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How to remove turbo and dpf on 2.5 BNZ 130

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    Posted: 04 Jan 12 at 20:11
Right, here goes.
 
I got fed up with fumes coming in the cabin the other day and it was whistling, so I tightened it up and caused a horrendous oil leak.
 
This needed instant immediate attention and heres how I did it, pics provided.
 
The first two pics are what the engine bay looks like before molestation.....
 
 
 
Remove the air box top and air filter, 10mm bolt holds it in place along with the rubber grommet on the back, tug it hard enough to release it then put your hand down the back and undo the drain pipe clipped into the air box.
Wiggle the whole thing out of the way and place on the side/floor.
 
Disconnect the turbo pipes by just opening up the clips a touch and pull the pipe out.
Get down deep and dirty on the turbo itself and us a good pair of clip pliers to undo the pipe to the turbo, pull these pipes clear and place them somewhere clean.
 
It should now look like this.......
 
 
It was at this point I disconnected the vaccum pipe from the servo and the tandem pump so It wasnt in the way, just tug them to release them, remember theyre still plastic and they will break if you go in heavy handed. remove and place on the side.
 
Disconnect the sensors on the bulk head for the dpf, the exhaust temp sender and lambda probe.
Pull them all out of the way so when you remove the dpf they will pull through cleanly.
 
 
Reach down by the turbo and fine the dpf retaining ring, use a 5mm hex to undo this from ontop.
This is a crackingly well designed item that will just gently prize off allowing the spring steel edge to allow expansion and easy removal, take the time to clean the thread and oil the pivot.
 
 
While you are here reach down and look at the triangular plate with three 10mm triplesquare cap head on. undo these now before sliding under the vehicle.
 
As a matter of course I clean every bolt on the wire wheel and apply a quick spray of white grease to aid refitting and prevent struggling next time it needs to come off.
 
Thats it for on top, now jack the bus up at the front and place it on axle stands, I chose to use the end of the subframe as a mounting surface as they're strong and not in the way. Do not use weedy little stands as you're going underneath and dont blame me if you get squashed.
 
Slide underneath and undo the two 13mm nuts on the exhaust sleeve, now its normal for them to round off, mine did so out came the cut off tool and off it came......
 
The sleave...
 
 
The cut off nuts and bolts.....
 
 
Dont worry about this situation, two new nuts and bolts and you're back in business.
 
The sleave just slides one way then pull the pipe down and pull the sleave off.
 
Now turn your attention to the 13mm bolts which hold the dpf in place, undo those.
Look a little furthe up the dpf and there are two 17mm bolts, undo these and the dpf is loose and ready to slide out.
 
Take note of how you remove it as its an arse to refit if you have no idea how it came out.
I wasted half hour till i got it right.
Pull it gently down twisting as needed and it should come out all nice and cleanly like so....
Note all the pipes and sensors fitted, I chose to do it this way as I just couldnt face undoing all the associated pipe work when a little bit of push and shove would negate removal.
 
 
These are the sensors and plugs on the end that I disconnected from the bulk head...
 
 
At this point I pulled them taught and zip tied them to make installation easier.
It worked.
 
Now turn your attention to the turbo.
It's held on by two 16mm nuts and a 10mm triplesquare cap headed bolt.
Undo these from underneath, one of them is not easy to get to but stick with it.
 
Your turbo is now ready for removal. get someone to assist ( to catch the egr bits)
Pull the turbo outwards, grab the egr plates at this point.
Pull the turbo completely and turn it anticlockwise over the engine mount releasing the turbo into space enough for you to remove it out downwards.
 
Your Turbo should look like this..................
 
 
Yes filthy.
 
Looking up into the void left behind you should see this.......
 
 
 
 
 
Now inspect your turbo for end float etc. mine was good as it only ten months old.
 
I chose to block the holes up and stick it in the parts cleaner and clean it very carefully.
Looking at the mounting faceof the turbo it became obvious where the leak was coming from.
 
Before....
 
After....
 
Turbo after cleaning....
 
 
The new one (£1.07 + vat)
 
 
 The old gasket was shot, it was flat as a pancake................
 
 
 
Place the new gasket on the turbo, there are tang on it allowing you to locate it snug and tight.
Now spin it over and place the EGR gasket on. (£2.24+vat) there are also loacting tabs again....
 
 
 
 
Do not fit your turbo just yet as theres the egr
 
you MUST fit a new ring gasket (£7.73+vat)
 
 
I cleaned the triangular flange, the middle spacer and the bolts on the wire wheel.
 
I lined them up accordingly ( trust me its easier) Zip tied two of the corners
 
 
Put it up in place on the manifold...
 
 
NOW LOOK AT THIS PIC CAREFULLY.
 
The triangular plate, gasket and flange are held up by a small piece of GREEN string tied up trough the hole to the bonnet catch.
Try it, you'll thank me after you've drop it on the floor a dozen times.
 
Now roll your turbo in clockwise and straight onto the studs.
pop the 16mm nuts on, just nip them up finger tight, put the 10mm triplequare caphead bolt in the top and pull them all up nice and tight evenly.
 
It's all easy from here, cut the zip ties and string, pop the bolts in the egr from the top, pull them up tight later.
 
Throw the dpf in up the tunnel pop the 13mms in, locate the dpf into the turbo and pop the ring on just pull it up gently and fit the rest of dpf bolts now its in its correct resting place, fit the exhaust sleeve. drop it on the floor and put all the stuff on that you had previously taken off tightening up the egr plate last.
 
I did this start to finish in about four hours, that included nipping up to tps and tea/fag breaks.
 
It started on the button and didnt whistle or leak.
 
Proper chuffed,
 
Your thoughts or questions.
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 


Edited by guy - 04 Jan 12 at 20:36
You don't need eyes to see it, you need vision.
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote guy Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 05 Jan 12 at 16:25
 
 
There's a few of things I forgot to add...
 
1, the only special tools I had were a 10mm triplesquare (or multispline if you prefer) and a 16mm wobbly socket which you can replicate with a shallow socket and a uj.
N.B. you cant use anything else on the triplesquare such as a hex or you will round it off and then you're in the shite nice and deep.
 
2. Once I had removed the turbo I cleaned up the back of the engine first with brake cleaner then with a small wire tooth brush beiing carefull not to get it in the oilways from the engine.
The cleaner you can get this the better but dont shove crap down the oil ways, bung them up with tissue if needs be.
 
3. When I refitted the dpf there was a slim round gasket which I didn't buy a new one of, instead I put a thin smear of exhaust assembly paste on it , just enough to hold it in place and make a good seal, with this piece its, a less is more position.
 
4. Dont over tighten the arse out of everything, as you'll only regret it later when you've stripped the threads, making more work and causing more wallet raping.
 
5. Plan ahead, get the parts/tools in first, plan the order of attack. stick to the plan !
Do one thing at a time, try not to tackle lots of jobs unsuccessfully.
 
6. Check all items for fit before final tightening, ie when you put the turbo on put the egr bolts in but only finger tight so everything is located correctly, then tighten the turbo leaving the egr bolts till its on the ground and easy to get at.
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
You don't need eyes to see it, you need vision.
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (1) Thanks(1)   Quote kernow Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 31 Jan 12 at 23:21
brilliant thanks for taking the time and the great pictures . Not got a DPF thankfully , but it gives me a good insight into what my manifold will be like to do if the tiny leak gets worse .
 
Have to say not heard of triple square and don't really know what it looks like , maybe i have but by a different name ? photo of the fastener or socket would be fantastic so i know what to look for .
my bigest fear is that when I die the missus will sell my toys for what I said I paid for them
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote gregozedobe Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 01 Feb 12 at 07:52
Triple square = spline drive =12 point = XZN  (but NOT torx)

Here is a list of a few different types (scroll down for triple square):

http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/List_of_screw_drives
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote kernow Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 01 Feb 12 at 20:40
Ok thanks for that , i have a set of spline drive , but the triple square is listed as a seperate type althought i can't see the difference between the two . All have  12 points
my bigest fear is that when I die the missus will sell my toys for what I said I paid for them
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote guy Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 07 Feb 12 at 13:56
Originally posted by kernow kernow wrote:

brilliant thanks for taking the time and the great pictures . Not got a DPF thankfully , but it gives me a good insight into what my manifold will be like to do if the tiny leak gets worse .
 
 
You are quite welcome I hope it helps.
 
 
 
 
Originally posted by kernow kernow wrote:

Have to say not heard of triple square and don't really know what it looks like , maybe i have but by a different name ? photo of the fastener or socket would be fantastic so i know what to look for .
 
 
Triple square is what I know it as and what snap on call it (ex snap on deal you see) but also spline drive, I believe that snap on triple squares to have slghtly different ends in so much as they are not chamfered off and so fit all the way to the bottom of the screw (less slippage or ringing off)
They basically look like the opposite of the end of ring spanner (double hex of course)
 
I can post a pic if you really need me to but I am quite lazy so may have to wait.
 
 
 
You don't need eyes to see it, you need vision.
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote kernow Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 07 Feb 12 at 19:56
No problem Guy I know what drive you are talking about now . I thought that maybe snap on would do something like the flank drive that grips better . Snap on allen key sockets were the only ones that would get the pulleys off the old golfs when changing cam belts .  I used to work on vw a lot back when they were a bit simpler .
my bigest fear is that when I die the missus will sell my toys for what I said I paid for them
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote T5 TDI Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 07 Feb 12 at 22:04
Nice write up Guy Clap  I trust that's not blood on the exhaust gasket.... LOL
 
Interesting to see the diferences on the BNZ engine.  On the AXE and AXD engines I've heard it's easier to take the rear engine mounting off especially if you are taking the exhaust manifold off also.  In fact, I found that I couldn't get the manifold off without undoing the turbo.  I left the engine mounting in place and struggled but I think it would have been quicker to take it off.    http://www.brick-yard.co.uk/forum/turbo-squeal-cure_topic57276.html
 
No DPF, water cooled EGR valve or cast iron manifold on the AXE/AXD engines for anyone interested.
2004 2.5 174
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote energysolutions Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 07 Feb 12 at 22:37
Originally posted by T5 TDI T5 TDI wrote:

Nice write up Guy Clap  I trust that's not blood on the exhaust gasket.... LOL
 
Interesting to see the diferences on the BNZ engine.  On the AXE and AXD engines I've heard it's easier to take the rear engine mounting off especially if you are taking the exhaust manifold off also.  In fact, I found that I couldn't get the manifold off without undoing the turbo.  I left the engine mounting in place and struggled but I think it would have been quicker to take it off.    http://www.brick-yard.co.uk/forum/turbo-squeal-cure_topic57276.html
 
No DPF, water cooled EGR valve or cast iron manifold on the AXE/AXD engines for anyone interested.
 
Judging by how often the crack/break I think they`re made from chocolateLOL
 
 
!!Never Eat Yellow Snow!!
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote mtbtestpilot Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 18 Jun 12 at 14:39
Nice work Guy,
Like you l have just replaced my turbo, got the old one out and had it overhauled for £260.00, fitted all back in only to find l still had a leak between the turbo and block. Had to take all back out but the big difference is that my T5 is a fourmotion which mean't l have to remove all out over the top of the transfer box too. Still have the cuts and scraps to prove it. On a good note l can now remove and refit a turbo in less than 4 hrs. Unlike VW who say this is a 2 day job.
 
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote guy Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 13 Aug 12 at 17:53
Originally posted by mtbtestpilot mtbtestpilot wrote:

Nice work Guy,
Like you l have just replaced my turbo, got the old one out and had it overhauled for £260.00, fitted all back in only to find l still had a leak between the turbo and block. Had to take all back out but the big difference is that my T5 is a fourmotion which mean't l have to remove all out over the top of the transfer box too. Still have the cuts and scraps to prove it. On a good note l can now remove and refit a turbo in less than 4 hrs. Unlike VW who say this is a 2 day job.

 

MTBtestpilot


It's good to know someone got something out of this so as to save themselves a nice big chunk of beer tokens.
It makes it worth the time to write it up.

Thanks.
You don't need eyes to see it, you need vision.
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Thanks for the write up guy, i will be doing this at the weekend.
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote max and caddy Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 19 Mar 14 at 20:38
I have done a few of these and some have had a warped turbo face....no gasket will fix that so it's either a new turbo or get the turbo milled.
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote Rubber Jonny Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 23 Mar 14 at 18:46
Hi everyone,

I did this job yesterday, checked the turbo flange its straight not warped but it still leaks just the same as before!!!!

Any suggestions before I burn the van???

Cheers!
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote Alonline Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 23 Mar 14 at 22:27
Originally posted by Rubber Jonny Rubber Jonny wrote:

Hi everyone,

I did this job yesterday, checked the turbo flange its straight not warped but it still leaks just the same as before!!!!

Any suggestions before I burn the van???

Cheers!

Big dolip of exhaust paste, bed two gaskets together if they fit?

I haven't done the job yet but have used similar fixes with other similar problems???
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote max and caddy Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 24 Mar 14 at 00:24
Originally posted by Rubber Jonny Rubber Jonny wrote:

Hi everyone,

I did this job yesterday, checked the turbo flange its straight not warped but it still leaks just the same as before!!!!

Any suggestions before I burn the van???

Cheers!


Well....it's either warped...or your gasket went on wonky...it's only got two hole to seal up and one has no pressure...my money is on a warped turbo as I have seen a few now like that..

Exhaust paste...erm no.
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote Rubber Jonny Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 24 Mar 14 at 15:03
I suppose I better take it back off and check it again. Cry

How would you have checked for warping? I put a steel rule across it at various angles, looked good to me. How much would you expect to pay for the flange to be skimmed?

EDIT - Just a thought, you say you have seen this before, are you a mechanic / garage that can do this job for me? If so whats your location and how much please?

Thanks for the reply. 


Edited by Rubber Jonny - 24 Mar 14 at 15:19
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[QUOTE=guy]
Right, here goes.
 
I got fed up with fumes coming in the cabin the other day and it was whistling, so I tightened it up and caused a horrendous oil leak.
 
This needed instant immediate attention and heres how I did it, pics provided.
 
The first two pics are what the engine bay looks like before molestation.....
 
 
 
Remove the air box top and air filter, 10mm bolt holds it in place along with the rubber grommet on the back, tug it hard enough to release it then put your hand down the back and undo the drain pipe clipped into the air box.
Wiggle the whole thing out of the way and place on the side/floor.
 
Disconnect the turbo pipes by just opening up the clips a touch and pull the pipe out.
Get down deep and dirty on the turbo itself and us a good pair of clip pliers to undo the pipe to the turbo, pull these pipes clear and place them somewhere clean.
 
It should now look like this.......
 
 
It was at this point I disconnected the vaccum pipe from the servo and the tandem pump so It wasnt in the way, just tug them to release them, remember theyre still plastic and they will break if you go in heavy handed. remove and place on the side.
 
Disconnect the sensors on the bulk head for the dpf, the exhaust temp sender and lambda probe.
Pull them all out of the way so when you remove the dpf they will pull through cleanly.
 
 
Reach down by the turbo and fine the dpf retaining ring, use a 5mm hex to undo this from ontop.
This is a crackingly well designed item that will just gently prize off allowing the spring steel edge to allow expansion and easy removal, take the time to clean the thread and oil the pivot.
 
 
While you are here reach down and look at the triangular plate with three 10mm triplesquare cap head on. undo these now before sliding under the vehicle.
 
As a matter of course I clean every bolt on the wire wheel and apply a quick spray of white grease to aid refitting and prevent struggling next time it needs to come off.
 
Thats it for on top, now jack the bus up at the front and place it on axle stands, I chose to use the end of the subframe as a mounting surface as they're strong and not in the way. Do not use weedy little stands as you're going underneath and dont blame me if you get squashed.
 
Slide underneath and undo the two 13mm nuts on the exhaust sleeve, now its normal for them to round off, mine did so out came the cut off tool and off it came......
 
The sleave...
 
 
The cut off nuts and bolts.....
 
 
Dont worry about this situation, two new nuts and bolts and you're back in business.
 
The sleave just slides one way then pull the pipe down and pull the sleave off.
 
Now turn your attention to the 13mm bolts which hold the dpf in place, undo those.
Look a little furthe up the dpf and there are two 17mm bolts, undo these and the dpf is loose and ready to slide out.
 
Take note of how you remove it as its an arse to refit if you have no idea how it came out.
I wasted half hour till i got it right.
Pull it gently down twisting as needed and it should come out all nice and cleanly like so....
Note all the pipes and sensors fitted, I chose to do it this way as I just couldnt face undoing all the associated pipe work when a little bit of push and shove would negate removal.
 
 
These are the sensors and plugs on the end that I disconnected from the bulk head...
 
 
At this point I pulled them taught and zip tied them to make installation easier.
It worked.
 
Now turn your attention to the turbo.
It's held on by two 16mm nuts and a 10mm triplesquare cap headed bolt.
Undo these from underneath, one of them is not easy to get to but stick with it.
 
Your turbo is now ready for removal. get someone to assist ( to catch the egr bits)
Pull the turbo outwards, grab the egr plates at this point.
Pull the turbo completely and turn it anticlockwise over the engine mount releasing the turbo into space enough for you to remove it out downwards.
 
Your Turbo should look like this..................
 
 
Yes filthy.
 
Looking up into the void left behind you should see this.......
 
 
 
 
 
Now inspect your turbo for end float etc. mine was good as it only ten months old.
 
I chose to block the holes up and stick it in the parts cleaner and clean it very carefully.
Looking at the mounting faceof the turbo it became obvious where the leak was coming from.
 
Before....
 
After....
 
Turbo after cleaning....
 
 
The new one (£1.07 + vat)
 
 
 The old gasket was shot, it was flat as a pancake................
 
 
 
Place the new gasket on the turbo, there are tang on it allowing you to locate it snug and tight.
Now spin it over and place the EGR gasket on. (£2.24+vat) there are also loacting tabs again....
 
 
 
 
Do not fit your turbo just yet as theres the egr
 
you MUST fit a new ring gasket (£7.73+vat)
 
 
I cleaned the triangular flange, the middle spacer and the bolts on the wire wheel.
 
I lined them up accordingly ( trust me its easier) Zip tied two of the corners
 
 
Put it up in place on the manifold...
 
 
NOW LOOK AT THIS PIC CAREFULLY.
 
The triangular plate, gasket and flange are held up by a small piece of GREEN string tied up trough the hole to the bonnet catch.
Try it, you'll thank me after you've drop it on the floor a dozen times.
 
Now roll your turbo in clockwise and straight onto the studs.
pop the 16mm nuts on, just nip them up finger tight, put the 10mm triplequare caphead bolt in the top and pull them all up nice and tight evenly.
 
It's all easy from here, cut the zip ties and string, pop the bolts in the egr from the top, pull them up tight later.
 
Throw the dpf in up the tunnel pop the 13mms in, locate the dpf into the turbo and pop the ring on just pull it up gently and fit the rest of dpf bolts now its in its correct resting place, fit the exhaust sleeve. drop it on the floor and put all the stuff on that you had previously taken off tightening up the egr plate last.
 
I did this start to finish in about four hours, that included nipping up to tps and tea/fag breaks.
 
It started on the button and didnt whistle or leak.
 
Proper chuffed,
 
Your thoughts or questions.
 Great,thanks a lot.
It's quite complicated for me.
Sorry,can I offer you to do this job again for some amount of money?
I just bought 2.5 tdi 174 caravelle and seems I have this problem.
I visit a few garages but they all kick me out:(
If some one interested please call me 07446124432 Boris.

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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote Potholepete Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 22 May 15 at 19:06
Hi there, nice documentation and pics on the work. Did you replace the wire gasket / ring that is on the joint between the turbo and cat pipe. I ask as I am about the replace cat with PPT de-cat on a t5 1.9tdi arc. I'm not shear if I will get away with out replacing clamp and wire gasket or not. Can't find a part number for the wire gasket but vag56 is the right internal 56mm ??any advice would great.
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This guide is just for the FWD, correct?

Ive managed to do my father in law a a promise about replacing turbo in his T5 4-Motion, with a BNZ motor.

Question Ive got:

-Do I need to remove the driveshaft? I think its in the way for the exhaust.
- VW said it was the turbo. What if its not? Intercooler? sensors? There was a reset of the limp mode at VW.
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