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How to change T5 Auto Gearbox Oil

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Yardie
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    Posted: 16 Feb 08 at 05:54

Started on gearbox oil change today.
2.5L 2004 T5 TDI 6 spd Aisin 09K tiptronic auto
75,000km
Tools needed

13mm socket
10mm socket
socket extension(6")
Ratchet socket handle
5mm Allen key,plus extension if required
Large drain tub


Went for a bit of a drive to warm gearbox

Raised vehicle on stands.Front wheels able to freewheel.Vehicle was not quite level, but ok for me, as i didn't feel comfortable raising the vehicle too high.Make sure you place vehicle supports so as to leave enough room for drain tub under gearbox.


Removed underbody sump guard/cover - 6 bolts, 13mm head

Now the fun starts.
Started engine, and let idle.Checked vehicle stands once more.Place drain tub under drain hole of sump.Engaged drive and idle only for a bit.Brake and back to park.
Lightly cracked the gearbox drain,5mm key.Unscrewed fully.Oil poured out quite significantly for a bit, was not expecting this as i thought it would only weep.Gearbox must have been overfilled from factory.Also angle i had vehicle at should also have ensured no draining either.

Waited till oil only weeping.Turned engine off.

Drain level tube up inside the sump drain can be removed with 5mm allen key.The tube is only plastic, so make sure the key is seated fully.


Drain the rest of the oil 


Collected some of the oil to check condition.Looks quite good



 
Remove two screws,10mm heads, holding coolant pipe to RHS of gearbox, and push the pipes out of the way a little.
Crack all seven sump bolts,10mm head.These were not overly tight, as they screw into aluminium.
Now, sump is a little reluctant to drop away completely, as it fouls the frame member a little.Wiggle it a bit till it drops free.Watch out for seal rubber as you remove sump.




Examined sump pan and gearbox entrails.Refitted sump drain pipe.




Collected used oil and came out to about 3.5L.Oil looks reasonably good to my untrained eye.There is a little fuzz on the sump magnets, a little trash in base of sump.Overall quite good i think.

Notice that gearbox magnets are not stuck down and can be removed for cleaning.

Now to remove filter, 3 bolts, 10mm head.These are a little tighter than sump bolts, no thread lock.As you crack the filter bolts, more oil will drain.Remove filter.I was expecting a foam type filter plus mesh, but it is only a single gauze mesh type.There is some junk on the gauze.

Pt No. 09K 325 429 (for 2004 T5 09K gearbox)


Refitted sump lightly, so no dust gets on gearbox internals, and left gearbox to drain further overnight.

Removed fill pipe mounting bolt(up on the side of the gearbox) and removed fill pipe totally.The red cap is an awkward little sucker to remove successfully.Hopefully the pics show how it works.The grey plug has two flaps, set at 180 degrees that lock slightly to the flange of the pipe.If you squeeze the plug at 90 degrees to the flaps, the plug can be removed.



Next day,emptied out another approx 0.5L today from sump pan.Total removed approx 4L.

Refitted cleaned magnets to sump pan.DON'T FORGET.
Refitted fill pipe, new filter,sump gasket and sump.Refitted coolant pipes to mounting.Left sump plug off.


Added approx 2L through fill pipe, till it started to drip out of the pan drain.Started engine and let run for a few minutes.Gearbox sump pan is now warm to touch.Sump not dripping so added another litre.Still not dripping.

Foot on brake, vehicle at idle only, ran through R-N-D pausing at each for approx 10 seconds.
Continued to fill till dripping out of drain(engine running).Total approx 4L all up.Reinstalled sump plug.Turned engine off.Refitted fill plug, left red cap off.
Let vehicle off stands and had a short cruise.Seems much the same, hard to tell any difference, maybe doesn't "slip" so much on planting foot.

I think i will run it for a week or so, then recheck fluid level and if ok,refit red fill cap and sump guard/cover.

All done.



Edited by Rebuild - 17 Jul 17 at 13:49
Steve
2004 LWB 2.5 TDI 128KW auto
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote T5 TDI Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 16 Feb 08 at 23:05

Nice post RB   

The requirement for the 1551 tool  (VWs version of vag-com)   mentioned in MMs post seems to be there really just to confirm the oil temp I suppose.  I know it can check for fault codes too and I read that there are some adjustments that can be made that way but I certainly wouldn't dare do it. 

2004 2.5 174
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote Rebuild Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 17 Feb 08 at 05:25

I have read of increasing the line pressure on the older gearboxes.Reports of more positive shifts and less slip.

http://forums.tdiclub.com/showthread.php?p=582617

I could not see any such adjustment on this one, just wondering if the VAGCOM tool can do this electronically.Anyone care to look?

Steve
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote Rebuild Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 18 Feb 08 at 06:19
OK,first decent drive today, and i have noticed much smoother shifting in the lower gears, whereas before it tended to clunk into each gear a little.Quite pleased with the improvement.
Steve
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote jets Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 20 Feb 08 at 23:14
Very good write up Rebuild. When I did my T4 I used a trolley jack against the sump as I undid all the screws & gently lowered it down, didn't loose a drop. This may not work as well with the T5 because of the extra pipes.
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote Rebuild Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 04 Jan 14 at 06:39
I have edited the above procedure to reflect the removal of the level tube as an easier drain method.
 

137.2K km
just an update on second partial oil change
The filter was even cleaner this time, a little junk on the magnets
The Penrite DX-VI oil is no longer recommended as a VW equivalent, but i have used it again

Edited by Rebuild - 07 Jan 14 at 10:19
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote vwstevens Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 26 Mar 14 at 23:13
A massive 'thank you' for the guide. My son in law used this to do an ATF change on my 54 Shuttle today. It has done 250,000 miles so it was well-overdue! The old fluid was almost black and very 'treacly' in the bottom of the drip tray so it was well worth doing! If it lasts another 250k I'll be well pleased. I wonder how many people have used your guide over the years since you wrote it? Cheers again for a great write-up and pictures.......

Edited by vwstevens - 26 Mar 14 at 23:16
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote Ozevo Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 01 Jan 15 at 09:45
I'm a new year but am rapidly appreciating what a complex vehicle I have with my 06 t5 TDI Crewvan!
Excellent description of auto trans oil change! My JUM auto did not have a filler pipe as per this thread (found this out after I drained the oil; d'oh!) so I had to make up a filler pipe to screw in to the drain plug thread (3/8 UNF thread, happy to supply details) and pump the penrite DXVI oil in that way, as per my Elsawin manual.
However.... After replacing the red plastic level tube, Initially I could not replace as much oil as I took out. (3.6 litre out, only 2.6 back in initially) the oil kept on running back out with the inline off after selecting R,N and D for 10 secs each with and then turning the engine off.
Upon consulting the Elsawin manual again i discovered that it coyly says that the auto box with no filler tube transmission oil level should be checked with the engine running.
Sure enough I was able to get the additional oil (total approx 3.6 litres) back in with the auto with the engine running with the auto in 'P'.
The van was on level ground etc., and a new auto filter and gasket had been installed.
Should the auto trans level be checked with the engine running? How should I check the oil level? Engine on or off?
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote Ozevo Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 01 Jan 15 at 09:48
Ps; new year = newbie!
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote Ozevo Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 01 Jan 15 at 09:50
PPS, 'old' oil was very dark and had a burnt smell about it.
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote Rebuild Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 01 Jan 15 at 10:31
Originally posted by Ozevo Ozevo wrote:


Should the auto trans level be checked with the engine running? How should I check the oil level? Engine on or off?


motor running, to check auto gearbox oil level.
Most likely the TC and pump sit higher than the gearbox sump, and need to have the fluid circulating, hence you will get more fluid in, when running.
The VW manual quotes a certain oil temp also (30-40C i think), but i never bothered.



Edited by Rebuild - 01 Jan 15 at 13:14
Steve
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote Ozevo Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 01 Jan 15 at 22:42
Thanks for the prompt reply, Rebuild! 
I will leave the motor under-shield off and run the van for a week or so and then check again. What with spillages (me being clumsy) I used all the 4 litres in the Penrite DX-VI pack. I assume its available in 1 litre packs for top ups.
HNY to all!

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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote Alonline Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 05 Jan 15 at 14:17
Very similar to doing the Porsche auto boxes. There oil goes black/dark red and lumpy and blocks the filter with what looks like half set jelly.

I drain the box, refill, run it for about a week and then change again, you get allot of crap out with new fluid. New filter and new fluid and then all is well.

Makes a big difference to the box when done. VW like porsche said never change it, I do them around 70K as the fluid appears to go off.

The filter I had was mesh on top but more a paper element lower down.

Good write up!Thumbs Up
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote richiet5 Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 31 Jan 15 at 23:46
Hi there
is the level tube located inside the drain plug? 
How do I check my atf level?
thanks
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote Rebuild Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 04 Feb 15 at 03:54
is the level tube located inside the drain plug?  Yes
How do I check my atf level?  I think i explained it well enough above(did you even read it?), but here it is again.
- engine running, vehicle on level ground
- gearbox oil at approx 30-40C.To do it properly you need VAG software to read oil temp
- remove gearbox sump plug
- oil should only drip out, if at all.
- if low, fill as above main text, or an adapter to sump plug as per Ozevo
- if high, let it drain.
- refit sump plug


Edited by Rebuild - 04 Feb 15 at 11:19
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote Alonline Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 04 Feb 15 at 09:35
I do the Porsche like Ed China, laser thermometer, as long as it is warm the fluid will flow easily.

Maybe I am doing it all wrong but on them it works?
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote andyt5 Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 12 May 16 at 08:34
Originally posted by Rebuild Rebuild wrote:

Hi there thanks for your post it has been most helpful
I have  a 2009 t5 2.5 auto and I'm about to embark on the auto oil change
The filler plug on the 2009 seems to be a bit different from the one shown in your photos, just wondering if you are aware of any changes to the auto over the years.
it seems to be the same location, but it just threw me a bit of a curve ball and I thought I might get another experienced opinion before I start

Thanks very much

Started on gearbox oil change today.
2.5L 2004 T5 TDI 6 spd Aisin 09K tiptronic auto
75,000km
Tools needed

13mm socket
10mm socket
socket extension(6")
Ratchet socket handle
5mm Allen key,plus extension if required
Large drain tub

Went for a bit of a drive to warm gearbox
Raised vehicle on stands.Front wheels able to freewheel.Vehicle was not quite level, but ok for me, as i didn't feel comfortable raising the vehicle too high.Make sure you place vehicle supports so as to leave enough room for drain tub under gearbox.

Removed underbody sump guard/cover - 6 bolts, 13mm head
Now the fun starts.
Started engine, and let idle.Checked vehicle stands once more.Place drain tub under drain hole of sump.Engaged drive and idle only for a bit.Brake and back to park.
Lightly cracked the gearbox drain,5mm key.Unscrewed fully.Oil poured out quite significantly for a bit, was not expecting this as i thought it would only weep.Gearbox must have been overfilled from factory.Also angle i had vehicle at should also have ensured no draining either.


Waited till oil only weeping.Turned engine off.
Drain level tube up inside the sump drain can be removed with 5mm allen key.The tube is only plastic, so make sure the key is seated fully.

Drain the rest of the oil 


Collected some of the oil to check condition.Looks quite good


 
Remove two screws,10mm heads, holding coolant pipe to RHS of gearbox, and push the pipes out of the way a little.
Crack all seven sump bolts,10mm head.These were not overly tight, as they screw into aluminium.
Now, sump is a little reluctant to drop away completely, as it fouls the frame member a little.Wiggle it a bit till it drops free.Watch out for seal rubber as you remove sump.



Examined sump pan and gearbox entrails.Refitted sump drain pipe.

Collected used oil and came out to about 3.5L.Oil looks reasonably good to my untrained eye.There is a little fuzz on the sump magnets, a little trash in base of sump.Overall quite good i think.

Notice that gearbox magnets are not stuck down and can be removed for cleaning.

Now to remove filter, 3 bolts, 10mm head.These are a little tighter than sump bolts, no thread lock.As you crack the filter bolts, more oil will drain.Remove filter.I was expecting a foam type filter plus mesh, but it is only a single gauze mesh type.There is some junk on the gauze.

Refitted sump lightly, so no dust gets on gearbox internals, and left gearbox to drain further overnight.

Removed fill pipe mounting bolt(up on the side of the gearbox) and removed fill pipe totally.The red cap is an awkward little sucker to remove successfully.Hopefully the pics show how it works.The grey plug has two flaps, set at 180 degrees that lock slightly to the flange of the pipe.If you squeeze the plug at 90 degrees to the flaps, the plug can be removed.

Next day,emptied out another approx 0.5L today from sump pan.Total removed approx 4L.

Refitted cleaned magnets to sump pan.DON'T FORGET.
Refitted fill pipe, new filter,sump gasket and sump.Refitted coolant pipes to mounting.Left sump plug off.

Added approx 2L through fill pipe, till it started to drip out of the pan drain.Started engine and let run for a few minutes.Gearbox sump pan is now warm to touch.Sump not dripping so added another litre.Still not dripping.
Foot on brake, vehicle at idle only, ran through R-N-D pausing at each for approx 10 seconds.
Continued to fill till dripping out of drain(engine running).Total approx 4L all up.Reinstalled sump plug.Turned engine off.Refitted fill plug, left red cap off.
Let vehicle off stands and had a short cruise.Seems much the same, hard to tell any difference, maybe doesn't "slip" so much on planting foot.

I think i will run it for a week or so, then recheck fluid level and if ok,refit red fill cap and sump guard/cover.

All done.

Andy
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote sunny43.5 Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 12 May 16 at 11:06
Whilst this is an old post it reminds me of how bad a design this auto was . how could VW have expected the fluid to remain pristine inside the sealed box . When our auto failed because VW dealers would not do the service at 60000 kilometres we found the fluid was BLACK the sludge in the sump pan was so thick I wrote my initials in it then the filter was completely blocked with debris etc . This had caused ours to self detonate bloody expensive to rebuild , all because those idiots at VW seemed to think the fluid would last . They sold the auto as a "Sealed for Life "but they would never disclose what was "Life " . Then they had the gall to release the DSG and then let everyone know that they SHOULD be serviced at 60000 and guess where the filter is in a DSG yep OUTSIDE the box hmm  I smell a rat .

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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote Rebuild Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 12 May 16 at 11:39
Originally posted by andyt5 andyt5 wrote:


Hi there thanks for your post it has been most helpful
I have  a 2009 t5 2.5 auto and I'm about to embark on the auto oil change
The filler plug on the 2009 seems to be a bit different from the one shown in your photos, just wondering if you are aware of any changes to the auto over the years.
it seems to be the same location, but it just threw me a bit of a curve ball and I thought I might get another experienced opinion before I start

Thanks very much
 


Andy, in future don't quote the orig post, it's unnecessary.

I'm not familiar with later models.
The gearbox can also be filled through the drain hole in the sump with a suitable fitting as referenced above by Ozevo


Edited by Rebuild - 12 May 16 at 11:40
Steve
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote Ozevo Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 12 May 16 at 14:35
Hi, I changed the trans. oil (to Penrite) as suggested on this thread and had a couple of months of trouble-free motoring, then the auto started playing up with poor (mushed) upward gear changes and bad baulking as it selected the lower gears coming to a halt. I changed the oil again and found small particles of metal on the filter, reset the transmission memory but the problem got no better.
Having found the only Auto Transmission repair shop in Victoria to look at the problems I took it for a computer analysis which interestingly presented no active transmission fault codes. However I was advised last july that the transmission was destroying itself and  I was presented with a full $6400 rebuild!!!
Given that the van is worth squat with a stuffed 'box, I booked it in.
Now, I have no allegiance to this organisation but was extremely happy with the service I received. 
The Manager, Sid Quintal has a lot of experience with these boxes and although he doesn't do too many these days he has done quite a few in the past!!!
The van was dropped off on Monday and I picked it up Thursday lunch time.
The following work was done;

New Gaskets, Seals, Rings And Oil Seals

New Friction Plates

New Band

New Oil Filter

New Bushings

New Bearings

New Servo Piston Assembly

New Aftermarket Forward & Direct Clutch Drum

New Electrical Solenoid Block

Transgo Correction Kit

Remanufactured Quality Torque Converter

 Dyno Tested To Ensure Smooth Operation

New OEM Gaskets, Seals, Rings And Oil Seals

New Friction Plates

New Oil Filter

New OEM Updated Wave Ring

New OEM Oil Pump Half Assembly

New OEM Solenoids

Remanufactured Quality Torque Converter

Dyno Tested To Ensure Smooth Operation

After all the preliminary tests are carried out and accepted, our transmissions are all built in an environmentally controlled area where we ensure the best rebuilding practises are followed and our quality control is strictly adhered to. When the rebuild process is completed, all our transmissions are dyno & leak tested prior to shipping or installation and fluid filled to allow for a cooler flow check to be performed in the vehicle.

2 Year/50,000km warranty (Non Commercial Vehicles) applies to our fully rebuilt transmission and torque-converter assemblies which have all been through testing for Valve-Body/Mechatronic operation, component leak down, clearance and specification check, before being assembled. Once assembled, they are then dyno tested prior to shipping or fitting.

For those of you interested this is where I went

Sid Quintal

Service Manager

A&B Automotive Remanufacturing

12-14 Cahill Street, Dandenong South

Victoria. 3175

Ph: 03 9768 3755

Fax: 03 9768 3543

E-Mail: sid@abautomatics.com.au

 www.abautomatics.com.au

I had a quick tour of the workshop facility which is impressive and spotless. Interesting to see the number of prestige cars there that have endemic auto box issues that A&B repair, they have the only Australian licence to repair ZF boxes. 
I hope this helps.Smile


Bruce
07 (06 build) TDI Auto Crewvan
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