Print Page | Close Window

Turbo problems

Printed From: The Brick-yard
Category: LT, Crafter & Sprinter Section
Forum Name: LT2 and sprinter forum
Forum Description: For, Er, 2nd generation LT and sprinters.
URL: http://www.brick-yard.co.uk/forum/forum_posts.asp?TID=94387
Printed Date: 30 Oct 20 at 01:21
Software Version: Web Wiz Forums 12.01 - http://www.webwizforums.com


Topic: Turbo problems
Posted By: Cornwall87
Subject: Turbo problems
Date Posted: 24 Feb 20 at 13:21
Hi all, sorry to come back here with problems but I'm not sure who to ask
I have a whooshing noise possibly a high boost turbo leak.
Vcds says its p1556  charge pressure control negative deviation. Intermittent.
I'm getting shocking fuel economy, around 18.9mpg and around 2.5k to 3k I hear a definitive leak noise
All hoses seems ok and clamps are tight, but the van is so slow going up hills that arctic lorries have tried to overtake me
It's a 2004 lt 28 2.5 tdi 83ps so I thought itd be slow but I can definitely hear a problem at heavy boost times.
Sorry to come back with issues 
Simon


-------------
SWB VW LT 28 2.5TDI



Replies:
Posted By: tellytubby
Date Posted: 24 Feb 20 at 15:34
If you have a noticeable noise you will have a leak some where.  If you are fairly happy with the hoses the next thing is the intercooler.  Sometimes the end tanks separate from the matrix or you may just have a hole in the matrix.

TT



Posted By: mojo
Date Posted: 24 Feb 20 at 19:37
Best thing to do is get a spray bottle with some washy liquid and water, give everywhere a good spray, all over turbo, all boost hoses and joints, egr hose, intercooler, intake manifold, exhaust manifold. Start the engine, give it a good rev at the accelerator position motor in the engine bay and watch for growing bubbles. I have a niggling suspicion that the turbo vanes may be stuck, they can get sooted up and jam especially if the engines been left running poorly for any length of time. Ask me how i know lol. I had a boost leak on mine and started getting a bit smokey with loss of power. I was busy with work at the time and let it go for a few months like this. Ended up with the same code and stuck vanes in the turbo. When I done the bubble test I had a boost leak on the rear turbo housing, the egr pipe and the exhaust manifold mating face to the cylinder head.

-------------
2006 LT35 TDI 109 AVR


Posted By: Cornwall87
Date Posted: 25 Feb 20 at 14:07
I shall have a go with both ideas! Thanks. I'm going to build a pressure tester out of pvc pipe to test for leaks with an air compressor too. I got 320ish miles from a full tank last time so something is definitely not right. Its not feeling sluggish but at higher revs I can definitely hear the leak
Thanks guys
Simon


-------------
SWB VW LT 28 2.5TDI


Posted By: Cornwall87
Date Posted: 29 Feb 20 at 00:56
Evening all, tested everywhere and everything for  leaks with soapy water. Nothing, I did a vcds log and max boost was 4.04 psi!! Ffs this van!
Took the hoses from the n75 valve off, and then Googled the way to route them. The previous owner had put the turbo feed and the intake pressure feed on backwards!! I'm now peaking at 12psi boost!! No errors.
Thanks yet again guys!!


-------------
SWB VW LT 28 2.5TDI


Posted By: mojo
Date Posted: 03 Mar 20 at 21:40
Glad you're sorted. Nice easy one hey.


-------------
2006 LT35 TDI 109 AVR


Posted By: Cornwall87
Date Posted: 03 Mar 20 at 22:09
Its leaking boost but the difference is mental 

-------------
SWB VW LT 28 2.5TDI


Posted By: Cornwall87
Date Posted: 02 May 20 at 17:10
so the turbo leak is getting worse, ive sprayed the hoses again, all over the intercooler too.
does anyone know the sizes of the hoses? I found the standard black ones but the postage seems too much for me so im thinking silicone now. I cant find the sizes online and im worried if I take the ones on there off, they'll disintegrate on me. they look around 62mm into and out of the intercooler and around the same for the rest but a definitive answer would be great.
hope everyone is safe from this covid, im working so much keeping up with demand, temp job in a supermarket isn't great but at least its money!

-------------
SWB VW LT 28 2.5TDI


Posted By: mojo
Date Posted: 04 May 20 at 00:46
Did you spray the whole turbo, joints on both manifolds and the egr pipe joints as well. If there is a leak the bubbles will find it. The rubber boost hoses are pretty sturdy I wouldn't worry about them disintegrating. I'll check tomorrow what sizes they are.
If you post your model number (should be on the back of the fuse panel cover on the steering column) ie 2DH152. I'll post the vcds test procedure for boost checking.

-------------
2006 LT35 TDI 109 AVR


Posted By: Cornwall87
Date Posted: 06 May 20 at 22:42
I sprayed everything I could, I made a really strong solution. its really bugin me.
thanks for your help again.
its 2DA0C2
sorry about the late reply ive been working so much
simon

-------------
SWB VW LT 28 2.5TDI


Posted By: mojo
Date Posted: 07 May 20 at 23:30
I haven't had a chance to measure the hoses properly but a quick go with the digital calipers was reading around 77-78mm O.D, which would make me think 70ish mm I.D. Yours may be different with it being the BBE engine.

Here's the VCDS/Measuring block specs to help you check and see what's good and what's not.

https://postimg.cc/gallery/BHNtwFD" rel="nofollow - https://postimg.cc/gallery/BHNtwFD


-------------
2006 LT35 TDI 109 AVR


Posted By: Cornwall87
Date Posted: 22 May 20 at 22:25
brilliant thanks, I need to get the temp gauge working and then hopefully ill be able to do the tests, the heaters blow hot but the temp never rises above 70 so ill have to order the bits on payday.

thanks again bud

simon

-------------
SWB VW LT 28 2.5TDI


Posted By: mojo
Date Posted: 23 May 20 at 22:49
Sounds like the thermostat is stuck open, mine did a good few years back and struggled to get above 70.  To confirm this, give the van a good run with plenty of high revs and it should go over the 70 but then quickly drop back down when you ease off. If it does, it'll need a good flush, then throw a new stat in and new coolant. It should run around 80 if your just farting around but on a good run should be 90-100.


-------------
2006 LT35 TDI 109 AVR


Posted By: tellytubby
Date Posted: 23 May 20 at 22:56
If you've had vacuum pipes in the wrong place double check you have vacuum to the coolant bypass valve.

If this has no vacuum you will never get the engine up to temp.

Guess how I know.

TT



Posted By: Cornwall87
Date Posted: 23 May 20 at 23:28
it barely gets to 70c according to vcds, ive seen it higher but I found a broken wire on the bottom temp sensor so that was probably the cause, ill check ebay for a stat and give her a flush out, do you now where I can get the sensors?

the bypass seems to always have vacuum even after just starting, I still don't know if the aux pump works, the engine is so noisy I cant make it out.

simon

-------------
SWB VW LT 28 2.5TDI


Posted By: mojo
Date Posted: 07 Jun 20 at 23:09
Eurocarparts is your best bet for a stat they're about £8 if I rembemer rightly (with the online discount codes).

Are you saying the temp gauge isn't working and you're getting your temps from vcds?

If the wire to the sensor is broke then it's that which will need repairing, not a new sensor.

To test the 'continued circulation pump' the volkswagen name for it. Pull the connector of the top temp sensor and bridge the two terminals with a paper clip etc, the pump should run. If it doesn't, check fuse 82 (10amp) under the drivers seat.

-------------
2006 LT35 TDI 109 AVR



Print Page | Close Window

Forum Software by Web Wiz Forums® version 12.01 - http://www.webwizforums.com
Copyright ©2001-2018 Web Wiz Ltd. - https://www.webwiz.net