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hooliganATV View Drop Down
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    Posted: 25 Dec 17 at 13:47
Hi guys,

Figured I would introduce my self.

My name's Shane, I picked up a 1990 hi top camper LT35 convert. 2.4petrol with 49k on the clock (original).

So it's needs a bit of tlc here and there. Modernising and cleaning but generally it's all good

I do have a couple of questions I plan on using it this week.

First is there is a knocking coming from the gear box is this normal?? I'll try and add a link to a video.

Next up is can any one tell me what the oil gage is?? I believe it's oil pressure just want to double check. Also what's the red flashing light on the temp gauge??

Lastly can anyone tell me how I get the LPG to work?? There are no light that come on the little box no matter what position the switch is in except a very quick red led that flashes once quickly. Never had LPG before so a complete noob to it.









Edited by hooliganATV - 25 Dec 17 at 13:47
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hooliganATV View Drop Down
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote hooliganATV Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 25 Dec 17 at 13:55
Engine knock

bang

Edited by hooliganATV - 25 Dec 17 at 13:57
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Buss Marius View Drop Down
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote Buss Marius Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 25 Dec 17 at 14:09
Congratulations and welcome to the worlds only open, and active non-german LT forum.

The small red lamp is probably to low on coolant liquide. It also flashes if it is to hot. You have to open under the middle front seat (if you have one)to get to it. it is about 1 liter from top Down to where the lamp starts to flash. The hole systeme takes about 13,5 liter
Yes i think it is the oil gauge, if it says 0 when the engine is of, i think it is.. What the correct oil pressure is i don't know

I think there are a few other on this forum that also run on LPGso they probably are able to give you some help.

PS what about a pickture of the hole car, and do you have a LT 35E or LT 35Z?
87 Karmann LT L 2,4D. 89 T3 Syncro Reimo 1,9TD. 2000 T4 Caravelle TDI
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hooliganATV View Drop Down
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote hooliganATV Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 25 Dec 17 at 15:40
It's the E.

That's so much for the info I'll get the coolant toped up before we set off tonight.

And I completely forgot about a complete picture so here's a few




And some of the inside











Made a few upgrade, covered the tables and sorted out the centre tray more to come
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote hooliganATV Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 26 Dec 17 at 01:02
So just finished it first 240mile in the van.

There has to be an issue with the fuel. Not sure if it's a leak or dodgy fuel gauge.

Filled up with £27 so say 20ltr. That filled (but only showed 3/4 on the gauge) it 3 clicks, drove 100 miles to reading services it was on 1/4 (line up from the red) of a tank. Filled up 40ltr again showed 3/4 smelt fuel but think it was spilled in fuel station. Drove the 120 miles to Colchester back on 1/4 seems to drop fast. I'm used to bad fuel my shogun only does 15mpg but this seem steep.

It has had a new fuel tank recently so possible that there is a loose pipe but more likely I think the sender/ gauge is caput

Any thoughts?? Need to get some LPG cause I think it won't work because there is no fuel in it
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (1) Thanks(1)   Quote nooberdoober Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 26 Dec 17 at 23:39
yeah bung 10 quids worth of gas in, then when it's ticking over on petrol, switch to gas. if you've got a three stage switch, then go from the petrol setting(right) to the middle setting which will allow the remaining petrol to drain from the carb, as you hear the engine just begin to murmur discontent from fuel starvation, switch it all the way to the gas setting(left) and it should start to feed gas to your intake and the engine will begin to pick up. 

You should also hear some solenoid switches cutting fuel to your carb, severing signal to your fuel pump and turning on the flow of gas with the engine running as you manipulate the switch. Listen for the clicking at each stage of the process so you know it's doing what its supposed to. You won't be able (or rather you shouldn't be able ) to switch between the gas and the petrol settings while the engine is not running. Safety setting. The switch looks for a pulse from the distributor to judge whether the engine is running and should not allow you to switch it unless it's getting the run signal.
I got me a 2.4 straight Six......and it's a soundin JUICY!

1984 LT40 2.4 petrol Coachbuilt Autotrail Motorhome
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote hooliganATV Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 27 Dec 17 at 03:48
Originally posted by nooberdoober nooberdoober wrote:

yeah bung 10 quids worth of gas in, then when it's ticking over on petrol, switch to gas. if you've got a three stage switch, then go from the petrol setting(right) to the middle setting which will allow the remaining petrol to drain from the carb, as you hear the engine just begin to murmur discontent from fuel starvation, switch it all the way to the gas setting(left) and it should start to feed gas to your intake and the engine will begin to pick up. 

You should also hear some solenoid switches cutting fuel to your carb, severing signal to your fuel pump and turning on the flow of gas with the engine running as you manipulate the switch. Listen for the clicking at each stage of the process so you know it's doing what its supposed to. You won't be able (or rather you shouldn't be able ) to switch between the gas and the petrol settings while the engine is not running. Safety setting. The switch looks for a pulse from the distributor to judge whether the engine is running and should not allow you to switch it unless it's getting the run signal.

looks like it isn't working so ill give a local place a call get them to go through it and see whats whats. 

did the maths and it seems the old bus is running about 11-12 MPG, 420+ miles and £170 hopefully the LPG is an easy fix.

also my list of other jobs got bigger but after our first night we're sold its awesome.
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (1) Thanks(1)   Quote LTCamper89 Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 27 Dec 17 at 17:10
Welcome🍻
There is a Haynes manual which covers petrol variants, in the Tech section.
Nice van.
1989 LT28 2.4D    Saviour of 6Music, well one of them. Now playing http://www.bbc.co.uk/radio/player/bbc_6music

VW LT Camper not Cramper

....at least the roof is not rusting away....
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote hooliganATV Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 27 Dec 17 at 21:34
thanks mate that will help loads

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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (1) Thanks(1)   Quote Buss Marius Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 28 Dec 17 at 10:32
Nice looking camper. And you have the AEZ Vantage alu Wheels, my favorite LT Wheel (no i don't have that type on mine)
87 Karmann LT L 2,4D. 89 T3 Syncro Reimo 1,9TD. 2000 T4 Caravelle TDI
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote hooliganATV Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 28 Dec 17 at 23:20
Originally posted by Buss Marius Buss Marius wrote:

Nice looking camper. And you have the AEZ Vantage alu Wheels, my favorite LT Wheel (no i don't have that type on mine)

good to know, they need a refurb too but i like them another job for the list. 

good news it went through the garage with a clean bill of health, possible job for the future is the gear lever bushings and possible thrust bearing but they said they not overly concerned about either so thrust bearing can wait till clutch needs doing and gear linkage when i get one in. 

next job externally is the LPG because it isn't getting any power apparently.  internally i have 4 boxes of stuff to either fit, change or find a home for hahaha 
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote hooliganATV Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 29 Dec 17 at 14:47
And that was an easy fix on the LPG. Always worth checking stuff out.



The culprit



Next job

Edited by hooliganATV - 29 Dec 17 at 14:51
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (1) Thanks(1)   Quote AndyT Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 29 Dec 17 at 15:49
Welcome to the forum mate, I'll move this topic to the Tech Section in a few days time.
Looks a nice LT you have bought, manuals including Haynes can be downloaded free from the link in the Tech Section. 2.4 engine is covered in the supplementary section of the Haynes.

P.S. Replace the rubber fuel lines in the petrol fuel system, they deteriorate with and it only costs a tenner.


Edited by AndyT - 29 Dec 17 at 15:51
LT28 1979 2.0 Pampas Nevada Camper LPG 93K, 1980 T3 Aircooled Camper, 98K
1994 RRC 3.9 LPG 120k , 1997 Disco V8i 158k miles

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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote hooliganATV Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 29 Dec 17 at 23:52
would you happen to know the ID and how much you need to do it all??? ill get them checked out and replaced maybe when they swapped the tank out they did that too (here's hoping).

started on the stereo tonight, over the passed 27yrs it looks like many people have cut a bit, added a bit, cut some more so ill tidy that up and solder in a new modern block so it's an easy swap next time. more Pic to follow. 

also sorry for posting in the wrong section i suppose it was an intro and now turned into a build thread ConfusedConfused
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote nooberdoober Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 30 Dec 17 at 01:00
What was the culprit on the lpg switch? that image is not showing up for some reason.
I got me a 2.4 straight Six......and it's a soundin JUICY!

1984 LT40 2.4 petrol Coachbuilt Autotrail Motorhome
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (1) Thanks(1)   Quote AndyT Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 30 Dec 17 at 11:19
You won't need much pipe as it's steel front to back with rubber at each end, maybe 3m max but you will have to check. Mine is a 4 pot and much older.
Can't remember the ID, just disconnect and stick a drill bit in the end.
LT28 1979 2.0 Pampas Nevada Camper LPG 93K, 1980 T3 Aircooled Camper, 98K
1994 RRC 3.9 LPG 120k , 1997 Disco V8i 158k miles

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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote hooliganATV Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 30 Dec 17 at 11:55
Will do

The culprit was a very old 5amp fuse all corroded and holding on by a thread.

Ok so new head unit is getting in stalled and I'll be clearing all the old wiring out and replacing with a new modern connection box all soldered not spade connected but I have a question.

The head unit powers off at hight volume. After some research I have found out it could be the speakers are too powerful for the head unit. Head unit is 55w per 4 channels and the speakers are 60 watts each. Any idea if this is correct or I need to look for another fault some where??

This is not my strong point.
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote hooliganATV Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 30 Dec 17 at 20:07
another job done, head unit installed with 4 new speakers all working great and now hands free. fitted a modern connection block all soldered in and removed about 5m of cramp wiring.  

but like everything one job finds 3 more. loads of random wires going nowhere under the dash, this can be a good thing so i'll go through them tomorrow if they have no purpose out they will come. 

also discovered a reversing camera on the rear bumper, but no idea where it goes or to what as there is no screen fitted so ill chase that as i was planning on fitting one. 

need to fix the back door. it was working fine but doesn't seem to want to open now.

and there is a bit of damp under the front mats so ill take them up get them dried out and give the foot wells a good coat of hammerite. 

quite enjoying this, make a change from 4x4 and motorbikes. 
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote nooberdoober Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 31 Dec 17 at 00:13
i might be wrong but the damp under the front matts probably wont go away with a coat of hammerite...... have a quick look at indicator housing and windscreen seal. Perhaps also radio arial. Hopefully its not damp on the fuse box side.

The problem happens on mine too and i've yet to put an end to it. The floor panels around the accelerator and steering column have got some pretty advanced rust on mine and it's made harder to sort out because of the resin stuff they plastered over the metal panels to reduce noise i suppose. Once the rust gets under there......more work......
I got me a 2.4 straight Six......and it's a soundin JUICY!

1984 LT40 2.4 petrol Coachbuilt Autotrail Motorhome
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote hooliganATV Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 31 Dec 17 at 17:01
Yeh I ment the hammerite may slow the rust down not fix the damp, that's a job to get stuck into when the weather's better.

Today I got a bit more wiring cleared out from under the dashboard. Old.joints just left in place so it's looking alot.less cluttered under there but still more to do as I find what's not being used anymore.

I was trying to trace where these switches go because they aren't operating the standard stuff anymore from what I can tell.



The bottom red one isn't connected to anything. The orange taped one I have no idea and the other orange I traced back to this but also feeds something else but it's too we to climb under the bus today.



Em what could possibly be needing a bungee cord in front of the engine????



Oh obviously an electric fan why wouldn't you????



I see if it needs it and if it dose I'll make some proper brackets to hold it in place.

The pile of stuff removed or replaced so far



And the cab looking a bit clearer



Two big things coming up. New paint job and booking in to a proper camp van specialist to make sure it's all working as is and maybe upgrade some of the electrics
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