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How to make your 2.4 LT1 faster..

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Rabbit 16v View Drop Down
Yardie
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote Rabbit 16v Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Topic: How to make your 2.4 LT1 faster..
    Posted: 28 Feb 14 at 03:18
Ok, a few have asked and I know I have mentioned it in the past that I would do this, so here it is. I will warn you that I am not liable for anything, you break your shit, its not my fault. Wink

Before doing ANY work, verify the engine is in top shape. Proper compression, cam belt is good, valves are adjusted (if you have solid lifters), pump timing is adjusted to spec, and all that sort of business. I also recommend that if you intend to increase the charge pressure, you should install the metal head gasket as the fibre ones tend to blow rather quickly with added boost.

Ok, now we have that out of the way, the next criteria is to install some instrumentation. A boost gauge and a pyrometer are necessary before any mods occur. Pyrometer probe should be installed preturbo. I put mine in the blockoff plate for the EGR valve. Works great and its directly in the exhaust stream. Anyone that tells you installing an EGT probe preturbo is dangerous is likely only using ebay quality parts. I use Autometer gauges and have had one van up 1900°F and the probe did not magically fall off and go into the turbo.

Obviously, some of you do not have turbos, so no need for a boost gauge and very little of this writeup will help you. There will be a couple of things though. I will put an asterisk next to mods that can be done with and without a turbo.

Ok, now that you have installed the gauges, get a reading as to what the engine is doing when being run flat out. My D24TIC had about 10psi of boost and the EGTs never got above 600°F. When I was done with all the mods below, I was getting 20psi of boost and the temp was about 900°F. Plenty of room for more.

** Governor mod. This governor really is detrimental and removing it will wake up the pep pretty nicely. Applies to all 2.4D engines. Here is a link: http://www.vwdiesel.net/forum/index.php?topic=24323.0 Read the ENTIRE first post before performing any work. I also recommend picking up a pump reseal kit. IIRC the part number is DGK 126 for turbo pumps and DGK 124 for NA pumps. You will want to use a new oring on the throttle shaft and a new oring on the LDA where it mates to the pump body. Yes, I know it talks about 4 cylinders, the procedure is still the same.

Intercooler. If you dont have one, install one. This is very important if you are going to ask more from your turbo diesel.

LDA. There are reports out there and articles everywhere for modding this. What I have found to work the best is as follows.. Remove the 4 flathead screws on the LDA cover. Once you have the cover off, you will see the actuator diaphragm. Pay attention to where it was originally. Generally the factory setting is the dot on the large washer on top of the diaphragm is aligned with a small cutout on the edge of the sealing surface of the LDA body itself. Once you remove the diaphragm (this may take some slight rotating whilst pulling, but dont pull hard) you will see the cone shaped jobbie at the bottom of the shaft. Find the orientation of the cone shaped jobbie where the cone is tapered toward the center of the shaft more than any other portion. This is the portion of the cone you want to ride on the enrichment pin which is at the 12 o'clock position if you are viewing the pump from behind the front seats (sitting above where the transmission is). Now that you have found that, there is the star wheel under the diaphragm. I usually spin this one down about two turns clockwise. On the diaphragm, you will also see a white spacer made from plastic. I usually ditch this thing. However, it might be prudent to measure how far the diaphragm pin goes down before the shoulder on the cone shaped jobbie stops on the pin. I have left this thing out for many thousands of miles with no problem, but I thought I should mention it. 

*** Fuel screw. This is the 6mm hex that has a 13mm lock nut that is directly above the fuel shutoff solenoid. Most of the time there is an anti tamper sleeve on the threads which you may need to cut off. This adjustment can very well cause runaway if you arent careful. I like to tweak mine to the max, but it will take its toll on pedestrians, vehicles behind you, and fuel economy. Loosen the 13mm locknut and screw the 6mm hex in half a turn at a time. Road test between turns at WOT and maximum rpm (watch your tach if you already removed the governor). If you are having any problem with revs hanging, back the screw off 1/4 turn at a time.This will be something that you will need to decide what is right for you. Remember, too much fuel will melt the prechambers and consequently, your engine. So keep an eye on the pyrometer when fiddling with this. Avoid sustained 1400°F temps. You will notice letting off the throttle garners a pretty quick response from the pyrometer.

Charge pressure/boost. What I usually do is remove the hose for the wastegate initially. This shows me what sort of boost I am getting with my current fueling settings (see fuel screw mod above). Keep in mind, more charge pressure on a diesel=lower EGTs. Our turbos are pretty much done around 24psi. Anything more than that is just hot air which is not good for power at all. I recommend keeping an eye on the boost gauge though. I have not seen more than 20 psi in my LT, but the clutch is slipping now, so I will need to update this thread once I get the replacement clutch installed. I will probably need a manual boost controller once I get this all dialed in.

Once you have familiarised yourself with these procedures, you can then tune to your liking. The two main things you are going to be working on are the charge air pressure and the fuel screw adjustment. 

Please feel free to ask questions fro clarity and whatnot. I am not adept at writing tutorials. Hope this helps!




Chris
1985 LT40 4x4 2.5 TDI
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote LTCamper89 Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 28 Feb 14 at 05:19
"I am not adept at writing tutorials."

I think you do yourself a disservice. The only way to improve your post would be a few pictures, not easy with diesel fingers and no time machine, I know.

Top stuff Chris, many thanks.
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote Rabbit 16v Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 28 Feb 14 at 06:16
Cheers mate! 

However, I am sure I missed something. Pics are always great, but as you say, time machine would be in order. I am rather hasty when I am in work mode so I dont always think to take pics of things.

I do have enough stuff sitting around that if anyone needs any specific pics, I can take them quite readily.
Chris
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote robbydoo Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 28 Feb 14 at 16:08
Oh dear..........this is all going to get out of hand..........

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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote ringonotts Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 28 Feb 14 at 18:32
This is really interesting.

My main priorities are reliability and then mpg. I don't mind loosing a bit of mpg but im guessing these mods aren't for me?

Do you think this has any impact on engine life? Im thinking not due to how well the volvo's run with it tuned up.

Have you seen much of a drop in MPG? I have to say, having done the LDA pin change on my AAZ i didn't care and just grinned :) However, the LT gets far less mpg than the AAZ T3.....

Cheers,

Ringo
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote Rabbit 16v Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 28 Feb 14 at 18:53
It all depends on how far you go with it. I am sure that if you put it to the max, its going to shorten the engine life a bit. The biggest factor is the headgasket. On the 4 cylinder version of this engine, I have two of them that I give 30 and 35 psi of boost regularly and no issues found after tens of thousands of miles.

I would say mileage is all dependent on how you drive it. My GTD (30psi of boost) gets 55mpg on the highway at 75mph.

Of course I cannot speak to the Lt at this time since the clutch is slipping, so of course I will update with more info when I get the replacement clutch kit fitted.
Chris
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote ringonotts Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 28 Feb 14 at 19:02
Much appreciated. Did you go for an uprated clutch?

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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote Rabbit 16v Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 28 Feb 14 at 19:10
I did. I didnt want to take the chance that the stock replacement clutch might not hold what I intend to throw at it. I am sure the stock clutch would hold up to its present configuration, but I intend to get more power from it.

who knows when and if I will see it :/ I ordered it from Larkspeed..
Chris
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote mat_the_cat Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 28 Feb 14 at 22:17
Interesting stuff. I've done similar to my daily drive (also with the Bosch VE pump), but always been a bit wary of doing to the LT. Not sure why really!

I've not used a pyrometer before, but would agree that it's better/safer to. I simply monitored the boost level, adjusting the linkage on the turbo until the increase in boost levelled off, then increasing the fuelling until the boost increased and so on. I junked the little plastic collar too so the pin could rise up further too!

What I aimed for was a bit of black smoke under load off boost, but relatively little under boost. 80k miles later (now up to 230k miles) and I think I've got a reasonable sweet spot between performance and engine life

EDIT - an excuse to show off one of my other interests apart from LTs!

ttps://www.youtube.com/watch?v=i_wq5ZaDAw0


Edited by mat_the_cat - 28 Feb 14 at 22:19
Mid engined, 6 cylinder, turbocharged 2 seater - it can only be a VW LT!
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote Rabbit 16v Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 01 Mar 14 at 04:17
Yup, thats pretty much the tuning aspect of it. Just a bunch of tweaking until its right where you want it.  I would recommend using a manual boost controller though vs. adjusting the linkage. When you adjsut the linkage, it tends to respond rather poorly vs something that can control it a little better. Of course an electronic boost controller is ideal!

So, what kind of car was that in the video and what did it put down?
Chris
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote LTCamper89 Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 01 Mar 14 at 07:51
Originally posted by Rabbit 16v Rabbit 16v wrote:

Of course an electronic boost controller is ideal


Heresy, I say.
1989 LT28 2.4D    Saviour of 6Music, well one of them. Now playing http://www.bbc.co.uk/radio/player/bbc_6music

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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote Rabbit 16v Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 01 Mar 14 at 07:53
Haha! Well her Highness cannot reach me! ;)
Chris
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote mat_the_cat Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 01 Mar 14 at 13:58
Originally posted by Rabbit 16v Rabbit 16v wrote:

When you adjsut the linkage, it tends to respond rather poorly vs something that can control it a little better.
So, what kind of car was that in the video and what did it put down?

Interesting...another disadvantage (for me!) is that the linkage was rather difficult to get to, and you can only access it from underneath.

It's a Citroën BX - best run was 114 bhp compared with a standard 90. Hardly big numbers but it's a fairly light car (~1000 kg) by modern standards.


Mid engined, 6 cylinder, turbocharged 2 seater - it can only be a VW LT!
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote Uberhare Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 02 Mar 14 at 03:12
Governor mod is different than the link posted.   The standard LT pump uses an agricultural style one.  Totally different setup inside.  Sorry - didn't take any pics.   If you have a Volvo pump then go ahead - looks the same.  Mine was setup using a pump dyno.  Full fuel to 3500 - stock it starts to drop aT300 believe it or not.  


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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote Rabbit 16v Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 02 Mar 14 at 04:28
Could you explain the 'standard' LT pump? 

Obviously, I dont have one of those and the link I posted directly correlated to my pump. 

Its not necessarily a Volvo pump, its a Bosch VE pump. An industrial pump my very well be different, but I dont see the factory putting an industrial pump on a commercial vehicle..
Chris
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote Uberhare Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 04 Mar 14 at 02:32
Both are Bosch VE pumps.  They have different style governors inside.  If it wasn't -23 degrees I'd go out to the shop and dig out the parts pumps to show you.  Even the way the advance cage operates is different.


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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote Rabbit 16v Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 04 Mar 14 at 02:40
Put your warm hat on! j/k. Some pics would be very helpful! 
Chris
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote Canada LT28 Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 10 Mar 14 at 11:04
Don't ask him to go to the shed, he may never come back. You haven't seen that placeWink

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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote asiormax Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 25 Sep 16 at 21:57
Good read. Thank you
VW LT28 2,4TD SVEN HEDIN WESTFALIA

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