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How to remove Intake Manifold 2.5 174 AXE

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Yardie
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    Posted: 18 Dec 12 at 05:46
132K km
A few months back I removed the EGR valve assembly and partially cleaned into the intake manifold below, as far as i dare reach with an old hacksaw blade.Lots of gunk.Blocked off the EGR on reassembly.


Thinking worse was further down, i have just recently removed the intake manifold to find it relatively clean.There was some sludge but not a lot.Most seemed to sit approx 50-100 mm back from the intake ports on the manifold, but still not a lot.

Note:
This guide is just that, a guide.
I may have missed something crucial, so go easy if something does not move as you want.

 
Tools IIRC
small socket set(1/4)",10mm socket, 13mm socket (if possible) plus 2" extension,adaptors. Found it easier to access the manifold bolts with this.
torx T.25,T30
5mm allen key for EGR
Large socket handle(1/2") plus 2" and 4" extension,and 13mm socket for the lock carrier bolts
10mm ring/open end spanner
(13mm ring-spanner)
phillips screwdriver
various screwdrivers
long nose pliers
multigrips
swear jar

The bonnet lock carrier needs to be put in the service position, ie moved 10-15cm forward, to enable removal of the intake manifold.
This requires removal of the front bumper.

Front bumper removal
-----------------------------
http://www.brick-yard.co.uk/forum/how-to-fit-caravelle-lights_topic18795.html

I will add,
1.Remove the bumper strip starting from the outside ends, using a plastic(preferably) wedge. I used a small screwdriver but it left some marks.
The bumper strip, showing some of the mounting lugs where you need to press


here's the necessary diagram




2.You don't need to remove the fog light inserts.
3.There are 4x T.25 bolts at the top underneath the centre plastic cover(no.2 in his guide), 3 are inside the lock carrier frame, 1 is outside.Don't drop the internal ones or better yet use a magnetic torx.
4.The 2x10mm hex nuts each side (with nyloc nuts no less, no.3 in his guide), are a PITA to access.They are up inside the wing panel.My socket would not fit as the bolt threads are extra long.Ended up using an open ender which took forever, so added spacers on reassembly.
5. The bolts for the wheel arch liner no.4 T.25 need to remove to access no.5 T.25(faces upwards) and no.6 T.25 .I also removed a T.25 at the top of the wheel arch to make things easier
6.There is a semi hidden plastic bracket(below) with a T30 bolt(no.8), each side, just to the inside of each bumper strip.I found access easier by removing the centre strip with a wedge.


 
7.There are 4 thin washers where the T30's go through plastic(no.8).Most stay in the bumper.Remove them or make sure they are secure.I lost one before i realised.
8.Remove 2x electrical connectors at the lower RHS bumper area.
9.To remove the bumper completely, mark the LHS headlight bolt and bracket postions.Make a note of the cable routing. Remove the headlight electrical cable at the headlight. Remove the LHS headlight temporarily to allow access out for the cable.


Remove the bumper.


Stare in wonder at all that is Volkswagen Smile
There is one more PITA to go.
 

Moving the lock carrier forward
----------------------------------------
I made my own guide pins. M8x1.25 with 200mm long approx12-12.5mm diam rod.
You can buy them from VW if you want


Remove the coolant reservoir to one side. I also removed the PS fluid reservoir and the washer bottle refill hose, but it doesn't appear to be necessary
Remove the pipework at the intercooler, as a minimum. I removed all of it.Plug openings to engine with clean rags.
You can remove the intercooler, 2xT30, if desired.
Remove the EGR valve from the manifold.
Unbolt the 2x13mm hex close together in each lower front corner.Fit your 4x guide pins.
Now unbolt the other 13mm hex further inwards closeby, on each side
Unbolt the 2x10mm hex bolts on each side, bolting the upper frame of the lock carrier to the side wings.
Unbolt the single 13mm hex midway down each side.Mark the bolt positions if desired.You can leave the 13mm hexes facing forward nearby.
Ease the lock carrier forward on your guide pins, watch for anything hindering movement.
The portion below the headlights may need a little encouragement to break free, a gentle prod with a screwdriver or similar may be necessary.
The front airbox join needs to disengage,but should go by itself.
The limit to movement is the coolant hoses on the radiator.Max is about 15cm.
I used blocks of wood about 10cm,at each top corner to hold the carrier forward as you lean over the top to work on the manifold

Intake Manifold removal
-------------------------------
There is electrical cabling below the manifold that needs to be removed first, that has a PITA attachment system.There are 4 mounting points.This is the view from the top looking down(manifold out).


The top mount(1) on the vehicle, is a pin with two locking tabs either side.Spread the locking tabs and lever the pin out.The pin is only a friction fit to the manifold, so will also come out by just levering on the plastic, which is what i did.YMMV
The other 3 mounts are different and lock solidly to the manifold.The centre pin must be pulled out to release the locking tabs underneath


 
Do the top mount(2) with a small screwdriver or pliers.It must be removed.Pull on the cable tracking to lift the tabs(1 and 2) out of the manifold.The plastic will take a fair amount of distortion.You may need to release cable holders further along, so you don't damage wiring
I tried to remove the pins on the lower mounts, but found it hard as access is almost impossible.Almost considered removing radiators and things.
If you look at the lower plastic brackets from underneath, you will see that they are open on the ends.If you heave upwards on the cable tracking and the lower brackets, with the top mounts out of their holes,eventually the cabling bundle will pop free.Remove the lower pins later,once the manifold is out.
Now you have relatively free access to the upper and lower manifold bolts.
Remove the 10mm hex holding the manifold to the top of the engine
There are 9x13mm hex bolts holding the manifold to the block. 5 upper, 4 lower.They will not fall out of the manifold once undone, without some pressure.
The bolts were not overly tight. No dirt will enter the intakes on the engine, as they face downwards.

Cleaning
-----------
I soaked the manifold in petrol, scraped inside with a hacksaw blade and LPG flamed it afterwards.Some more carbon came out.
Remove the rubber grommet where the 10mm hex was, if you're barbequeing a manifold.

Clean

 
I also cleaned some sludge from the intakes on the engine

Reinstallation
-----------------
The manifold gaskets should be reusable if they're not damaged
There wasn't any sealant on the rubber/metal manifold gaskets that i could see, so i just put a small amount of grease on them on reassembly
I found it easier to reinstall all the manifold bolts(20Nm) from the top.

Line up the airbox front hose as you push the carrier inwards
Fit any 13mm first to hold the carrier in, then do another side.


Edited by Rebuild - 17 Jul 17 at 14:35
Steve
2004 T5 2.5 TDI
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Vanorak
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote Alonline Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 18 Dec 12 at 12:40
Looks very smart.
 
I haven't done but a how to takes ages.
 
Thanks for posting.
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote T5 TDI Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 19 Dec 12 at 15:17
Nice write up Rebuild.  Clap  Have you noticed any difference in performance or fuel consumption?  I'm on 78,000 now so I'll clean out mine soon.  The EGR valve was changed under warranty at around 30,000 so maybe it's ok for a bit longer.
2004 2.5 174
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote Rebuild Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 19 Dec 12 at 23:39
I think i got more benefit from cleaning/blocking the EGR and partially cleaning the intake pipe back in April, where the sludge was 5mm thick.And even then i think it was blocking the EGR that did any improvement. Maybe slightly more low/mid pull. 
 
Hard to tell any difference from the manifold removal and cleaning just now, there just wasn't much sludge further down, maybe 1-2mm thick in places.
 
I will also add that all my intake plumbing has a small film of oil, with some minor puddling at junctions.This may be adding to the sludge buildup.
I also removed and cleaned the intercooler.


Edited by Rebuild - 27 Dec 12 at 07:50
Steve
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote CMP260 Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 13 Oct 14 at 16:52
CAN ANYONE Tell me what the lock carrier consists of? Ive removed the steel bar behind the bumper but not moved anything forward yet, did I not need to remove that? Or do I need that in place to hold the 4 guide pins?

was a 2006 130 shuttle
now a 2006 174 multivan
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (1) Thanks(1)   Quote Rebuild Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 14 Oct 14 at 13:30
The lock carrier is the portion that holds the bonnet lock and all it's framework.

Hmm ... it appears Mr Hedgehogs pics in his guide have disappeared
http://www.brick-yard.co.uk/forum/how-to-fit-caravelle-lights_topic18795.html
i have edited into my top post the necessary diagram for bolt removal

You don't want to remove the lower metal bar(the one with the plastic? blocks on it.) in my pic above.
Your guide pins fit through this metal bar, once you remove the bolts in the body/frame behind it.
The metal bar supports everything on those pins

Everything behind the headlights moves forwards, as far as i recall(been a while since i did this).




Edited by Rebuild - 05 Feb 15 at 03:48
Steve
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote CMP260 Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 14 Oct 14 at 13:46
cheers mate, yes -ended putting bumper steel back on... stupid me.
cut two m8 threded rods in half to use as guide pins for the lock carrier. 99p each and works fine.
was a 2006 130 shuttle
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