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Passenger door lock problem

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mattpalmer83 View Drop Down
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    Posted: 09 Aug 13 at 14:27
Hi guys, just registered and looking for a bit of help if possible.
 
Having a bit of trouble with my T5 passenger door lock.
 
Basically the passenger door lock is temperamental with the central locking, sometime it opens and locks without a problem(not very often.) Other times it will either open and not lock or vice versa. I normally have to manually unlock it by pulling the handle from the inside or lock by pushing the pin down.

Another problem the other day was that it had locked and stayed on dead lock (I think) so when I pulled the handle from inside the lock popped up but as soon as I let go of the handle the pin went down. The way around it was to hold the inside handle whilst pressing open in the key fob and it worked, almost as though something inside the lock handn't engaged.

Even when the lock is in the locked position and won't open, if you look at the pin whilst pressing the open button on the key you can see it trying to move.

I have read about the comfort module etc but at present it seems to be isolated to the one lock and there is obviouly a signal getting through to the mechanism as the pin moves (and sometimes works.) Normally as soon as I either open it or lock it manually, the next lock or unlock function will work.

What I did notice yesterday when stood outside the passenger side and the lock was working that the mechanism appeared very loud. A hard noise to explain but it sounded dry. The closest noise I can think of is when you clear your throat but extend that noise for a couple of seconds. I'm sure that isn't right ?? Almost like a grinding noise. It is noticable from inside as well

I will be stripping it soon, just wandered if the lock mech can be stripped or whether it is a sealed unit. Just want to know if it can be taken apart without random bits of metal and springs exploding around the room.
Hoping some WD 40 etc will work. A new mech is around 140 so dont want to go down that route if I can help it.
 
Any advice would be great.
 
Thanks
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote Rebuild Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 09 Aug 13 at 14:50
almost exactly the same as my problem.
locking problem is usually corrosion in  the 3way wire splice(blue/red stripe with plain black, off it) under the drivers seat.Resoldering usually fixes it 
 
For noisy door lock mech,
door lock removal


Edited by Rebuild - 09 Aug 13 at 14:54
Steve
2004 LWB 2.5 TDI 128KW auto
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Vanorak
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote T5 TDI Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 09 Aug 13 at 15:30
Welcome Matt,  It sounds like a physical problem with the N/S lock itself to me rather than a problem with any controller or the wiring.  The lock isn't much fun to remove. Have a search around for some good lock threads here.  If it was me I'd take the door trim off and try a good lubing plus watching and working the lock before removing it.  Make sure the window is up before spraying around to avoid oiling the glass.
.
Just to confirm- normally if you lock the doors with the remote with a single press they are double locked and no amount of pulling on the inside handle will open the door.  If you lock the doors with a double press of the remote the doors they are single locked and two pulls of the inside handle opens them.
.
Greg (gregozedobe) wrote a good clear description of how the locks should be working.  Well worth looking at.  Most folks don't even realize you can wind up the windows using the ignition key. Wink
 
Edit- Just seen Steve's post- That's one of the good threads I mentioned!  Big smile
      


Edited by T5 TDI - 09 Aug 13 at 15:37
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mattpalmer83 View Drop Down
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote mattpalmer83 Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 09 Aug 13 at 15:37
Thankyou both for the replies. I was edging towards the lock itself just by the way it is making a noise. I thought it would be a pain to remove but think I will start there. Although to be honest I may just take out the seat and check the wiring as tat should hopefully be a relatively straight forward job.
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote T5 TDI Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 09 Aug 13 at 16:08
It can't hurt to check that splice.  Not had a problem with mine yet 80k/9.5 years but I gather it's common enough..  Make sure to post your findings. Smile
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mattpalmer83 View Drop Down
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote mattpalmer83 Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 09 Aug 13 at 19:06
Well, i have come to the decision that I will check the wiring first as it looks an easier job than the lock. Stuck my hand down to see if there was enough slack to do it without removing the seat (as some people have found) however there wasn't. But, since having had a fiddle, it has worked better than it has done for a while....so maybe the connection is dodgy.

Went to take the seat off the base but after undoing the front nuts, I realised I don't have the correct size bit to undo the bolts holding the back part of the seat on (circular head with loads of grooves). Will have to source one tomorrow from somewhere
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote T5 TDI Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 09 Aug 13 at 21:55
Mine has bolts with a nut on the top like these- http://www.brick-yard.co.uk/forum/t5-single-seat-to-bench-seat-bolts_topic37718.html
.
 
 It's worth including all your van details if you want accurate advice...Smile
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mattpalmer83 View Drop Down
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote mattpalmer83 Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 09 Aug 13 at 22:35
Sorry, thought I had put that on my signature. I have a SWB T30 05 on a 54. 1.9 104. The rear bolts on the seat are triple square/spline so have to pick up the bits tomorrow.
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote gregozedobe Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 12 Aug 13 at 17:03
Originally posted by mattpalmer83 mattpalmer83 wrote:

The rear bolts on the seat are triple square/spline so have to pick up the bits tomorrow.

Yep, T5's use lots of triple-square bolts, and smaller fasteners are often 6 point torx.


Edited by gregozedobe - 12 Aug 13 at 17:04
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mattpalmer83 View Drop Down
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote mattpalmer83 Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 12 Aug 13 at 23:42
Well bought myself some triple square bits, took the seat out, strpped back the cables and there was some green corrosion on the crimp. Not the worst example I have seen but some. Joint has now been re-doneSmile
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote damovdv Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 02 Feb 17 at 16:08
Did you get a resolve for this problem?

I have checked the splice and it was good.  Re soldered it anyway but my passenger door still wont open on fob. I can unlock it manually from inside and have to lock it manually. 

I cant even hear a hint of the door mechanism trying to unlock on the fob either. Any other ideas while I have the matt out?  

All other doors lock and unlock on fob everytime.

Would greatly appreciate some insight and dont want to go to vw for this. I am bleeding enough money already with the conversion.






Edited by damovdv - 02 Feb 17 at 22:04
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Stryne View Drop Down
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote Stryne Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 03 Feb 17 at 00:30
Welcome damovdv,

by your description it looks like no power getting to the lock actuator for whatever reason, or the lock motor
has given up, here are a few links to articles, etc, that might be of help - 


or paste this line into Google search   passenger door site:http://www.brick-yard.co.uk/forum  for more
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote gasone Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 07 Feb 17 at 19:27
I have had this problem myself now for over 6 months I did think of changing the lock but decided on getting a proper auto electrician , he removed the door panel and put a gadget on 3 wires that tell me when the door is locking that turns the neon red for a second or green when it opens , unfortunately it hasn't failed properly since 
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote wigwam Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 28 Nov 17 at 01:43
My VW T5 2005 model, has just (Nov 2017) started up with what seems to be a well known "can't unlock the passenger door" problem.   Because of the situation being urgent, and I needed to fuel to complete a delivery job,   I decided to cut through the small plastic tab which holds the fuel flap tethered to the passenger door - thus allowing me to fill up with fuel.   I'll figure out if the wiring corrosion problem is at fault as soon as I get the chance.   But I mention this to say you don't need to mark the exterior of the van in any way to pass a  mini - hacksaw blade through the small gap between the fuel flap and the passenger door.
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote T5 TDI Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 28 Nov 17 at 08:28

Good oneThumbs Up The plastic tab on my fuel flap however has been missing for about 10 years since it disappeared one day. I did wonder if the flap would open at high speed but it never has.

The connection is fairly straightforward. I took the seat out on mine which is surpringly heavy. You also need to undo the bolts on the handbrake lever, the plastic   cover for this has a little secret button that releases it.
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote wigwam Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 12 Dec 17 at 06:51
So far, in pursuit of the passenger door not unlocking problem,   I've taken the top part of the driver's side seat off to investigate.   VW seem to have made that harder than need be.  eg. two different types of fasteners - the two rear fasteners holding the seat in place, use an odd spline type allen key to undo, and the other two fasteners at the front - a standard hexagonal nut coming away from a fixed bolt.  Anyway, with the top part of the seat off, I cut away all the black cloth tape from the bundle of wires leading from the junction of wires box,  down to the floor mat.   There I came upon a join in the blue and red striped wire, under some insulating tape.   A strange looking spliced join was revealed when I cut away the insulating tape.  No sign of corrosion.   This join, is a pressed join with the copper looking bright and shining.  One wire leading from the join goes nowhere - it has a clean cut and taped end as if to make it available for some feature on other models.   So no corroded join.  As thing are, passengers still enter via the sliding door and then between the seats.Ouch
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote sbennetts Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 03 Apr 18 at 15:18
Hi there, did you get anywhere?  I've got the same issue.  Crimp joint is fine - still cannot get door open.  Tried a number of suggestions including thumping the door around the lock area whilst pressing the unlock on the fob, WD40 everywhere and just keep firing the unlock button at it - all to no avail.

Car in for an MOT in the next week and need it open.
 
Someone must have something for us?
 
I've also tried removing the door card without being able to unlock the door but cannot get the step for the trim out to get to the bottom screws.

What about the little grommet at the back of the door, I can see a T3 (or 20) bolt in there - is that a magic bolt that makes everything better?  Confused

Thanks
Simon
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote Happy Yellow Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 22 Jul 18 at 20:47
Hi all

I had this problem with my driver's door in February. I ended out replacing the lock unit (€150).

Now the passenger's side has started playing up. Seems these lock units have a limited life built into them! Very accurate engineering VW! Looks like I'll be spending another €150

Rupert

Edited by Happy Yellow - 22 Jul 18 at 20:47
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote T5 TDI Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 23 Jul 18 at 17:06
You can get dirt cheap locks on ebay now.  I bought one because my drivers side lock started mucking about but it's cured itself for now.  It certainly looks pretty good quality.  I think it was about 26 UKP.  

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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote Delfhill Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 24 Jul 18 at 17:36
Just replaced my driver's side lock with a ebay sourced item,
£23.99. Works well, but a real pain to fit. Could probably do it in half the time now having done it once. I followed the threads on here which were a great help.
4Motion 130 window van, medium roof, camper conversion.
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