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Just Bought A Syncro. Did I Buy a Lemon?

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madra View Drop Down
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote madra Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Topic: Just Bought A Syncro. Did I Buy a Lemon?
    Posted: 15 Dec 17 at 18:48
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Edited by madra - 25 Mar 18 at 21:03
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madra View Drop Down
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote madra Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 15 Dec 17 at 21:25
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Edited by madra - 25 Mar 18 at 21:03
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote Rollercoaster Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 15 Dec 17 at 21:26
Before worrying about the gears inside,
try adjusting the gear linkage length in the long rod,
also check all the external selection parts,
and how that secures to the gearbox..

VC's can vary quite a bit, dont write that off quite yet either.
I prefer a "sporty" or "tight" VC myself for off road use.
Have a word with Holman Engeneering,

Now dont fret,
its a syncro, its yours now, lavish it with love and money.
If I was you, being localish to Brickwerks,
book it in for a good inspection.
They take a bit of looking after, but its worth it.
Both for the drive, and for the appreciating value.
Not a bad choice I would think.
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madra View Drop Down
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote madra Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 15 Dec 17 at 21:44
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Edited by madra - 25 Mar 18 at 21:03
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote Rollercoaster Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 15 Dec 17 at 22:17
No rust!
You have struck lucky.
Mine T3 has a new VC from Holmans and it scrubs a little on tight turns.
My last T3 syncro was the same.

Waxoil, AnkorWax or choose your poison but protect your asset now,
and do whatever it takes to keep it running sweet.
RHD Syncro panel van, no rust, well done!

Even if you have to get a new gearbox, still good.
If its what you wanted for a long time, fantastic, joy!

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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote PaulSA Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 17 Dec 17 at 18:43
Just Hang in there.

I echo the sentiments.

if you been looking for some time---and finally found one without rust,
you're already winning.

I bought mine,
drove it almost home,(400km)
---broke down.

Rarely saw it for 18 months---broke down every time I drove it,
having just had it repaired each time.

Anyway finally went on holiday with it--4x4 Transkei trip.
What a vehicle!

Instantly forgave all the previous crap.

Point of story = it grows on you,
and once it's got it's hooks in = very hard to leave.

They are amazing vehicles!!
 
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote madra Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 17 Dec 17 at 19:10
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Edited by madra - 25 Mar 18 at 21:03
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote Rollercoaster Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 17 Dec 17 at 20:06
I am no expert, and rather get someone else to work on the van,
but when you work out which way the long front to back rod needs to go,
when its pushing the rear gear selector into fourth,
adjust it in the middle by a mm or two, mark it before you loosen it.
Its hard to notice the adjustment on a syncro as its hidden inside the tube.
My theory is if its badly adjusted it may be "pulling" it out of gear.
Worked for me before, though another theory of mine is..
if its been driven for a while like that, it damages things inside..
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote clift_d Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 18 Dec 17 at 10:19
With a Syncro you need to have a budget anyway for a gearbox overhaul, so I reckon you should use the grand you knocked off the price to get your gearbox and front diff overhauled by Aidan Talbot, and then look at getting your VC sorted by Holman Engineering. It's best to get your gearbox done before anything fails as that can lead to extra expense.
1988 1.6TD Westfalia Club Joker syncro
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madra View Drop Down
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote madra Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 18 Dec 17 at 19:22
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Edited by madra - 25 Mar 18 at 21:03
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote clift_d Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 18 Dec 17 at 20:17
Originally posted by madra madra wrote:

... why do you recommend getting the front diff looked at too?


Check wear on all the bearings; check for damage to the crown and pinion; overhaul diff-lock mechanism if present or fit diff-lock if not; change out VC; check/replace speedo gear. Just seems sensible to get it done at the same time as the gearbox.
1988 1.6TD Westfalia Club Joker syncro
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote Rollercoaster Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 18 Dec 17 at 22:28
[QUOTE=madra]Another pissing wet miserable dark day here. So, still not had a chance to get out and crawl about under the new toy, poking at the gear linkages. That'll larn me for buying a new motor in the middle of winter!/QUOTE] 

Know that feeling, but there is at least enough room under there!


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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote Garyd Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 27 Dec 17 at 12:05
Given the cost & complexity of getting involved with gearbox internals, I would heartily support the suggestion of dealing with the gearshift linkage first. Yes, it is complex and lots of little bits but they are generally accessible and easily done on the drive (subject to weather, of course!) Even if you do end up having to do work inside the gearbox you will still want/benefit from a nice slick gear change.
 
 
If you're not familiar with the linkage then it would be time well spent to research this while the weather is bad. There are lots of places for wear to take place and every little bit will add to the slop and imprecision. Look at Just Kampers/T3 parts/gear linkage for a drawing of the bits.
 
*There are 'nylon' tabs on the ears at the bottom of the gearstick which help create the left to right positioning of the gate. (Brickwerks part only I believe.)
 
*There are two(?) nylon balls in spherical housings which allow the front to rear shaft to rotate and slide whilst also self-aligning. Wear in these is often responsible for allowing the gearstick to move close to the seat.
*There is a nylon cross in the centre UJ linkage between the front & rear sections of the shaft
 
*There is a nylon ball in the alloy cup at the rear end of the shaft to connect it to the gearbox cross-shaft. Wear here will increase stick movement in both directions.
 
*There are also a number of places for adjustment, especially next to the central UJ for relative rotation & length of the two shaft sections.
 
With regard to the gearbox itself (and the front diff) it is always good practice to do oil changes on a new-to-you vehicle. This will allow you to check what's stuck to the magnets in the drain plugs - take photos because they may enable gearbox guru Aidan to help analyse any internal problems. EP75-90 oil in full or semi-synthetic GL4 is generally recommended.
 
I hope the weather improves soon (for you & me both) and good luck with your van.


Edited by Garyd - 27 Dec 17 at 12:08
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madra View Drop Down
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote madra Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 31 Dec 17 at 12:49
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Edited by madra - 25 Mar 18 at 21:04
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