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JX Head gasket replacement

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Zeb View Drop Down
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote Zeb Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Topic: JX Head gasket replacement
    Posted: 03 Nov 12 at 00:14
Hi all, any tips on changing a JX head gasket?

No running faults but almost sure I have a coolant leak at the joint. According to the van history it has done about 60k miles since being replaced so I am hoping there are no bigger problems hiding in there.

What else should be done if you are taking the head off?

Pressure check
Decoke piston tops and disassemble head to clean properly
Change Valve stem guides and seals
OHC check
Measure piston protrusion for new gasket

Or is that OTT

Clean what you can with the head assembled, make sure mating faces and stud holes are clean and the head has no visible cracks or distortion? Replace using the same thickness gasket, assemble dry with lightly oiled new bolts. Torque per the manual. New oil and coolant, replace plugs and belts if needed.

Turbo to exhaust manifold has a thin alloy gasket in there should I refit one or assemble without it?

I have found various bits of info but no comprehensive guide as such. If I am unlucky and find the head is knackered I will be forced to weigh up searching for an aaz.

Grateful for any advice as I only want to do it once if possible.

Cheers

Zeb
1990 Westfalia California 1.6TD
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rowlesy View Drop Down
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote rowlesy Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 03 Nov 12 at 08:18
tbh until you get the head off you won't know what needs doing! if it runs ok but just has a coolant loss problem it maybe that the antifreeze is cheap/weak mix and rotted out the gaskets over time.
 
before you go mad with that though make sure everything else is water tight.last thing you wana do is swap out headsets and still have a leak afterwards!
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Zeb View Drop Down
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote Zeb Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 03 Nov 12 at 11:18
Hi rowlesy, when i picked the van up 5 years ago it had a mixture of coolant types in it and had a small leak at the flange on the side of the head, i flushed and replaced with the red stuff but noticed the head gasket was crumbling away under the leak but it is still holding up in that position. Whilst doing some other routine maintenance I noticed a leak from the coolant flange at the front of the engine so I replaced that. The coolant loss is negligible but there are coolant stains at the joint on the back right hand side of the head joint and a few drops in the tinware below. It can't run to this position as there is an oil way it would have to run up and over first. I totally agree with needing to be sure before doing it for nothing but at the same time need it to be reliable for long family holiday road trips. So at the moment I am doing lots of staring and chin scratching waiting for it to leak in front of me!

Need to go and give it a good few hill runs and have another look.

Cheers

Zeb
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote max and caddy Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 03 Nov 12 at 11:31
I have a used JX head...condition is unknown at present but if you need one I will get it off and examine it if you like?
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote Zeb Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 03 Nov 12 at 12:03
Thanks I'll give you a shout if I need to.
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Zeb View Drop Down
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote Zeb Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 05 Nov 12 at 00:46
Hi, I took the van for a drive and included a mother of a hill to make sure it was hot, checked the joint and could see the area where the gasket was starting to fail. Took the head off this morning and cleaned it up a little to see what condition it is in.

Please take a look at the photos and let me know what you think, this is the only one I have removed so am not sure what to think. I read the cracks are OK in-between the valves but to what extent? The valve seats still look true and intact but I have not removed them.

There are two cracks between the valve and the injector-glowplug insert is this normal? You can also see hairline cracks in the insert itself. The block seems pretty true except the area in-between the valves which is a little high.

I have included a picture of the gasket which is a "1 hole" thickness gasket, is it the same as a "1 notch" or are there differences? Are there two different head types available?

The other gasket was in-between the turbo and the manifold, should I try to source a replacement or assemble it dry and without a gasket as suggested?

Thanks for any advice or bargain offers of alternative head/engines in the BS20 area should I need them!

Cheers

Zeb

























Edited by Zeb - 05 Nov 12 at 00:59
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote ob1 Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 05 Nov 12 at 07:37
I am no expert at all! but I'd be looking for a recon head if my Cylinder head looked like that, hair line cracks are apparently ok but yours has cracked a lot! 
I guess the crack are all over the pistons and do not actually effect the actual sealing of anything, so I guess sure you could put it all back together with a new HG and it would work fine but seeing as your going to the hassle I'd personally find a recon one? I suppose you'll get that on skimmed anyway so why not get it pressure tested and least then you'll know if it's reusable or not? Like I say I have limited experience so I might be talking crap but to me that head looks tired! 

AFAIK you do not need that turbo to manifold gasket, just make sure the two faces are clean and true. 


Edited by ob1 - 05 Nov 12 at 07:44
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote Tee3 Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 05 Nov 12 at 08:16
I wouldnt put that back on with cracks around and on the pre combustion chambers.


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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote rowlesy Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 05 Nov 12 at 09:38
any marks on the gasket around the top of the cylinders? if not the water is escaping through those cracks and burning off!
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote champy2k Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 05 Nov 12 at 10:45
speaking with my engine recondition head on , that head is scrap, 
try bridge cylinder heads, 
like Thatcher you'll either love me or hate me
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote Zeb Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 05 Nov 12 at 11:32
There were two suspect areas visible on the gasket where water had leaked into one of the bolt holes and another area where it was leaking externally. When removing the head bolts they were all well oiled except the one that the water had escaped to which was dry with surface rust. On cold days I get a plume of white smoke on start up so confirm water is getting in there somewhere. If I park in the garage and the temperature is slightly higher the smoke is reduced.

I tend to agree with the comments posted, having taken a full day to strip it down carefully it seems a shame to put this back on as the life may be limited. I was worried about the cracks to the pre combustion chamber (Thanks for the correct term T3) as this are is "knife edged" I could see a piece falling off eventually and wrecking the pistons.

As the head is off is there a guide on what scoring in the bores is acceptable? Top of the pistons are unmarked and lightly sooted so look fine. I can see some scoring of the bores but it doesn't look too bad.

Anyone know of a complete cylinder head in good condition for sensible money? There is one on here for about 330 quid, very low miles on it but still seems a little high for a second hand head.

Can anyone advise what I should expect to pay for a reconditioned head? What did you buy from "Bridge" champy2k?

500 quid for a new one puts me in the mood for an alternative engine. I would prefer to repair this engine as I have the history and know the condition of it generally, if I buy an AAZ it may turn out to be worse!

Thanks again for your comments


Edited by Zeb - 05 Nov 12 at 11:34
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote champy2k Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 05 Nov 12 at 17:41
at present bridge cylinder heads ( http://cylinderheads.co.uk ) have been about the best on price for new and recon heads, part of my buisness is engineering inc head recon work and i have recently been putting customers straight in touch with them, for complete head exchange as i couldnt touch them on price
like Thatcher you'll either love me or hate me
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote max and caddy Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 05 Nov 12 at 21:00
The cracks to the pre chamber are not really acceptable...but I have run worse! Had a JR engine with an actual step in the face of the head and it used no coolant! But, as the engine is working hard back there I would not be putting that back on a t3 if it was mine and not just a smoker...the valve seat cracks are normal and look within spec.the pre chambers often have the odd hairline crack...never seem to fail in use despite this.


Ahead can't be reconditioned if its cracked...and the AMC ones are not as good as the genuine ones...ok...but not the real deal.

It's either new, genuine, or good used I would say.

Like you say, AAZ are a minefield...and becoming harder to find in decent shape.

Scoring on the bores...if you can feel it with your finger or flick your nail on it it's deep, if it just visible then it's fine, some lines are always present.

Valve guide wear is another thing to consider but easier to remedy.
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote max and caddy Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 05 Nov 12 at 21:04
White smoke on start up...smoke is smoke so diesel or oil., steam could be coolant but not normally instant as it has to "dry" to produce steam...smoke could be turbo or injectors or valve guides or the breather system...but I have yet to see a JX cold start without a puff of something and at least some misfires!
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote max and caddy Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 05 Nov 12 at 21:06
Good pics by the way! Shows a multitude of potential failures!
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote Zeb Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 11 Nov 12 at 15:22
Head and gasket type advice needed please.

The gasket was the 1 hole type not the notch type indicating a hydraulic head, the head itself is the regular bucket and shim set up but has an extra lump where the additional oil way would go but it looks to be undrilled? Looking at the block there is no corresponding lump or oil way so I assume it is the non hydraulic type but they use a standard casting for both heads. So was the wrong gasket fitted as it blocks off one of the waterways?

Do I need a mechanical head and a 1 notch gasket?

Any advice appreciated so I can at least look for the correct replacement parts!

Cheers

Zeb
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