Picked up this AFN  for £150 pretty much complete bar the MAF. My first thought for it was to break it all up and stick it in the garage for spares. Seeing it in daylight though has been a surprise, its in pretty good nick (previous owner swore 50 tho on the clock, don't quite believe that..)

Turns out its got the oil seperator ive been looking for

a much better looking turbo than whats on mine

and the correct fuel filter bracket, so i can mount it back on the engine instead of in the T3 location. This will mean i can move the overflow coolant tank up to the old filter location, then run better routed air ducting, and will also allow me to use passat fuel filter head and short pipes to the inj pump which look like this

 It also has lots of little brackets that hold the loom onto the engine, to get it all tidy like.

Toying with the idea of converting to the passat coolant layout, much neater looking, just need top and bottom rad hoses and coolant tank.

 Anyway plan is to swap bits over between engines, rebuild the VNT (decoke the vanes) rebuild the head, swap the auto flywheel for a standard one and end up with 2 good engines and hopefully learnt new skills on rebuilding stuff.

 There will be plenty of stupid questions on the way as ive never stripped an engine, or turbo or even taken a flywheel off.

just need to sort a engine stand out.

 should be fun

Would like the 750 due to being a bit more stable. i'm not to far from you (cheam)

pic of the waterpump/alternator/powersteering/crank  belt shizzle please..

need to find a solution to belt woes on the 20VT

sounds good! almost a done deal then

will do, hopefully sort it for you tomorrow. 

Piccy of the two different breather set ups

and now fitted to the van

then fitted the little loom mount which sits on top of the coolant flange

then spent the next half hour trying to get the coolant flange to stop leaking

may well be shagger..  got to look and compare against the 20V

thanks marra

yep that's it, you can still buy all the parts new, around 90 odd quid

 

have you ordered a complete JX oil seal in it's ally casing cos the afn one is very different to the jx one. I made this mistake, and ended up cleaning, "nourishing", and replacing the original. Risky, but it's been fine.

i don't think it's a 130 inlet, rather a 100, or possibly a 115. will take a photo and get it up.

 

You'd better concentrate on your rockets!!

 Removed the inlet manifold to get at the last nut, so thats going to be boxed up and sent to midland turbo as mine is pissing oil out everywhere now, boost pipes swimming in oil

one thing i have noticed is how much bigger the turbo oil drain id is compared to mine, will have to make a much bigger one for when the new turbo goes on

What i was thinking of doing was getting one of those pd manifolds which instead of getting just a pipe to fit on, is to get this welded on  http://www.forgemotorsport.co.uk/content.asp?inc=product&cat=0016&product=FMMAPT" rel="nofollow - http://www.forgemotorsport.co.uk/content.asp?inc=product&cat=0016&product=FMMAPT

which the MAP sensor can fit into, it will also mean the EGR comes off completely and tidies up that section of pipework.

 I wanted to muck around doing this stuff on the spare engine first, guess i'll just have to it to both

so if you see any pd manifolds going cheap, let me know

The PD manifold turned up

as did the MAP pipe

The plan is to either get them welded together like this

or tho fit a race pipe/egr delete to the manifold, which is made for for the job  http://www.darksidedevelopments.co.uk/products/darkside-1-9-8v-tdi-pd105-pd130-pd150-egr-delete-race-pipe-57mm.html" rel="nofollow - http://www.darksidedevelopments.co.uk/products/darkside-1-9-8v-tdi-pd105-pd130-pd150-egr-delete-race-pipe-57mm.html

then fit the MAP pipe with a silicone joiner to the end of the chargecooler, then a 180 bend onto the above race pipe. Cost wise i reckon it will work out the same, what with paying someone to weld the two bits together. It's more what will fit in better, as space is a bit limited

got some stuff from brickwerks as well, shit plate

and the thing that made me laugh, spigot bearing

i thought it was about the size of a bake bean can

but at least i can see the difference

before

after

brake cleaner and a toothbrush! might have to take it down the jet wash to reach right inside

Black aeroquip fittings, so not to spangly

Basic plan is to come out of the sump with a 90 bend, and up to the turbo with a 45 deg flange. When i tried this before i couldn't get a AN-10 fitting onto the turbo due to clearance issues, this time i've got a much better fitting which is basically a push on barb. I'll post a pic when it arrives

whats the best thing to use to seal a threaded fitting on a oil carrying pipe, is ptfe ok? or is there something more commonly used for auto use like a sealing compound??

the banjo to fit to the original AFN turbo oil return so the oil seperator drains to the block and not a catch can

with a mann provent oneway valve to stop the block venting back up out the banjo

flywheel also arrived to day, thanks to vealmonkey.. 

Half tempted to fit the flywheel and poo plate to the engine in the van, it'll all be my own work on the van then. Not filled with confidence on removing the engine though

The Allard egr delete pipe arrived as well, cheers for the link mr caddy

Midland turbo did a fantastic job on my turbo, almost looks new

 Found out this evening that the pd manifold needs the mount cut off the top of it as it fouls the chargecooler, not really an issue though

That inc new bearings and oil seals 

038129713AG

Do you know if ptfe tape is ok to use on a threaded fitting for oil? 

 Just some silicone hose

and a few 3/4" barbed elbows for the breather pipe. (i'm using see thru' pipe for this, so i can see how well the oil sep works.

 Amazingly the wife has ok'd me to get this all fitted on Sunday(it's our wedding anniversary!?!?) i'm a bit freaked by that, but shant argue.

 The turbo came off pretty easy, not one seized nut!

The oil i could see dripping out the turbo looks like it was coming from the oil drain, can see here where its been leaking past the gasket

No doubting its been kicking oil into the boost pipes though

 You can also see the oil return is a lot more restrictive than the new hose i'll be making up

 I'll be stripping this turbo down myself, quite interested to see how it all works

Bit of progress today, filed off the bracket on the manifold so it cleared the chargecooler

and fitted the new oil return flange to the turbo

and to the sump as well

before i fitted the turbo i fitted the banjo for the breather drain

bolted the turbo up and fitted the oil return hose, It has to loop around like that so the hose doesn't kink, i may change the 90 degree into sump for a 45 as i think that might work better

EGR blanking plate fitted

New inlet manifold bolted up

New MAP sensor pipe fitted up

I've decided to fit a flexi pipe for the oil feed, so i'm waiting on that now, and i need to cut down the EGR delete pipe and fit the 180 bend to join inlet manifold up. Then i can plumb in the oil separator...

I've always gone with REVO, but there are other goo ones out there. I have not done my afn though, as in my Caravelle it pulls hard enough for the time being and I always get it rolling in 3rd before using what's available.

If you could get a map that opened up the higher rpm's rather than added to the lower torque I reckon I might go for it. It is as if someone has waved a magic wand over your engine bay

http://www.darksidedevelopments.co.uk/products/hflo-x-race-nozzles-for-1-9-2-5-ve-engines.html" rel="nofollow - http://www.darksidedevelopments.co.uk/products/hflo-x-race-nozzles-for-1-9-2-5-ve-engines.html

Firstly removed the circlip from the actuator arm (this was actually so rusted it just disintergrated)

then removed the 3 bolts holding the actuator to the turbo

actuator removed!

Next step was to remove the remaining 3 bolts around the turbo

Once they are removed you can split the turbo in two, for this i used a cold chisel, braced the exhaust part of turbo and gave the bearing housing a whack

The result is a turbo in two parts

This spacer just pulls off, there is three in total

First part of VNT mechanism can be removed

Three hex headed bolts can then come out

Followed by the second part of VNT mech

one side

reverse side

You are then left with three spacers in the turbo housing

Second part will be cleaning it all up, Mr Muscle or i might soak it all in coke overnight

VNT mechanism now pretty clean

exhaust side of turbo de-sooted

I then split the compressor section from the bearing housing and gave that a clean

Then got onto the bearing housing

compressor side

before

after

and the exhaust side

before

after

Now just to re-assemble

Everything had a wipe in engine oil, as it's going to be unused for a while

spacers back in and held in place with a bit of grease

VNT mech dropped back in, taking care to get the orientation right so the actuator lines up (dowel hole at around ten oclock, to the right of hex head bolt is where the actuator locates in)

spacers X3 and locating pins fitted

video of the VNT mech, you can just see the vanes moving inside

http://i811.photobucket.com/albums/zz40/lloydy2010/VIDEO0024-1.mp4" rel="nofollow">

turbo all back together

and a video of how 'free' it all is now

http://i811.photobucket.com/albums/zz40/lloydy2010/VIDEO0025-1.mp4" rel="nofollow">

Question time...

When i removed the flex plate there was a thin washer/spacer either side of it, Do they go back on either side of the flywheel, or just the crank side, or neither?

this is the one from the crank side

and the one from the gearbox side

Any ideas?

 

**edit** have you sorted a crank seal yet? ifso where from? ta x