Print Page | Close Window

How to: AXD Manifold and Turbo Removal

Printed From: The Brick-yard
Category: T5 Section
Forum Name: T5 Chat
Forum Description: Forum for T5 specific chat
URL: http://www.brick-yard.co.uk/forum/forum_posts.asp?TID=60735
Printed Date: 29 Mar 24 at 13:21
Software Version: Web Wiz Forums 12.06 - https://www.webwizforums.com


Topic: How to: AXD Manifold and Turbo Removal
Posted By: Liquidfreak
Subject: How to: AXD Manifold and Turbo Removal
Date Posted: 23 Dec 10 at 17:24
Here is the manifold removal guide. I am not a mechanic, nor do I pose to be, however I was good with Lego as a kid. 

WARNING!! THIS IS A PIG OF A JOB! YOU HAVE BEEN TOLD!

You have probably come here after looking at the 'Turbo Squeal fix' or the 'Turbo and Manifold Issues' thread so you already know what problems you have.

Estimated Work Time: 2 Days, although, if you are on it, and you have a helper, you could probably get it done in a day.

Tool list: Required
* Ramps/Jacks x2 + Axle Stands
* 5mm Allan key bit with at least 3 extenders or 5mm Allan key
* 8mm Spanner
* 10mm Spanner
* 13mm Spanner
* 13mm Socket
* 15mm Socket
* 16mm Socket
* M10 Spline/Triple Square Socket
* M12 Spline/Triple Square Socket
* Ratchet
* Socket Wrench
* 2x Universal Joint Sockets (This is important!)
* 2x Standard length extender bar - about 4-5" long
* 1x Long extender bar
* Penetrating oil (Plus Gas)
* Large Flat-blade Screwdriver
* Wire Brush
* Swear Jar

Note: the spanners I am using have ratchets built in and are also multi-angled.

Tool list: Good Idea.
* Light
* Small Ladder
* Safety Goggles
* Hacksaw
* Angle Grinder
* Twatting Hammer
* Lots of clean rags
* A few elastic bands
* A syringe - 50ml or so
* Extending magnet, or even better - extending grabber

_________________________________________________

Parts List: Required
* 1x Manifold Gasket: 070 253 039 C 
(Number 2 in Manifold Parts Image)

* 1x Turbo Gasket: 070 145 757 
(Number 23 in Turbo Parts Image)

Part List: Good Idea
* 10x Manifold Nuts: N 902 002 01
(Number 4 in Manifold Parts Image)

* Locktite: 
(Number 5 in Manifold Parts Image)

* lots of clean rags

Parts List: If things have gone wrong
* Exhaust Bracket: 
_________________________________________________

Manifold Parts: 


Turbo Parts: 


First Job: Get van on ramps or up in the air using some jacks, use some axle stands!
Important: Swear jar and loose change must be easily accessible!

Right, we are ready to start, T5 TDI has already mentioned the order in which to do this job; it goes: CAT/Exhaust --> Turbo --> Manifold.

( 1 ) CAT/Exhaust Removal: !!BELOW VAN!!

To remove the CAT you will most likely want to use something like penetrating oil to soak into the bolts as they will be rusty and won't want to play.

There are 5 bolts holding this in place:
Two at the rear (Photo 1) which are 15mm bolts. This itself is built up of 5 parts (Photo 1.1)
1) The bracket
2) The outer spacer
3) The middle spacer
4) 2x bolts that are curved to the contours of the bracket. 
I am not going to lie, this is the first hurdle. This did not come apart easily. One bolt sheared and the other rounded itself off, this meant that it needed cutting off. It then required a lot (I mean a lot) of penetrating oil - might be able to save yourself several hours by using PlusGas here, a lot of rust removal using a wire brush, a bit of gentle persuasion by tapping the inside of the outer shell (the stainless steal bit), and a lot of patience. If you have broken the bolts then you will need some new ones, not sure on the part number as I made up my own set.

Next, there are two 13mm bolts at the middle (Photo 2). These stripped the threads for me - very nice of them to do so. If this happens to you and you have access to an angle grinder, loose them!

And finally, one 5mm allan key bolt at the front which holds the exhaust to the Turbo (Photo 3), DO NOT FULLY UNDO THIS BOLT! Undo the bolt a bit and it should lift up thus freeing up the pipe clip. 
A large flathead screwdriver is good here. Put it between the bracket and the turbo and leverage the clip off. This then allows the next bit to open up and the exhaust pipe should now be free. If it is not, you will need to get a screwdriver and a bit of penetrating oil in there - use a hammer if needs be. 

A gasket will fall out when you remove the exhaust (Photo 4) this should go back in place with the smaller side facing the exhaust flange.


(Photo 1: 15mm Bolts - Back of CAT)


(Photo 1.1: The bracket of doom! (as above) If yours looks like this then you have done well son you have).



(Photo 2: 13mm Bolts - Middle of CAT)


(Photo 3: 5mm Allan Key Bolt - Front of CAT/Turbo. Note: DO NOT FULLY UNDO!)


(Photo 3.1: Side on view of the exhaust to turbo clamp).


(Photo 4: Exhaust to Turbo Gasket)


For re-installation, gasket follows the exhaust flange (small side on exhaust side). 
_______________________________________

( 2 ) Remove EGR connecting pipe (Photo 5) !!ABOVE VAN!!

To remove the EGR connecting pipe you will need to undo the pipe clip (Photo 6) which connects the EGR to the manifold. This is a 5mm Allan Key Bolt (remove fully). Next Undo the 10mm bolt that holds the EGR connecting pipe to the support stay (Photo 7), and finally remove the two 13mm bolts that connect the pipe to the EGR (Photo 8), be careful to catch the gasket or EGR blocking plate depending on which you have.

(Photo 5: EGR Connecting Pipe)


(Photo 6: 5mm Allan Key Bolt - Pipe Connector to Manifold)


(Photo 7: 10mm Bolt attaching to Support Stay)


(Photo 8: Two 13mm Bolts - Connector Pipe to EGR Valve, watch you don't lose the gasket and/or EGR Blank Plate)

_____________________________________

( 3 ) Remove Pressure Pipe - Intercooler to Turbo (Photo 9) !!ABOVE VAN!!

To remove this pressure pipe you will need a large flat blade screwdriver. Insert screwdriver under retaining clip (Photo 10) and prise up. There are three clips and the pipe comes off in two bits. Two of the clips are the same size and one is smaller, this smaller one goes at the turbo end! Insert a clean rag over each of the exposed ends and hold them in place with an elastic band to stop bits going into the turbo or the intercooler.


(Photo 9: Pressure Pipe - comes apart in two bits or three or four if you f*ck it up)


(Photo 10: Retaining Clip x3, there are two the same size and one not, the smaller one goes at the turbo end)

______________________________________

(4) Remove Air Box to Turbo Pipe.

Using a set of pliers/mole grips remove the clip at the air box end by clamping the tabs together. 



Remove the pipe that joins this one from the engine cover.

This will need to be repeated at the lower end too (photo below in red circle). It might be worthwhile removing the air box lid to do this. 



You should be left with this:




( 5 ) Remove Turbo

From above, remove the 4 M10 spline/triple square bolts off the top of the Turbo.

Climb back underneath

( 5.1 ) Remove Bottom Tray (Sump Guard) - You'll thank me for this later.
Think it is 12mm or 13mm.

( 5.2 ) Make this with your socket set.


Disconnect the vacuum pipe (Blue circle) off the bottom of the VGV actuator - this is just an air pipe so shouldn't have liquid all over the place.



There are 3x M12 spline/triple square bolts x3 from the bottom/back of the turbo - This is a ball ache! If only I had this guide before I started! Do not lose faith with these, it can be done, even I have managed it.........eventually! LOL 

Use the socket setup shown in (6) on the two bolts marked in red circles, then use a ratchet and the spline/triple square on the bolt in the green circle - this will work, just got to fiddle about a lot to get it to go.

Now you need to remove the bolt on the left side of the turbo - it is a 16mm bolt (pictured below in red).



Now you have freed up the turbo - you are not out of the woods yet! The space that the turbo sits in is smaller than the turbo, well, it certainly seems like it. After a lot of struggling - I mean a good hours worth, I managed to get it out. T5 TDI got his out a lot easier by undoing the manifold and working around the free-moving turbo.

Cover the inlet that is exposed by removing the turbo. 

( 8 )  Remove the manifold

This can all be done from above the engine. Remove the ten 12mm nuts and washers (keep hold of washers as they don't come with the replacement nuts)

Once all of the nuts have been removed, get under the van, and remove the manifold. 

( 9 )  Remove heat shield.

To do this, you might find a better way. I stuck a small punch under each tab, hit it with a hammer upwards and they all eventually popped up. Use a bigger punch to get them back to original shape and when it comes to it, use an 8mm spanner and a hammer to force them back on.

( 10 ) Do some welding, replace manifold

( 11 ) Have a brew and then do this walkthrough in reverse.


-------------
2004 VW T5 Panel Van T30 2.5 130 AXD Engine



Replies:
Posted By: Biker1941
Date Posted: 23 Dec 10 at 19:49
Excellent LF
I will store this for future use
thanks
Clive


Posted By: T5 TDI
Date Posted: 23 Dec 10 at 20:54
I'm more up to speed now.  (Now I'm off the beach)  Re your Pm-  At a very quick look I didn't notice this walkthrough link was done by you (doh) LOL
 
It's a really nice job. Clap  When you search a site it's exactly what you hoping to find. Smile
 
Here are a couple of things you could add, they are just my view..
 
Add Jason's M8 multispline tool to your tools needed list.  Plus an extending magnet.
 
Make sure to point out that the triangular aluminium crushable washer for the turbo oil supply is strictly one use only.  Once the M8 bolts for the turbo are undone it has to be replaced.
 
The clean rag thing (and removing it) is quite important as the whole engine can get wrecked if a stray washer gets sucked in.
 
Also check each turbo/intercooler joint by pulling by hand after refitting.  If the clip is the wrong way round or not seated correctly it will blow off at the first sign of boost.
 
Btw 'Plus Gas' is the dog's gonads when it comes to rusty bolts!  (Forget WD40)  


-------------
2004 2.5 174


Posted By: Liquidfreak
Date Posted: 23 Dec 10 at 21:06
Cheers Biker/T5

It would be good to get some more of these helpful Haynes-like walkthroughs on the forum.

Not got to the turbo yet but thanks for the heads up on the M8 multispline tool and the Plus Gas - will have to get some tomorrow. What is the extending magnet for? (Oh no he didn't! guess i'll find out soon). 
Your a star! even on holiday you have the time to answer PMs and watch what is going on. 

If you have anything else to add then just say, this is basically me following my way through yours and Jason S's guides. I am not sure that there is any difference in the procedure for the AXE engine either.

Andy


-------------
2004 VW T5 Panel Van T30 2.5 130 AXD Engine


Posted By: T5 TDI
Date Posted: 23 Dec 10 at 22:14

As far as I know your guide is fine for the 2.5 AXE and AXD engines.  And I'm fairly sure they both have the Garettt turbo (I think Jason said something different on another thread so hopefully he will clear this up).  All of the 1.9's (AFAIK again) have the KKK turbo which is slightly smaller and comes as part of the manifold so the guide obviously isn't intended for them. 

Have you actually managed to get the manifold out without unbolting the turbo?

Anyway, hats off to you for even attempting this job in the bone chilling conditions I know you must be working in. Clap  I hate to say this but it was 24 degs here in the sunny Canaries today. LOL 


-------------
2004 2.5 174


Posted By: energysolutions
Date Posted: 23 Dec 10 at 22:16
I`m 100% sure the AXE (174) has a Garrett (I had to replace mineCry) and 99% sure the 130 has a KKK......

-------------
!!Never Eat Yellow Snow!!


Posted By: Liquidfreak
Date Posted: 23 Dec 10 at 22:19
Ha! not yet, I haven't even got the exhaust off yet! Only got the EGR connector pipe, pressure hose, and a few other bolts undone. I need some Plus gas really, oh.. and maybe a pit or lift. Hopefully have it all off and welded tomorrow as I need it ready by the 29th (going into Carrs to get my key recoded). I guess that you did the manifold and turbo half from the top and half from the bottom?

-------------
2004 VW T5 Panel Van T30 2.5 130 AXD Engine


Posted By: T5 TDI
Date Posted: 23 Dec 10 at 22:48
That's about it.  The manifold bolts from the top and the turbo bolts from the bottom.  I found the four multisplined turbo bolts the biggest stretch.  The only way to get at them is from way back (underneath) at the full extent of your arms.  There is no chance of getting long extentions/universal joints etc on them and they will be pretty tight too. 

 Interesting about the turbo makes ES.  Looks like I'm wrong then.  I know my AXE is a Garrett like yours so we'll see what LF's is and we'll have a definitive answer. Smile  



-------------
2004 2.5 174


Posted By: Liquidfreak
Date Posted: 23 Dec 10 at 22:54
I hope so much that i'll be able to tell you tomorrow, if not I might cry. I think once the cat is out of the way i'll be able to get right up in there.

-------------
2004 VW T5 Panel Van T30 2.5 130 AXD Engine


Posted By: Liquidfreak
Date Posted: 24 Dec 10 at 18:47
Although I spent the day working on the van, I have got no where, a sheared nut on the exhaust (back) and the two bolts stripped at the middle. Not a good result! Getting a little fed up of being under the van now!

-------------
2004 VW T5 Panel Van T30 2.5 130 AXD Engine


Posted By: Kitawagon
Date Posted: 25 Dec 10 at 11:28
From http://www.btnturbo.com/parts/model/volkswagen/transporter.aspx

2.5 D TDi 130 AXD 2002 - 2010 070145701E http://www.btnturbo.com/parts/model/volkswagen/transporter/bhp130/2002_axd_4498.aspx - BorgWarner K04
2.5 D TDi 130 R5K (AXD) 2004 - 2006 070145701KV302 http://www.btnturbo.com/parts/model/volkswagen/transporter/bhp130/2004_r5kaxd_4501.aspx - Garrett GT17 VNT

The plot thickens....

Anyone know how to tell if you have a R5K (AXD) or just an AXD? Wonder what the difference is between the two?




-------------
2004 LWB 2.5 AXD 130hp, K&N Filter, Allard EGR Pipe and Oil Breather Tank....


Posted By: T5 TDI
Date Posted: 25 Dec 10 at 22:30
That is weird.  I only know Borg Warner from auto transmissions.  Maybe they own KKK?  
 
I think the 'R5' tag refers to the gear driven engines like the (5 cyl) T5's and the V10 Touaregs.  But 2002 sounds too early for any T5.  Certainly any Uk T5.  Confused 


-------------
2004 2.5 174


Posted By: Kitawagon
Date Posted: 26 Dec 10 at 10:05
Sorry, guess this outta be in tech-chat... Geek

¨Borg-Warner bought German manufacturer Kuhnle, Kopp & Kausch, or KKK, in 1997. At that time the German subsidiary produced a variety of turbos, including some variable turbine geometry (VATN) models.

KKK stopped producing a model of VATN turbos after its parent company, Borg-Warner, decided not to contest a court injunction brought against it in April 2002 by rival turbo manufacturer Honeywell International Inc. Honeywell asserted at the time that KKK and its parent infringed on a patent held by Honeywell




-------------
2004 LWB 2.5 AXD 130hp, K&N Filter, Allard EGR Pipe and Oil Breather Tank....


Posted By: Liquidfreak
Date Posted: 28 Dec 10 at 16:27
Sorry, when I named this a walkthrough I should have said a walkintotrouble. I haven't really made any progress although I have spent a number of days under the van. I have decided to put it all back together again and leave it. To be honest, I have got used to the fumes in the cabin and only really notice it when I have spluttering passengers.

Good luck to anyone that tries to fix theirs. If you have bolts that aren't held together by hatred and rust then you might get further than I did.


-------------
2004 VW T5 Panel Van T30 2.5 130 AXD Engine


Posted By: T5 TDI
Date Posted: 28 Dec 10 at 18:58
That's a shame LF. Cry  You did a great job with all the pics etc as far as you got.  Mind you the rest of the job is similar, rusty nuts and stuff that seems more suited to a contortionist!  Still save all your excellent work somewhere even if you delete the thread and maybe we can add to it later.
 
I really feel for ya!  Thumbs Up 


-------------
2004 2.5 174


Posted By: Liquidfreak
Date Posted: 28 Dec 10 at 20:25
I have just realised where I am going wrong after looking at a couple of photos I have taken today (uploaded them too). It makes a bit more sense now and I have got a bit of a boost to keep going with it. Just hope that I am not flu-ey tomorrow and the ground is dry. Really hate this job though!

-------------
2004 VW T5 Panel Van T30 2.5 130 AXD Engine


Posted By: Kitawagon
Date Posted: 28 Dec 10 at 20:53
C'mon lad! Don't let the sucker get ya down....Thumbs Up

...I can hear the Rocky theme kicking in......LOL

-------------
2004 LWB 2.5 AXD 130hp, K&N Filter, Allard EGR Pipe and Oil Breather Tank....


Posted By: Liquidfreak
Date Posted: 28 Dec 10 at 21:07
I was thinking that all the bolts are singing queen 'I want to be free'

-------------
2004 VW T5 Panel Van T30 2.5 130 AXD Engine


Posted By: Liquidfreak
Date Posted: 28 Dec 10 at 21:09
More like Joe pasqulae 'I am a bolt that'll get on your nerves, get on your nerves, get on your nerves. I am a bolt that'll get on your nerves, get get get on your nerves.'

-------------
2004 VW T5 Panel Van T30 2.5 130 AXD Engine


Posted By: T5 TDI
Date Posted: 28 Dec 10 at 21:14
LOLLOLLOLLOLLOLLOLLOLLOL Hug

-------------
2004 2.5 174


Posted By: Liquidfreak
Date Posted: 30 Dec 10 at 15:53
Please Please PLEASE can someone tell me how the fuck the clamp comes off in photo 3 and 3.1. It is driving me insane!!!

-------------
2004 VW T5 Panel Van T30 2.5 130 AXD Engine


Posted By: T5 TDI
Date Posted: 30 Dec 10 at 17:37
The end of the exhaust is flared, that rests against a corresponding bulge on the turbo.  Once the allen bolt is out you will need to lever the clamp off if wriggling the exhaust backwards and forwards doesn't work.  Try soaking it in penetrating oil and them tapping a large old screwdriver under the clamp.  And keep wiggling.  When it's ready it'll just go.  

-------------
2004 2.5 174


Posted By: Liquidfreak
Date Posted: 30 Dec 10 at 18:42
So is the clamp two pieces then? I mean, the outer 'clamp' and then the inner V/U shaped bit which holds the exhaust to the turbo. Looks to me like it is spot welded together.

-------------
2004 VW T5 Panel Van T30 2.5 130 AXD Engine


Posted By: T5 TDI
Date Posted: 30 Dec 10 at 19:14
No it's in one piece, it's just that although you have undone the allen bolt, the inner pieces (spot welded to the clamp as you say) are still stuck fast around the exhaust to turbo joint. 
 
It's best to buy a new clamp anyway so if you aren't sure the new clamp will make things clearer.  Smile


-------------
2004 2.5 174


Posted By: Liquidfreak
Date Posted: 30 Dec 10 at 20:43
Right-o. Think I shall put it all back together and drop it in a MIJ Exhausts in Jan when I am up there, get a SS one instead.

-------------
2004 VW T5 Panel Van T30 2.5 130 AXD Engine


Posted By: Liquidfreak
Date Posted: 02 Jan 11 at 22:44
This thread is as far as I am taking it, if anyone wants to continue it then be my guest. Sorry it wasn't a complete walkthrough - more so for me as now I need to pay to get it fixed!

-------------
2004 VW T5 Panel Van T30 2.5 130 AXD Engine


Posted By: Kitawagon
Date Posted: 21 Sep 11 at 13:18
Coming back to this ole manifold chestnut. It seems PPT might be gearing up to being able to sell their alternative. Here's hoping.. Thumbs Up

-------------
2004 LWB 2.5 AXD 130hp, K&N Filter, Allard EGR Pipe and Oil Breather Tank....


Posted By: energysolutions
Date Posted: 21 Sep 11 at 23:06
Originally posted by Kitawagon Kitawagon wrote:

Coming back to this ole manifold chestnut. It seems PPT might be gearing up to being able to sell their alternative. Here's hoping.. Thumbs Up
 
Dont hold your breath, I spoke with them initially over a year ago and they began the development process shortly after (aided by "mistadave`s" contribution of a donor manifold)
 
I spoke with PPT again around 3 weeks ago after leaving my van in for a service they found the manifold was fecked and I required a replacement, they said that they had one manufactured and it was now in the testing phase but reading between the lines I dont expect the finished article to be available any time soon
 
Shame really as I had then had no option but to shell out ~£300+VAT to VW for another genuine manifold which clearly isnt fit for purpose, simply because there isnt an alternative
 
Between that, a service, brake pads all round, another broken rear spring (unbelieveable), drop links (again) and new shocks all round etc etc my "simple service" became a £1500 nightmare 
 
 


-------------
!!Never Eat Yellow Snow!!


Posted By: Kitawagon
Date Posted: 22 Sep 11 at 13:06
Breath held! Please oh please PPT deliver the goods. On a related note I also took delivery of the German Fleabay Turbo to manifold gasket. I'll take some pics and post. My ideal situation is for PPT to have their manifold ready by end of Sept, take delivery, book the van in to local indie, have them remove the turbo and crappy ole excuse for manifold, send turbo off for servicing, then have new PPT manifold, serviced turbo and fleabay gasket refitted (not sure if i'd need the gasket then but it seems a good idea?).

Wishful thinking, but I can but hope..


-------------
2004 LWB 2.5 AXD 130hp, K&N Filter, Allard EGR Pipe and Oil Breather Tank....


Posted By: Liquidfreak
Date Posted: 11 Oct 11 at 23:54
Any further news on the PPT manifold?

-------------
2004 VW T5 Panel Van T30 2.5 130 AXD Engine


Posted By: Kitawagon
Date Posted: 12 Oct 11 at 07:20
Sorry, I should have tidied this up. In short, the answer is nothing definate. Jason at PPT suggested a further 2 months (and that was three weeks ago), therefore we could be in luck in 5 weeks from now, say middle of November? Can I suggest that anyone who is wanting a replacement perhaps give PPT a call so they know the numbers of people that are keen? This may provide the additional impetus needed?

http://www.performancepipesandtuning.com/contact.php
Tel: 01507 611088

Cheers



-------------
2004 LWB 2.5 AXD 130hp, K&N Filter, Allard EGR Pipe and Oil Breather Tank....


Posted By: Kitawagon
Date Posted: 12 Oct 11 at 07:56
On a related note, see the following pictures for the German fleabay ordered exhaust manifold to turbo joint. I'm hoping the fact that is has raised edges around the central hole will mean it will do the job better than perhaps a typically flat metal gasket? Thoughts?












-------------
2004 LWB 2.5 AXD 130hp, K&N Filter, Allard EGR Pipe and Oil Breather Tank....


Posted By: The Transporter
Date Posted: 13 Oct 11 at 09:35
That ain't gonna help you much if like mine, the entire flange fell off the manifold.....

-------------
2004 174bhp AXE engine..... Belligerence has been confirmed.


Posted By: Kitawagon
Date Posted: 13 Oct 11 at 12:32
Originally posted by The Transporter The Transporter wrote:

That ain't gonna help you much if like mine, the entire flange fell off the manifold.....


That's true Cry. I hope not, but there is no way to know until it's out!


-------------
2004 LWB 2.5 AXD 130hp, K&N Filter, Allard EGR Pipe and Oil Breather Tank....


Posted By: Liquidfreak
Date Posted: 13 Oct 11 at 15:38
Do you know if the EGR connection has been blanked on the new manifold? My one made it's own modification about 3 weeks ago where it sheared off - fixed with a coke can to get me home.

-------------
2004 VW T5 Panel Van T30 2.5 130 AXD Engine


Posted By: Kitawagon
Date Posted: 14 Oct 11 at 13:16
I'm 99% certain the PPT one will have no EGR spout..

-------------
2004 LWB 2.5 AXD 130hp, K&N Filter, Allard EGR Pipe and Oil Breather Tank....


Posted By: T5 TDI
Date Posted: 14 Oct 11 at 21:51
Originally posted by Kitawagon Kitawagon wrote:

On a related note, see the following pictures for the German fleabay ordered exhaust manifold to turbo joint. I'm hoping the fact that is has raised edges around the central hole will mean it will do the job better than perhaps a typically flat metal gasket? Thoughts?
 
Could have done one of those when I did mine.  It looks like a crushable ring on the gasket which gives an extra thick seal when it's flattened.  It's the same idea as the triangular one that seals the oil supply/return on the turbo where it's bolted to the block.










 


-------------
2004 2.5 174


Posted By: Liquidfreak
Date Posted: 15 Oct 11 at 18:29
How much was that Kitawagon? do you have a link?

Cheers


-------------
2004 VW T5 Panel Van T30 2.5 130 AXD Engine


Posted By: Kitawagon
Date Posted: 15 Oct 11 at 21:42
So here's the german ebay link:

http://www.ebay.de/itm/Abgaskrummer-Turbolader-Krummer-Dichtung-VW-T5-2-5-TDI-AXD-R5K-/230681305626?pt=DE_Autoteile&hash=item35b5ad621a

But now I'm confused as there is also this lot? I'm guessing the other two are one for the turbo oil seal and the other for the exhaust clamping to the turbo? I wasn't aware the turbo to exhaust pipe was also at risk of leaking?

http://www.ebay.de/itm/Turbolader-Dichtsatz-VW-T5-2-5TDI-96KW-BNZ-R5K-AXD-/230678084885?pt=DE_Autoteile&hash=item35b57c3d15

As I couldn't figure out how to register on german ebay, I simply emailed him at:


Merchant

Alexander Fink
mailto:shop@holex.org" rel="nofollow - shop@holex.org

The price I paid including delivery was €15.80 EUR

Note, if you're not fluent in german, try:

translate.google.co.uk

Just paste the above links in and translate from German to English.


-------------
2004 LWB 2.5 AXD 130hp, K&N Filter, Allard EGR Pipe and Oil Breather Tank....


Posted By: Liquidfreak
Date Posted: 17 Oct 11 at 10:02
Many thanks fella.

-------------
2004 VW T5 Panel Van T30 2.5 130 AXD Engine


Posted By: The Transporter
Date Posted: 17 Oct 11 at 19:14
The second link seems to be for a turbo replacement kit.... The triangular gasket is for the bottom of the turbo, though mine was made of copper. the large round metal thingy seals the exhaust to the turbo outlet, the funny shaped one as you know is for the turbo/ manifold interface but the little round O ring is a bit of a mystery, perhaps it is the O ring for where the water rail plugs into the engine just above the thermostat housing.. That will be a source of leaks in years to come I think!

-------------
2004 174bhp AXE engine..... Belligerence has been confirmed.


Posted By: Liquidfreak
Date Posted: 30 Mar 12 at 16:35
After over a year away from this, I finally decided to give it another go. 
An hour in and I had already got further than I did before, now I am just struggling with space to work on it. Turbo is almost off, will update the user guide later and let you know how I got on.



-------------
2004 VW T5 Panel Van T30 2.5 130 AXD Engine


Posted By: Liquidfreak
Date Posted: 31 Mar 12 at 12:55
Manifold is off!!!!! Party

-------------
2004 VW T5 Panel Van T30 2.5 130 AXD Engine


Posted By: Liquidfreak
Date Posted: 01 Apr 12 at 13:39
:) :) :) well, after 4 years, 1 failed attempt, 2 garages turning down the job. I am now the proud owner of a working manifold. Will load some photos later, but the manifold had cracked almost all the way around one of the ports.

-------------
2004 VW T5 Panel Van T30 2.5 130 AXD Engine


Posted By: T5 TDI
Date Posted: 01 Apr 12 at 14:57
No better feeling than completing such a bastard job! Big smile  And Kudos to you for actually showing the whole thing warts and all rather than just starting the job and never admitting when it got difficult.   Clap 

-------------
2004 2.5 174


Posted By: Liquidfreak
Date Posted: 01 Apr 12 at 21:35
It was a pig of a job, in fact I will mention that at the beginning. Thing is, I am not sure what the worst part was, even when everything was back on and just the exhaust waiting to go on, that little bastard clamp took me 30 minutes to get it so it grabbed both the turbo and the exhaust. Nightmare. Wouldn't wish it on anyone! 

Having said that, wow, this van is quick, and I missed it! - Bit of a shame really as I am now looking to sell it and get a caddy.


-------------
2004 VW T5 Panel Van T30 2.5 130 AXD Engine


Posted By: Liquidfreak
Date Posted: 01 Apr 12 at 22:01
The cracked manifold:





-------------
2004 VW T5 Panel Van T30 2.5 130 AXD Engine


Posted By: CMP260
Date Posted: 05 Apr 12 at 11:50
hi,
did you weld the manifold to fix it? or buy a new one?
can they be wleded?


Posted By: Liquidfreak
Date Posted: 05 Apr 12 at 20:42
Hi mate,
Yeah it welded fine. I even welded a patch to remove the EGR valve connector pipe. Runs like a dream now.

-------------
2004 VW T5 Panel Van T30 2.5 130 AXD Engine


Posted By: CMP260
Date Posted: 05 Apr 12 at 21:52
cool. when you patch the egr, do you need to change anything with vag com?


Posted By: Liquidfreak
Date Posted: 05 Apr 12 at 22:11
No, but you will need the blanking plate for the non-manifold end. You can get them from Baxter.

-------------
2004 VW T5 Panel Van T30 2.5 130 AXD Engine


Posted By: CMP260
Date Posted: 06 Apr 12 at 12:01
ive been reading you can block off the vacuum hose. wouldnt that be simpler than egr blanking plate?
what does the blanking plate inprove?
my t5 drives fine, just cab stinks likes fumes. is it worth doing blanking plate?
I may do it if tis worthwile since ill have manifold off anyway, do you have a link to the basxter plate? coldnt find it?

also, someone told me yesterday that its easier to get at all this stuff from on top if I pull off the front of the van? sound feasible? (he is a truck mechanic)

ta



Posted By: Liquidfreak
Date Posted: 06 Apr 12 at 18:16
Could be worth a try but seeing as the manifold is at the rear of the engine it won't make any difference. Blanking plate stops the EGR valve from putting warm exhaust gases through your engine/turbo. There is a few threads on here.

-------------
2004 VW T5 Panel Van T30 2.5 130 AXD Engine


Posted By: Liquidfreak
Date Posted: 06 Apr 12 at 18:22
http://www.brickwerks.co.uk/shop?page=shop.product_details&flypage=flypage.tpl&product_id=469&category_id=153&keyword=Egr

-------------
2004 VW T5 Panel Van T30 2.5 130 AXD Engine


Posted By: CMP260
Date Posted: 07 Apr 12 at 14:59
thanks,

Ive got the airbox gubbins off now and i can see that bloody manifold crack now -last cylinder right at the flange.
It looks like it might be possible to remove the turbo to downpipe clamp and just pull off the pipe sideways while the rest of the exhaoust is connected -since there is a flex joint? thoughts?



Posted By: Liquidfreak
Date Posted: 07 Apr 12 at 16:52
And leave it on the van or take the whole exhaust off? You won't have any space to do the job if you don't take the middle section of the exhaust off.

-------------
2004 VW T5 Panel Van T30 2.5 130 AXD Engine


Posted By: CMP260
Date Posted: 07 Apr 12 at 17:01
theres so much rust on the middle section sonnections its scaring me!


Posted By: Liquidfreak
Date Posted: 07 Apr 12 at 17:10
Yeah it is a pig to do, but plus gas is your friend.

-------------
2004 VW T5 Panel Van T30 2.5 130 AXD Engine


Posted By: CMP260
Date Posted: 07 Apr 12 at 18:44
ANY IDEA BEST place to get these bits cheap:

* 1x Manifold Gasket: skype:070253039?call" rel="nofollow - 070 253 039 C
* 1x Turbo Gasket: skype:070145757?call" rel="nofollow - 070 145 757
* 10x Manifold Nuts: N 902 002 01



Posted By: Liquidfreak
Date Posted: 07 Apr 12 at 22:12
VW, less than £50, I think - only threw the invoice out the other day.

-------------
2004 VW T5 Panel Van T30 2.5 130 AXD Engine


Posted By: CMP260
Date Posted: 10 Apr 12 at 18:20
arg, I just bought this van 2 weeks ago., how can love go to hate so fast!

I got the middle bit of the exhaust of by grinding its nuts off the clamp -fucker was totally rust welded. Now I cant get the stupid flathead bolts out even with a lump hammer - looks like Ill be drilling them.

Front support bolts came out ok, overnight wd 40 worked a treat.

I loosened the turbo clamp but thats as far as Ive got, I can't pull the pipe off -even banged it with the lump hammer since it was still at hand from the last bit. Angry

you got any any tricks or hints for this bit?
cheers






Posted By: Liquidfreak
Date Posted: 10 Apr 12 at 18:45
Yeah like I said, this job is an utter c#nt!

You need I open the clamp up. If you look at the clamp there is an inner clasp. I you place a flathead screw driver on it and tap it with a hammer it'll come off. Might need to do it from below and above. Maybe stick some WD40 around it and leave it overnight, although WD40 is pish compared to Plusgas.

Good luck dude.

-------------
2004 VW T5 Panel Van T30 2.5 130 AXD Engine


Posted By: CMP260
Date Posted: 10 Apr 12 at 19:56
took ur advice on that one- plusgas in the post!Smile


Posted By: Liquidfreak
Date Posted: 10 Apr 12 at 20:56
Good lad!

-------------
2004 VW T5 Panel Van T30 2.5 130 AXD Engine


Posted By: CMP260
Date Posted: 11 Apr 12 at 17:10
yay, 2 days of blood sweat, cursing, toil, mutliple cuts and scrapes and its off.
I think I can lay claim to extra joy since I had air con pipes over the exhaust manifold to make it even more fun.

only one accident - turbo to egr bolt. -they come off if you take your time and wiggle back and forth but they shear if you force them.Cry 1 down. lets hope it drills out ok.
WTF are those bolts made from anyway? theyre not magnetic.
There was no 4th (side) bolt on my turbo -but theres a rusty threaded hole, does it matter?

It looks like just the first pipe is cracked, should I get any others re-welded / strengthened anyway just in case?

Or maybe this is the excuse Ive been looking for to buy a mig welder (only done a bit of arc welding before). Is it hard to weld stainless? do I need special mig wire? Or should I leave this to the pros?Beer







Posted By: Liquidfreak
Date Posted: 11 Apr 12 at 19:30
It isn't stainless bud, you took the heat shield off right? I only did the failed one. When I welded it I made a wooden brace for the manifold to bolt onto so that it wouldn't warp with the heat. Put some holes in the brace so the manifold can breathe.

Not sure about the 4th hole. In theory it can't twist, but I expect it could help relieve stress from exhaust movement should the engine mount fail.

-------------
2004 VW T5 Panel Van T30 2.5 130 AXD Engine


Posted By: stiggy
Date Posted: 11 Apr 12 at 19:37
Hello all.. 
Well it seems my '56'reg 2.5 130 has developed the same problem Unhappy..
I get the fluttering sound when accelerating and fumes in the cab. After reading pages and pages of reports on this and many other forums it sounds like a very common fault. I think in most cases the cracks appear right by the welds.
We have a very experienced engineer at work and he informs me the best welding would be 'tig'. 
I am going to attempt the torrettes inducing task of removing my manifold and getting as many of the original welds ground down and then re-welded with 'tig' .. If this is successful I will be sure to let you guys know. 
I guess I may be in a envious position as this will only cost me my own time but even if its a days labour at cost it may be a cheaper option for some of you.
Ade   


-------------
If it's got tits or tyres it's trouble..


Posted By: CMP260
Date Posted: 11 Apr 12 at 22:51
sure looked like ss, but now I tihnk about it the welds are rusty...
thanks almost used ss stick on it!Handshake


Posted By: CMP260
Date Posted: 12 Apr 12 at 20:27
well whaddya know, its not just the first port leaking Pig. shouldve guessed. from other posts...
Screwed maniflod to plank of wood to stop it warping, mig welded it, air tested it with soap suds... port 2 and 5 also cracked (and leakage from new weld ).. didnt even notice the tiny cracks until suds test.
Word of advice to those attempting this job, suds/air test it after you weld it, or you may well have to do it all again later Angry

According to vwteeside the part numbers listed in previous post are out of date,  but they can suppy 2 x gaskets and all nuts for £25 all in.

Ther reason I thought it was stainless is there seems to be stainless plates attached to the front of each port on mine (sort of like the opposite of gaskets on the side the nuts go). Anyone elses look like this? dont have a clue why its like this maybe for added strength or reacts less with copper nuts,Wacko






Posted By: CMP260
Date Posted: 14 Apr 12 at 13:48
Liquidfreak,
when you put it all back togethetr did you use a torque wrench on the manifold and turbo? (and loctite).
if you used torque wrench, could you post the torques for each bolt on here for the rest of us numptys?
taThumbs Up



Posted By: Liquidfreak
Date Posted: 15 Apr 12 at 08:42
No torque wrench and I passed on the loctite option and favoured a copper slip instead. Not too sure about the loctite as there were no signs that it originally had some on.

-------------
2004 VW T5 Panel Van T30 2.5 130 AXD Engine


Posted By: CMP260
Date Posted: 15 Apr 12 at 08:51
whats copper slip, i never heard of that

-------------
was a 2006 130 shuttle
now a 2006 174 multivan


Posted By: Liquidfreak
Date Posted: 15 Apr 12 at 19:20
It's a great anti-seize product, a mechanics tool as such. Put it on before you add the bolt/nut and you'll most likely be able to get it off again. It is also used on the back of brake pads to stop squeal.

How are you getting on with the manifold job?


-------------
2004 VW T5 Panel Van T30 2.5 130 AXD Engine


Posted By: CMP260
Date Posted: 15 Apr 12 at 21:22
still waiting for the gaskets and nuts to arrive....
just replaced the pads on my passat and theyre squealing, defintley be getting some of that copper slop too. where do you put it, between pad and slave cyl?

Also, thought I might mention, the van I bouht has 250k on it, the only reason I bought is was bacause its in such good nick. Its an airport bus thus mainly motorway miles: when took of trubo air hoses and egr, there was not a bit of crap in there. So I suppose if youre not using an engine around town theres no point blocking off egr right?



-------------
was a 2006 130 shuttle
now a 2006 174 multivan


Posted By: Liquidfreak
Date Posted: 16 Apr 12 at 07:37
Copper slip goes between the pad backing and the pistons, be careful not to get it on the pad braking surface otherwise it will no longer do any braking.

As for EGR, it is really up to you. I did mine because it sheared off and I didn't want to get a new one. I had already blanked one end off because I was searching for a smoother low end driving experience, and it just makes sense when you read up on it.

-------------
2004 VW T5 Panel Van T30 2.5 130 AXD Engine


Posted By: CMP260
Date Posted: 20 Apr 12 at 20:59
ok, finally got the parts from teeside it was £48 not £24....
the partnum for the manifold gasket is 070 253 039D

here is how I finally got the exhaust clamp bolts out after grinding and drilling failed:
sledgehammer and 17mm socket.. it worked.
heres pics
http://www.flickr.com/photos/the-paynes/?saved=1" rel="nofollow - http://www.flickr.com/photos/the-paynes/?saved=1





-------------
was a 2006 130 shuttle
now a 2006 174 multivan


Posted By: CMP260
Date Posted: 21 Apr 12 at 18:20
ARRRRG Angry
manifold went in ok. 
.... just spent last 5 hours crucified on that f*king VW swastica trying to get the f*ing turbo in. It came out its gotta go in right - wrong!
I even took off the turbo vacuum actautor and servo bits for more room. still cant get it in. My f*king arms are in bits from all the hose clips in the way. I had to give up before I burned the f*cker.Cry
I hate it.


-------------
was a 2006 130 shuttle
now a 2006 174 multivan


Posted By: CMP260
Date Posted: 21 Apr 12 at 18:32
just saw on another post to remove rear engine mount. maybe try that tomorrow if I can gather enough  enthusiasm after todays fiasco.

-------------
was a 2006 130 shuttle
now a 2006 174 multivan


Posted By: Liquidfreak
Date Posted: 21 Apr 12 at 23:36
Get someone to hold it and twist from above. It does go in! Oh yeah by the way, the fun bit hasn't started yet. Try getting the exhaust back on to the manifold!!

Good luck matey.

-------------
2004 VW T5 Panel Van T30 2.5 130 AXD Engine


Posted By: CMP260
Date Posted: 27 Apr 12 at 20:19
ok, its been about an hour a bolt so far....

finally managed to get turbo on again. liquidfreak, perhaps you could move these hints to the 1st page to save people much time?
TO REMOVE TURBO:
1) remove rear engine mount bolt
2) put jack under tranny and jack up so mount is 1-1/2 or 2 inches higher than it was.
(don't go too far or youll push engine bits through radiator)
3) now you will be able to easlily wiggle turbo out (from above) towards your right hand side.
4)  to replace turbo easily and save much time, remove vacuum acuator - its only 2 little bolts and E clip. Its much easier to put it back on after turbo is in place again than to try to get turbo back in place without removing the vacuum thingy,

hope this helps others, it would have saved me many hours of angryness.Angry

now, can someone tell me how the clip goes on the top turbo hose? the one thats half metal?
ta





-------------
was a 2006 130 shuttle
now a 2006 174 multivan


Posted By: CMP260
Date Posted: 28 Apr 12 at 14:49
FINISHED LOL
Didnt find downpipe to turbo too bad after all the other probs. 

Easiest way to to connect downpipe to turbo was as follows:
1) clean threads on clamp bolt and make sure it screws all the up an down way easily (i used copper grease)
2) secure two botom down pipe bolts by the cat (theres flex pipe at top so its ok to crank them down)
2) put gasket on downpipe side then push both all the way into mating surface on turbo, it will stay in place if you get it right.
3) with the clamp bolt swinging free, open up clamp a bit and push over downpipe (on pipe itself not by turbo)
4) slide it up and over mating surfaces of turbo and downpipe, slide bolt in place and tighten.
5) dont tighten too much or the "U" piece will spread and bolt will pop out and youll have to start again (I did this, used vice grips to squash it smaller again and it worked ok).


-------------
was a 2006 130 shuttle
now a 2006 174 multivan


Posted By: CMP260
Date Posted: 28 Apr 12 at 14:53
scared the shit out of me when suddenly started making loud noise on test drive:
air pipe to turbo had popped out. I had the clip upside down -its not intuitive, it looks like the little tabs at the end of the clip  are supposed to point upwards, they arent....


-------------
was a 2006 130 shuttle
now a 2006 174 multivan


Posted By: Liquidfreak
Date Posted: 28 Apr 12 at 16:20
Well done mate, you have earn't a pint!

-------------
2004 VW T5 Panel Van T30 2.5 130 AXD Engine


Posted By: CMP260
Date Posted: 17 Jun 12 at 19:56
hiya mate,

its fixed but im still gettin a burnning (plasticky) stink from the air vents -cant see anything melting so  Im thinking about building a little air scoop on bonnet to force fresh air in to blower and bypass the slotted vents in front of windscreen. What u think?


-------------
was a 2006 130 shuttle
now a 2006 174 multivan


Posted By: energysolutions
Date Posted: 17 Jun 12 at 20:10
It takes time for the exhaust fumes to subside after the fault has been fixed (thats assuming it IS fixed 100%) - give it time




-------------
!!Never Eat Yellow Snow!!


Posted By: CMP260
Date Posted: 17 Jun 12 at 20:55
? you mean freash air  blower and pipes still caked up with soot?

i did soap bubble air pressure test it afer welding manifold so unless it cracked again it sould be ok.
 I cant feel any puffing with my fingers around where cracks were anyway or around turbo and downpipe,


-------------
was a 2006 130 shuttle
now a 2006 174 multivan


Posted By: tldmobilerepair
Date Posted: 12 Aug 12 at 20:27
Just changed my AXD manifold, took around 5.5 / 6 hours start to finish, I do work as a mobile mechanic though and changed have already changed the turbo on it last year. 
There is no need to disconnect the exhaust, only on the V-Band adaptor on the turbo, I didn't even bother unbolting it on the rubber mounts just down from the cat. Undo the two 13mm headed bolts holding the half shaft bearing to the big cast alloy engine mounting on remove that out of the way(easier to do this with the drivers side wheel off, this then gives you east access to the 3 M12 bolts bolting the turbo to the block.
All of the 12mm headed manifold bolts can be accessed from the top of the engine, pref with the water rail removed. Here's a picture of my knackered AXD manifold :)
 
 
 
 
 


Posted By: CMP260
Date Posted: 13 Aug 12 at 00:54
That's totally awesome contribution dude- I feel like a dickhead for not realising that.
when I think about it now the down pipe was swinging in the breeze
Cheers

-------------
was a 2006 130 shuttle
now a 2006 174 multivan


Posted By: julls
Date Posted: 21 Nov 12 at 18:16
i manage to get the turbo out easier by undoing the engine mountain bolt where the air filter box sat and jacking the engine back turbo just fell out. hope this helps

-------------
welsh and proud.


Posted By: Doug Nel
Date Posted: 11 Jan 13 at 15:56
Hello Folks
 
Hope you can help.  I started this process about an hour ago.  After removing the air intake and all other pipes, the 1st nut I try to remove is the top manifold nut close to the air intake.  Without much force the stud has come out.  Since I am new to VW working please can you give me some advice. 
 
1. How do I go about getting this repaired.  Not sure what a complete stud looks like?
2. Do I continue to remove the turbo and manifold?
 
BTW I am working on a 2004 T5 Transporter 128Kw AXE engine
 
 


Posted By: bananaman
Date Posted: 11 Jan 13 at 21:19
A complete stud has thread at both ends. Looks like yours has sheared leaving one end in the engine block. This is usually caused by the heat from the manifold making the steel stud go brittle, so when you try to remove it-it can snap very easily. With regards to removal of the remaining part you could try to drill it and insert a stud remover-BUT BE WARNED THIS CAN END IN DISASTER IF YOU DONT DRILL DEAD STRAIGHT DOWN THE MIDDLE OF THE STUD. If theres any of the stud pretruding out of the block you could always try screwing a nut onto it and filling the middle of the nut with weld and thn winding it out. Either way it aint going to be easy. Good luck!

-------------
T5 T32 SWB Kombi 130ps


Posted By: Doug Nel
Date Posted: 20 Jan 13 at 06:56
Update:
 
I had the studs removed professionally after I had taken out the exhaust manifold. After 260 000 km's, not a crack, except it was twisted because of the upper and lower studs missing at the airbox sied.  Bought a new manifold, replaced the studs and put it all back together again.  All working fine, and I have my power back again.


Posted By: dokerty
Date Posted: 27 May 13 at 09:20
Thanks to all the contributors on this thread.  Made my life a little easier. Just finished this job.  Bit of an adventure.  Probably the trickiest in a while. There isn't much room for maneuver.

The light gauge bellows on the turbo flange was cracked and separated from the manifold.  Un-weldable. Got a part from the breakers when it arrived bellows good but it needed to be welded on the original welds, not a complete disaster got it welded successfully.

I had to change the thermostat also so some of the same parts needed to be removed.  the van has 4 wheel drive so extra shaft and gearbox parts in the way.

I found I could not remove the turbo altogether so left it in the space and moved the manifold around it loose.  Getting back in the manifold was testing, for some time i thought i wouldn't happen. took it all the way back and next time it slipped in.

I didn't remove mountings and my job followed the first walk through here fairly closely.

Only thing I'd add is take out the air box its easy and gives more light space and access.  And I don't know how the guys on here attempted it without a lift.  I don't think i would have attempted it without using a lift.

I will answer any questions if i can.

Thanks again.  




Posted By: Liquidfreak
Date Posted: 04 Jun 13 at 23:04
Well done mate! Without a lift it is a horrible job. As is the fact that I always seemed to end up doing it outside, during the winter. Hopefully I won't have to do it again for a while!

-------------
2004 VW T5 Panel Van T30 2.5 130 AXD Engine


Posted By: CMP260
Date Posted: 05 Jun 13 at 07:33
Lucky you! I would love to have had access to a lift!! It was a f*kin bitch without. I definitely dont wanna do it again!
I gotta say, other than the manifold problem, I love these engines -in fact I'd go as far as to say they are my favourite VW engine ever. Solid as the proverbial brick sh*thouse, just a big lump pf metal, no belts or chains to break. Handshake 250k miles, no major work on it and still pulling strong.


-------------
was a 2006 130 shuttle
now a 2006 174 multivan


Posted By: piluf
Date Posted: 04 Aug 14 at 12:10
Hi
many thanks for your guide.
I did the same work on my Touareg R5 in about 8 hours
It was really a ball ache.......
MANY THANKS from Italy
SmileSmileSmileSmileSmile


Posted By: CMP260
Date Posted: 20 Oct 14 at 14:55
does the BPC motor have a redesigned exhaust manifold to AXE? Clap
 my new bus is late 2006 with DPF and useless watercooled EGR. I was looking for leaks since I was coughing when driving. From what I can see under the stainless coolant dildo thing, the manifold looks like its cast metal rather than pressed?

I didnt see any obvious soot but the turbo variable vane rod does have soot on it. any ideas? is this a proper leak? turbo going tits up?  see arrows below for soot covered rod., funny though the cotter pin has no soot......
turbo

im thinking leaky intake system might also cause coughing if egr is totally caked and sooty? the intake manifold didnt have a proper gasket only red silicone make-a-gasket gunk



-------------
was a 2006 130 shuttle
now a 2006 174 multivan


Posted By: CMP260
Date Posted: 09 Nov 14 at 22:38
Anyone got any advice on doing this job with the BPC motor? -basically the AXD motor with an added EGR water cooler and turbo exhausting directly into DPF -thus no bendable down pipeUnhappy? does it mean I have to remove entire exhaust -again....Cry


-------------
was a 2006 130 shuttle
now a 2006 174 multivan


Posted By: Fcc5206
Date Posted: 30 Jul 17 at 11:43
Yep just completed a pig of a job!!


Posted By: Gabe
Date Posted: 02 Sep 18 at 09:58
Hi Guys,

I truly did not believe that it would be that hard. This manual looks so simple, so I ordered a new turbo, manifold and all gaskets and bolds/ nuts (was only 350AUD all together incl shipping). The manifold is iron cast. Looks way better than the pressed iron! 

I have to mention that I have a AXE engine, 4motion and RHD. I think those three thinks make it way harder!!! The guide only works partial. Same for the elsawin manual (i speak german which not helps). I had to undo the engine mounts to drop the engine. I also removed the brake booster which was probably a bad idea. Furthermore the manifold did not fit at all. I had to angle grind a lot on turbo and manifold. EGR pipe does not fit so I blanked it for now. And heap more of custom steps.
Removing the downpipe was a 5min job and if you struggle with it don't think about continuing. I think it ia only so hard because my brake booster is on the right side and that 4motion drive drain makes everything very tied. Normal car should be fine.

Alright I paid less than 400$ incl. tools and whatever you need. But it was two days work for two people. Without help I would never be able to do it. I think I would never do it again. Better of paying someone doing this job. Or plan removing engine and doing it outside of the car. That's probably faster.

Just for people who think of doing it ;)





Print Page | Close Window

Forum Software by Web Wiz Forums® version 12.06 - https://www.webwizforums.com
Copyright ©2001-2023 Web Wiz Ltd. - https://www.webwiz.net