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T3 Autosleeper low top - the return!

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Printed Date: 19 Feb 17 at 18:43
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Topic: T3 Autosleeper low top - the return!
Posted By: fufflenarnia
Subject: T3 Autosleeper low top - the return!
Date Posted: 16 Sep 16 at 20:23
Well, I couldn't stay away for long, the garage was looking far too empty!

Mrs Fuf was missing a cm per too, as we're the kids.

So this is it, needs a little work, but a much better starting point than the last one:" rel="nofollow">" rel="nofollow">" rel="nofollow">

Drivers side has been done already - nice job too." rel="nofollow">" rel="nofollow">

Only 3 areas of rust left to weld:" rel="nofollow">" rel="nofollow">
And behind the front bumper.

Underneath is brilliant:" rel="nofollow">

A quick run round with a wire brush and loads of dintrol will do it.

Oil lek on one of the push rod tubes:" rel="nofollow">

Inside is very clean too:" rel="nofollow">

And he critical bit - a big double bed:" rel="nofollow">

So, the list:
Weld sliding door runner, behind bumper and rear quarter.
Thorough rust treat and respray.
Fix oil leak
New curtains and seat covers
Sort out the wiring and uprate the headlamps (one full of water!, but they are like candles).
Thorough engine sort out (runs like dog when cold)
Fit tow bar (anyone got one)
Repair both big bumpers
Fit land rover mirrors (forgot how shit the standard ones are)
Fit 3 point belts in the back

And this list will expand exponentially from here!

Posted By: mrhutch
Date Posted: 16 Sep 16 at 21:43

welcome back!!

T3 1981 Westy Vanagon - thinks lubricant is a fuel

Posted By: 912
Date Posted: 16 Sep 16 at 22:10
I nearly bought this but didn't have time to view it :(

Posted By: fufflenarnia
Date Posted: 16 Sep 16 at 22:20
Tee hee, wasn't gone for long, 3 weeks!

Posted By: mrhutch
Date Posted: 16 Sep 16 at 22:35
oh the joy of cut panel vans and chipboard..


T3 1981 Westy Vanagon - thinks lubricant is a fuel

Posted By: fufflenarnia
Date Posted: 16 Sep 16 at 23:14
Don't worry, I know my place.

Does the west have an "anti running over yourself" feature?

Posted By: mrhutch
Date Posted: 16 Sep 16 at 23:30

I don't know how anything works in it.

Your new bus looks ace..  Engine staying stock?

T3 1981 Westy Vanagon - thinks lubricant is a fuel

Posted By: fufflenarnia
Date Posted: 16 Sep 16 at 23:40
I think so. As long as it works, may be a gti one day....

Anyhoo wide boys need wide beds!

Posted By: tennis
Date Posted: 17 Sep 16 at 07:50
Hutch is swapping the Westie for Ava, he is just in denial.

Foursprings Dutch Picnic

Posted By: fufflenarnia
Date Posted: 17 Sep 16 at 07:58

Posted By: BeJay
Date Posted: 17 Sep 16 at 08:42
Originally posted by fufflenarnia fufflenarnia wrote:


Gardner?? now that wouldn't be a bad swap Wink 
 Image result for ava gardner


Posted By: fufflenarnia
Date Posted: 17 Sep 16 at 09:32
Yep, looks like a fair swap!

Posted By: fufflenarnia
Date Posted: 17 Sep 16 at 09:33
So, on to van fixing. Pushrod tubes - change one (the leaky one) with a springy one or all and do the heads?

Posted By: mrhutch
Date Posted: 17 Sep 16 at 10:00
just do the one..  and use the bus.

T3 1981 Westy Vanagon - thinks lubricant is a fuel

Posted By: tennis
Date Posted: 17 Sep 16 at 10:36
If its a 2.0ltr cu, you take the rocker cover off, unbolt the rockers and slide them in and out from there.
the springy ones only fit beetle and split engines.

Foursprings Dutch Picnic

Posted By: fufflenarnia
Date Posted: 17 Sep 16 at 11:25
1.9 dg.

Im happy to do the 1. Putting a nice big order together.

Posted By: fufflenarnia
Date Posted: 17 Sep 16 at 14:11
I've managed to get 3 bolts out of the heat shield, but th last one, omg! Hammered on smaller socket, tried heat, chizzeling one side of the head.

I'm thinking I may just cut the perfectly good heat shield, change the leaking pushrod covers and tack it back on!

Any other suggestions I should try first?

Posted By: Bromy
Date Posted: 17 Sep 16 at 16:10
Thumbs Up looks a good one

"follow the masses, do the opposite"

Posted By: mrhutch
Date Posted: 17 Sep 16 at 16:35
grind the head off the bolt, remove heat sheild intact, get medieval with the stud.

T3 1981 Westy Vanagon - thinks lubricant is a fuel

Posted By: fufflenarnia
Date Posted: 17 Sep 16 at 18:05
Too late! Cut and off. The bolt can be a challenge for an engine out job.

Not sure if the silicone goo on the tube is oem!" rel="nofollow">

Also 1990's car alarm removed." rel="nofollow">

And back quarter removed, nothing wirse than anticipated." rel="nofollow">" rel="nofollow">

Posted By: mrhutch
Date Posted: 17 Sep 16 at 18:07
putting a metal one back on? Saw the fibreglass ones rhoen bulli do at bustfest - very good quality

T3 1981 Westy Vanagon - thinks lubricant is a fuel

Posted By: fufflenarnia
Date Posted: 17 Sep 16 at 18:15
So, on to why she is not pulling at low revs.

I have looked for the filter in the carb to see if it is blocked, but no filter - any ideas? It has a new folder by the tank. Do I need to strip the carb down, aledgedly it's already been done.

Posted By: Bromy
Date Posted: 17 Sep 16 at 21:23
I had no end of stuttering at low revs untill i pulled the carb apart, re built with brickwerks kit. Job jobbed 

"follow the masses, do the opposite"

Posted By: fufflenarnia
Date Posted: 17 Sep 16 at 21:55
Hutch, I'll put the metal one back on, it's in really good condition.

I want to get the body sorted and mechanics OK so we can use her in the spring, I'll probably whip the engine out next year and give it the full monty.

I'll order a rebuild kit and check for anything else, thanks Bromy.

Posted By: fufflenarnia
Date Posted: 02 Jan 17 at 17:21
So having been distracted by redoing the dildo, its much bigger and has hard granite finish! I am now back on the van.

New distributor fitted along with 2 new pushrod tubes from brickwerks. I forgot to order rocker gaskets so new order placed.

Oil drain plug has stripped too, so m16 drain plug ordered from Brickwerks along with an m16 tap. Meanwhile the rocker covers have had a quick wire brush and paint.

Exhaust is blowing too, and some clamps are missing, so I may drop the engine and whip the exhaust off for a full investigation at some point.

Both back corners had gone (despite the drivers side havin a new rear wing, they hadn't fixed the rust hole under the vent or the corner panel." rel="nofollow">
New corner ordered for the other side.

Small hole in the wheel arch - same as on the last one." rel="nofollow">

Done the sill under the sliding door too, excellent repair panel, cut down to retain most of the original sill, but all new rail for the seal." rel="nofollow">" rel="nofollow">" rel="nofollow">

I may need to sort out the wood floor, looks like Wheetabix!

Front panel to do, plus one in the wheel arch and at the bottom right of the sliding door opening.

I need to decide if I want to paint it myself, or shell out for someone else to do it - if I can find someone at the right price. Also need to do upholstery and curtains.

Posted By: rowlesy
Date Posted: 02 Jan 17 at 19:48
whats the bus sat on fella? trying to figure it out?

UberFukz broke another!       sucky sucky five dollah!

always out numbered never out gunned!    RWS welding 07846 380 467 (worcs)

Posted By: fufflenarnia
Date Posted: 02 Jan 17 at 20:52
4 post lift.

The white bit is some left over mdf skirting from the dildo, its important to have a nice finish on the dildo. 4.2m long, can't fit it in the car to take it back! Must get round to cutting it in half and putting it in the car port.

Posted By: fufflenarnia
Date Posted: 07 Jan 17 at 18:07
More progress today:

2 holes in nsr wheel arch done:" rel="nofollow">
This one courtesy of an untreated screw I think:" rel="nofollow">

One at the back of the sliding door:" rel="nofollow">" rel="nofollow">

NSR should be complete now, so OSR to do, a different make of panel from Brickwerks this time "oversize"?!?" rel="nofollow">
Definitely not as good a fit as the Schofield one from Brickwerks for the other side. Perhaps oversize means "this one didn't come out right"!!!" rel="nofollow">
Lots and lots of fettling and it's good enough:" rel="nofollow">

Luckily the bits of rear roof rust courtesy of Autosleeper riveting the roof on through the rubber seal (so water is retained next to the screw and it rusts lots) aren't too far gone, one small hole to fix:" rel="nofollow">" rel="nofollow">

The bit under the sliding door runner isn't too bad either:" rel="nofollow">

Now to turn it round and sort out behind the rear bumper. NSR window needs doing, that can wait.

Push rod tubes done along with an oil change and new plugs. Timing done.
Running poorly on cold start 🙁, so need to check a few bits.

Posted By: fufflenarnia
Date Posted: 08 Jan 17 at 17:39
And more, on a roll!

Given her a good pressure wash so I can check the wheel arches etc, all very good.

Worked on the engine, it is only running on 3 cylinders.
Done a compression test, all 152 to 165 psi, except no 2 which is zero!
I took the rocker arms off and it comes up to 152psi, so double check everything is seated, set the tapits and guess what? Still zero!
Any ideas?.?

Gave up in that and turned the van round and worked on the front:
Yuck:" rel="nofollow">

Barely need the grinder, you can sweep it out! This done with fingers only:" rel="nofollow">

So a good run with 9" grinder, air chief to remove the spot welded steel at the bottom, and a bit more grinding and a go with the power file:" rel="nofollow">

I have a repair panel from Brickwerks which looks good (bottom right of the photo), I guess I will have to drop the rad out to weld the back.
Checked behind the seal on the pop top at the front, and nothing terminal there which is great.

Posted By: BeJay
Date Posted: 09 Jan 17 at 10:25
If you're getting good compression without the valves operating but zero when the rocker arms are back on I can't see it being a head problem, then my first thought would be either a badly sticking valve or a weak/broken valve spring not closing one of the valves quickly enough when it should, thus allowing pressure to escape into a manifold on the compression stroke.


Posted By: fufflenarnia
Date Posted: 15 Jan 17 at 21:15
Front done and thoroughly soaked in POR15." rel="nofollow">

I back flushed the radiator too and sorted any surface rust. I need to have a spray round with dintrol before the rad goes back in.

I will then turn the van back round and have a look at the hydraulic tappets on cylinder 2 and look at the window surrounds.

I haven't decided we ther to spray it myself or find a sensibly priced bodyshop, any suggestions round Redhill, Surrey welcome......

Posted By: fufflenarnia
Date Posted: 21 Jan 17 at 19:51
A bit more progress to report.

I've removed the exhaust off no 1, didn't think it would come out without shearing the studs, but I managed it, well chuffed:" rel="nofollow">

Also been rust treating stuff and a coat of paint where necessary:" rel="nofollow">" rel="nofollow">

I also have all 4 cylinders running, I guess the tappet leaked down. It won't tick over tho, and runs like a dog. The new fan belt from brickwerks is screaming too, but it's at its full adjustment

I guess it's going to be engine works until the weather perks up, it's too cold for spraying. I need to buy a replacement exhaust for no 1 too.

Posted By: fufflenarnia
Date Posted: 29 Jan 17 at 17:50
Got me a lovely set of Carat wheels, so the Audi ones have been sold. The rear long studs were loose (spinning), so I took the hubs off and put the standard set I removed from my last one in. Front long studs removed too. Steels put on for paint. One of the brakes is missing it's locator, the spring, or what's left of it was in the bottom of the drum. The shoes have plant of meat, but material missing drom the lining, so need replacing.

I've removed all the exhaust head studs (except one which looks scary and doesn't need to come out (why tempt fate).

I salvaged 3 branches of exhaust, no 2 had sheared at the silencer flange, but that welded up OK. I managed to pick up a nos one for cylinder 1 on ebay for a song. The silencer needed a small patch and all the studs drilling out (tried welding nuts on etc, but they weren't coming out, new studs drilled, tapped and loctited:" rel="nofollow">
I know it's alot of work on a consumable item, but they are soooo expensive and I have the desire to fit a different engine at some point so it's a waste to spend too much on this one.

I've repaired the other pushrod cover too." rel="nofollow">
It was only mounted on one port and the lower mount had split, now repaired, I had to extend the mount for the exhaust port as it didn't want to reach. It's now nice and shiny like it's twin.

Last bit of welding is on the side window, odly the seal is missing the filler strip - not good." rel="nofollow">

Posted By: fufflenarnia
Date Posted: 29 Jan 17 at 18:29
I also checked the gear change, the screws which hold the box under the stick to the body were properly loose, seems strange. Otherwise it's pretty good, I'll change the plastic parts anyway, seems daft not to.

There's an so been a repair on the front to rear coolant pipes, a section next to the engine bay has been cut out, but not quite enough, and the rust needs treating or they will get worse.

I need to get on with body prep, hopefully it will be warm enough to spray soon.......

Posted By: fufflenarnia
Date Posted: 04 Feb 17 at 17:53
Done the window surround:" rel="nofollow">

Also Jeysered the underside of the engine and box so I can tell how many leaks are left. Refilled the coolant and fitted the exhaust." rel="nofollow">
Found out why my new aux belt wouldnt tighten fully:" rel="nofollow - flubbered water pump

I see another order to brickwerks on the way for a new water pump.
It's still running rough, so a carb rebuild is in order, but brickwerks is out of stock of kits.
I've also been checking the electrics, I've removed a homemade split charge relay working off the charge light and fitted a rev counter.
Started filling.....

Posted By: fufflenarnia
Date Posted: 12 Feb 17 at 17:20
Waterpump fitted." rel="nofollow">
Choke pull down on carb is buggered, so need to order one of those.

Have fitted an oil pressure guage and rev counter in a brickwerks pod. Oil guage is fitted to a sandwich plate from ebay (£10), and ca me with the right threaded adaptor 3/4 unf." rel="nofollow">

All windows out, no welding required. Rust shot blasted and treated." rel="nofollow">" rel="nofollow">

Transfers removed, Fillathon underway:" rel="nofollow">" rel="nofollow">

Now, why is there expanding foam in the bottom of both cab doors? Is this a vw rust promotion method, luckily it hasn't worked!" rel="nofollow">

And to help it on the way I now have surround sound 5.1! A kind donation from a friend. I can even hear it over the sound of the sander!

I need to finish the prep and remove the doors and tailgate, then it's a clean up the garage and spray time!

Posted By: fufflenarnia
Date Posted: 18 Feb 17 at 18:20
Last of the welding done, a little bit more prep and it ready for spray:" rel="nofollow">

Choke pull down replaced, running a bit better, but still not 100%, I'm waiting for Brickwerks to get pierburg rebuild kits back in stock.

Working on plans for a gti converdion in the meantime.

Posted By: rowlesy
Date Posted: 18 Feb 17 at 20:07
there over rated - diesels the future ask hutch...... apparently it isnt just a lubricant LOL 

UberFukz broke another!       sucky sucky five dollah!

always out numbered never out gunned!    RWS welding 07846 380 467 (worcs)

Posted By: fufflenarnia
Date Posted: 18 Feb 17 at 20:14
Hmm, funny how things work isn't it, all of a sudden everyone turns against diesels, councils talk of banning them in town centres and Hutch decides he likes them.

I did think of going 1.8t, but I'm not sure I can be bothered with charge coolers and all that stuff. Having said that when I got it working properly on the pd, the difference was phenomenal! You could go straight on on any bend!

Posted By: mrhutch
Date Posted: 18 Feb 17 at 23:31
alright, point taken..

Got the westy, 
vanfest coming up
Olympic Tom and I finished throwing in a 77K 1.9D 1Y on the saturday morning
it goes, it stops, I can sleep in it
that oil burning thing can stay in the back for now.

it will only come out if replaced with something stupid.   audi v6 prolly..  get  a shift on rowlsey. 
Recently bought all the bits to turbo it, but couldn't do it..  it just works.

@steve - just stick a GTi in it and be done.  (or a 1.9D)

T3 1981 Westy Vanagon - thinks lubricant is a fuel

Posted By: Bromy
Date Posted: 18 Feb 17 at 23:35

"follow the masses, do the opposite"

Posted By: fufflenarnia
Date Posted: 19 Feb 17 at 09:31
Just need a diesel bell housing and starter/adaptor plate and TDI starter and a donor vehicle

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