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New owner need some help

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Category: LT, Crafter & Sprinter Section
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URL: http://www.brick-yard.co.uk/forum/forum_posts.asp?TID=93186
Printed Date: 19 Apr 24 at 09:33
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Topic: New owner need some help
Posted By: hooliganATV
Subject: New owner need some help
Date Posted: 25 Dec 17 at 13:47
Hi guys,

Figured I would introduce my self.

My name's Shane, I picked up a 1990 hi top camper LT35 convert. 2.4petrol with 49k on the clock (original).

So it's needs a bit of tlc here and there. Modernising and cleaning but generally it's all good

I do have a couple of questions I plan on using it this week.

First is there is a knocking coming from the gear box is this normal?? I'll try and add a link to a video.

Next up is can any one tell me what the oil gage is?? I believe it's oil pressure just want to double check. Also what's the red flashing light on the temp gauge??

Lastly can anyone tell me how I get the LPG to work?? There are no light that come on the little box no matter what position the switch is in except a very quick red led that flashes once quickly. Never had LPG before so a complete noob to it.










Replies:
Posted By: hooliganATV
Date Posted: 25 Dec 17 at 13:55
Engine knock

http://youtu.be/OlIY-u0bKkU" rel="nofollow - bang


Posted By: Buss Marius
Date Posted: 25 Dec 17 at 14:09
Congratulations and welcome to the worlds only open, and active non-german LT forum.

The small red lamp is probably to low on coolant liquide. It also flashes if it is to hot. You have to open under the middle front seat (if you have one)to get to it. it is about 1 liter from top Down to where the lamp starts to flash. The hole systeme takes about 13,5 liter
Yes i think it is the oil gauge, if it says 0 when the engine is of, i think it is.. What the correct oil pressure is i don't know

I think there are a few other on this forum that also run on LPGso they probably are able to give you some help.

PS what about a pickture of the hole car, and do you have a LT 35E or LT 35Z?

-------------
87 Karmann LT L 2,4D. 89 T3 Syncro Reimo 1,9TD. 2000 T4 Caravelle TDI


Posted By: hooliganATV
Date Posted: 25 Dec 17 at 15:40
It's the E.

That's so much for the info I'll get the coolant toped up before we set off tonight.

And I completely forgot about a complete picture so here's a few




And some of the inside











Made a few upgrade, covered the tables and sorted out the centre tray more to come


Posted By: hooliganATV
Date Posted: 26 Dec 17 at 01:02
So just finished it first 240mile in the van.

There has to be an issue with the fuel. Not sure if it's a leak or dodgy fuel gauge.

Filled up with £27 so say 20ltr. That filled (but only showed 3/4 on the gauge) it 3 clicks, drove 100 miles to reading services it was on 1/4 (line up from the red) of a tank. Filled up 40ltr again showed 3/4 smelt fuel but think it was spilled in fuel station. Drove the 120 miles to Colchester back on 1/4 seems to drop fast. I'm used to bad fuel my shogun only does 15mpg but this seem steep.

It has had a new fuel tank recently so possible that there is a loose pipe but more likely I think the sender/ gauge is caput

Any thoughts?? Need to get some LPG cause I think it won't work because there is no fuel in it


Posted By: nooberdoober
Date Posted: 26 Dec 17 at 23:39
yeah bung 10 quids worth of gas in, then when it's ticking over on petrol, switch to gas. if you've got a three stage switch, then go from the petrol setting(right) to the middle setting which will allow the remaining petrol to drain from the carb, as you hear the engine just begin to murmur discontent from fuel starvation, switch it all the way to the gas setting(left) and it should start to feed gas to your intake and the engine will begin to pick up. 

You should also hear some solenoid switches cutting fuel to your carb, severing signal to your fuel pump and turning on the flow of gas with the engine running as you manipulate the switch. Listen for the clicking at each stage of the process so you know it's doing what its supposed to. You won't be able (or rather you shouldn't be able ) to switch between the gas and the petrol settings while the engine is not running. Safety setting. The switch looks for a pulse from the distributor to judge whether the engine is running and should not allow you to switch it unless it's getting the run signal.


-------------
I got me a 2.4 straight Six......and it's a soundin JUICY!

1984 LT40 2.4 petrol Coachbuilt Autotrail Motorhome


Posted By: hooliganATV
Date Posted: 27 Dec 17 at 03:48
Originally posted by nooberdoober nooberdoober wrote:

yeah bung 10 quids worth of gas in, then when it's ticking over on petrol, switch to gas. if you've got a three stage switch, then go from the petrol setting(right) to the middle setting which will allow the remaining petrol to drain from the carb, as you hear the engine just begin to murmur discontent from fuel starvation, switch it all the way to the gas setting(left) and it should start to feed gas to your intake and the engine will begin to pick up. 

You should also hear some solenoid switches cutting fuel to your carb, severing signal to your fuel pump and turning on the flow of gas with the engine running as you manipulate the switch. Listen for the clicking at each stage of the process so you know it's doing what its supposed to. You won't be able (or rather you shouldn't be able ) to switch between the gas and the petrol settings while the engine is not running. Safety setting. The switch looks for a pulse from the distributor to judge whether the engine is running and should not allow you to switch it unless it's getting the run signal.

looks like it isn't working so ill give a local place a call get them to go through it and see whats whats. 

did the maths and it seems the old bus is running about 11-12 MPG, 420+ miles and £170 hopefully the LPG is an easy fix.

also my list of other jobs got bigger but after our first night we're sold its awesome.


Posted By: LTCamper89
Date Posted: 27 Dec 17 at 17:10
Welcome🍻
There is a Haynes manual which covers petrol variants, in the Tech section.
Nice van.

-------------
1989 LT28 2.4D    Saviour of 6Music, well one of them. Now playing http://www.bbc.co.uk/radio/player/bbc_6music

VW LT Camper not Cramper

....at least the roof is not rusting away....


Posted By: hooliganATV
Date Posted: 27 Dec 17 at 21:34
thanks mate that will help loads

Thumbs Up



Posted By: Buss Marius
Date Posted: 28 Dec 17 at 10:32
Nice looking camper. And you have the AEZ Vantage alu Wheels, my favorite LT Wheel (no i don't have that type on mine)

-------------
87 Karmann LT L 2,4D. 89 T3 Syncro Reimo 1,9TD. 2000 T4 Caravelle TDI


Posted By: hooliganATV
Date Posted: 28 Dec 17 at 23:20
Originally posted by Buss Marius Buss Marius wrote:

Nice looking camper. And you have the AEZ Vantage alu Wheels, my favorite LT Wheel (no i don't have that type on mine)

good to know, they need a refurb too but i like them another job for the list. 

good news it went through the garage with a clean bill of health, possible job for the future is the gear lever bushings and possible thrust bearing but they said they not overly concerned about either so thrust bearing can wait till clutch needs doing and gear linkage when i get one in. 

next job externally is the LPG because it isn't getting any power apparently.  internally i have 4 boxes of stuff to either fit, change or find a home for hahaha 


Posted By: hooliganATV
Date Posted: 29 Dec 17 at 14:47
And that was an easy fix on the LPG. Always worth checking stuff out.



The culprit



Next job


Posted By: AndyT
Date Posted: 29 Dec 17 at 15:49
Welcome to the forum mate, I'll move this topic to the Tech Section in a few days time.
Looks a nice LT you have bought, manuals including Haynes can be downloaded free from the link in the Tech Section. 2.4 engine is covered in the supplementary section of the Haynes.

P.S. Replace the rubber fuel lines in the petrol fuel system, they deteriorate with and it only costs a tenner.


-------------
LT28 1979 2.0 Pampas Nevada Camper LPG 93K, 1980 T3 A/C Camper 98K,1994 RRC 3.9 LPG 120k , 1998 Audi A6 Est 2.5 V6 diesel 127k



Posted By: hooliganATV
Date Posted: 29 Dec 17 at 23:52
would you happen to know the ID and how much you need to do it all??? ill get them checked out and replaced maybe when they swapped the tank out they did that too (here's hoping).

started on the stereo tonight, over the passed 27yrs it looks like many people have cut a bit, added a bit, cut some more so ill tidy that up and solder in a new modern block so it's an easy swap next time. more Pic to follow. 

also sorry for posting in the wrong section i suppose it was an intro and now turned into a build thread ConfusedConfused


Posted By: nooberdoober
Date Posted: 30 Dec 17 at 01:00
What was the culprit on the lpg switch? that image is not showing up for some reason.

-------------
I got me a 2.4 straight Six......and it's a soundin JUICY!

1984 LT40 2.4 petrol Coachbuilt Autotrail Motorhome


Posted By: AndyT
Date Posted: 30 Dec 17 at 11:19
You won't need much pipe as it's steel front to back with rubber at each end, maybe 3m max but you will have to check. Mine is a 4 pot and much older.
Can't remember the ID, just disconnect and stick a drill bit in the end.


-------------
LT28 1979 2.0 Pampas Nevada Camper LPG 93K, 1980 T3 A/C Camper 98K,1994 RRC 3.9 LPG 120k , 1998 Audi A6 Est 2.5 V6 diesel 127k



Posted By: hooliganATV
Date Posted: 30 Dec 17 at 11:55
Will do

The culprit was a very old 5amp fuse all corroded and holding on by a thread.

Ok so new head unit is getting in stalled and I'll be clearing all the old wiring out and replacing with a new modern connection box all soldered not spade connected but I have a question.

The head unit powers off at hight volume. After some research I have found out it could be the speakers are too powerful for the head unit. Head unit is 55w per 4 channels and the speakers are 60 watts each. Any idea if this is correct or I need to look for another fault some where??

This is not my strong point.


Posted By: hooliganATV
Date Posted: 30 Dec 17 at 20:07
another job done, head unit installed with 4 new speakers all working great and now hands free. fitted a modern connection block all soldered in and removed about 5m of cramp wiring.  

but like everything one job finds 3 more. loads of random wires going nowhere under the dash, this can be a good thing so i'll go through them tomorrow if they have no purpose out they will come. 

also discovered a reversing camera on the rear bumper, but no idea where it goes or to what as there is no screen fitted so ill chase that as i was planning on fitting one. 

need to fix the back door. it was working fine but doesn't seem to want to open now.

and there is a bit of damp under the front mats so ill take them up get them dried out and give the foot wells a good coat of hammerite. 

quite enjoying this, make a change from 4x4 and motorbikes. 


Posted By: nooberdoober
Date Posted: 31 Dec 17 at 00:13
i might be wrong but the damp under the front matts probably wont go away with a coat of hammerite...... have a quick look at indicator housing and windscreen seal. Perhaps also radio arial. Hopefully its not damp on the fuse box side.

The problem happens on mine too and i've yet to put an end to it. The floor panels around the accelerator and steering column have got some pretty advanced rust on mine and it's made harder to sort out because of the resin stuff they plastered over the metal panels to reduce noise i suppose. Once the rust gets under there......more work......


-------------
I got me a 2.4 straight Six......and it's a soundin JUICY!

1984 LT40 2.4 petrol Coachbuilt Autotrail Motorhome


Posted By: hooliganATV
Date Posted: 31 Dec 17 at 17:01
Yeh I ment the hammerite may slow the rust down not fix the damp, that's a job to get stuck into when the weather's better.

Today I got a bit more wiring cleared out from under the dashboard. Old.joints just left in place so it's looking alot.less cluttered under there but still more to do as I find what's not being used anymore.

I was trying to trace where these switches go because they aren't operating the standard stuff anymore from what I can tell.



The bottom red one isn't connected to anything. The orange taped one I have no idea and the other orange I traced back to this but also feeds something else but it's too we to climb under the bus today.



Em what could possibly be needing a bungee cord in front of the engine????



Oh obviously an electric fan why wouldn't you????



I see if it needs it and if it dose I'll make some proper brackets to hold it in place.

The pile of stuff removed or replaced so far



And the cab looking a bit clearer



Two big things coming up. New paint job and booking in to a proper camp van specialist to make sure it's all working as is and maybe upgrade some of the electrics


Posted By: Tiggerandfish
Date Posted: 31 Dec 17 at 19:27
I’m enjoying reading this thread and the pictures are interesting, especially the bespoke fan bracket

I’ve just finished stopping the water gathering in the drivers footwell of my LT28 . The cause of mine was a joint effort of the indicator and corner of the windscreen seal. I made a new seal for the indicator unit out of neoprene self adhesive strip I got on amazon. The old rubber seal that was rebated into the unit had worn away.

The windscreen was a good old rust hole which I removed, treated and filled.

Good luck and keep the updates coming.

-------------
Simon
1985 LT 28 2.4D


Posted By: hooliganATV
Date Posted: 31 Dec 17 at 20:00
I'll look into it and trust me updates and questions will keep coming.

I have built a few motorbikes and a couple of 4x4 but this is my first camper hahaha


Posted By: hooliganATV
Date Posted: 01 Jan 18 at 23:10
do rocker switches fit in the standard switch holders???

thinking about upgrading them once i work out what's doing what, i have 6 switches and a light (not sure what that does at all) 

back to investigating i suppose. 


Posted By: nooberdoober
Date Posted: 03 Jan 18 at 17:55
just gone back and had a look at the mass of switches you have. I see that the last owner has allowed for a manual on and off for your fuel pump to let you switch it off when you run the LPG. Never seen it done like that before and it makes me wonder if the other switches might not be something to do with other LPG related solenoids.

-------------
I got me a 2.4 straight Six......and it's a soundin JUICY!

1984 LT40 2.4 petrol Coachbuilt Autotrail Motorhome


Posted By: AndyT
Date Posted: 03 Jan 18 at 18:16
Doesn't make any sense but you have no idea what they were trying to do.
On an engine with injection you can add a bit of petrol to the gas for more power but I've never heard of it on a carb engine. Would just over fuel surely.
My switch is petrol top, nothing in the middle and lpg bottom, start all year round on lpg but now and again I use petrol to keep it fresh and seals in order.
From petrol I flick the switch to middle wait a few secs and then flick to gas.
One switch does all.


-------------
LT28 1979 2.0 Pampas Nevada Camper LPG 93K, 1980 T3 A/C Camper 98K,1994 RRC 3.9 LPG 120k , 1998 Audi A6 Est 2.5 V6 diesel 127k



Posted By: nooberdoober
Date Posted: 03 Jan 18 at 23:57
One of them switches was maybe for that tastefully installed aftermarket fan? Fuel pump switch for aftermarket inline pump? If it's had a new tank perhaps original pump wiring has been interfered with.

-------------
I got me a 2.4 straight Six......and it's a soundin JUICY!

1984 LT40 2.4 petrol Coachbuilt Autotrail Motorhome


Posted By: hooliganATV
Date Posted: 04 Jan 18 at 01:46
the fan was wired in to one of them, along with something else to the same switch but that goes up towards the transfer box and i can't chase the wire from there, thats one of the switches. 

the fuel pump switch (bottom one) had me confused too i thought it as for the LPG system until i pull it out and there is nothing plugged into it hahaha so its spare. 

the big one for me is the one with tape on to keep it lite. it doesn't do anything visually, the hand book suggest it may be the rear window heater but it doesn't have them. its got 4 wires going in so must do something, i need to just pull the hole dash off and chase them back i think. 

the real prize for me was the light bulb, its for the fog lights, best bit is its got two wires that are just jammed into the fog light switch. at least its mechanically sound so i was told from a garage that didn't spot a fan bunged to the front of an engineLOLLOL

think i just stick to doing it myself from here on in, just need a bigger trolley jack. 




Posted By: nooberdoober
Date Posted: 04 Jan 18 at 10:51
We've thought about swapping the fixed fan for an aftermarket electric fan on mine. Sounds daft but better make sure you still have the original fan fixed to the crank pulley just incase they had the same idea....I can't imagine why the previous owner on yours felt the need to have both? Our reasoning to potentially swap one for the other was that the fixed fan is running regardless of whether it needs cooling or not, meaning that the engine is having to use lots of it's very limited energy simply turning the fixed fan. 

Sounds like your local mechanics are about as diligent as every so called VW specialist garage I've ever come across locally to me. I get the feeling these days, if they can't plug it into a posh fault reader and get a code that tells them whats wrong with it...then most don't have a clue. Despite how long every single job takes me to do I haven't regretted doing any of it under my own steam and I'm 100% pure novice. 

The main fan is obscured from view inside it's cowling and if your local mechanic didn't spot the bungeed on electric fan hanging off the bottom of yours....i doubt they'd have had the forethought to check anything that thoroughly.


-------------
I got me a 2.4 straight Six......and it's a soundin JUICY!

1984 LT40 2.4 petrol Coachbuilt Autotrail Motorhome


Posted By: hooliganATV
Date Posted: 04 Jan 18 at 14:15
I'll be checking the main fan but I'm sure I herd it when I was under there the other day.

The worse bit is the garage owner is a mate. But I normally do all my own repairs, this is the 2nd time in 10year I have put a car in for work ( first time was a different garage and they screwed me) I won't be making that mistake again


Posted By: hooliganATV
Date Posted: 04 Jan 18 at 14:49
Had a quick look, the stock fan is fitted so not sure why they need extra but I'll keep an eye on it

Looks like the other wire is going to a thermostat to control the fan so that can be left in place in case I wan to re fit later on


Posted By: nooberdoober
Date Posted: 04 Jan 18 at 15:36
odd that the fan is linked to both a manual switch and to a thermostat.

-------------
I got me a 2.4 straight Six......and it's a soundin JUICY!

1984 LT40 2.4 petrol Coachbuilt Autotrail Motorhome


Posted By: hooliganATV
Date Posted: 04 Jan 18 at 18:14
I have know idea this really isn't my strong point I gate wiring. so from the switch the wires go to a relay,from there to two lines goes off one to the fan one to them top of the engine at the front to what looks like the water system. By the fill bottle. I'll have to take the cover off and have a better look.

This is the relay



Found this all taped into the LPG system think I'll clean that lot out tomorrow. Also random earth's just hanging around.



Right switches

Let me just stick this here cause I'm bond to loose the bit of paper



- So the top is standard ( as far as I can tell) hazard lights
- Next up is the light to tell you the fog lights are on, funny as it doesn't even tell you the head lights are on hahaha.
- Next standard fog light switch
- Under that is the rear spotlight. Dodgy wiring but it does work job for the future.
- the problem switch, still don't know what's going on but it doesn't work now. I chased the wires to behind the fuse box, it's connected to a green wire that goes straight into the loom. So I'll have to consult the haynes and see if I can work it out but doesn't appear to have stopped anything.

Looks like I may have pulled the earth out while looking into its use but still not working now and everything thing seem to be fine. I'm wondering if it is the old rear window heater.



Need to order some proper wire at some point and clear it all out.

Right on with some other stuff

Swapped the twin socket in the dildo to some with USB's easy to do and gives us some more charging spots as everything seem to be USB now's



And they glow blue



I tryed to do the same in the seated area but the sock it older so I need to replace the back too



It does work but just not safe like that



Also did some work on the sink and draining board cover. Need to get some more wrap and get round to painting the actual dildo



Painted baby blue and sanded back to show the wood the other colour is sage green so should look good.





There is a great big list of stuff we have brought to kit the van out and it's all getting in the way so need to look at storage too.

It's keeping me busy at least


Posted By: hooliganATV
Date Posted: 05 Jan 18 at 13:02
Any ideas what relay lable 63 is for??



Posted By: nooberdoober
Date Posted: 05 Jan 18 at 16:57
Wow they really did a job on your wiring mate! Hours of fun decoding and chasing for you! I can't find a vw audi relay numbered 63. best just chase it all through. I'd be interested to know what you find.

-------------
I got me a 2.4 straight Six......and it's a soundin JUICY!

1984 LT40 2.4 petrol Coachbuilt Autotrail Motorhome


Posted By: hooliganATV
Date Posted: 05 Jan 18 at 20:06
My mate came down, he's a little more clued up than me. We still couldn't find what's it for but he gonna come down and we will go through it.

We think it all could be to do with the towage. It has dual sockets which normally is for a caravan so you charge the leisure battery in that while you drive. Maybe the switch was to turn that on. Who knows I'm sure we will get it sorted.

While he was down he dropped me off these





The little ones are to replace the rear light the front bar is to give me a bit more light when needed ( yep I know more wires and switches)

So low mount or high???





Personally I think low as it does interfer with the look.

Another job that need doing is painting the interior





And I finished the last top



Slowly making progress I think


Posted By: hooliganATV
Date Posted: 07 Jan 18 at 09:58
Cupboard doors are finished now for the rest of it



Posted By: hooliganATV
Date Posted: 07 Jan 18 at 15:25
That's most of the main cupboards now green. I need to give it a day or two then I'll tape it all off and add the blue. Once I got stuff back in the cupboards and stored away I can get the seated area done.







Posted By: hooliganATV
Date Posted: 13 Jan 18 at 01:14
Well finally that's that done





Got the TV all mounted, I'll order mifi this week and have that all wired in shortly after.



Also got to replace that fuse box out too

Next jobs will be painting all the front wood and seat bases but that's will wait till after my next trip out init next weekend.



It will slow down a bit now. Still to do ( big jobs) sort curtains out, replace wall fabric, flooring and dye the roof lining and covers for the cushions.

Then I can get on with the outside stuff.


Posted By: hooliganATV
Date Posted: 13 Jan 18 at 16:50
Just found out the sink tap in the toilet doubles as the shower head, that will keep the wife happy


Posted By: funky_monkey
Date Posted: 14 Jan 18 at 07:41
Hi Mate, I've enjoyed reading your post, thought I'd make a few points, I've owned and worked on many old Lt's nearly all have the red light flashing when it shouldn't be, it is for the coolent level, i think it's a problem in the dash rather than the sender on tank. Also not seen many that the windscreen seal doesn't leak. This will rot out you windscreen suround if left. If you take the windscreen out, it's better to cut the rubber from inside and buy a new one, as your probably break it getting it out otherwise. The oil pressure gadge is after market, the Lt just has a buzzer in the dash for no oil pressure. Also I'm considering removing the viscous fan on mine for electric, you gain mpg and small amount of power, but also as in Italy once the rubber came off around the fan on my old fan breaking the fan and sending a blade through the radiator. I managed to remove the rad and roll up the damaged tubes in rad and solder them with a blow torch and plumbing solder from a near by diy store. I recently broken my old van and still have a fuse board if you need it.


Posted By: lorryloader
Date Posted: 14 Jan 18 at 16:51
Welcome, beautiful van both insidenout great pics keep em coming !ClapSmileWink

-------------
LT-45 HIGH TOP + LT-55-BEVERTAIL.Mercedes Atego tilt n slide with lorry loader crane.


Posted By: hooliganATV
Date Posted: 14 Jan 18 at 21:24
Originally posted by funky_monkey funky_monkey wrote:

Hi Mate, I've enjoyed reading your post, thought I'd make a few points, I've owned and worked on many old Lt's nearly all have the red light flashing when it shouldn't be, it is for the coolent level, i think it's a problem in the dash rather than the sender on tank. Also not seen many that the windscreen seal doesn't leak. This will rot out you windscreen suround if left. If you take the windscreen out, it's better to cut the rubber from inside and buy a new one, as your probably break it getting it out otherwise. The oil pressure gadge is after market, the Lt just has a buzzer in the dash for no oil pressure. Also I'm considering removing the viscous fan on mine for electric, you gain mpg and small amount of power, but also as in Italy once the rubber came off around the fan on my old fan breaking the fan and sending a blade through the radiator. I managed to remove the rad and roll up the damaged tubes in rad and solder them with a blow torch and plumbing solder from a near by diy store. I recently broken my old van and still have a fuse board if you need it.

thank you very much, i'll get the window out in the summer and get it all rubbed back and treated, if needs be i will cut and weld in replacement metal. i may have to cut and weld in new footwells as they seem pretty bad but may just be surface as i can stick a screwdriver through it yet. 

i have left the fan wiring in place, i think i will fit a electric fan but something substantial that will actually help and also make some proper mounting brackets  hahaha. i haven't heard a buzzer so that's a good thing , i'll be leaving the pressure gage in as its seems to work ok, i'm also going to fit a couple of voltmeters into the spare slots for the van and leisure battery just for a visual reference.
the coolant light went out after i topped it up but again ill drain the system in the summer and run some new coolant through it as it wasn't done on the recent service as they were happy with the colour ( im not). while i'm there i'll get all the fuel lines replaced too. 

Originally posted by lorryloader lorryloader wrote:

Welcome, beautiful van both insidenout great pics keep em coming !ClapSmileWink

thank you, the jobs keep getting added so don't worry i will keep updating but will slow down a bit now as we have a couple of little trips planned so can doing anything major. 

think the next major job is in february when we are going to be going through the hole electrics Dead

i also have a motorbike to build for a competition lol best get my finger out


Posted By: hooliganATV
Date Posted: 15 Jan 18 at 20:17
Just quick update, these arrived.



New cupholders and a bag to go on the roof rack. This will get some.of the less important stuff like outside chairs out the way. It won't be up there all the time at least not while we not using the van but on trips we can clear stuff out up there


Posted By: hooliganATV
Date Posted: 17 Jan 18 at 18:11
So looks like we ready for our first official weekend away as a family. And the van is looking good if I do say so my self.

List of jobs is still growing but taking a break for now











Posted By: AndyT
Date Posted: 17 Jan 18 at 18:33
Have a great weekend mate, bloody chilly down here though.


-------------
LT28 1979 2.0 Pampas Nevada Camper LPG 93K, 1980 T3 A/C Camper 98K,1994 RRC 3.9 LPG 120k , 1998 Audi A6 Est 2.5 V6 diesel 127k



Posted By: hooliganATV
Date Posted: 17 Jan 18 at 22:18
Originally posted by AndyT AndyT wrote:

Have a great weekend mate, bloody chilly down here though.

not actually that far from you, just the other side of bridgend.

heading over the bridge and into dorset this weekend staying on a mates farm so should be ok.




Posted By: hooliganATV
Date Posted: 18 Jan 18 at 22:45
just make sure you test everything. 

jump in the van today after i had to recharge the batteries because i left a light on in the cupboard.

drove to morrisons filled up ready for tomorrow parked up happy. got home from work went to load up figured i would fill the water tank to test the pumps and water heater while we away drove it round to the house noticed it was dark in the cab, filled the water tank jump back in and realised the dash lights aren't working.

not going to strip the dash out now and fault find, it must have been something i removed when i fitted the stereo because the rest of the wires we removed were not connected to anything. oh well rigged an LED to light the dash up for now, i'm day driving anyway for the most part. bit annoyed but hey it wouldn't be a project if everything worked. 
i need to rip all the dash off because im going to fit two visual voltmeters one for the car battery the other the leisure as the LED light system on the main switch board is rubbish, one green light indicates 11 volts that wouldn't start anything. 
also found out the split charger isn't a split charge, both batteries charge and discharge together so leave a light on and the drive battery goes dead too. another job. 


-------------
1989 LT35E, 2.4 S6 LPG Camper


Posted By: robbydoo
Date Posted: 19 Jan 18 at 07:28
Are your dash lights dimmable? mine has a little wheel directly above the switch and they practically turn off..........you've not turned them right down have you?

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1985 LT40 2.4TD Coach built Pioneer Diamond
1983 1.9DG Autosleeper


Posted By: hooliganATV
Date Posted: 19 Jan 18 at 09:35
Originally posted by robbydoo robbydoo wrote:


Are your dash lights dimmable? mine has a little wheel directly above the switch and they practically turn off..........you've not turned them right down have you?


Yes they are but it's not that's it was the first thing I tryed. It's ok I'll pull the dash and sort this out. Way I look at it is if the only major thing I have to do on this van is the wiring I'm winning cause in the grand scheme it's probably the cheapest of the major components to do hahahah

But good thinking many times on other vehicle forum's I have heard people look for faults only to turn out to be a switch

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1989 LT35E, 2.4 S6 LPG Camper


Posted By: hooliganATV
Date Posted: 19 Jan 18 at 13:02
So half way through our journey stopped, two questions.

1, the throttle has like a click near the bottom that seems to receive the engine is that like a overdrive or something??

2, there must be thermostatically controlled fan on the van as there was something making noise under the engine untill it cooled down. Any ideas bearing in mind I have ripped off the other one?? Oh and nothing visible

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1989 LT35E, 2.4 S6 LPG Camper


Posted By: hooliganATV
Date Posted: 21 Jan 18 at 20:21
had an awesome trip, found out what the throttle click was after it develped into a sticky throttle, the pin under the pedle was catching the housing. ill take it apart at some point stick it all in the cleaner may be replace the pin and shave a bit of the housing to stop it develping in the future.

found out what the wires were in the switch, turns out it was the petrol fuel pump. when i tried to switch from LPG back to petrol it wouldn't start so i plugged the wires back in and it fired right up. all good. 

there is a few more jobs added to the list, a week or so and i'll get back on them. 

more updates to follow 


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1989 LT35E, 2.4 S6 LPG Camper


Posted By: hooliganATV
Date Posted: 21 Jan 18 at 20:25
Pick of the van parked for the night



And the family all enjoying a bit of TV and WiFi



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1989 LT35E, 2.4 S6 LPG Camper


Posted By: hooliganATV
Date Posted: 09 Mar 18 at 22:46
moving house soon so work has been slow. 

i do have new flooring for nothing, and some other bits arrived to get cracking. my new house has garage attached which will make the world of difference   


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1989 LT35E, 2.4 S6 LPG Camper


Posted By: AndyT
Date Posted: 09 Mar 18 at 23:51
You can get an LT in your garage, you lucky sod.
I can get a T3 in, but I have to let the tyres down to 15psi.Tongue


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LT28 1979 2.0 Pampas Nevada Camper LPG 93K, 1980 T3 A/C Camper 98K,1994 RRC 3.9 LPG 120k , 1998 Audi A6 Est 2.5 V6 diesel 127k



Posted By: hooliganATV
Date Posted: 22 Mar 18 at 23:17
Originally posted by AndyT AndyT wrote:

You can get an LT in your garage, you lucky sod.
I can get a T3 in, but I have to let the tyres down to 15psi.Tongue

no but with a drive and garage at the house it means i don't have to take the van to my tool storage or bring the tool to the van depending on what i need, means a 10min job is 10 mins and not 40mins just moving stuff around hahaha 

also with the drive it means i can do larger jobs with out the time restraint of having to put it back together to move it in a day

work will be starting again soon. MOT first week in april 


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1989 LT35E, 2.4 S6 LPG Camper



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