You got Fridge problems????
Printed From: The Brick-yard
Category: T3 Section
Forum Name: T3 Westfalia forum
Forum Description: Forum to discuss VW T3 Westfalia models. If it's shit, it goes!
URL: http://www.brick-yard.co.uk/forum/forum_posts.asp?TID=57295
Printed Date: 19 Apr 24 at 03:24
Software Version: Web Wiz Forums 12.06 - https://www.webwizforums.com
Topic: You got Fridge problems????
Posted By: Joker_Club
Subject: You got Fridge problems????
Date Posted: 31 Aug 10 at 08:23
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Loadsa threads about problem fridges at the mo, must have been the Summer !!
Does your fridge work at all ?? Does it work on ANY of the 3 power sources?? In normal Summer conditions (ie not 40 degree heat in Morrocco) it should make ice on the element with any of the 3 sources of power ie 12V, 240V or gas. This will give you around zero to 4 degrees in the top of the fridge, minus degrees on a good day / night.
Easiest and quickest option if it works, but not very well, or works on some type of power source and not others, replace the gas jet as a matter or course, it`s a service item, replace the 12V element if at all suspect, replace the 240V element if at all suspect.
Having arsed about with my fridge due to problems like many others, I`ve done all of the above and the fridge now works as it should. What price can you put on cold beer  (oh, and not getting food poisoning from dodgy food not kept properly in the fidge)------------- Sunny Lancs |
Replies:
Posted By: Horns
Date Posted: 31 Aug 10 at 13:19
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So your fridge works? Congratulations. Was it really worth starting yet another fridge thread to tell us, though?
------------- 1986 Joker 1.6TD |
Posted By: Joker_Club
Date Posted: 31 Aug 10 at 13:31
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The idea behind the post was that the same thing gets asked week-in, week-out (NOT trying to be clever about my fridge working ------------- Sunny Lancs |
Posted By: rogerthecat
Date Posted: 31 Aug 10 at 15:27
Perhaps you should think before running off at the mouth fella - had lots of help and tips with my Westy from MrJoker_Club and I would venture to say so have a lot of other Westy owners. My fridge is not working at the moment and this provides me with a nice little checklist to work through so if you can't say anything nice, shut the fuck up. ------------- T3 Westy, T3 Syncro (the ScoobyVelle), New Beetle Cab, 2 x Polos - I have too many projects |
Horns wrote:Posted By: pictonroad
Date Posted: 31 Aug 10 at 17:27
 yeh, odd one that Horns..
Joker Club has helped in so many Westy threads on here, I've spent ages reading through the posts and as so many problems affect more than one person, he's a godsend.
I echo the cat. STFU. ------------- On the South Coast.... |
Posted By: pictonroad
Date Posted: 31 Aug 10 at 17:35
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oh, and I also thought of
" you got fridge problems I feel bad for you son, I got 99 problems (in the van) and a fridge aint one..."
when I read the thread title.
sorry, been a long day with the thinners.... ------------- On the South Coast.... |
Posted By: Pete Westy
Date Posted: 31 Aug 10 at 21:55
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Top man J_C Got me a new jet. Thanks. Don't let the b******s get you down. Keep cool man  ------------- Pete I've spent so much time under the Atlantic I'm changing my name to Titanic. |
Posted By: jameshere
Date Posted: 01 Sep 10 at 05:56
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OK, I will stick my neck out and support Horns' point of view. At least he made his point simply and politely, unlike one respondent . . .
And why would anyone replace expensive, difficult to obtain parts without first checking to see if they are faulty? The 12v and 240v heating elements will either be good, or burnt-out (open circuit); no in-between. A simple resistance check will tell you which. (And if you don't have a digital meter, one will cost you a lot less than a single element).
I have never recorded the resistance values of these elements, but I believe that they are both rated at around 70-80 watts, so the resistance of the 240v element should be about 700 Ohms, and that of the 12v element 2 Ohms. The amperages would be approx. 6a and 0.3a respectivly.
James
'94 Florida
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Posted By: Joker_Club
Date Posted: 01 Sep 10 at 07:42
My point was that you can spend ages arsing about with these things, same with the jets, they can seem to be working, as you have a flame but they won`t cool the fridge properly. A new jet cures the fault (they can sometimes be cleaned in an ultra-sonic cleaner, but for 16 quid it`s time saved (in having to pull the fridge out again if it isn`t successful) just to swap for a new one and peace of mind. ------------- Sunny Lancs |
Posted By: jason k
Date Posted: 01 Sep 10 at 08:01
horns just likes to be seen to be controversial and tends to start pointless arguments.
any post which stops the countless "my fridge dont work" threads gets a thumbs up from me. ------------- Bcs shallowest surf award winner 2006 camperjam 2011 chug and tug team member aberdare. south wales newest member of karmann korner no longer the only moderator to manage to ban himself |
Posted By: pandaboy
Date Posted: 01 Sep 10 at 09:47
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Hi, One of my first posts on here - don't bite my head off!! Where would I go about getting a new burner for my fridge? Tried everything else to get the damn thing running on gas! Ta!
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Posted By: Joker_Club
Date Posted: 01 Sep 10 at 16:44
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You mean the gas jet?? Got mine (and a few other peoples) from Peter Gunzl in Germany.
http://www.brick-yard.co.uk/forum/peter-gunzl-for-oe-westfalia-parts_topic40858.html - http://www.brick-yard.co.uk/forum/peter-gunzl-for-oe-westfalia-parts_topic40858.html
also of some use for Westy owners?
http://www.brick-yard.co.uk/forum/useful-westfalia-threads_forum37.html - http://www.brick-yard.co.uk/forum/useful-westfalia-threads_forum37.html ------------- Sunny Lancs |
Posted By: Horns
Date Posted: 01 Sep 10 at 20:56
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As has been said, the question pops up all the time and gets answered all the time - I've answered it myself on numerous occasions. I simply don't see how starting yet another thread on the subject achieves anything much, and I don't agree with blindly replacing components without diagnosing the problem first.
------------- 1986 Joker 1.6TD |
Posted By: rogerthecat
Date Posted: 01 Sep 10 at 21:16
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I think Club_Joker has explained quite clearly why replacement is often better than trying to diagnose something that will eventually require the component being replaced anyway. I think this thread was intended to try and help people get the fridge fixed quickly and easily but as usual you come wading in all guns blazing having a go at one of the most helpful people on this forum. You really need to move further from your work so you have more time, whilst commuting, to think before you respond to people trying to help everyone else. I am a totally useless cunt so please feel free to have a pop on any thread I start. Can't think of any post/thread I started that has been useful to anyone so perhaps you would be better employed censoring mine rather than useful ones posted by Joker_Club. As I said before, say something positive and contribute or STFU. ------------- T3 Westy, T3 Syncro (the ScoobyVelle), New Beetle Cab, 2 x Polos - I have too many projects |
Posted By: Horns
Date Posted: 01 Sep 10 at 21:24
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I think you might benefit from a dash of your own advice.
------------- 1986 Joker 1.6TD |
Posted By: jason k
Date Posted: 01 Sep 10 at 21:26
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sits and unwraps popcorn....................... ------------- Bcs shallowest surf award winner 2006 camperjam 2011 chug and tug team member aberdare. south wales newest member of karmann korner no longer the only moderator to manage to ban himself |
Posted By: rogerthecat
Date Posted: 01 Sep 10 at 21:31
Methinks it had better be a bumper box with free refills.  ------------- T3 Westy, T3 Syncro (the ScoobyVelle), New Beetle Cab, 2 x Polos - I have too many projects |
Posted By: rogerthecat
Date Posted: 01 Sep 10 at 21:38
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Horns, you are Diamond Hell and I claim my £5.
------------- T3 Westy, T3 Syncro (the ScoobyVelle), New Beetle Cab, 2 x Polos - I have too many projects |
Posted By: Horns
Date Posted: 01 Sep 10 at 21:40
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I'm what now?
------------- 1986 Joker 1.6TD |
Posted By: rogerthecat
Date Posted: 01 Sep 10 at 21:52
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Not what, whom. Diamond Hell, a nice chap, bought a van from him once. He also liked to be provocative, argumentative, contradictory, supercilious, superior and many more such words. He generally got up peoples noses by not letting people get on and have a happy life. Whereas I tend to be happy for people to get on and have a happy time, if that means posting a thread to help so be it, how often have people asked about wheels? Go to the bank, withdraw some cash, go get yourself a blow job - it may relax you a bit.  ------------- T3 Westy, T3 Syncro (the ScoobyVelle), New Beetle Cab, 2 x Polos - I have too many projects |
Posted By: Horns
Date Posted: 01 Sep 10 at 22:03
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I'm not the one who needs to relax here. Again, you could benefit from your own advice. I'm just expressing an opinion, not blowing a gasket and getting all sweary and upset. ------------- 1986 Joker 1.6TD |
Posted By: jason k
Date Posted: 01 Sep 10 at 22:06
now thats funny!!! ------------- Bcs shallowest surf award winner 2006 camperjam 2011 chug and tug team member aberdare. south wales newest member of karmann korner no longer the only moderator to manage to ban himself |
Posted By: mrhutch
Date Posted: 07 Sep 10 at 11:24
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DIAMOND HELL Although I seem to remember him popping up over on "Terry and June" not so long ago... ------------- T3 1981 Westy Vanagon - thinks lubricant is a fuel |
Posted By: rogerthecat
Date Posted: 07 Sep 10 at 11:43
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Haven't you got a van to finish?
------------- T3 Westy, T3 Syncro (the ScoobyVelle), New Beetle Cab, 2 x Polos - I have too many projects |
Posted By: mrhutch
Date Posted: 07 Sep 10 at 11:48
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erm... yes *goes to get coat and spanners* ------------- T3 1981 Westy Vanagon - thinks lubricant is a fuel |
Posted By: jason k
Date Posted: 07 Sep 10 at 17:27
 ------------- Bcs shallowest surf award winner 2006 camperjam 2011 chug and tug team member aberdare. south wales newest member of karmann korner no longer the only moderator to manage to ban himself |
Posted By: Spongebob
Date Posted: 21 Oct 10 at 20:35
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I’m hoping someone can help me with what should be a simple fridge problem because I haven’t found an answer on other existing threads. My Electrolux RM 184 EGI model runs perfectly on mains and 12v and also on gas until recently. I’m now unable to use it on gas simply because I can no longer hear the electronic ignition working. I’m hoping it may just be a fuse but I thought I would ask for advice on this forum first before I start pulling things apart. Any ideas please? |
Posted By: pirate-pete
Date Posted: 21 Oct 10 at 23:05
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May be a bit of rust or something has fallen down the flue and shorted out the spark igniter on the back of the fridge to the jet or the combustion cage. Happened to mine and after removing the flake of rust the igniter was back to normal again. |
Posted By: jameshere
Date Posted: 22 Oct 10 at 03:25
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Could also be that the gap between the tip on the end of the HT lead down to the burner and the nearest ground has become too wide for a spark to jump - I have experienced that.
When investigating the problem I disconnected the HT wire from the igniter, whereupon it immediatly started to "click", demonstrating that it was operational, and I received a series of mild shocks through my hand! This was an easy way to check it out.
James
'94 Florida
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Posted By: Spongebob
Date Posted: 22 Oct 10 at 11:16
Pete, James, Thanks for the tips. I'll pull it all out and have a good look whilst trying to avoid a series of electric shocks 
I'm sure once I've disturbed everything behind the fridge I will have enough problems to start a whole new thread (but I'll try not to).
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Posted By: Gandalf
Date Posted: 22 Oct 10 at 12:25
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Change the fuse on the pillar by the drivers seat first, its in the little black box and are bullet type ceramic- mine had shorted out. ------------- 89 Cali Pop Top |
Posted By: Spongebob
Date Posted: 22 Oct 10 at 13:56
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Gandalf, I had thought about these but because the red ignition light was still illuminated I thought they must be ok. Have I made a schoolboy error? I'll pop both fuses out and replace with new just to be sure because if it means not dragging the fridge out it's got to be worth it. Is this type of fuse easy to find from Kevin Coopers etc?
Thanks.
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Posted By: Gandalf
Date Posted: 22 Oct 10 at 14:01
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Mine is a little temperamental eg if its a warmish day or its stood in direct sunlight the ignition light comes on but no clicking - I just wait a couple of mins (with gas off) and it then starts to click - gas on quickly and press the little button for 5 seconds or so and job done.
Re the fuses - best to go to a smaller motor factors - they will have them (ones blue, one is redish but can't remember the amp or which one does what - sorry). Also give the terminals a bit of a clean as crap builds up over the years. ------------- 89 Cali Pop Top |
Posted By: Spongebob
Date Posted: 22 Oct 10 at 14:30
| When I removed the fuses there was some green crap around the top of the reddish/brown fuse terminal so I'll give it a bit of a clean before I pop some new fuses back in. I'll also try your method of waiting a couple of minutes as I've been switching it back off after no longer than 15 seconds. Thanks again for the tips. |
Posted By: niko
Date Posted: 24 Nov 10 at 20:44
Come on Horns....Chill out,cool off,put your criticism on ice....
 you could have chosen any one of 10,000 pointless threads.....this one actually has a purpose.
not like you.
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Posted By: Horns
Date Posted: 07 Dec 10 at 00:32
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I don't even like aquatic mammals. Still, now this is a sticky it makes a lot more sense. My apologies. ------------- 1986 Joker 1.6TD |
Posted By: Horns
Date Posted: 07 Dec 10 at 00:57
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Note to self - learn to hit the correct buttons, sausage-fingers.
------------- 1986 Joker 1.6TD |
Posted By: 16vmini
Date Posted: 16 Feb 11 at 21:22
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mine does not seem to work on any of the three settings.
on gas i can hear the ignitore clicking ..and light flashes (allthough cant see a spark at bottom of fridge , are you suppose to ? ) I cant hear any gas , and is it suppose to be really hard to get your finger into that hole ?
 on 12v and 240v nothing :(
it will be coming out at the weekend for a look over
Matt
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Posted By: Joker_Club
Date Posted: 17 Feb 11 at 19:44
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Have you read the Joker manual on how to fire the fridge on gas? ------------- Sunny Lancs |
Posted By: 16vmini
Date Posted: 18 Feb 11 at 07:48
yes , but nothing ...
the push button on mine is very deep into the hole ... my fat fingers dont reach .. have to use my small finger to push
Matt
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Posted By: 16vmini
Date Posted: 21 Feb 11 at 15:45
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ok , had someone look at the fridge ... said the 220v element is bust , and i need a new thermo coupler , (he could not order them so returned fridge , after cleaning it all up , un blocking gas jets .. so it will now light , just not stay alighted ) anyway used the fridge thread to order up the new parts. so will fit those when they arrive. next was the 12v , if i put a +12v onto relay i hear it click and fridge starts to cool. now when i checked the plug under the sink ( dissconnected from fridge ) i only get 1.4 ish volts on the ignition wire ! can anyone tell me where this goes to ? guessing fuse box ? regards Matt
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Posted By: Joker_Club
Date Posted: 12 Apr 11 at 16:22
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Just to resurrect this thread the push-button in your fridge front panel is actually missing, that`s why you have to stick your pinkie down the hole to feel the gas valve button. There should be a long plastic button with a small "top-hat" on it (stops it falling out of the front panel, or not in your case) that sticks through the panel, this is what you push, which them pushes the valve in while the gas lights ands warms the thermocouple, which then keeps the gas flowing and the fridge lit.
Dunno why you`ve only got 1.4V, maybe a bad / poor fuse connection in the fusebox on the B pillar? ------------- Sunny Lancs |
Posted By: 16vmini
Date Posted: 13 Apr 11 at 09:03
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cheers for that , i found out i was missing a button ! LOL , anyway update now is it all works on 12v and gas , but not on mains at the moment ( even though i bought a new main element ! ) ordered all the parts from the recommended place on here Matt
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Posted By: Torkijo
Date Posted: 02 May 11 at 09:40
Um, what happens if i get a click on the Gas, but it doesn't work on any of the 3 supplies?
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Posted By: johnb
Date Posted: 02 May 11 at 12:15
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Depends when the fridge last ran successfully. 12 Volt fridge only works when the engine is running. Check that you have 240 volts where the fridge plugs in to the kitchen unit (continental adaptor and hairdrier is as good a check as any). If you've got mains, the element is probably shot. if it has not run for a while, it is probably worth stripping an cleaning the burner (an ultrasonic cleaner (as sold by Maplins) will clean the jet. I'm assuming you have gas in the underslung tank and all the valves (the one on the tank and the two under the unit) are open? ------------- My van is better known in these parts than I am |
Posted By: Torkijo
Date Posted: 02 May 11 at 12:29
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Cheers Been checking electrics and just found the hook up has an earth issue as when in the metal washer brackets on the water inlet gave me a shock and the leisure battery is completely dead so will fix those then try again before pulling out fridge again.
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Posted By: johnb
Date Posted: 02 May 11 at 22:58
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That sounds like no earth and reverse polarity - unpleasant to get wrong. Have you an American or European import - it makes a hell of a difference to the wiring issues. ------------- My van is better known in these parts than I am |
Posted By: Torkijo
Date Posted: 13 May 11 at 21:40
Its a German Club Joker Looked today, there is no earth! Re the fridge, have gas, have igniter clicking away but doesn't work on any, going to take it out to clean out the gas lines etc but a caravan repair man has checked the element on 240v and thats gone apparently, is the only way to test on 12v to run the engine? Also, does it have a separate element for 12v? Cheers
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Posted By: johnb
Date Posted: 14 May 11 at 11:13
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Yes there is a separate element for 240V and 12V. You COULD connect a 12 V battery directly across the 12V fridge imput - but the battery will drain very quickly - that's why they are relayed to run only when the engine is running. I'm surprised there is no earth! Eurostandard is earthed on an installation like that - I suspect it is detached behind the plug on the body. Mine was very early and had no RCD. I had the 6A connector replaced with a 15A IEC connector (I now need to carry a 6A to IEC connector for some French sites) and a modern RCD and distribution board fitted. Everything was properly earthed though. There are lots of threads on here detailing where to get and how to change stuff. Good luck! ------------- My van is better known in these parts than I am |
Posted By: Torkijo
Date Posted: 18 Jun 11 at 08:56
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Hi folks, Found a 240v element on ebay but it appears the 12v is out of stock nationally. Anyway, I am just post to thoroughly recommend All Seasons Caravans Ltd for fixing the camping part of the campers.
They have a mobile service out of Nuneaton but cover all Cov & Warks and a bit more. No charge if they cant fix it and only £20 an hour for the work! More to the point for £35 they serviced our fridge and fitted the new element i sourced and cleaned out all the gas lines and our fridge works for the first time since we have had the van! His name is Paul and his number if 07506 843156 |
Posted By: Marlowe
Date Posted: 13 Mar 12 at 16:02
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Hello, sorry about a fridge question, but......
My one is noisy, not all the time but I think when the ventilator comes on.
Has anybody had a similar problem and if so does anybody have a remedie.
It´s kind of annoyng when trying to sleep in summer. I have to turn the fridge off, which is not a perfect solution.
Ok
Thanks
Marlowe
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Posted By: DaveyP2004
Date Posted: 13 Mar 12 at 17:03
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Hi Marlowe, The solution is to change the existing fan for a quiter computer fan. There is info here: http://www.brick-yard.co.uk/forum/go-westyretrofit-refrigerator-fan_topic68191.html" rel="nofollow - http://www.brick-yard.co.uk/forum/go-westyretrofit-refrigerator-fan_topic68191.html and also if you search google for "fridge fan brick-yard" you will find more info. Cheers, Dave ( http://www.westfaliaT3.info" rel="nofollow - www.westfaliaT3.info )
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Posted By: Marlowe
Date Posted: 16 Mar 12 at 19:08
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Cheers Dave.
I´ve had a good shufty in the forum and up popped your suggestion.
I´ve ordered 2 "Silent" Comp ventilators.
Bit worried about the fridge removal and refitting. I hope all goes according to plan.
Thanks again.
Marlowe
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Posted By: getsideways
Date Posted: 30 Mar 12 at 23:09
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Question for you those of you with working fridges, how long does it take for the heatsink at the back of the fridge to ice over, on gas/12/240? |
Posted By: Spyke
Date Posted: 01 Apr 12 at 10:15
Saw all the shenanigans on here so thought I'd join in as well  .
Looking around the net for my own Autohomes camper and came across an awesome info site. This was on there as well for repairing and toubleshooting fridges. May be of use (I know it's not the same fridge but principles should be the same).
http://www.autohomes.vwT3camper.info/General_Dometic_Refr_Service_Manual.pdf" rel="nofollow - http://www.autohomes.vwT3camper.info/General_Dometic_Refr_Service_Manual.pdf
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Posted By: tram-man
Date Posted: 08 May 12 at 22:32
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Took my fridge out tonight and the jet hole was open but now looks slightly bigger after an hour in the ultrasonic bath. Both elements looks like they have been replaced recently. Cooling performance was poor on all sources (slightly better on gas). Looking at fridge cooling circuit I saw a small reservoir with a drain plug at the bottom. I sent the pictures to my airco guru guy and asked if he could refill the circuit. But he suggested that I should turn the fridge upsidedown for 2 days and then back 1 day before firing up. He said that absorbtion fridges use coolant type which tends to collect in areas of the circuit and then will not contribute anymore. So I'm gonna do this. Obviously I can't compare back to back on gas as I have cleaned up the jet. But if he is right it should work much better on 12v/220v. With regards to the fan I will be chnging my noisey Westy fan aswell but I think there are better fans out there in terms of noise than the link above. Arctic Cooling do a range of high quality PC fans (liquid bearings) which are about the 3-4 quid mark. They don't shift the 80cfm claimed by the one in the link above but they are about 23db and spin at 1350rpm. I reckon 2 of these next to each other would be a better option. Will find and post a link once ordered. -------------  '97 A4 AFN | '60 T1 ratlook | '57 Oval | Dec '82 T3 Westfalia 1Y+DK+215/60x16 |
Posted By: BlackChart
Date Posted: 09 May 12 at 08:27
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And when turned upside down, tap it lightly on the cooling elements with a soft hammer, it loosens the crystalized coolant (it crystalizes over time)... It made my stock Electrolux RM184EGI fridge work with allmost double effect, from being allmost 24 hours from warm to cold to the same in just over 12 hours :) ------------- Regards, Morten Trab http://www.t3nettet.dk |
Posted By: Mark-Hans
Date Posted: 05 Aug 12 at 21:47
Hot and Cold.... Well, I'm nearly new around here, but my goodness, you lot can get your knickers so twisted over the fridge issues. What is it around here?... running too hot, running too cold. If it's not that awful cooling system, it's that other awful cooling system!...., well, one is more reliable than the other, of which I speak of 'THE FRIDGE". The other cooling system, made mostly of water, rubber & millions of hose clips,........ I'd say that who ever designed it was on acid!..... God, give me my Air Cooled any day!.....I hate it. Anyway, I digress,, As for the fridge bitches, can we all just be 'nice' over this subject. When it goes wrong, it's a daunting task. FACT! Being on holiday with everything melting is no fun, especially when wild camping. For my own sins, I've added my bit to the forum recently & have to say, was totally successful in my repairs/service. There is however a system to follow and blindly changing fridge components is silly & a waist of time. If you don't really know, send it to a specialist to get it fixed. My first experience with my 'other' woman (my 1980 Westfalia) was a fridge in & out 10 times under the baking heat of Spain. I never did win & eventually bought a brand new Electrolux fridge for €850. There is a limit to how far you go!...... I wish I'd changed it after the second attempt. Having said that, at first attempt, I fixed my 1990 California fridge first shot!.... was just lucky. So, unless someone has written a perfect 'step by step' procedure to checking out your Fridge.. (like the one written for taking it out & putting it back in), then, let's all be open to help everyone get over these drama's. And the day that the procedure of service checking is written clearly, we can just gently refer them back to the link!...... Post it, & for sure, I'll check it word for word, task for task & write it again if necessary!........ no problem. And what does that defrost switch do?....... defrost elements in the gas?  I can't imagine.......All double dutch...... Hug from Amsterdam. x ------------- Mark..Amsterdam |
Posted By: max and caddy
Date Posted: 05 Aug 12 at 21:50
| I got 99 problems but a fridge ain't one........I feel bad for thee son |
Posted By: jason k
Date Posted: 05 Aug 12 at 21:53
just relax with a pancake and a schmoke..........
 ------------- Bcs shallowest surf award winner 2006 camperjam 2011 chug and tug team member aberdare. south wales newest member of karmann korner no longer the only moderator to manage to ban himself |
Posted By: max and caddy
Date Posted: 05 Aug 12 at 22:56
| A findus crispy one? |
Posted By: Tee3
Date Posted: 05 Aug 12 at 23:30
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whatever happened to Horns? I liked him. ------------- YOU CANT EDUCATE GAMMON  http://www.tee3.co.uk/" rel="nofollow - http://www.tee3.co.uk/ |
Posted By: johnb
Date Posted: 06 Aug 12 at 11:01
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Defrost switch is a trace heater in the gas tank line to stop the prone icing in winter. ------------- My van is better known in these parts than I am |
Posted By: Mark-Hans
Date Posted: 06 Aug 12 at 16:56
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I never would have dreamed of such an idea. Is that something to do with a strange sort of block that sits just beyond the gas regulator under the Gas Flap? It's sort of square & silver, clips on the pipe and has a cable mysteriously disappearing into the van!..... I guess the answer is yes!..... I did wonder about that little box...... Thank you again........ Mark ------------- Mark..Amsterdam |
Posted By: xriss55
Date Posted: 06 Aug 12 at 21:57
DIMOND HELL a....legend and had dished out loads of good advice over the years  
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Posted By: jason k
Date Posted: 06 Aug 12 at 22:03
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and built a dodgy scoobyvelle.
------------- Bcs shallowest surf award winner 2006 camperjam 2011 chug and tug team member aberdare. south wales newest member of karmann korner no longer the only moderator to manage to ban himself |
Posted By: Tee3
Date Posted: 06 Aug 12 at 22:13
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Whatever happened to Dimond Hell? I liked him. ------------- YOU CANT EDUCATE GAMMON http://www.tee3.co.uk/" rel="nofollow - http://www.tee3.co.uk/ |
Posted By: tram-man
Date Posted: 15 Aug 12 at 20:27
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Rejoice and turneth thy fridge... Just returned from holiday and glad to report that the trick is to turn the fridge upside down (assuming all your elements are OK and the gas jet is clean). I get a temperature delta of 23 degrees in the fridge compared to inside of van after about 10 hours. Within an hour I can get a drop of 10 degrees. Much much better than before. The 23 degrees is also stable as I also tested with the van closed up and with the inside at 33 degrees the fridge gives me 10 degrees. On holiday on the colder nights I was almost getting close to zero. I also get about 20-23 on 220v hook-up but on gas it gets hot much quicker. On 12v I am not getting 23 degrees drop. I would say about 15 degrees. I also installed a computer fan to replace the Westy one. I looked at getting a low db fan that I could manually override on colder nights to give a little bit of heat. The low db fans generally tend to run at or below 1000rpm. The trade off is that the amount of air flow is lower. I don't have a link but I settled on a Sythe fan SY12255L. It runs at 800rpm. db was something like 18db. It works brilliantly. You can not hear it. You need to put you ear to the kitchen top to know if it is working. I installed a with over the thermosensor at the top of the fridge. I canlt say anything about the airflow but I can't imagine it is any worse than the old Westy one. When I was testing before we went on holiday I also noticed that the corrugated stainless flue running at the back of the fridge was pushing out a lot of heat which then circulates up into the van. I measured the temperature with a digital meat probe and it was 80degrees. So I bought some exhaust heat wrap to wrap the exposed part of the flue. I took it on holiday meaning to fit it there but our nights were quite cold and I was happy to get the heat with the fan on constantly. Because the van was open and ventilated and at outside temperature I didn't have the need to wrap the pipe. But it would definitely help when you park up on day trips and the van is closed up. Some pics.   ------------- '97 A4 AFN | '60 T1 ratlook | '57 Oval | Dec '82 T3 Westfalia 1Y+DK+215/60x16 |
Posted By: tram-man
Date Posted: 15 Aug 12 at 20:31
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the ebay.co.uk number for the heat wrap is200678224671 Stuart ------------- '97 A4 AFN | '60 T1 ratlook | '57 Oval | Dec '82 T3 Westfalia 1Y+DK+215/60x16 |
Posted By: griffer
Date Posted: 16 Jul 14 at 20:29
| hi I need a rm184 egi reignighter, they seem to be £65 on ebay, anyone got a source of these? off to france next week im in a bit of a panic |
Posted By: Stefvan
Date Posted: 25 Sep 15 at 22:36
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Just thought I'd add my tuppence to the thread. Messed around with the gas side of the fridge for weeks, got the fridge out and plumbed up to the barbecue take-off on the underfloor tank/regulator so I could see what is going on (Bear in mind, on 240V the fridge made ice & frost overnight all over the cooling fins inside, so I knew it *should* work). There was a flame going on, which was quite small, but I could feel on the coolant pipe that nothing was warming up and the ammonia wasn't flowing. I took out the burner jet and tried cleaning it by threading it on and spinning it on a copper speaker wire. Still the same. Changed the (rock hard) filter in the feed pipe. Same. Finally got a new burner jet from Gunzl, looking by eye at the two jets I could see that the new one was bigger. Fitted it, boom. From 15 to -3 and frosty fins within an hour. Now just got to figure out why the igniter clicks at double speed, and more importantly, doesn't want to turn off. Am I right in saying the thermocouple is a separate deal right, turns off the gas? That its either the sparker (which makes sparks and fires the gas up ok) or the igniter unit ? The running on gas light stays alight... and the flame stays alight PS thanks Joker_Club for starting this "pointless" thread ! Stefvan |
Posted By: mrhutch
Date Posted: 26 Sep 15 at 00:50
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Edited post due to unreadability.. use of carridge returns and basic punctuation makes the post easier to read... but more so I can quote RTC's possibly best ever post :
------------- T3 1981 Westy Vanagon - thinks lubricant is a fuel |
Posted By: brurud
Date Posted: 06 Jun 17 at 12:09
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Can anyone tell me. I have 83mod and it only have one element. Says 110v/12v. Is IT newer model That have separate from 110/12? I GOT a new one as the car is Canadian and I live in Norway. I wanna change it for a 230v so I can use shore power from Norway. The new element is 230v/10v it has four wires coming out of it, two and two are together in a "sock" there's no markings except the one pair has red lines. Where to put what? |
Posted By: GTIGaz
Date Posted: 14 Aug 17 at 15:09
I know this is a bit of a while ago but did you get this sorted Stefvan? I have 100% the same symptoms. Need to get me a new jet by the sounds of things.
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Posted By: GTIGaz
Date Posted: 30 Aug 17 at 09:51
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Hi all, New jet from Brickwerks fitted before I went away for the weekend. Had the fridge running at around 5 deg's even in the hot weather over the weekend (the fan works now too!), she's spot on now. The igniter has also not missed a beat so I guess that was because the flame was weak.
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Posted By: si macc
Date Posted: 25 Jul 18 at 09:00
| Hi everyone, seems to be the place for asking any fridge related questions! All the info has been really useful so far. I've taken my fridge out for servicing and replacing the 240v element. Finally managed to get the gas jet off but have broken the olive in the process. Can only find 4mm olives in copper. Is it ok to use copper and more importantly is it a 4mm pipe? Looks it but want to make sure. |