How to change T5 Auto Gearbox Oil
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URL: http://www.brick-yard.co.uk/forum/forum_posts.asp?TID=23701
Printed Date: 20 Apr 24 at 03:24
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Topic: How to change T5 Auto Gearbox Oil
Posted By: Rebuild
Subject: How to change T5 Auto Gearbox Oil
Date Posted: 16 Feb 08 at 05:54
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Started on gearbox oil change today. 13mm socket
Went for a bit of a drive to warm gearbox Raised vehicle on stands.Front wheels able to freewheel.Vehicle was not quite level, but ok for me, as i didn't feel comfortable raising the vehicle too high.Make sure you place vehicle supports so as to leave enough room for drain tub under gearbox.
Removed underbody sump guard/cover - 6 bolts, 13mm head Now the fun starts. Drain level tube up inside the sump drain can be removed with 5mm allen key.The tube is only plastic, so make sure the key is seated fully.
Drain the rest of the oil Collected some of the oil to check condition.Looks quite good  Remove two screws,10mm heads, holding coolant pipe to RHS of gearbox, and push the pipes out of the way a little.
Crack all seven sump bolts,10mm head.These were not overly tight, as they screw into aluminium. Now, sump is a little reluctant to drop away completely, as it fouls the frame member a little.Wiggle it a bit till it drops free.Watch out for seal rubber as you remove sump.  Examined sump pan and gearbox entrails.Refitted sump drain pipe.   Collected used oil and came out to about 3.5L.Oil looks reasonably good to my untrained eye.There is a little fuzz on the sump magnets, a little trash in base of sump.Overall quite good i think. Notice that gearbox magnets are not stuck down and can be removed for cleaning. Now to remove filter, 3 bolts, 10mm head.These are a little tighter than sump bolts, no thread lock.As you crack the filter bolts, more oil will drain.Remove filter.I was expecting a foam type filter plus mesh, but it is only a single gauze mesh type.There is some junk on the gauze. Pt No. 09K 325 429 (for 2004 T5 09K gearbox)
Removed fill pipe mounting bolt(up on the side of the gearbox) and removed fill pipe totally.The red cap is an awkward little sucker to remove successfully.Hopefully the pics show how it works.The grey plug has two flaps, set at 180 degrees that lock slightly to the flange of the pipe.If you squeeze the plug at 90 degrees to the flaps, the plug can be removed.
Refitted cleaned magnets to sump pan.DON'T FORGET.
Foot on brake, vehicle at idle only, ran through R-N-D pausing at each for approx 10 seconds. I think i will run it for a week or so, then recheck fluid level and if ok,refit red fill cap and sump guard/cover. All done. ------------- Steve 2004 T5 2.5 TDI |
Replies:
Posted By: T5 TDI
Date Posted: 16 Feb 08 at 23:05
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Nice post RB The requirement for the 1551 tool (VWs version of vag-com) ------------- 2004 2.5 174 |
mentioned in MMs post seems to be there really just to confirm the oil temp I suppose. I know it can check for fault codes too and I read that there are some adjustments that can be made that way but I certainly wouldn't dare do it. Posted By: Rebuild
Date Posted: 17 Feb 08 at 05:25
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I have read of increasing the line pressure on the older gearboxes.Reports of more positive shifts and less slip. http://forums.tdiclub.com/showthread.php?p=582617 - http://forums.tdiclub.com/showthread.php?p=582617 I could not see any such adjustment on this one, just wondering if the VAGCOM tool can do this electronically.Anyone care to look? ------------- Steve 2004 T5 2.5 TDI |
Posted By: Rebuild
Date Posted: 18 Feb 08 at 06:19
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OK,first decent drive today, and i have noticed much smoother shifting in the lower gears, whereas before it tended to clunk into each gear a little.Quite pleased with the improvement. ------------- Steve 2004 T5 2.5 TDI |
Posted By: jets
Date Posted: 20 Feb 08 at 23:14
| Very good write up Rebuild. When I did my T4 I used a trolley jack against the sump as I undid all the screws & gently lowered it down, didn't loose a drop. This may not work as well with the T5 because of the extra pipes. |
Posted By: Rebuild
Date Posted: 04 Jan 14 at 06:39
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I have edited the above procedure to reflect the removal of the level tube as an easier drain method.
137.2K km just an update on second partial oil change The filter was even cleaner this time, a little junk on the magnets ------------- Steve 2004 T5 2.5 TDI |
Posted By: vwstevens
Date Posted: 26 Mar 14 at 23:13
| A massive 'thank you' for the guide. My son in law used this to do an ATF change on my 54 Shuttle today. It has done 250,000 miles so it was well-overdue! The old fluid was almost black and very 'treacly' in the bottom of the drip tray so it was well worth doing! If it lasts another 250k I'll be well pleased. I wonder how many people have used your guide over the years since you wrote it? Cheers again for a great write-up and pictures....... |
Posted By: Ozevo
Date Posted: 01 Jan 15 at 09:45
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I'm a new year but am rapidly appreciating what a complex vehicle I have with my 06 t5 TDI Crewvan! Excellent description of auto trans oil change! My JUM auto did not have a filler pipe as per this thread (found this out after I drained the oil; d'oh!) so I had to make up a filler pipe to screw in to the drain plug thread (3/8 UNF thread, happy to supply details) and pump the penrite DXVI oil in that way, as per my Elsawin manual. However.... After replacing the red plastic level tube, Initially I could not replace as much oil as I took out. (3.6 litre out, only 2.6 back in initially) the oil kept on running back out with the inline off after selecting R,N and D for 10 secs each with and then turning the engine off. Upon consulting the Elsawin manual again i discovered that it coyly says that the auto box with no filler tube transmission oil level should be checked with the engine running. Sure enough I was able to get the additional oil (total approx 3.6 litres) back in with the auto with the engine running with the auto in 'P'. The van was on level ground etc., and a new auto filter and gasket had been installed. Should the auto trans level be checked with the engine running? How should I check the oil level? Engine on or off? |
Posted By: Ozevo
Date Posted: 01 Jan 15 at 09:48
| Ps; new year = newbie! |
Posted By: Ozevo
Date Posted: 01 Jan 15 at 09:50
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PPS, 'old' oil was very dark and had a burnt smell about it. |
Posted By: Rebuild
Date Posted: 01 Jan 15 at 10:31
motor running, to check auto gearbox oil level. Most likely the TC and pump sit higher than the gearbox sump, and need to have the fluid circulating, hence you will get more fluid in, when running. The VW manual quotes a certain oil temp also (30-40C i think), but i never bothered. ------------- Steve 2004 T5 2.5 TDI |
Ozevo wrote:Posted By: Ozevo
Date Posted: 01 Jan 15 at 22:42
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Thanks for the prompt reply, Rebuild! I will leave the motor under-shield off and run the van for a week or so and then check again. What with spillages (me being clumsy) I used all the 4 litres in the Penrite DX-VI pack. I assume its available in 1 litre packs for top ups. HNY to all!
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Posted By: Alonline
Date Posted: 05 Jan 15 at 14:17
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Very similar to doing the Porsche auto boxes. There oil goes black/dark red and lumpy and blocks the filter with what looks like half set jelly. I drain the box, refill, run it for about a week and then change again, you get allot of crap out with new fluid. New filter and new fluid and then all is well. Makes a big difference to the box when done. VW like porsche said never change it, I do them around 70K as the fluid appears to go off. The filter I had was mesh on top but more a paper element lower down. Good write up!
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Posted By: richiet5
Date Posted: 31 Jan 15 at 23:46
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Hi there is the level tube located inside the drain plug? How do I check my atf level? thanks ------------- t5 |
Posted By: Rebuild
Date Posted: 04 Feb 15 at 03:54
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is the level tube located inside the drain plug? Yes How do I check my atf level? I think i explained it well enough above(did you even read it?), but here it is again. - engine running, vehicle on level ground - gearbox oil at approx 30-40C.To do it properly you need VAG software to read oil temp - remove gearbox sump plug - oil should only drip out, if at all. - if low, fill as above main text, or an adapter to sump plug as per Ozevo - if high, let it drain. - refit sump plug ------------- Steve 2004 T5 2.5 TDI |
Posted By: Alonline
Date Posted: 04 Feb 15 at 09:35
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I do the Porsche like Ed China, laser thermometer, as long as it is warm the fluid will flow easily. Maybe I am doing it all wrong but on them it works?
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Posted By: andyt5
Date Posted: 12 May 16 at 08:34
------------- Andy |
Posted By: sunny43.5
Date Posted: 12 May 16 at 11:06
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Whilst this is an old post it reminds me of how bad a design this auto was . how could VW have expected the fluid to remain pristine inside the sealed box . When our auto failed because VW dealers would not do the service at 60000 kilometres we found the fluid was BLACK the sludge in the sump pan was so thick I wrote my initials in it then the filter was completely blocked with debris etc . This had caused ours to self detonate bloody expensive to rebuild , all because those idiots at VW seemed to think the fluid would last . They sold the auto as a "Sealed for Life "but they would never disclose what was "Life " . Then they had the gall to release the DSG and then let everyone know that they SHOULD be serviced at 60000 and guess where the filter is in a DSG yep OUTSIDE the box hmm I smell a rat . |
Posted By: Rebuild
Date Posted: 12 May 16 at 11:39
Andy, in future don't quote the orig post, it's unnecessary. I'm not familiar with later models. The gearbox can also be filled through the drain hole in the sump with a suitable fitting as referenced above by Ozevo ------------- Steve 2004 T5 2.5 TDI |
Posted By: Ozevo
Date Posted: 12 May 16 at 14:35
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Hi, I changed the trans. oil (to Penrite) as suggested on this thread and had a couple of months of trouble-free motoring, then the auto started playing up with poor (mushed) upward gear changes and bad baulking as it selected the lower gears coming to a halt. I changed the oil again and found small particles of metal on the filter, reset the transmission memory but the problem got no better. Having found the only Auto Transmission repair shop in Victoria to look at the problems I took it for a computer analysis which interestingly presented no active transmission fault codes. However I was advised last july that the transmission was destroying itself and I was presented with a full $6400 rebuild!!! Given that the van is worth squat with a stuffed 'box, I booked it in. Now, I have no allegiance to this organisation but was extremely happy with the service I received. The Manager, Sid Quintal has a lot of experience with these boxes and although he doesn't do too many these days he has done quite a few in the past!!! The van was dropped off on Monday and I picked it up Thursday lunch time. The following work was done; New Gaskets, Seals, Rings And Oil Seals New Friction Plates New Band New Oil Filter New Bushings New Bearings New Servo Piston Assembly New Aftermarket Forward & Direct Clutch Drum New Electrical Solenoid Block Transgo Correction Kit Remanufactured Quality Torque Converter New OEM Gaskets, Seals, Rings And Oil Seals New Friction Plates New Oil Filter New OEM Updated Wave Ring New OEM Oil Pump Half Assembly New OEM Solenoids Remanufactured Quality Torque Converter Dyno Tested To Ensure Smooth Operation After all the preliminary tests are carried out and
accepted, our transmissions are all built in an environmentally controlled area
where we ensure the best rebuilding practises are followed and our quality
control is strictly adhered to. When the rebuild process is completed, all our
transmissions are dyno & leak tested prior to shipping or installation and
fluid filled to allow for a cooler flow check to be performed in the vehicle. 2 Year/50,000km warranty (Non Commercial Vehicles) applies to our fully rebuilt transmission and torque-converter assemblies which have all been through testing for Valve-Body/Mechatronic operation, component leak down, clearance and specification check, before being assembled. Once assembled, they are then dyno tested prior to shipping or fitting. For those of you interested this is where I went Sid Quintal Service Manager A&B Automotive Remanufacturing 12-14 Cahill Street, Dandenong South Victoria. 3175 Ph: 03 9768 3755 Fax: 03 9768 3543 E-Mail: mailto:sid@abautomatics.com.au" rel="nofollow - sid@abautomatics.com.au I had a quick tour of the workshop facility which is impressive and spotless. Interesting to see the number of prestige cars there that have endemic auto box issues that A&B repair, they have the only Australian licence to repair ZF boxes. I hope this helps.  ------------- Bruce 07 (06 build) TDI Auto Crewvan |
Posted By: Rebuild
Date Posted: 05 Oct 18 at 11:48
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Have been having problems of the auto thumping into Drive, on first selection, the last 1500km or so, so have done another partial oil change and filter. At 160K now, so only 23K since last. Details here, http://www.vwwatercooled.com.au/forums/f136/torque-converter-auto-not-dsg-t5-thumps-ino-drive-when-cold-124441.html" rel="nofollow - http://www.vwwatercooled.com.au/forums/f136/torque-converter-auto-not-dsg-t5-thumps-ino-drive-when-cold-124441.html Oil didn't look real flash when inspected, and the sump pan had some rubber type soft particles. First pic, removed oil on left, new on right   Gearbox may be going in shortly for full dismantle and rebuild
------------- Steve 2004 T5 2.5 TDI |
Posted By: Rebuild
Date Posted: 22 Nov 18 at 04:08
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Gearbox is fixed. K1 clutch clearances over spec and seals damaged, causing the thumping. Anyway, all fixed.Dave at Automatics of Marion (Adelaide) did his various modifications that he does for these, and some other stuff (K1 piston and friction fibres replaced, new more reliable small can solenoids, air cooler). Refilled with my choice of Penrite ATF FS. All up $3500 AUish. ------------- Steve 2004 T5 2.5 TDI |
Posted By: T5 TDI
Date Posted: 23 Nov 18 at 21:02
Another great post Rebuild.  Since we have now lost the separate modifications board (due to the fact that it's been like a graveyard around here for the last few years) I'm keen to put all of the how to do's and fixes in one findable place. I am gradually collecting all of the links to those threads but there are 350 + other threads to look through to find them. I need to check that all the links work and are in some kind of order. There are some good threads written by others but it is looking embarrassingly like the the Rebuild & T5 TDI show so far. I don't really care as long as we preserve all the work that has been done so far. It won't be up for a while but I will try and get it made a sticky as Greg has suggested.I don't think anything is lost (apart from pictures that have been photobucketed) it's just question of some organising. I'm quite enjoying reading the old stuff dating back a decade or more. Anyway, if you (or anyone else) has words/pic for any jobs that you have done but not posted about, post 'em up and we can build up our manual.
------------- 2004 2.5 174 |
Posted By: Charlie Dog
Date Posted: 29 Dec 19 at 10:43
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Fantastic account Alonline, thank you very much :o) You wrote: - Lightly cracked the gearbox drain,5mm key.Unscrewed fully.Oil poured out quite significantly for a bit, was not expecting this as i thought it would only weep.Gearbox must have been overfilled from factory.Also angle i had vehicle at should also have ensured no draining either. Waited till oil only weeping.Turned engine off.Drain level tube up inside the sump drain can be removed with 5mm allen key.The tube is only plastic, so make sure the key is seated fully.
Drain the rest of the oil How much oil did you get out when you "Drain the rest of the oil " please? |
Posted By: Rebuild
Date Posted: 29 Dec 19 at 21:22
from my OP ------------- Steve 2004 T5 2.5 TDI |
Posted By: Charlie Dog
Date Posted: 30 Dec 19 at 12:15
Thank you Steve. Have you included the oil that came out before you took the "Drain Level Tube" out in the 3.5L please? If so please would you guestimate how much oil came out after you took the drain level tube out please? Or, if you prefer, how much came out before you took the drain level tube out please? I'm thinking about simply draining via the drain level tube, and then topping up again. After all, half a loaf is better than no loaf.
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Posted By: Rebuild
Date Posted: 30 Dec 19 at 13:55
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how much oil came out after i took the drain level tube out? about 3.5L before? not much, can't remember.It was a while ago The auto holds around 7 litres. On a drain and refill as above you will only remove about half the oil.Thus the 3.5L collected.The rest stays in the torque converter/pump It is quite simple to check the level. With the engine running, and gearbox up to temp, and the vehicle on level ground, you remove the gearbox sump plug.Because of the inner drain tube, nothing or almost nothing should drip out, if the level is correct. I don't advise doing a cold drain and refill, guessing the amount to replace, but it is up to you. If you simply replace what comes out, should be ok (providing the level is correct to begin with). I would also strongly advise changing the internal filter, especially if you have a few miles on.They do block up, which can cause big problems. ------------- Steve 2004 T5 2.5 TDI |
Posted By: Charlie Dog
Date Posted: 30 Dec 19 at 14:07
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Thank you very much Steve. So, the level tube lets about half the oil out. My box was replaced short while ago. I doubt the car will get to the mileage that requires the filter changing in my ownership. Replacing half the oil each year seems reasonably easy bit of conscience banking. Or whatever you wish to call it. What do you reckon please? |
Posted By: Rebuild
Date Posted: 30 Dec 19 at 22:44
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Yes, that is my plan still, after the repair work, although i will be shortening the intervals now to around 40-50K km. And it is still better than VW's "sealed for life" rubbish ------------- Steve 2004 T5 2.5 TDI |
Posted By: Charlie Dog
Date Posted: 03 Jan 20 at 11:53
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Thanks Steve :o) If I can be a bit tongue in cheek, I think VW's "Sealed for life" statement is pretty accurate. I translate it as saying summat like, "Your box will go a knacker early on because you can't service it."
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Posted By: Charlie Dog
Date Posted: 15 Jan 20 at 08:54
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https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=xgVFvssMY4g" rel="nofollow - https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=xgVFvssMY4g |