How to remove turbo and dpf on 2.5 BNZ 130

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   Right, here goes. 

I got fed up with fumes coming in the cabin the other day and it was whistling, so I tightened it up and caused a horrendous oil leak.

This needed instant immediate attention and heres how I did it, pics provided.

The first two pics are what the engine bay looks like before molestation.....

Remove the air box top and air filter, 10mm bolt holds it in place along with the rubber grommet on the back, tug it hard enough to release it then put your hand down the back and undo the drain pipe clipped into the air box.
Wiggle the whole thing out of the way and place on the side/floor.

Disconnect the turbo pipes by just opening up the clips a touch and pull the pipe out.
Get down deep and dirty on the turbo itself and us a good pair of clip pliers to undo the pipe to the turbo, pull these pipes clear and place them somewhere clean.

It should now look like this.......

It was at this point I disconnected the vaccum pipe from the servo and the tandem pump so It wasnt in the way, just tug them to release them, remember theyre still plastic and they will break if you go in heavy handed. remove and place on the side.

Disconnect the sensors on the bulk head for the dpf, the exhaust temp sender and lambda probe.
Pull them all out of the way so when you remove the dpf they will pull through cleanly.

Reach down by the turbo and fine the dpf retaining ring, use a 5mm hex to undo this from ontop.
This is a crackingly well designed item that will just gently prize off allowing the spring steel edge to allow expansion and easy removal, take the time to clean the thread and oil the pivot.

While you are here reach down and look at the triangular plate with three 10mm triplesquare cap head on. undo these now before sliding under the vehicle.

As a matter of course I clean every bolt on the wire wheel and apply a quick spray of white grease to aid refitting and prevent struggling next time it needs to come off.

Thats it for on top, now jack the bus up at the front and place it on axle stands, I chose to use the end of the subframe as a mounting surface as they're strong and not in the way. Do not use weedy little stands as you're going underneath and dont blame me if you get squashed.

Slide underneath and undo the two 13mm nuts on the exhaust sleeve, now its normal for them to round off, mine did so out came the cut off tool and off it came......

The sleave...

The cut off nuts and bolts.....

Dont worry about this situation, two new nuts and bolts and you're back in business.

The sleave just slides one way then pull the pipe down and pull the sleave off.

Now turn your attention to the 13mm bolts which hold the dpf in place, undo those.
Look a little furthe up the dpf and there are two 17mm bolts, undo these and the dpf is loose and ready to slide out.

Take note of how you remove it as its an arse to refit if you have no idea how it came out.
I wasted half hour till i got it right.
Pull it gently down twisting as needed and it should come out all nice and cleanly like so....
Note all the pipes and sensors fitted, I chose to do it this way as I just couldnt face undoing all the associated pipe work when a little bit of push and shove would negate removal.

These are the sensors and plugs on the end that I disconnected from the bulk head...

At this point I pulled them taught and zip tied them to make installation easier.
It worked.

Now turn your attention to the turbo.
It's held on by two 16mm nuts and a 10mm triplesquare cap headed bolt.
Undo these from underneath, one of them is not easy to get to but stick with it.

Your turbo is now ready for removal. get someone to assist ( to catch the egr bits)
Pull the turbo outwards, grab the egr plates at this point.
Pull the turbo completely and turn it anticlockwise over the engine mount releasing the turbo into space enough for you to remove it out downwards.

Your Turbo should look like this..................

Yes filthy.

Looking up into the void left behind you should see this.......

Now inspect your turbo for end float etc. mine was good as it only ten months old.

I chose to block the holes up and stick it in the parts cleaner and clean it very carefully.
Looking at the mounting faceof the turbo it became obvious where the leak was coming from.

Before....

After....

Turbo after cleaning....

The new one (£1.07 + vat) 

 The old gasket was shot, it was flat as a pancake................

Place the new gasket on the turbo, there are tang on it allowing you to locate it snug and tight.
Now spin it over and place the EGR gasket on. (£2.24+vat) there are also loacting tabs again....

Do not fit your turbo just yet as theres the egr 

you MUST fit a new ring gasket (£7.73+vat)

I cleaned the triangular flange, the middle spacer and the bolts on the wire wheel.

I lined them up accordingly ( trust me its easier) Zip tied two of the corners

Put it up in place on the manifold...

NOW LOOK AT THIS PIC CAREFULLY.

The triangular plate, gasket and flange are held up by a small piece of GREEN string tied up trough the hole to the bonnet catch. 
Try it, you'll thank me after you've drop it on the floor a dozen times.

Now roll your turbo in clockwise and straight onto the studs.
pop the 16mm nuts on, just nip them up finger tight, put the 10mm triplequare caphead bolt in the top and pull them all up nice and tight evenly.

It's all easy from here, cut the zip ties and string, pop the bolts in the egr from the top, pull them up tight later.

Throw the dpf in up the tunnel pop the 13mms in, locate the dpf into the turbo and pop the ring on just pull it up gently and fit the rest of dpf bolts now its in its correct resting place, fit the exhaust sleeve. drop it on the floor and put all the stuff on that you had previously taken off tightening up the egr plate last.

I did this start to finish in about four hours, that included nipping up to tps and tea/fag breaks.

It started on the button and didnt whistle or leak.

Proper chuffed,

Your thoughts or questions.

Edited by guy - 04 Jan 12 at 20:36