT Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 03 Oct 08 at 13:58
Just a thought, but can it be dismantled.
If its a seal that's failed then all you need are seals of the correct diameter etc which should be possible to find.
I mention this cos I had O rings fail on a power steering pump, cost pence to fix instead of £300 for a new pump.
LT28 1979 2.0 Pampas Nevada Camper LPG 93K, 1980 T3 A/C Camper 98K,1994 RRC 3.9 LPG 120k , 1998 Audi A6 Est 2.5 V6 diesel 127k

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Butternut boy View Drop Down
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote Butternut boy Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 03 Oct 08 at 14:29
Well I've been on the phone to a usual suspects Monki and it don't sound good.
My mate who usually comes up trumps trawled through his Lockheed catalogue and there's no info on em'
Both him and another place I know said they've never heard of "seal-kits" for these... just cylinder kits available.
I've got a good contact at German/Swedish and he says they've never had these in, and the only place they can be sourced is direct from VW.
My Eurofarts have an original VW one on he shelf but want £139.50+vat. again said VW are the only holders of these I'm afraid.
I'll walk over to my mates garage now and see if he's got any bright ideas
Sit tight bud.
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AndyT View Drop Down
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote AndyT Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 03 Oct 08 at 14:40
Same question mate, can it be dismantled?, cos then you are only looking for the seals which is a different problem.
P.S. there's an LT35 which looks like its going to be scrapped. Same part?
LT28 1979 2.0 Pampas Nevada Camper LPG 93K, 1980 T3 A/C Camper 98K,1994 RRC 3.9 LPG 120k , 1998 Audi A6 Est 2.5 V6 diesel 127k

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Butternut boy View Drop Down
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote Butternut boy Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 03 Oct 08 at 15:50
Just spoke to my mate, says he'd never recommend repairing one of these , to risky. That said, I guess he's charging people for it so he's got his insurance and liability to think of, also it's not his money in parts is it.
One interesting thing though... he said he couldn't remember seeing a leaking one of these, always seized. Basically he said he'd be far more suspicious of the pipes than the seals in this instance, so he'd take it off completely and check for the leak that way if you haven't already.
AndyT.I was bleeding mine the other day and it didn't look like you'd be able to pull it a part like you can a cylinder Not obviously anyway, hoping to be corrected on that. but I can't find any ref' to a repair/seal kit anywhere, only kits for cylinders.
In terms of the cost of a new one £100 could be the best you might get, there's a new one on ebay for a 2.4td Transporter 1995 and that's still £89 plus postage.

Sorry mate, I'm out of ideas for now. Maybe Thai(Terry) has fixed one of these in the past
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote caveman_dick Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 03 Oct 08 at 17:10
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Butternut boy View Drop Down
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote Butternut boy Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 03 Oct 08 at 17:16
Just remembered this part of a post by petergeeky which might be worth a read to see what is and what isn't poss'.


Took the reg. off, sealing the two supply brake pipes with (clean) rubber nipple dust seals. The reg. looks non-servicable to me, but at opposite end to the plunger is a big nut with copper washer - removed this nut and there's a chamber inside - this is the end where the bleed nipple sits, and one of the two dual circuit pipes runs into it - there doesn't seem any way that fluid can flow in/out of this chamber from the other end of the unit, there's a brass piston inside which seems to separate the two halves, so if you get air in here and can't undo the bleed nipple, the air seems trapped for ever! EXCEPT - what I did was, replaced the big nut tight, and filled the chamber with brake fluid through the hole where the supply pipe screws in - I had to do this slowly, pouring in a little fluid at a time and use a thin piece of wire to jiggle the air bubbles out. Did the same with the other supply pipe hole at the plunger end, although I think this was less essential as this chamber vents into the "out" pipe which feeds the wheel cylinders - so when you bleed the wheel cylinders any air here should be forced out. I then carefully crawled under the van, keeping the regulator upright at all times, removed the dust cap off the the first supply pipe, at which point fluid (under the forces of gravity) starts to run out of the pipe and right down your sleeve! - the good thing is though, that whilst fluid is running out, no air can get in, and as long as you don't hang about, the reservoir won't run empty. So as quick as I could, I screwed it in, then did the same with the second supply pipe (another sleeve full of fluid!), then screwed in the "out" pipe that feeds the wheel cylinders. Bolted it back to the bracket, and Hey Presto! - a firm pedal!!

A bit of an unconventional way to "bleed" the unit, but worked, and saved the £130 odd +VAT that GSF wanted for a new regulator, and got me my MOT!
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AndyT View Drop Down
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote AndyT Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 03 Oct 08 at 22:05
Seizing is usually down to not changing fluid often enough, and builds up over the years.
Brake fluid attracts water like a sponge and should be replaced as part of the service.

Back to the problem though, can someone post a diagram please or confirm that the part cannot be repaired.
LT28 1979 2.0 Pampas Nevada Camper LPG 93K, 1980 T3 A/C Camper 98K,1994 RRC 3.9 LPG 120k , 1998 Audi A6 Est 2.5 V6 diesel 127k

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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote petergeeky Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 03 Oct 08 at 23:48
Hi, just another thought to add further to my post relisted by Butternut above. When I removed the big nut and copper washer on the end of the unit, I replaced it and tightened it to what I thought was reasonably tight (It had been really tight to remove in the first place). When I refitted the unit and bled the system, fluid was weeping a little so I torqued the nut up more and it stopped. Couldn't find a torque wrench setting in the Haynes manual so just pulled it up as hard as I could using a standard 1/2" drive T bar (NB I'm an 11 stone weakling so take care if you've got decent muscles!). I was a bit naughty as I re-used the existing copper washer - if its leaking at this end maybe a new washer would also help?

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thal View Drop Down
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote thal Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 04 Oct 08 at 10:03
Hi all 2 things first Ive quite often had to repair brake parts for cars ive had where no parts are availabl but you have to be really carefull with brakes for obvious reasons, if its a case of knackered seals it can only be done if there is no scoring on the barrel. broken nipples can be easily removed with an easiout stud extractor, then replaced,2nd as for the regulator is it def broken or does it just need adjusting see manual.
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thal View Drop Down
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote thal Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 04 Oct 08 at 11:21
Hi all Ive been thinking (dangerous) I may Ramble as usual but bear with me. The brake reg is there to increase/decrease brake pressure to the rear wheels depending on the wieght of the van. but our vans are usualy a constant weight give or take wieght of water people camping eqip etc. It works by sensing the weight on the rear axle and opening a valve allowing more fluid to the rear cylinders, If it wasnt there it would mean the rear brakes will work at max pressure all the time, if the van was empty the rear wheels would lock up under braking,not good but our vans are seldom empty and therefore are proably working close to max pressure anyway. so to my point, what happens if we take it out of the system. Any thoughts.
Terry
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote AndyT Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 04 Oct 08 at 11:31
Thought about suggesting this myself, but if there was an accident I wouldn't like to explain it to the insurance. Always ask has your vehicle been modified don't they.
LT28 1979 2.0 Pampas Nevada Camper LPG 93K, 1980 T3 A/C Camper 98K,1994 RRC 3.9 LPG 120k , 1998 Audi A6 Est 2.5 V6 diesel 127k

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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote Butternut boy Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 04 Oct 08 at 11:34
Am I wrong in thinking it balances the amount of pressure applied to each side, so the van brakes in a straight line?
Without it would this still be poss'

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AndyT View Drop Down
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote AndyT Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 04 Oct 08 at 11:42
Thal is correct, its to stop the rear wheels locking up, not to balance braking side to side.
That's what the Haynes manual says anyway.
LT28 1979 2.0 Pampas Nevada Camper LPG 93K, 1980 T3 A/C Camper 98K,1994 RRC 3.9 LPG 120k , 1998 Audi A6 Est 2.5 V6 diesel 127k

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thal View Drop Down
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote thal Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 04 Oct 08 at 11:44
No it just works front to rear. But I may have another low vost solution, race cars have ajusable brake bias valves. so I looked on fleabay and found some from £49.99
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote Butternut boy Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 04 Oct 08 at 12:00
I'm lookin' at that Wilwood system. I think I could physically fit it to mine, so if your saying the mechanics are the same.... there you go.
Mine has a different lookin' lever thing, where as that one has a turnable cap thing
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thal View Drop Down
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote thal Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 04 Oct 08 at 12:04
Doesnt matter you set the brake bias via the dial instead of the lever setting the bias because of the weight,
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote Butternut boy Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 04 Oct 08 at 12:24
Terry, you are a very clever man


I like the look of this one.
But I guess you can take your pick.
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