Fitting Ebay Manifold AXE & AXD
Printed From: The Brick-yard
Category: T5 Section
Forum Name: T5 Chat
Forum Description: Forum for T5 specific chat
URL: http://www.brick-yard.co.uk/forum/forum_posts.asp?TID=89140
Printed Date: 20 Apr 24 at 12:19
Software Version: Web Wiz Forums 12.06 - https://www.webwizforums.com
Topic: Fitting Ebay Manifold AXE & AXD
Posted By: T5 TDI
Subject: Fitting Ebay Manifold AXE & AXD
Date Posted: 01 Apr 15 at 12:56
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Just wanted to mention a few things about my experience of fitting an ebay cast iron manifold. I fitted the http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/NEW-EXHAUST-MANIFOLD-VW-TRANSPORTER-T5-VOLKSWAGEN-TRANSPORTER-T5/131471607556?_trksid=p2047675.c100011.m1850&_trkparms=aid%3D222007%26algo%3DSIC.MBE%26ao%3D1%26asc%3D29952%26meid%3D59f6d3aac78543898852b1f86c9b9e36%26pid%3D100011%26rk%3D1%26rkt%3D10%26sd%3D131424036970" rel="nofollow - auction version as opposed to the http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/191086724524?_trksid=p2060353.m1438.l2649&ssPageName=STRK%3AMEBIDX%3AIT" rel="nofollow - 'Buy It Now' one. The one I fitted came with manifold-to-head and turbo-to-block gaskets but no turbo to manifold (EGR connection) gasket. The original tin manifold wasn't designed with one. You can buy it http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/GASKET-SET-KIT-TURBOCHARGER-TURBO-CHARGER-VW-TRANSPORTER-BUS-T5-MK-5-2-5-TDI-/321667535046?pt=LH_DefaultDomain_3&fits=Model%3ATransporter&hash=item4ae4e110c6" rel="nofollow - here. Because these aftermarket manifolds don't have the flexible EGR flange of the original, space to slide the turbo in is very limited and it's necessary to have the manifold fitted but not tightened before fitting the turbo. In fact, only put the nuts on with a nut full of thread (no more) on each. This way you can tie the manifold up to the bonnet catch which keeps it as high as possible giving you maximum clearance to get the turbo in. Take the advice in the pdf about tying up the two spacers and the round seal and gasket to stop them dropping off the manifold whilst fitting. I can breathe in the van now. And it definitely goes better. ------------- 2004 2.5 174 |
Replies:
Posted By: Properjob1960
Date Posted: 30 Apr 15 at 09:40
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Hi, I've just taken delivery of one and plan to fit at the weekend so your posting gives me a little more confidence. Mine came with the full gasket set and a small syringe - do you know what that's for? Is it for priming the Turbo with oil when you re-fit it? If so do you know how this should be done? Thanks. |
Posted By: T5 TDI
Date Posted: 30 Apr 15 at 18:35
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Welcome PJ! Hope you will stick around, it's gone a bit quiet here lately. Yes the syringe is for priming the turbo. I think they are assuming you are fitting a new dry turbo. Any extra oil a turbo gets is a good thing but I think most of it will end up dripping on your head. The main thing is to idle the engine on start up for a good few minutes giving good oil pressure but little turbo speed. The most difficult part of the job is sandwiching the turbo between the lower oil feed 'seating' that sticks out of the block and the new (upper) (inflexible) EGR connection on the new manifold. If you don't follow the correct order in the pdf you will struggle. The manifold must be loose and hung up on string or you will damage the gasket. If you do it the right way it's not too bad. Allow time and drink lots of tea. If you get stuck feel free to pm me or be brave and post here and get the wealth of all of the brick-yard's members T5 knowledge. ------------- 2004 2.5 174 |
Posted By: Properjob1960
Date Posted: 30 Apr 15 at 20:37
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Thanks T5. I had some spare time this afternoon so I've taken everything apart and hopefully get it back together at the weekend. I managed to get everything undone ok using the notes on this forum, don't thing I would have attempted without them, was still very tricky getting the Turbo out and eventually got the manifold out around it and lifted Turbo away afterwards. Tricky enough getting out so I'm sure will be even harder getting back in. I did notice that the Cast manifold is 3 or 4mm shorter in depth at back of cylinder 2 which is the point where it was fouling the Turbo output pipe when I was taking it out so hopefully this will help. Yes I'll follow the pdf instructions very carefully and thanks for the tip to leave idling for a while after first startup. I'll post again when I'm done - hopefully sometime soon! 
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Posted By: T5 TDI
Date Posted: 30 Apr 15 at 22:18
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You are clearly past the halfway mark :-) No broken studs or other horrors. Re the new style manifold clearance- I had no problems with that although everything is very close there and it's a wangle to get it all in place. The new manifold pdf instructions say to abandon the bottom half of the heat shield and include some detailed instructions to cut down the top half to ease access to the manifold nuts. I left the bottom off as instructed but left the top half uncut because you can simply knock a socket on to the nuts reshaping the heat shield slightly where necessary. ------------- 2004 2.5 174 |
Posted By: Properjob1960
Date Posted: 01 May 15 at 22:57
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Well I got there in the end though I seemed to experience different difficulties to others. Everything came apart reasonably ok, managed to get to all the tricky bolts using a smaller 3/8 drive socket set so this may be a useful tip for others. Once manifold and Turbo were loose I managed to wiggle and get the manifold out first, then the Turbo. I didn't remove engine mount as it wasn't really in the way, if anything it was the "air output" tube of Turbo fouling against the Servo which caused most problems. What a job getting the Turbo back in though, I'm convinced it had grown overnight! Probably spent 2 hours doing the Hokey Kokey before I eventually got it in. The PDF instructions said to retain manifold loosely with nuts then lift and tie. This didn't work for me and after lots of struggling I tried a different approach as follows. Place Turbo roughly in place then push across towards the r/h inner wing as far as you can. Next bring the manifold in to place as much as you can, then by wiggling them both you can just about get the manifold on to the studs (but Turbo still out of position and leaning back on the bulkhead. I the used a thin luggage strap on back of manifold looped around the wiper arm and tensioned such that manifold is horizontal and slides/swings along the threads of studs. What followed then was combined moving of manifold and Turbo for 5 mins and hey presto they fitted together! With a little more jiggery pokery I managed to get all the flanges lined up and commenced bolting it all together. Unknown to me at the time I was still not out of the woods. The final sting in the tail was trying to get the exhaust-to-turbo clamp in place - this took about an hour! Finally all running and NO FUMES YAY!!! All in all a pretty tricky task, I have big respect for VW Mechanics but little respect for the designers! I'd certainly recommend the cast iron manifold, it's very much more substantial than the VW version and a bit cheaper too! |
Posted By: T5 TDI
Date Posted: 02 May 15 at 21:12
Well done on completing a truly awkward job!  And thanks for actually bothering to come back to us with your thoughts. Everyone's take on work on this unusual engine is appreciated by me at least.I took my manifold once off once before without taking the engine mounting off but I found it much easier with it out of the way. I think it helps mostly with the reach to the splined lower turbo bolts. Maybe if you have long arms you wouldn't notice but it does generally clear the area and make for better general visibility. That turbo pipe (part of the turbo of course) does seem to be magnetically attracted to the servo but it always goes into place in the end with enough attempts. This is absolutely not a job for anyone impatient! For anyone else following this thread- Whichever way you chose to do this job it’s important not to mangle the triangular aluminium turbo to block gasket while you are working the manifold and turbo into place, because it could result in serious oil leak. With the new aftermarket cast manifolds there is much less room for the turbo than the original because of the lack of the flexible EGR connection mentioned above so you are effectively squeezing the turbo in between two blocks of metal with only about 1mm clearance. All good fun eh? ------------- 2004 2.5 174 |
Posted By: Properjob1960
Date Posted: 03 May 15 at 01:05
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Yes I must say that the Triangular Gasget of Trouble was quite a challenge, I was expecting the lugs to say goodbye given the number of attemptes it took, but it somehow held together right to the end. I cannot emphasise enough the quality of the cast manifold compared to the original VW part which in comparision looks like it's made from recycled baked bean cans! |
Posted By: The Transporter
Date Posted: 06 May 15 at 21:06
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That cast manifold is the part that VW should have fitted from day one rather than the piece of shit that they did use.. ------------- 2004 174bhp AXE engine..... Belligerence has been confirmed. |
Posted By: T5 TDI
Date Posted: 06 May 15 at 21:40
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I agree. I'm thoroughly enjoying breathing again! ------------- 2004 2.5 174 |
Posted By: Iceworx
Date Posted: 07 May 15 at 01:07
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I' about to tackle this job myself. I didn't find mine on eBay though, i sourced it from DarkSide developments. Did you guys take the turbo out from underneath. or all from the top? ------------- T5 130 LWB 2.5 TDi - Becoming a camper http://www.realgraffix.blogspot.co.uk/" rel="nofollow - T5 Camper Build Blog |
Posted By: T5 TDI
Date Posted: 07 May 15 at 07:39
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Turbo out from underneath. Best of luck! Ask here if you hit a snag. ------------- 2004 2.5 174 |
Posted By: Iceworx
Date Posted: 07 May 15 at 15:15
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Thank you, Im hoping to start this, this weekend :) Weather permitting :) ------------- T5 130 LWB 2.5 TDi - Becoming a camper http://www.realgraffix.blogspot.co.uk/" rel="nofollow - T5 Camper Build Blog |
Posted By: The Transporter
Date Posted: 07 May 15 at 21:46
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It's a doddle once you have done it a couple of times... ------------- 2004 174bhp AXE engine..... Belligerence has been confirmed. |
Posted By: Iceworx
Date Posted: 07 May 15 at 23:30
I'm very much hoping I've only got to do this once! ------------- T5 130 LWB 2.5 TDi - Becoming a camper http://www.realgraffix.blogspot.co.uk/" rel="nofollow - T5 Camper Build Blog |
Posted By: T5 TDI
Date Posted: 08 May 15 at 08:02
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Be sure to replace the manifold nuts just in case!! ------------- 2004 2.5 174 |
Posted By: Iceworx
Date Posted: 08 May 15 at 09:56
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Im replacing the studs too, the kit I got from Darkside, came with nuts studs and all gaskets etc :) ------------- T5 130 LWB 2.5 TDi - Becoming a camper http://www.realgraffix.blogspot.co.uk/" rel="nofollow - T5 Camper Build Blog |
Posted By: T5 TDI
Date Posted: 08 May 15 at 13:48
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The Darkside kit includes everything and although it costs more than the fleabay version I reckon they will be more help with any fitting problems or warranty. Hope the studs all come out ok! Two nuts locked together? Or have you got the posh tool? ------------- 2004 2.5 174 |
Posted By: Iceworx
Date Posted: 08 May 15 at 23:03
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I have a friend with the posh tool I never saw the ebay ones, but this was only £310 inc delivery, which I didnt think was too bad. ------------- T5 130 LWB 2.5 TDi - Becoming a camper http://www.realgraffix.blogspot.co.uk/" rel="nofollow - T5 Camper Build Blog |
Posted By: Iceworx
Date Posted: 16 May 15 at 22:20
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Hi guys, I've got everything fitted today and it all went with no major dramas. However I seem to have a slightly odd thing now. When pulling away stand still I can hear what sounds like an air leak, which as the turbo spools up seems to get louder, then before the boost kicks in it sounds like a valve shuts off and the leak stops. It boosts normally, pulls well, and is t smoking etc But it definitely did not do this before the manifold replacement. Any ideas where I should be looking please chaps? ------------- T5 130 LWB 2.5 TDi - Becoming a camper http://www.realgraffix.blogspot.co.uk/" rel="nofollow - T5 Camper Build Blog |
Posted By: T5 TDI
Date Posted: 16 May 15 at 23:12
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Check the large turbo pipe joints you removed. I'd almost put money on a boost leak given your description. If you really floor it, the leaking joint will probably identify itself by popping off! Make sure the big clips are fully home (click!) and you haven't fitted the clip on the wrong way round. ------------- 2004 2.5 174 |
Posted By: Iceworx
Date Posted: 18 May 15 at 09:51
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You sir were indeed correct, seems the big boost pipe was not fully seated from the intercooler. Quick clean up and made sure the clip was 100% fully seated, and it's back to normal. Thank you for your help ------------- T5 130 LWB 2.5 TDi - Becoming a camper http://www.realgraffix.blogspot.co.uk/" rel="nofollow - T5 Camper Build Blog |
Posted By: T5 TDI
Date Posted: 18 May 15 at 11:51
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I'm really pleased with my cast manifold. They're not particularly easy to fit given the loss of the flexible EGR connection so congratulations on joining the club! ------------- 2004 2.5 174 |
Posted By: Iceworx
Date Posted: 18 May 15 at 12:10
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Thanks, I was shocked at how easily the van came apart, and was lucky enough not to shear any studs off. Getting the manifold-turbo gasket aligned was a bit tricky, but managed it eventually. As for the EGR pipe, it took a bit of persuasion, but it's back in place now. I was contemplating blanking it off, but if I do, does it need to be written out of the ECU? Thanks ------------- T5 130 LWB 2.5 TDi - Becoming a camper http://www.realgraffix.blogspot.co.uk/" rel="nofollow - T5 Camper Build Blog |
Posted By: T5 TDI
Date Posted: 18 May 15 at 12:35
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If it's the vacuum operated EGR which it must be as you had the original tin manifold like mine (AXE or AXD engines) you can just blank it off. The electronic EGR's on engines with DPF's will cause an EML and need remapping. I've left my EGR on because I tow a lot and I worry about the higher exhaust gas temps without the EGR flow.
------------- 2004 2.5 174 |
Posted By: Iceworx
Date Posted: 18 May 15 at 16:21
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That's good to know. I thought it'd read about it needing "Mapping Out" after blanking, but if that's not the case. I'm tempted to leave it for now, as it's not causing me any issues. I guessthere is no real performance / economy gains to be had by blanking it off? ------------- T5 130 LWB 2.5 TDi - Becoming a camper http://www.realgraffix.blogspot.co.uk/" rel="nofollow - T5 Camper Build Blog |
Posted By: clemo
Date Posted: 21 Jan 24 at 16:00
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Hi All , Just about to start this job on my 2.5 AXD . Bought a kit from ebay but not sure about the two top side of the plates that sit on the solid cast of the manifold , what order they go , i presume the large taper is facedown for the ring to sit in before bolting to turbo , im not sure i have the correct ring either mine is a tapered mesh ring and i cans see how the turbo would bolt to it . and help or a PDF you have mentioned would be great .... im in two minds as a while ago i found an old darkside manifold i think with flexible EGR connector , maybe it would be better to use this ? Thanks all ------------- clemo |
Posted By: clemo
Date Posted: 21 Jan 24 at 16:06
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Hi All , Just about to start this job on my 2.5 AXD . Bought a kit from ebay but not sure about the two top side of the plates that sit on the solid cast of the manifold , what order they go , i presume the large taper is facedown for the ring to sit in before bolting to turbo , im not sure i have the correct ring either mine is a tapered mesh ring and i cans see how the turbo would bolt to it . and help or a PDF you have mentioned would be great .... im in two minds as a while ago i found an old darkside manifold i think with flexible EGR connector , maybe it would be better to use this ? Thanks all
------------- clemo |