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Topic ClosedHow to fit Caravelle Lights

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Mr Hedgehog View Drop Down

Joined: 26 Oct 06
Location: Wiltshire :)
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Points: 2197
Direct Link To This Post Topic: How to fit Caravelle Lights
    Posted: 30 Aug 07 at 23:52

I have had a couple of requests asking to post again with reposted pictures so sorry for the delay and please find it belowSmile

This is how I fitted the Caravelle lights in my Transporter van, Please do NOT use it as a how to guide as I don�t want to be responsible for someone damaging their van

1. Remove under engine noise insulation plastic guard this is done to gain access to the front lower bumper mounting bolts

2. Undo the front screws in the front wheel housing liners this is done to gain access to the 6mm bumper mounting bolts

3 Remove front bumper add on components, I use a plastic wedge to pop out the bumper strip trim ETC it measures about 5cm by 10cm, the shorter edge I have filled to long point and when you knock this in around the edges of the plastic covers they come out easily with no marking

Please note it is not necessary to remove the lower fog light covers Numbers 3 & 5 in picture

4. Remove front bumper, I used cables ties so I could leave mine hanging,

So I did not have to remove the wiring that runs along the inside of the front of the bumper

5. Fit new Headlights, if you are replacing the bulbs I would recommend doing them before you put the new lights in as afterwards access is very tight.

Then replace everything you removed

Making sure that no fasteners are left over

Wiring Post to follow

Edited by orangina - 19 Nov 09 at 15:27
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Mr Hedgehog View Drop Down

Joined: 26 Oct 06
Location: Wiltshire :)
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Points: 2197
Direct Link To This Post Posted: 31 Aug 07 at 00:18

This is how I wired the Caravelle lights in my Transporter van, Please do NOT use it as a how to guide as I dont want to be responsible for someone damaging their van

Until there is more simple or better way of getting the headlights run properly this is what I decided to do as it make no permanent changes to the wiring loom and makes no extra holes in the van

The problem in wiring the lights in is get the low beam to stay on while the high beam is on, so I brought a fast fit wiring kit for 55/60w driving lights

1.On the connecting block that goes into the back of the headlights use a very small screw driver to pop out the female spade connector from the connector block its numbered 7 on both sides, the wire is yellow on the drivers side and yellow/black on the passenger side,

Heat shrink over the spade connectors and then cover in loom tape so they cannot short out on anything


2.Insert a new female spade connector into each block with a wire attached running into the feed out side of the new relay, I followed the original loom along the inside front of the bumper for the drivers side headlight as my relay is positioned close to the battery

3.Scotch block the relay activating wire to the thick white wire on the main E1 light switch in the dash, removing the switch is incredibly easy, turn the switch to the 0 position (off) then press the knob in and hold in, turn the switch just over halfway between 0 and the side lights position then pull the switch and you will find the whole switch will just slide out easily

4.Run the activating wire to the relay, the route I used was along the bottom of the dash, inside the panels to a rubber bung in the far left hand side of the bulk head just behind the glove box. To ensure the wire going through the bung did not let water in I drilled a 2mm hole in the middle of the bung, passed the wire through then sealed with PU sealer


5.Wire up the relay the main power in feed I connect straight to the + positive battery terminal (red wire ) with a in line fuse fitted, the earth for the relay I connected to the battery terminal, then using the hole that is already in the inner wing secure the relay and tidy up the wiring making sure that the wire cannot chaff on anything




Working lights that behave how they should with no disturbance to the original wiring loom apart from the one scotch block connector



Since doing this conversion I have driven over 30,000 miles with no problems at all from the lights or anything else

I am very happy that I decided to go down the Caravelle head light route as the much talked about HID conversion kits that you can buy are illegal to use in the UK to use a HID setup in a car/van the headlights must be automatically self levelling and have a washer mechanism or when you get stopped at one of the increasing common mobile VOSA vehicle stop check points you can have your van seized for not conforming to the road traffic act


I would be very interested in hearing how other people wired up their lights as I have heard there is another way but I decided to play it safeSmile

Edited by Mr Hedgehog
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gregozedobe View Drop Down

Joined: 22 Dec 06
Location: Canberra, Oz
Status: Offline
Points: -998474
Direct Link To This Post Posted: 17 Jul 09 at 12:19

Here is yet another method of wiring up Caravelle/Multivan (twin reflector) headlights so Lo beam comes on with Hi beam.  All the wiring changes are at the actual headlights, not in the cabin of the van.  Read on if you’re interested.


I recently had an auto electrician wire up the new Caravelle headlights I had just fitted to my T5 to replace the standard H4 single reflector headlights.


I got him to put in a relay to supply power directly from the battery to the Lo beam globes as I was putting in slightly higher wattage globes (the much brighter Osram Rallye 65W globes rather than the OEM 55W) and I didn't want to get any voltage drop or overload the standard wires/switches/fuses etc. 


At the same time he also installed a H1 HID kit (to Hi beam only, I don't support HID kits for Lo beam in reflectors designed for halogen globes, as way too often they produce a lot of stray light that dazzles other drivers, plus in most places they are illegal unless you add auto height adjustment and headlight washers).


He used a diode from the high beam circuit to operate the low beam relay he had put in, so he didn't fiddle with the wiring inside the cabin at all.  I think "The Loon" may have done a similar thing but using a relay instead of a diode.  If you want to send all the power to Lo beam via Hi beam then a (different) relay (and appropriate sized wires and fuses) would be a good idea. 


This diode acts as a one way "valve" and allows the lo beam circuit to work as usual (without allowing power to the hi beam circuit), but when you select Hi beam it switches the lo beam back on as well (so it appears as if it was never switched off)


The Lo beam signal (for the new Lo beam relay) was taken from the wire (inside the headlight) that usually goes to the outer Lo beam H7 bulb, and a diode connected the H1 (Hi beam) wire with the Lo beam signal wire (that now goes to the relay to switch Lo beam on and off) , so the power from Hi beam switched on Lo beam as well, but because it was connected by a diode the current from Lo beam couldn't flow "backwards" to illuminate Hi beam when you only wanted Lo beam.


Sort of like this:  [Lo Beam relay control wire] <--- diode <--- [Hi Beam circuit]  if that makes sense.


If you are doing this make sure you cover up all exposed connections so they can't short out as you go over bumps etc. and make sure you put a fuse in the power supply to the new relay for Lo beam.

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