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how to fit front Foglights

Printed From: The Brick-yard
Category: T5 Section
Forum Name: T5 Chat
Forum Description: Forum for T5 specific chat
URL: http://www.brick-yard.co.uk/forum/forum_posts.asp?TID=28458
Printed Date: 01 Dec 21 at 16:21
Software Version: Web Wiz Forums 12.01 - http://www.webwizforums.com


Topic: how to fit front Foglights
Posted By: Dub4life
Subject: how to fit front Foglights
Date Posted: 12 Jul 08 at 18:57
After far too many questions and searches the front fogs are finally in and working! I hope to offer here what knowledge I have on the subject. In the end it didn't take long at all and could re-do it in about 2 hrs.

It would not be possible without Multiplex man/Hedgehog/Borg/Exocet....so thanks guys.
So to start, selecting materials, I made a real faux pas on this one. I purchased a 12v fog loom, should have known better...from Bulgaria, totally unsuitable so I went to carparts online and got the right loom.

Remove front inserts, by the way, rather than buy new inserts I got a 75mm hole saw/tank cutter and cut the holes out.
Next you need to select route, from switch to lamps. On the bulkhead/firewall as you look at the engine from infront top left there is a black panel that unscrews.

behind this panel you have access via rubber bungs to the void behind the dash (small hands required)
Remove the small round grommet and make a hole in the centre, feed the switch wire through, inside above the foot pedals you will need to remove the black panel where the VAG COM bus is. Looking up you will see the hole, push the wire through and get hold of the bugger.


When you have the wire fed through to where your switch is, you need to start going the other way, I followed the pre existing loom route and just cable tied to it, route down towards the lamps and looseley hang the connectors out of the fog holes.

Dash switch and wire.

under driver side next to horn
fog hole!
zip tie it all in tidy
Carry loom along to opposite lamp tying up in convenient and safe place

The earth wire needs to be attached to the Chassis, find a good ground area, I decided o locate it down by the first fog and self tapped onto a clean area of chassis.

At this point you should be able to fit in the lamps, they just screw in but have adjusters for lamp level that you may need to tweak later.


Inserts refitted with the big hole cut out.

Back up at the switch, I had a nightmare trying to find which terminal on the switch worked correctly, I had the lamps coming on with normal lights, side lights etc thanks to borg I got the right one! IT MUST GO TO THE ONE MARKED 'NL" on the back of the switch.

tricky and not much room to work. By the way the new switch is a very poor copy, if you can source another switch. I hoped this helped out a bit, please PM should you need any advice that I may have left out.
Viola!








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Motexion, not cheap plywood!



Replies:
Posted By: Dub4life
Date Posted: 13 Jul 08 at 08:27
Cost was OK. Lamps on Fleabay cost £40, loom + switch about £60 = £100.
VW prices worked out about £220.
The lamps don't come up often but car parts on line do them new for £25ea. Tried them out last night, wow they throw so much more lower light beneath the main beam and wide to the kerb,well pleasedBig%20smile


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Motexion, not cheap plywood!


Posted By: T5 TDI
Date Posted: 31 Aug 08 at 16:00
Just to explain about relays for anyone interested.  They are really just heavy duty switches that can be fitted anywhere on the van, no need for them to be on the dashboard.  This means we can have a small (and cheap to make!) light duty switches on the dash and the relays can be fitted closer to whatever they are suppyling.
 
The relay is fed with a small current from the switch when you switch it on. An elecrto-magnet inside the relay then clunks across completing a circuit for as long as the switch is left on.  From then onwards, all the load of whatever is switched on is carried by the wiring after the relay and the relay itself leaving the switch only carrying the small current needed to keep the relay 'energised'. 


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2004 2.5 174


Posted By: borg
Date Posted: 01 Sep 08 at 09:35
It does certainly need a relay otherwise the headlamp switch does get quite hot and so does the wiring loom going into the headlamp switch. The wiring loom is more worrying as it carries headlamp supply, if it melts could leave you with no headlights!

The wiring loom supplied in the kit is useless as it doesn't allow you to put the relay on it, without cutting the wiring loom to pieces. Fitting the relay before the headlamp switch would have no effect as the full load would still be passed through the headlamp switch coursing it to overheat.

I used my own wiring which I had going through the battery compartment in the engine bay. This is where I fitted the relay.

The relay takes one wire from the headlamp switch, one from the battery positive, one from the battery negative, and the final one goes to the fog lights. This means that the load comes from the battery not through the headlamp switch.



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