LT Horn Circuit Problem & Solution

I have started this Post from another post with gog as I thought that it may be of interest to some of you Guy's

The horn is a normal problem as there is no relay interface ( or Free Wheeling Diode protection) with the normal push contact on the steering wheel. Normal use with the standard - and very tinny - horn will burn the contacts over time. Owners who want a "more suitable and manly" horn tend to just wire the new horn/twintones to the existing horn supply which burns the contacts very quickly. The bigger the sound the bigger the current draw and as the horn is a solenoid ( coil ) it is inductive and not resistive. Inductive circuits have their own particular problems with switching circuits as as the switch is released the current wants to continue flowing so jumps the air gap causing sparking = Damage done.

If you want to make your horn circuit more reliable then pull the Push-Switch apart and clean the contacts then install a relay on the switched output but pick up a fused supply from Accessories to flow through the relay contacts which then supplies your horn/horns = Reliable horn circuit.

Edited by TwoSheds - 01 Aug 10 at 07:49

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TwoSheds Members Profile Send Private Message Find Members Posts Add to Buddy List Groupie Joined: 02 Oct 09 Location: Manchester Online Status: Offline Posts: 116	Post Options Post Reply Quote TwoSheds Report Post Quote Reply Topic: LT Horn Circuit Problem & Solution Posted: 01 Aug 10 at 07:47
	I have started this Post from another post with gog as I thought that it may be of interest to some of you Guy's The horn is a normal problem as there is no relay interface ( or Free Wheeling Diode protection) with the normal push contact on the steering wheel. Normal use with the standard - and very tinny - horn will burn the contacts over time. Owners who want a "more suitable and manly" horn tend to just wire the new horn/twintones to the existing horn supply which burns the contacts very quickly. The bigger the sound the bigger the current draw and as the horn is a solenoid ( coil ) it is inductive and not resistive. Inductive circuits have their own particular problems with switching circuits as as the switch is released the current wants to continue flowing so jumps the air gap causing sparking = Damage done. If you want to make your horn circuit more reliable then pull the Push-Switch apart and clean the contacts then install a relay on the switched output but pick up a fused supply from Accessories to flow through the relay contacts which then supplies your horn/horns = Reliable horn circuit. Edited by TwoSheds - 01 Aug 10 at 07:49

GT500 Members Profile Send Private Message Find Members Posts Visit Members Homepage Add to Buddy List Groupie Joined: 02 Jul 09 Location: leeds Online Status: Offline Posts: 70	Post Options Post Reply Quote GT500 Report Post Quote Reply Posted: 02 Aug 10 at 08:38
	Thanks for that!
	Rob...Do I have the lowest milage LT? 25K!