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Occasional brake light failure - cylinder switch?

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pootle View Drop Down
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    Posted: 09 Jun 12 at 16:24
Twice now I've been approached at traffic ligths by the driver of the car behind me, "Your brake lights aren't working". But when I get home they seemed fine.

Checked them over today, cleaned the earth, bulbs, switch contacts etc. But once or twice they did indeed only come on when the engine was running and pedal pressed hard (they usually come on even without engine running).

Is this a normal failure mode for the brake light switch on the master cylinder or should I look elsewhere?

many thanks
Pootle
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote icosahedron Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 09 Jun 12 at 19:03
An '89 model should have two brake light switches fitted to the master cylinder. They are wired in such a way so that the brake warning light comes on permanently when one of the switches fails or becomes intermittent. Since the brake lights still work with one faulty switch, some people then disable the brake warning light. When the second switch fails or becomes intermittent you are then left without brake lights and no brake warning light. I would test the switches with an ohm meter.


Edited by icosahedron - 09 Jun 12 at 19:08
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote Spyke Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 09 Jun 12 at 22:50
Also check the wiring isn't rubbing off the body where a grommit is missing etc.
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote Hawklord Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 10 Jun 12 at 10:42
And check that there is brake fluid in the reservoir
If the engine 'aint in the back, it's cack!
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote pootle Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 10 Jun 12 at 11:44
Originally posted by icosahedron icosahedron wrote:

Since the brake lights still work with one faulty switch, some people then disable the brake warning light.

The brake warning light hasn't been disabled. It comes on with the handbrake.

Originally posted by icosahedron icosahedron wrote:

An '89 model should have two brake light switches fitted to the master cylinder.

Ah ha, the Haynes manual (see below, click for bigger pic) shows two switches in parallel, presumably for reliability. Since the brake lights are not working properly I guess both of them are faulty. Should I change them both?

It's easy to get to the one near the front, what about the one at the back?




Edited by pootle - 10 Jun 12 at 11:58
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote icosahedron Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 10 Jun 12 at 19:59
In that case the intermittent fault must lie with the +12V supply from the fusebox to the brake switches. If this supply voltage was present and the fault with a switch or open connection then your brake warning light would've come on permanently

Edit:

Right, please ignore my posts. I've since looked at your wiring diagram and noticed that my van, an aircooled originally, is wired differently. Here is how mine is wired to the brake warning light:




Edited by icosahedron - 10 Jun 12 at 20:25
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote pootle Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 10 Jun 12 at 21:39
Originally posted by icosahedron icosahedron wrote:

Edit: Right, please ignore my posts.

:)

Looking at the diagram I'm pretty sure it works this way:  The switches are normally open. When the pedal is pressed they close and the lights come on. If either switch fails open circuit the other will still operate the brake lights. If either switch fails closed the brake lights will be on permanently.

In my case one of  the switches must have failed open circuit years ago without me knowing (since the brake lights will still work). Now the other switch is starting to fail the same way so the brake lights are starting to play up.

I'll buy a couple and try to change them both.

Cheers for the advice.


Edited by pootle - 10 Jun 12 at 21:39
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote pootle Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 11 Jun 12 at 22:18
Well, easy enough to change both switches. I took the speedo/clock binnacle off completely by whipping out all the switches, which was easy and very quick.

Removing the old switches needs a 22mm ring spanner or stubby spanner because there isn't much room. I managed to get a 22mm socket on the rear one, with a long extension bar from beneath the dash.

The ETKA part number is 113-945-515H for the 2-pin part. I needed two. VW parts are £19 each but Heritage had none in stock so I used GSF parts, £5 each.


Edited by pootle - 11 Jun 12 at 22:19
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