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Inadequate clutch in T3 1.6 to 1.9 conversion...

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crisply View Drop Down
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    Posted: 09 Aug 17 at 19:15
hello folks,
after totalling my 1.6 engine in a mass coolant mutiny I decided to
upgrade to a 1.9 engine (from a Seat I think).
I read somewhere (AE engine swap thread perhaps) the existing clutch (which was virtually new anyway) would be sufficient but in reality doesn't appear to be - the engine develops revs beyond the acceleration I'm feeling, even at really low speed.
I took it out and cleaned it up thoroughly but no change.
I'm thinking slippage but in testing I found that I could not be sufficiently gentle in increasing power to avoid it which makes me also wonder about proper engagement of clutch in the first place.

Can anyone confirm the possibility that a 1.6 rated clutch might not be adequate for a 1.9 engine?!

if indeed it may not be, will a clutch from a 1.9 VW T3 fit my 1.6 setup?
(original 4 speed gearbox)

thanks all....
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crisply View Drop Down
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote crisply Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 09 Aug 17 at 19:17
forgot to mention it is 1.6D non turbo....
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rowlesy View Drop Down
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote rowlesy Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 09 Aug 17 at 21:06
what have you cleaned it with? and are you sure its fitted correctly?what engine is yours out of? has the gearbox been taken out during engine replacement?
UberFukz broke another!       sucky sucky five dollah!

always out numbered never out gunned!    RWS welding 07846 380 467 (worcs)
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote crisply Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 11 Aug 17 at 10:48
petrol and degreaser!
no, I'm not sure it's fitted correctly!!
the mechanic used the right centering tool to get the clutch on... points for that...
... but he missed the bearing  that goes on the end of crankshaft.
with the slipping I thought it might be that bearing missing so got involved myself
and took the clutch out, cleaned it up and fitted a bearing. no difference.

the engine is from a Seat Inca 1.9.
the gearbox was not removed.
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote rowlesy Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 11 Aug 17 at 21:14
petrol and degreaser to clean it? not recommended i'd of thought? anyway that'll be one reason for slippage. the other id of thought might be that it needs a bleed. ive got an aef in my bus on a standard diesel clutch and im pulling allsorts with it fine. you wana try coke!




Edited by rowlesy - 11 Aug 17 at 21:26
UberFukz broke another!       sucky sucky five dollah!

always out numbered never out gunned!    RWS welding 07846 380 467 (worcs)
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote crisply Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 14 Aug 17 at 10:13
wouldn't a clutch that needed bleeding just result in better/sooner separation of the plate
rather than firmer contact?
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote ob1 Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 14 Aug 17 at 14:11
Bleeding won't help a slipping clutch. Correct. Will make disengagement better quicker actually happen
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote Mr Boo Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 14 Aug 17 at 18:02
  Hi 
 You say the gearbox hasn't been out and the clutch was working ok before the engine change?

 If this is correct then try reverse bleeding the clutch, as someone may have pressed the pedal when the engine was out.

 You'll need to clamp off the clutch flexi pipe open the bleed nipple on the slave cyl and push the clutch arm back with a pry-bar, hold pry-bar steady then lock off bleed nipple, you can do this lay on your back under the van and see what your doing but it's a two handed job. 

  This would be my first thing to do, rather than pulling the engine again..

 When the clutch was changed were all three components changed? 

  Edit..    Ps  Don't forget to check your brake/clutch fluid level when you've finished  Embarrassed 


  


Edited by Mr Boo - 14 Aug 17 at 18:07
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote Timjburrows Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 14 Aug 17 at 19:04
Is the friction plate in the correct way around?
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote rowlesy Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 14 Aug 17 at 21:09
the action of the thrust bearing may not at full travel. as said if the clutch has been pressed the only way to get it back is to bleed it. the lever may be too far out before you refitted engine thus already applying pressure to the plate. im also pretty sure you cant fit friction plates the wrong way round.

UberFukz broke another!       sucky sucky five dollah!

always out numbered never out gunned!    RWS welding 07846 380 467 (worcs)
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote Orance Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 25 Aug 17 at 07:50
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote crisply Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 16 Oct 17 at 09:10
The retard that did the engine swap neglected to transfer the bearing at the end of the gearbox spigot.    I had it put in afterwards but it was too late - after less than a mile of testing beforehand, and with the gearbox out I can see the seal has distorted, leaked oil and ruined the clutch.
And I am just as retarded for employing a back street spanish mechanic ....
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote crisply Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 16 Oct 17 at 09:25
.... under the shaft seal is what looks like a tophat thrust bearing sleeve that is a very loose fit on the shaft. 
perhaps it got that loose from the eccentric motion of the input shaft....
anyone know whether this should also be replaced?
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