VW T5 1.9 2006 desperately need help. Coolant loss
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Topic: VW T5 1.9 2006 desperately need help. Coolant loss
Posted By: heskethlmu
Subject: VW T5 1.9 2006 desperately need help. Coolant loss
Date Posted: 26 Jul 16 at 19:48
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Hi guys Im new to the VW world and am having what could be described as a nightmare. I know there are several topics on coolant loss but Ive even been to a VW specialist with this one. Here we go. I bought a 2006 T5 T28 1.9 engine van with the intention to convert for me and the missus to get out on road trips. Since week one it lost water on a motorway run every 30miles or so. Its been pressuring out of the header tank and down right side of engine bay. In addition it held pressure the morning after when cold. Several people on forums etc point towards the head gasket with it holding pressure. Tried a new header and cap. Nothing. Presssure test revealed no external water loss. Reluctantly the head came off. It was skimmed and an uprated gasket put on. Whilst they were at it had a new water pump and new cambelt put on. Back it came. For 350 miles it was fine then I went on a longer journey to try her out. Coolant light on again. Exact same symptoms as before. Water all over right side. Back it went to the mech. Head went back to be re checked for level and crack tested again. Both were fine. The gasket looked to have failed so putting it down to a bad gasket a different type was put on. I got it back again and again for 350-400 miles was fine on short motorway journey. No pressure the following day and no water loss. Ive recently been on a long journey and 145miles in coolant light came on. Back to square one. Water in all the same places. My mech is stumped and Ive been to VW who havnt heard anything like it. My mech and VW are talking down the lines of cracked blocks/head. The head has been checked and comes back fine. The temp has never gone 90 and the van drives perfectly otherwise. Its only done 73k. Any help would be massively appreciated.Please... |
Replies:
Posted By: gregozedobe
Date Posted: 27 Jul 16 at 03:19
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Hmmm, possibly a porous casting ? (and I'd be suspicious of the head or head gasket still, or the top of the block where the head gasket goes, as it does sound like combustion pressure is getting into the coolant system somewhere). And it must be getting towards time to take it to someone else to look at the problem as your current mech isn't able to find the source of the problem, despite several (expensive) attempts. Given the history, I'd be very tempted to try a stop leak type product. I'm not a fan of these types of goops, but "desperate times call for desperate measures". Please let us know how you get on (it can be frustrating to respond to requests for help if the person asking for help never comes back to tell us what the end solution was)
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Posted By: heskethlmu
Date Posted: 27 Jul 16 at 06:20
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Hi mate thanks for taking the time to reply. I will certainly put an end result on here if I get one. Re the gloop. Before taking the head off the second time we did drop some solx or similar in. This didnt touch it. Just blew out of the top again making the engine bay area brown. I have also dropped a different kind in whilst I was in Wales Ironate or similar. This one again still blows out the top nut does seem to have increased my MPLiter of water. Its frustrating as when he re did the gasket the second time he was certain he had seen where the gasket had faulted and to be fair it drove fine for a bit. Its like the gasket can hold the pressure for a certain amount of time then it goes back to square 1. By bad casting do you mean the block? |
Posted By: gregozedobe
Date Posted: 27 Jul 16 at 09:53
I would be looking at the head first (around the combustion chamber in particular, a porous casting has small imperfections in the metal that allow leakage, and is quite different to a crack). If it is a fault in the block I'd expect it to be in the area near where the head bolts on (as lower down there isn't the same pressure in the cylinder). Is it possible to get a leak-down compression test done ? And a parallel check of the pressure in the coolant system while you do it so you may be able to isolate which cylinder is leaking into the coolant. Of course just to make things difficult your engine may only leak when it is hot and running under heavy load. http://www.hotrod.com/how-to/engine/116-0406-cylinder-leakdown-tester/" rel="nofollow - http://www.hotrod.com/how-to/engine/116-0406-cylinder-leakdown-tester/ If you still can't find it then maybe a s'hand head or complete engine maybe more economical than continuing to chase something that can't be found.
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heskethlmu wrote:Posted By: T5 TDI
Date Posted: 27 Jul 16 at 12:44
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I know you said it always runs at 90 degrees but I would still eliminate everything else I could before going expensive! If it hasn't been done already, replace the thermostat. I think I'd run it for a week or so without the thermostat fitted. It should still be loosing water if it is the head or block. I don't have pay labour so it's easy for me to say but get the radiator flow tested in case it's blocked. It doesn't happen much these days but it's good to eliminate it. You can do a basic test with the radiator in place by checking for hot/cold spots where you can reach the fins. Keep your fingers away from the fan. If you have access to one of those infra-red thermometer guns you can run that over the radiator as a rough check. As a rule of thumb, once the engine is fully warm the top hose should be too hot to keep hold of for more than a second and the bottom hose slightly cooler. If this is the case and there are no isolated cold areas on the radiator it's less likely that the radiator is a problem. Make sure there are no obstructions (old bin liners etc) in front of the radiator. Check that the top and bottom hoses aren't collapsing internally or bent flat on the outside. Make sure the cooling fan is cutting in and out. If you have A/C, both fans should be on all the time the A/C is switched on. Get someone to drive it logging the coolant temp with VCDS or similar. Diagnostics shows the real coolant temp whereas the gauge doesn't show normal small variations as long as it's within the normal range. Have a look at the condition of the secondary coolant pump (under the floor) I can't see it causing your problem on it's own because they have often failed electrically on vans with no problems but you never know. Make sure your new cap functions correctly, it should tighten to a stop and then turn slightly more preferably with a positive click. Otherwise the safety vent device is still open and the bottle is not sealed. Have you had a test for combustion gasses in the coolant? Of course replace the water pump but you have already replaced that. Good luck!
------------- 2004 2.5 174 |
Posted By: heskethlmu
Date Posted: 30 Jul 16 at 21:43
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Hi thanks for your response I will get onto these things on my next days off. I dont think the gases in coolant check has been done but again I will have someone do this. Ive tried a couple of things to see if it means anything to anyone on here. The cap does turn to a click at the end. Ive run it tonight with the cap off well loose and it went from max to coolant sensor in 3 miles. 2 were motorway at 50mph. Put the cap back tight and ive got to work a other 7 miles its currently parked up but its probably lost a little looking at it. I did go to the shop earlier and its not far enough there and back to get the heat up to more than 70. When I lifted bonnet immediately after getting home I could hear the header bottle hissing so it appears to be pressuring up without being at full temp. Also with van at full temp I put heater on full heat and on 4. The heat coming out was so hot I couldn't keep my hand on it for long. Again needle showed 90. I will have a go at getting the stat off and testing it that like suggested. I really do appreciate it and I know there are always risks to buying second hand but I never thought it would get this much of a pain. Other than the head gasket is there anything on these that would cause it to hold pressure the following morning like it is. Because both times Ive had it back from having the head gasket replaced its not held pressure the following day. Until of course its gone again on the motorway. Cheers Neil |
Posted By: heskethlmu
Date Posted: 31 Jul 16 at 21:04
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Evening guys. The plot thickens with this thing. Tonight for the forst time the needle went over 90 on temp guage and the coolant light came on a few seconds later. I pulled onto the hard shoulder and needle dropped instantly. As i pulled off. I slowly released the cap and all the water had pressured down. It came back up to the max line as it should. Due to having to get to work I set off again. 3.miles on needle moved over again so I dropped my speed yo 50 from 60. The needle went back to 90 but coolant light came on again. Ive nursed it to work and am on days off from tomorrow. Ill be trying to get some work done on it. Im worried either a problem A got worse or like suggested B I need to be looking elsewhere like suggested. This is becoming a right debacle Ha. Cheers Neil |
Posted By: Boiler mike
Date Posted: 31 Jul 16 at 22:09
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Did you stat out and run Sounds like blockage you need to make sure all water ways are clear Has it all ways had coolent in Product on market called mirical seal Use it on boilers to seal exchange units will do head gaskets you will probably need two cans Regards Mike |
Posted By: heskethlmu
Date Posted: 01 Aug 16 at 00:57
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Hi not had stat out yet but will try do it this week. Its always had coolant in and Ive always stopped wothin a few miles of the coolany light coming on. I will have a look for a blockage. Cheers |
Posted By: heskethlmu
Date Posted: 01 Aug 16 at 08:00
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Hi Just got home from a night shift. Pulled up on the drive to do some checks suggested. At normal running temp as suggested the top pipe is red hot but the bottom pipe is pretty much cold. Not slightly cooler than top one. The bits of the rad I can touch hot at the top and cold at the bottom like a house radiator gets. Does this mean anything? The water presssured down but no sign of it coming out of the header tank. I did drive it home differently though due to the overheat last night. I went back roads much slower. No over heat and made it back without a water refill stop. Im going to have a go at draining the systems. Taking out the stat and checking for blockages over the next couple of days. Im a novice but Ill muddle my way through with the power of the Internet...... |
Posted By: Boiler mike
Date Posted: 01 Aug 16 at 08:28
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Good start Sounds like a big air lock / stat not opening Remove radiator cap run engine see if it bubbles back up Regards Mike |
Posted By: T5 TDI
Date Posted: 01 Aug 16 at 08:53
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It just proves that the flow isn't working correctly. It still could be any of the problems mentioned but you have to start with the thermostat. When you get it out, you should be able press the centre section open with your thumbs. Otherwise stick it in a cup of boiling water and make sure it is fully opens. If it doesn't you're on a winner! You should pre heat the cup so it doesn't cool the water. I'm surprised they didn't check the thermostat first. ------------- 2004 2.5 174 |
Posted By: heskethlmu
Date Posted: 01 Aug 16 at 09:02
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Thanks guys Ill get onto the stat later today or more likely tomorrow once Ive caught up on some sleep. Cheers Neil |
Posted By: heskethlmu
Date Posted: 02 Aug 16 at 17:55
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Hi guys the stat is out and Ive suspended it in a pan of water. It opens slowly from just under 90c onwards give or take on my meat thermoeter in the water. The stat keeps opening over 100c. My intention today was to run it with no stat in but getting the housing to seal is proving to difficult. I think im not getting it to seal square on with the O ring and block. Bit of an awkward place to get to. Ive flushed the block and radiator so water is clear coming out of them. By doing the rad I put a hose into top right as I look at van and water come out of the bottom right as we look at the van. The flow seems to be going in and out of the bottom fine. Is the water just flushing down the right hand side or going through the rad? Ill be back to fight with the van tomorrow. Cheers Neil |
Posted By: T5 TDI
Date Posted: 02 Aug 16 at 18:53
Shame the stat turns out to be working.  No you can't test the rad like that. It has to be flow tested by a rad firm. The water just finds a route that isn't blocked. I haven't seen one blocked for donkeys years but it is still possible. If you start the van cold with the cap off what happens? You might see the water pumping in to the bottle from the small pipe but if you see the surface bubbling up immediately the engine fires that is not good news. ------------- 2004 2.5 174 |
Posted By: heskethlmu
Date Posted: 02 Aug 16 at 19:05
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I cant say Ive checked the water when its running cold but I will check that when I refill it and run it. Is there anything to gain now from running with out the stat in? Or should I stick it back in when I get back onto it. The van is currently sat drained on my drive ready for the housing to go back with or without the stat. How/Who does flow tests on the Radiators? Cheers Neil |
Posted By: T5 TDI
Date Posted: 02 Aug 16 at 23:05
To make any flow or airlock issues less likely if you can leave the stat out it will make things easier. Under normal circumstances you would expect the coolant temp to run very low and the heater to be barley warm without the thermostat fitted. You mentioned about the the hot temperature of the air from the heater but that is normal, T5's have very good heaters!
Only the specialist radiator firms (google car radiators and discuss it with them). It would be unusual these days but it can't be ruled out. I feel your pain but a head or block crack is still a possibility. But given the cost of a new head or complete engine you might as well eliminate as much as you can especially if you can do most of the testing yourself. You can use plain water for now for all this messing about by the way. ------------- 2004 2.5 174 |
Posted By: heskethlmu
Date Posted: 02 Aug 16 at 23:34
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Thanks mate. Ill try get the housing back on without then and check for bubbles once I refilled it. According to the mech who did the head gasket, the has been for a skim and crack test twice. 1st time they took some off the second time it was still flat they just cleaned it. Both times it came back it ran fine and didnt lose a drop for the firdy 350-400 miles. Then all of sudden back to square on. Hey ho I will press on. This week. Yeah read about just using water for now. Cheers |
Posted By: heskethlmu
Date Posted: 02 Aug 16 at 23:36
Ive had 2 types of sealant stuff in the coolant system. Its doesnt even touch it. Pressures it all out of the top just like the coolant. |
Posted By: heskethlmu
Date Posted: 03 Aug 16 at 18:00
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Latest update. Got the stat housing back on and have refilled her with water for a run. Ive given it more than it would normally take to bring the coolant light. Not come on. Ive lifted the bonnet and the water has pressured down to just below the minimum line. It was dead on the max line. Turned the van off. Slowly opened the cap and it came back up. Set off for another run and put it under more pressure. No coolant light. As mentioned it struggled to get to near 90 temp. But it did get nearly there when back home. Opened the bonnet couldn't hear the cap hissing like before. The water has pressured down as before and looking through the bottle it seemed to be rippling sat idling on the drive. Also the top pipe was very hot and the bottom one similar. Not practically cold like the other day. I have not opened the top cap yet I was going to let it cool down under pressue. Tomorrow morning I intend on firing up the van cold with the cap off and look out for bubbles. Could it still be the stat even though it did open slowly when brought up to the boil in a pan. Neil |
Posted By: T5 TDI
Date Posted: 03 Aug 16 at 20:07
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Well it's possible. If it is behaving better it's worth driving it round a bit. It's certainly worth a new stat if it continues like that. I have seen stats opening late but more often they are jammed shut. It should have opened to a nice wide gap of about half a centimetre if it is opening fully. ------------- 2004 2.5 174 |
Posted By: heskethlmu
Date Posted: 03 Aug 16 at 20:24
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Its certainly behaving better but Ill give it a longer run out and check for the other stuff when its cold. The stat did open slowly that much but I dont know how quickly they should open. Cheers |
Posted By: T5 TDI
Date Posted: 03 Aug 16 at 21:45
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It should open within a few seconds of chucking it in the hot water but it would have to be quite slow opening to cause problems though unless it's not opening fully. Now you've had the engine at full temp without the stat in place and it cools overnight things should have settled down and it's unlikely there are any airlocks to muddy the waters so what happens in the bottle as you start the engine is critical. Get someone else to turn the key while you watch the bottle. If you see bubbles coming up the second the engine fires you're buggered. But don't worry about the feed from the water pump spluttering in at the top. ------------- 2004 2.5 174 |
Posted By: heskethlmu
Date Posted: 04 Aug 16 at 12:04
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This morning Ive opened the cap and it was pressured down still from last night. It fizzed up to the minimum line so the bit od water between max and min has gone somewhere. The missus started the van up for me cold with me looking in the header tank. No bubbling. No nothing in fact. Other than the gasket like loads of people have suggested in forums. Is there something else that could be making it hold so much pressure overnight? |
Posted By: T5 TDI
Date Posted: 04 Aug 16 at 22:14
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From your replies I think you have exhausted all of the sensible possibilities. I'd guess there is some leakage from the head because a cracked block is rare. It could be that a new head gasket seals it temporarily accounting for the improvement the day after. I think if it was my van and I was generally happy with the engine otherwise I'd look for second hand head complete with its cam and risk it but only if I was happy with the source. I wish I could be more positive! ------------- 2004 2.5 174 |
Posted By: heskethlmu
Date Posted: 05 Aug 16 at 11:50
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Yeah all fingers point there but its been skimmed and tested which have come back fine. I do fear you're right though. I just to weigh up if I should go for a full new block and head or just a head. Either way cant imagine it will be cheap. Some google searching is in order I think. Is there anything other than the head gasket that would make it hold presssue like it is doing so? This definitely stopped for a short while when the gasket was re done. Twice. Its like it can hold pressure for do long before letting go. Both times indentical amount of mileage before coolant light reared itd ugly head. |
Posted By: Boiler mike
Date Posted: 05 Aug 16 at 12:08
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When you run with out cap on does it bubble up through I still think you have flow issue When you heat water it expands systems suggest expansion not working correctly |
Posted By: gregozedobe
Date Posted: 05 Aug 16 at 12:08
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It might be worth pulling the head off (yet again) and looking very carefully to see if there are any signs of leakage. If there are, do what seems practical, if not then the question is what replacement is economically expedient - which will depend on a number of factors, main one being how long you intend to keep it (assuming repair is effective this time). Good luck (it must be time you had some good fortune)
 |
Posted By: heskethlmu
Date Posted: 05 Aug 16 at 13:30
With the cap off there is no bubbling in the water at all. Top and bottom pipes are similar temp wothout the stat. The water pressures down still to below min from the max line. Im going to stick a new stat in it when I take the housing off again next week. |
Posted By: heskethlmu
Date Posted: 05 Aug 16 at 13:33
If I can get it working then I intend on converting the back and having may years of camping out it. Just need my luck to change. Thats would be awesome.... |
Posted By: T5 TDI
Date Posted: 05 Aug 16 at 22:06
Theoretically on a sealed system the pressure should build up to 15 psi or so as the coolant warms and decrease to zero again when it's cold. Any pressure left when it's cold must have been introduced from some other source. ------------- 2004 2.5 174 |
Posted By: heskethlmu
Date Posted: 05 Aug 16 at 22:40
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Yeah thats my concern which is why we went with the head gasket. There clearly is a bigger problem that a new gasket twice is masking for a short time before going back to square 1. Im just not sure what to do at minute. The lad who has done my head twice has had it tested and skimmed twice. With it being fine for a while on short journeys, I wonder if prolonged periods of heat+pressure is causing it becuae both times its gone on the long journey. When they test heads for cracks is it done under pressure alone or heat also? |
Posted By: T5 TDI
Date Posted: 06 Aug 16 at 07:29
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I don't know much about what they do. I know there are different ways of testing including dyes and even ultrasonics. Not sure if they would test with the head hot, I suppose it depends on the kit they have got and how much you are prepared to pay. I see http://www.darksidedevelopments.co.uk/products/amc-cylinder-head-for-1-9-tdi-8v-pd-engines.html" rel="nofollow - http://www.darksidedevelopments.co.uk/products/amc-cylinder-head-for-1-9-tdi-8v-pd-engines.html are doing brand new bare heads for £425. Edit- You have to put in a reg no to get a price on the full head with a cam/lifters valves (but no injectors) I put a random reg for a 1.9 and it looks like £800.
 ------------- 2004 2.5 174 |
Posted By: heskethlmu
Date Posted: 06 Aug 16 at 10:23
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Thanks for that link. Id have to find someone to fit it all together and put the new one. I found this one online which linked me to ebay. Sounds good but Im no mechanic by any stretch of the imagination. £400 ----------- VOLKSWAGEN /SEAT/AUDI 1.9 TDi PD 8V FULLY RE-CON CYLINDER HEAD Year 2000 - onwards FITS GOLF / PASSAT / BORA / POLO / JETTA / TRANSPORTER /TOURAN / ECT ENGINE CODES AJM,ANU,ARL,AVQ,ASZ,AWX,ATD,AXD,ATJ,AXC, AUY,AXR,AVF,AVB,BDJ,BDK,BGW,BHW,BLT,BJB,BKC,BRU,BMM,BXE etc etc COMES COMPLETE WITH CAMSHAFT (where available)HYDRAULIC BUCKETS AND ROCKER SHAFT (FOR THE INJECTORS ) HEAD GASKET,INLET/ EXHAUST HEAD BOLTS AND WE WILL GIVE YOU A COPY OF HOW TO SET THR INJECTOR CLEARANCES :-) FULLY HOT PRESSURE TESTED AND CHECKED! CLEANSING DIPPED VALVE GUIDES CHECKED AND REPLACED IF REQUIRED VALVES REFACED OR REPLACED IF NECESSARY VALVES SEATS REFACED AND VACUUM TESTED HEAD REFACED BY THE MINIMUM AMOUNT ALL PARTS CLEANED AND ASSEMBLED FREE MAINLAND UK DELIVERY THIS DOES NOT INCLUDE IRELAND Your old head is required as an exchange unit and we will accept your old cylinder head no matter what it's condition, as long as it includes all the parts that our head came with. You will never be charged extra because your old head is damaged or has Bent valves even if your head is taken apart (as long as you put all of the parts in the box). We have no up-front core charge, you have 7 days to put your old unit in the box and we will send FedEx to collect it! 07717 642946 breakingbits@googlemail.com |
Posted By: T5 TDI
Date Posted: 06 Aug 16 at 14:12
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I don't think I would risk that especially for £400. Is the cam (if available!?) new? What are they doing with the old heads like yours that seem ok I wonder? If you're keeping the van you should probably bite the bullet and buy new. There is still the risk that it's a block crack but I think the head is more likely. All in all not a nice decision to have to make..
 ------------- 2004 2.5 174 |
Posted By: heskethlmu
Date Posted: 07 Aug 16 at 00:28
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Yeah its just something I found whilst on google. Its not the best situation I've been in. On the plus sideim cycling to work more and keeping fit.. I have seen a supply and fit of a full recon engine for 1800 inc vat. Not done enough digging yet to see how good this firm are. By getting a new head Im still taking a risk on the block and all the internals being fine. Brilliant engines I was told.Solid and reliable. Trist me to buy a lemon.... ha. I agree with tour thinking. 400 extra to go for a new head spread over 10 years is nowt. If the head is the problem. Knowing my luck ill have the only broken block in the land.... |
Posted By: T5 TDI
Date Posted: 07 Aug 16 at 09:55
Hope you find something decent.  You are right to do your research when it comes to engines.If you are having a complete engine don't forget to factor in possible ancillaries like possible clutch and DMF, gaskets and oil and filters. ------------- 2004 2.5 174 |
Posted By: heskethlmu
Date Posted: 07 Aug 16 at 10:48
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Thanks mate and cheers for your time also. Ill keep the thread updated. Even if I do just trade it in for something else..... |
Posted By: Scrawf
Date Posted: 15 Sep 16 at 12:36
| Hi im new to this and first post,i thinj ive got exactly the same problem on my t5,my thermostat just wont open at all!!also replaced rad thermostat,headgasket,waterpump.....problem still there!!i removed the thermostat to check and make sure rad is not blocked!!once engine fully warm which did take a while i noticed that rad and both pipes were hot!!however the two pipes going to the underside of the van were stone cold well one goes down and one comes up,i removed the pipe where it enters the heater system and water was not flowing fully out so blocked it with my thumb (boiling hot so be carfull)removed and air/water was gushing!refitted pipe and now the heater pipes are now hot!!i am going to refit thermostat and make sure i bleed the system fully as i am conviced there was airlocked in there and prey this is the fix!i will update post!! |
Posted By: heskethlmu
Date Posted: 15 Sep 16 at 13:00
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Hi mate. Mine is still pressuring up without the stat in place. Further to that my coolant is pressuring right down and the pressure is held overnight and for days after until I open the cap and it all comes back up again, all be it needing a top up having only done 12 miles. Nightmare mate. Currently looking at a whole new engine and re fitting my ancillaries onto it. Either way not cheap.... |
Posted By: Scrawf
Date Posted: 15 Sep 16 at 15:59
| Ahh my misunderstanding,mine was pressuring and coming out the head tank but head gasket has solved the pressure just still somthing stoping the thermostat opening!have u done a sniffer test??im trying to convince myself its not the engine prob the same as u have been!have u tried taking away the heating system? |
Posted By: heskethlmu
Date Posted: 15 Sep 16 at 17:09
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Not treid any of that and like yours for the 1st 300-400 mile all was well with it after having the head done. It was on its.first long journey after the thing went again..... twice. Think its off to a VW specialist next week. They are going to re ivestigate to make sure the other garage has done everything right. If so fine they will sort it. If not they will source and fit a new lump. Or fit one I find. To be continued...... |
Posted By: Scrawf
Date Posted: 15 Sep 16 at 21:58
| Ok mate,keep me uodated 👍and good luck |
Posted By: Scrawf
Date Posted: 04 Oct 16 at 09:31
| any update on the van mate? |
Posted By: heskethlmu
Date Posted: 04 Oct 16 at 13:52
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Hi mate. No update at minute. Ive sent it into a VW specialist they are going to run some tests and assuming they dont find anything obvious the other garage has missed they are going to swap my lump for a recon one. They are quite busy I took it in Friday and they will start looking at it tomorrow or Thursday. I will be ringing them Monday to see what script is with it. Its not gonna be cheap I dont think mate. I will add something on here when I have an update. So many threads dont come to a conclusion. I wont be one of those. Watch this space.... |
Posted By: Big bob
Date Posted: 16 Nov 16 at 21:47
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Hi any update? I've exactly the same problem with the header tank pressurising and holding pressure. New tank and genuine thermostat fitted, passed the sniff test twice and has driven through France without going over 90 degrees.the interesting thing is I eventually managed to get it to show up on a sniff test by holding the rev's at say 4k and then backing off the throttle, this showed up the back pressure but why only as you come off throttle. Explains why I can do 500 mile and only use a cup full of water yet the same amount in 2 days round town. 1.9 diesel on a 2005 Any idea's |
Posted By: Big bob
Date Posted: 16 Nov 16 at 21:51
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Ps I've tried steel seal and use ultraviolet to work out it was blowing out the bottom of the header tank. Thanks paul |
Posted By: heskethlmu
Date Posted: 14 Jan 17 at 12:22
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Hey guys I know its been a while but Ive got the van back today. The verdict was the gasket had failed for a second time. I was told by the first mech they had used a different type the second time becuase the first gasket clearly failed. The VW specialist I used called the supply firm and it appears they used a BGA gasket twice. Before they called they quized me about what brand of gasket etc had been used. They said they have had loads of problems with BGA. So for this round of works I was heading down the engine swap route but asked them to take the head off in the process and check it. The gasket appeared to have blown again. They did also find the internals of the radiator had collapsed also. The head has been sent off again and rechecked. Its fine. So both engineers checked it properly. The guys doing the work this time round didnt find fault at the any of the workmanship of the first mech. The only fault being the brand of gasket. In the process they cut the heater out of the loop so it was definitely in the block. EGR has been cleaned. Coolant system flushed. Fingers crossed they have got the problem sorted with a genuine gasket. Has anyone heard of issues with BGA gaskets? Cheers Neil |
Posted By: gregozedobe
Date Posted: 14 Jan 17 at 19:37
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Thanks for getting back to us with an update. I hope you have many miles of trouble-free motoring ahead of you. I can't comment about BGA gaskets as I have no knowledge either way.
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Posted By: heskethlmu
Date Posted: 14 Jan 17 at 23:05
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Thanks mate. So do I. Cheers Neil |
Posted By: Saladodger
Date Posted: 15 Jan 18 at 18:56
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Hi One year on was the problem solved once and for all? I am having the same exact issue now. Regards |
Posted By: heskethlmu
Date Posted: 15 Jan 18 at 19:35
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Hi mate. Yep I have just taken it back to the same garage that sorted it out for an MOT. Passed again 3 years running, well chuffed. She is running lovely and I have done about 8-9k this year. Anyone in the West Heaven area with a problem I can highly recommend IVC in the Stourton area of Leeds. Audi/VW specialists they have been brilliant with me. Make sure you get a genuine gasket if that which way you are going with it. Check the radiator in the process. If I can be of any help. Although I am not a mechanic in the slightest I'll try talk through symptoms etc. Good luck. |
Posted By: Saladodger
Date Posted: 15 Jan 18 at 22:26
| Great news. I’m suffering coolant loss to the point of refilling every 300 Miles or so. No overheating. Coolant system over pressurising and spitting coolant all over engine bay. Coolant hoses going rock hard and staying that way after turning everything off. Everything says head gasket but my garage have replaced HG before only for problem to return, so reluctant to take my cash for the HG job. Sounds very similar to your issue. My garage claimed that the 1.9 head doesn’t take well to being skimmed and this affects the ability for the replacement gasket to sit properly. Three options....HG replacement, donor engine or recon’d engine......???? |
Posted By: heskethlmu
Date Posted: 16 Jan 18 at 11:41
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I looked at and was at the point of getting a recon engine until these lads looked at it. My symptoms seemed a bit worse than that. I could probably get 300 or so if I used slow roads but most my commute was motorway. The water light could come on after 2 miles or so on motorway. Initially I had no overheating until towards the end 3 months or so. When you park it up over night then go back to it does it fizz up when the cap is released. Mine would hold pressure for a day at it's worst. The lads said the radiator had collapsed inside which wasn't helping the flow/pressure in the system. Coupled with a BAG gasket they wouldn't touch kept making it go again. New rad and genuine gasket have sorted the problem. For me. |
Posted By: Saladodger
Date Posted: 16 Jan 18 at 12:08
| Yes it holds pressure until cap is released then bubbles up violently.. gonna give em a call. Cheers |
Posted By: Saladodger
Date Posted: 16 Jan 18 at 12:21
| What do you think it cost you for the legit HG and radiator? |
Posted By: heskethlmu
Date Posted: 16 Jan 18 at 13:08
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Sounds very similar. I can't remember the price but they did confirm the guys who did my HG he first time had done it all properly just used a rubbish BGA gasket. They re skimmed to the max level but their engineers said it was still flat. Then they put the thickest Gaskets made for this engine. They did tell me they would only use genuine VW parts when doing the work. It was still a bit of a gamble because they only did a bit of a visual check of the block. (That was another mechanics trail of thought). They were confident of the radiator and gasket combination being the issue. I'm out at minute but I'll dig out the receipt later/tomorrow. 2200 inclusive springs to mind. They are a proper specialist place not back street. That MOT in that too though. |
Posted By: heskethlmu
Date Posted: 16 Jan 18 at 13:10
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A few people on here mentioned there are places to check the rad flow rate. Might be worth checking that out before swapping it. Keep us posted. |
Posted By: Saladodger
Date Posted: 17 Jan 18 at 05:05
| The guy at IVC remembers you, just from the BGA reference!amyway could you remind me, were you getting any issues with overhearing? If so was this from the start of your van playing up or a later issue that developed? Cheers |
Posted By: heskethlmu
Date Posted: 17 Jan 18 at 08:09
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Yeah mate. I've got a bright red van and work nearby. I went in loads too. Whilst chatting about it before doing the work and trying to trouble shoot brand of gasket was raised and they said BGA before touching it. I asked my previous mech who confirmed BGA. He asked about waterpump too. This was changed the first time I had the HG done and was checked when it went to IVC and found to be fine. No heating at all at start. HG done then got 300-400 miles. Back to square one. Back to same guy. HG re done. Same distance covered then went again. Exact same symptoms with no over heating. It was a good few months before I took it in finally to IVC I went to various garages. Went to IVC a good few times. In the meantime I ran it for a while with no thermostat in. This helped with pressure/heat but the problem got worse and then the overheating came. I could drive on slow roads to work ok. But motorway would pressure all the water out before it overheated. Then it overheated. Apologise if I'm repeating myself I just remember what I originally put in the thread. I got a lot of suggestions off this forum I seem to remember. |
Posted By: Marchman
Date Posted: 14 Nov 18 at 02:05
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Hi mate, sounds like exactly the same thing is happening to me. Losing water, but no evidence of where it goes. The more pressure it gets under ie down the motorway it loses water, but using it round town at low speeds was fine in comparison. Then you hear the suction when you cut the engine & check the coolant & it reappears. Various mechanics have looked at it, worked on in & had there own opinion. Had numerous gas leak tests( if that’s what they’re called ) with the dye not changing colour so apparently not Head gasket. So had new water pump, new radiator, new thermostat but was advised to leave it out as to get more water flow. Still had problems doing exactly the same thing . Then was advised to have new head bolts wound in sequence as it might be head lift from stretched bolts, so got some 150 head bolts from dark side developments & had a mech do the job & thought it had solved it but after a week back to same problems. I then agreed for the guy to get the head off & tested but kept me hanging for months to do the work rather than telling me he can’t/won’t do it. So had some local mechanics look at it last week, they of course have to do there prolimerary checks despite any previous history & they seem to think it’s a blockage so flushed system through & gradually got more & more shit out, the heater matrix was clogged up too apparently also with a hose clip not connected so could be letting air in I was told. They refitted the new stat & said just try it! had it back for 4 days now took it to work local, everything fine. Haven’t had to fill the bottle but not had a chance to push the van yet, so today with no weight in the back had it up to 75-80 for about 30 secs looked down & saw the temp gauge up to 120 so immediately backed it off & the temp gauge returned to 90. It got me home another 3 miles then checked the coolant & the bottle was empty. The coolant warning light hadn’t come in though. So I’m guessing after reading your similar experiences that I need the head off & skimmed if necessary & a new gasket but not a BGR one? Thanks for any advice you can offer. |
Posted By: Saladodger
Date Posted: 14 Nov 18 at 06:38
| Silly question but the one thing you haven’t mentioned is the auxiliary water pump, probe to failure! It’s situated under the van almost under the passenger seat. See if you can see any coolant drips. A catastrophic loss of coolabt like that means serious leak. There’s also a pipe that runs in front of the block that corroded but you would see a lot of wet in the engine bay. The aux pump is situated so that if it fails the coolant pisses out onto the road and by the time you pull over there are no readily obvious signs except for the odd pink coloured drip hanging off the underside somewhere. Let me know how you go. Certainly sounds almost head gasket related. If not the pump and If you’re on the Facebook T5 forum run the symptoms by John Homles. Good luck. |
Posted By: heskethlmu
Date Posted: 14 Nov 18 at 10:16
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Hi mate. You seem to be having an identical nightmare with it. I'm no mech but the final time I got it seen to they put on a genuine VW gasket and said BGR are rubbish. He named it before I told him that's what had been used. They did their own checks too and found the rad was rotten inside and had collapased. This knackered the flow etc. The 2nd and then final time the head didn't need a skim. The BGR gasket had clearly let go. So combination of a new rad a and proper gasket solved my issue. I am 13k miles down the line now and no issues again. I could clearly see under the bottle there was a load of light brown/red residue all over the place. Have a good look right underneath the bottle. I did a lot of asking around and a quite a few people have been spot on with diagnoses. Get the van up to temp. Park it up to go stone cold overnight ideally. Go back to it and open the coolant cap. If there is a hiss/pressure release its a good indication of the head, head gasket or block holding that pressure. I was lucky it was gasket only but had a few mechanics and few K to find that out. The BGR gasket might have worked with a properly working rad but for peace if mind I would get a genuine part. Sounds like you have changed everything else I was directed to. If you're planning on seeing it through and having the van for a long time it might be worth chucking a new rad on??? The front end has to come off to sort the head anyway I think. The symptoms did improve with a new rad but the gasket had gone. I'm just kind of summarising the advice I was given on here and what finally worked. I'm not talking from any kind of mechanical background. (await shots fired by people in the know) Keep the thread posted mate. It's good to know what solved the problems. Cheers Neil |