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Jammy75 View Drop Down
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    Posted: 24 Jul 18 at 15:51
Hi, had my LT35 since March and its always run hot, never had the overheating light come on, but, the needle is right at the top end of the gauge whenever I go up a hill or on a motorway run, have to flick on the electric rad fan (already install when I got the van) and turn the heater/blower on full to get it to drop to 3/4 mark on the gauge.  I've swapped out the thermostat, changed the coolant and checked the water pump for signs that its on the way out, but, from what I've read here sounds like a new rad maybe the answer.  How difficult is it to get the rad out, can it be done from underneath without lifting the van?  The haynes manual gives a very short paragraph on it.

Thanks,

Jammy    
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (1) Thanks(1)   Quote Monster LT Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 24 Jul 18 at 23:04
Hi Jammy,
Are you talking Mk1 LT here? Add info to your signature so we know how to answer.
Interesting that it has an electronic fan. So there was a problem with overheating when you purchased the van?
Did you flush radiator when changing fluid? Maybe worth checking the flow rate with a hose before pulling it off. Do you have access to a digital IR thermometer? Could be worth comparing in & out flow temp.
Pulling the rda off is no big deal from what I remember. Helpful if you can lay your hands on jack & stands as you'll need to get underneath.

Retorical Q's but since you mention it: How long ago was the water pump replaced? Unrelated to temp. but... how about the cam belt age / condition? Pump and belt cost little but apparently need replacement every 5 years / 50,000 km ... or is that miles?




Edited by Monster LT - 24 Jul 18 at 23:08
LT45-TD-ACL-intercooler-4x4-1993
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Jammy75 View Drop Down
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote Jammy75 Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 25 Jul 18 at 11:36
It's a mk1 2.4td 1994, flushed the coolant out, and filled/drained a few times before putting in the new coolant, bit of muck came out, but, not a lot.  A friend has an IR thermometer, I'll get it from him & check the temperature of the inlet/outlet of the rad, before having a go at pulling the rad.  Fella I bought it off had it for three years and clocked up 3000 km in that time, when he bought the van the water pump and cam belt had just been done, they do look new.  I have a jack and stands guessing most of the work is done from underneath, don't want to find out I'd slaved away only to discover it comes out easy by removing the front grille.

Thanks Monster    
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (1) Thanks(1)   Quote robbydoo Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 25 Jul 18 at 13:35
Have you tried changing the temp sensor first? it may be worth the investment in that before the hard work of changing the Rad?
 
Just out of interest have you checked the condition of the water pump, the impellors do fail on them and stop the sufficient flow of coolant....
 
Rob
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (1) Thanks(1)   Quote byroad Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 25 Jul 18 at 16:46
hi jammy. by saying you turn on the heater and fan on,pretty much answers the question,on doing that you get rid of heat,doing what a radiator should be doing,so if you decide to change the rad,and i think thats the prob,I've changed mine already and i drove the front of the van on ramps,its a bit safer and more solid.It is a bit of a wriggle on you own,but do able,and i'm an old geazer. good luck.
old truckers don't die, they get a camper!
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote robbydoo Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 26 Jul 18 at 09:28
Just re-read your post and you've stated you've checked the pump....did you take it fully out?
 
From what you've said the problem is and what you have done already it sounds more like an electrical problem more than a mechanical one.........
 
If it was your radiator it would be pretty bunged up to allow it to run that hot.......how long does it take for the gauge to go to the top?
 
Rob
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote Monster LT Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 26 Jul 18 at 23:23
Originally posted by robbydoo robbydoo wrote:

Have you tried changing the temp sensor first? it may be worth the investment in that before the hard work of changing the Rad?
 
Just out of interest have you checked the condition of the water pump, the impellors do fail on them and stop the sufficient flow of coolant....
 
Rob

Just for the record...
The impellors that do fail are the one made of plastic ( Febi make these Wacko ). If the impellor is a cast metal they are unlikely to be a problem ever.
LT45-TD-ACL-intercooler-4x4-1993
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robbydoo View Drop Down
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote robbydoo Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 27 Jul 18 at 13:33
Originally posted by Monster LT Monster LT wrote:

Originally posted by robbydoo robbydoo wrote:

Have you tried changing the temp sensor first? it may be worth the investment in that before the hard work of changing the Rad?
 
Just out of interest have you checked the condition of the water pump, the impellors do fail on them and stop the sufficient flow of coolant....
 
Rob

Just for the record...
The impellors that do fail are the one made of plastic ( Febi make these Wacko ). If the impellor is a cast metal they are unlikely to be a problem ever.
 
I agree......................but always best to check when faced with an overheating problem eh......
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote Monster LT Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 27 Jul 18 at 22:43
Sure. Just saying for anyone reading in future and may have overheating probs or is getting a new pump, to be aware of the plastic impellor. 
Having said that if this is an ACL engine built in '93 / '94  we're talking about it's not likely to have one with the plastic. It should have the cast metal one. Not saying that these pumps don't fail for other reasons either. Failure of pump can be real subtle, virtually no sign until you fully examine it. Mine had an internal seal displaced and was still going strong except a tiny dropplet appearing at the weep hole, which can be normal when fitting a new pump anyway. Wasn't until I got the cam belt off that I realised how difficult is was to spin the spline compared to a new pump. I spotted the problem on a hunch and had an excuse to do the cam belt.


Edited by Monster LT - 27 Jul 18 at 22:57
LT45-TD-ACL-intercooler-4x4-1993
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Jammy75 View Drop Down
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote Jammy75 Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 30 Jul 18 at 11:16
Took a few days off, but, thanks for all the info fellas.  Which temp sensor are you referring to, the one on the top of the coolant reservoir?  Haven't had the pump out, but, LT monster gave advice on checking it over when the coolant was out via the hoses and a cam in a previous post. 
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote Monster LT Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 30 Jul 18 at 23:36
Thing on top of resevoir is a level sender. Below water pump is temp sensor.
A clogged rad (if that's what is causing this overheating) can be cleared although maybe not fully depending. Backflush with pressure (all hoses off). Soak with degunking chemicals? I'd make sure it is the rad that's the problem though before replacing. Did you check it by hand or with a thermometer? Any tell tale cold spots?
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Jammy75 View Drop Down
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote Jammy75 Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 03 Aug 18 at 14:50
Havent checked the rad with the IR thermometer yet, have the van in storage and getting there during a week night is pain, I long for a drive to put her on.  Found a pic I'd taken of the engine, It shows the level sender on the top of the resevoir, but also show two sensors (one black & one yellow) in the pipe from the resevoir to the head are these temp related?  
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (1) Thanks(1)   Quote Monster LT Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 03 Aug 18 at 23:18
Yep. Those are coolant temp sensors too.
Search for ETKA and you can find parts lists & diagrams. Very helpful when trying to figure out whats what and get replacement parts.
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (1) Thanks(1)   Quote AndyT Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 04 Aug 18 at 00:20
Had a rad re-cored a few years ago, before they did any work it was first soaked overnight.
No idea what chemicals they used but it might be an option.
LT28 1979 2.0 Pampas Nevada Camper LPG 93K, 1980 T3 A/C Camper 98K,1994 RRC 3.9 LPG 120k , 1998 Audi A6 Est 2.5 V6 diesel 127k

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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (1) Thanks(1)   Quote SteveSt Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 11 Aug 18 at 18:27
When I put a new head on my 2.4TD a few years back, the engine overheated as soon as the LT went back on the road, had obviously been overheating for some time before the new head was fitted - as the old head was badly cracked. Only did about 10 slow miles without the stat to prove there was an issue (new temp sensor fitted during top end rebuild).
I was lucky enough to find a place over Sunbury (West London) that had a rebuilt rad in stock.
As this was 5 years back I doubt they still have them. (and I cannot find them online today)
I still have my old one behind the shed in the garden if you want that for re-coring so you can do a straight swap-out. (If that makes sense)


LT31 1991 2.4 TD Florida Westphalia • Honda ST1100 • Ford Tourneo Connect
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robbydoo View Drop Down
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (1) Thanks(1)   Quote robbydoo Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 13 Aug 18 at 08:41
I'm led to believe that you cannot get the originals re-cored as the cores are not available anymore.......
 
I had to buy a new replacement..........
1985 LT40 2.4TD Coach built Pioneer Diamond
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (1) Thanks(1)   Quote Dreamcatcher Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 13 Aug 18 at 17:13
As far as I am aware,the core is aluminium and can't be repaired. The cost of re core at last count was more than a new rad from Holland.
Dave 1991 LT31 Camper
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Jammy75 View Drop Down
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote Jammy75 Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 22 Aug 18 at 15:18
Hi Gents,

Just a quick one to say I've bought various temperature sensors, havent fitted them yet, vans due an oil change, I'll put in the sensors at the same time as I change the oil and oil cooler.  Not sure if it'll do much but, a lad I work with said it could make a difference.  Is there anyway to check/remove the water pump without removing belts etc?

Thanks,

Jammy



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Jammy75 View Drop Down
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote Jammy75 Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 14 Dec 18 at 16:56
Hi fellas,

Back again, I still haven't sorted the temp gauge, took the camper in for a water pump change and the garage said it didn't need it. The temp sensors I bought were wrong, I've used 7zap to find the part numbers (https://volkswagen.7zap.com/en/rdw/lt+lt+4x4/lt/1994-109/9/919-112010/), but it throws up a few options for an ACL engine. My question is does anyone know the part number of the yellow 4 pin temp sensor?
Thanks,

Jamie
1994 LT35E 2.4TD
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote mojo Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 15 Dec 18 at 06:49
Do you mean they didn't change the pump or they changed it and the old one was ok?
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