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How to: AXD Gates Coupling/Alternator Removal

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Liquidfreak View Drop Down
Yardie
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote Liquidfreak Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Topic: How to: AXD Gates Coupling/Alternator Removal
    Posted: 26 Jul 13 at 23:51

So, back again with another how to, hopefully this one will take less than a year to complete unlike the last one. Warning to you again, I am not a mechanic. I will be using some of the photos that T5 VWO put up back in 2009, as well as my own.

Tool list: Required
!!Special Tool Required for this job!! Alternator Pulley - See Photo Below
* Ramps
* Jack
* 6mm Allan key bit
* 10mm Spanner
* 13mm Spanner
* 17mm Spanner
* 13mm Socket
* 16mm Socket
* 17mm Socket
* 18mm Socket
* Ratchet
* Socket Extension
* Large Flat-blade Screwdriver
* Small Flat-blade Screwdriver
* Vice
* Long breaker bar/long pipe that fits over your ratchet and 17mm spanner

Note: the spanners I am using have ratchets built in and are also multi-angled.

Tool list: Good Idea.
* Light

_________________________________________________

Parts List: Required
* 1x Coupling: 070 903 327 D 

* 1x Freewheel: 070 903 201 E 

_________________________________________________

Special tool required. Not sure where is best to get them, I was lucky in that my neighbour had one. Don't count on your neighbour having one! Smile


Parts that are required. Again, as T5 VWO experienced, I only needed the bottom two items listed (as per part list)



So... get your van up on ramps.
Begin by taking the under tray off (13mm bolts), then take bumper off following the directions here http://www.brick-yard.co.uk/forum/how-to-fit-caravelle-lights_topic18795.html

Now you should be left with something like this:


What you want to do now is remove the intercooler, there might be a little bit of oil in the pipes, there was on mine. This is a quick removal, might be slightly slower for you as mine was held on by hopes and dreams (had no bolts holding it on). To remove the intercooler, you need to lever the clasp up and wiggle. Dead easy. I tied mine up just so they didn't leak any oil. 

Then you want to start removing some pipes. I should explain that I don't intend on changing the coolant or power steering fluid so I have not removed the radiator, I have merely moved it out of the way.

I began by removing the pipe from the coolant reservoir - be careful as this might possibly be pressurised and in fact, it might be worth opening the top cap. 
This might leak some fluid so you will probably want to string it up and add some more once you have finished.

Next is the power steering cooler? Not actually sure why it has this, perhaps someone could enlighten me?
Remove both of the pipes on the radiator side as shown below.
You'll want to tie up the one from the reservoir so that it doesn't all piss out.

Thats all of the pipes that I removed. Now you want to move the radiator or remove it completely if you are going down that route. This is dead simply again, although it had me stumped for ages! 
So this is what you are trying to remove:
it is halfway down the radiator on both sides. 
It comes apart by using a flat blade screwdriver like so:
Just lever it and it should come off, possibly bringing the washer with it.

Now the radiator should be fair game for moving. at the top of the slam panel, there are two springy push things (sorry brain fart, can't think of what to call them). Push them down. Pull the radiator forward from the top until the radiator is free from the slam panel. Then pull upwards so the rubber part of the fixings (above) comes out. You might want to use a flat blade screwdriver for this.

If you are doing this the same way as I have (without removing the radiator) you are going to want to prop the radiator away from the van. I used a bit of wood, be resourceful! Big smile
Be very careful as the fan and another sensor will still be plugged in. Remove these.

You should now have something like this: 
Although, perhaps less blurry!


So, lets dive in.

You should know what an alternator looks like, but if not, it is pretty much dead centre in the photo above and looks like this:


Use jack to jack up the engine mount (you want the bit closer to the engine). 

Remove balance weight. Use a small flat blade screwdriver to get the top cap off. Then use a 13mm socket with extender to remove it.

Balance weight is made up of 5, 6, and 7. 

Next, you can go one of two ways here, this did not work for me! Remove the engine mount bolt. 18mm. If you are lucky you'll get it out. However, I had to us a 4ft breaker bar to get mine to budge. I actually had to replace my engine mount as it had deteriorated and had split halfway through - no point doing the job twice! 

So, if you can't get the bolt out, tackle it this way. Undo the two 13mm bolts that hold the engine mount to the frame, one can be seen in the picture below. The bolt head is on the underside.

Then you want to take the bracket off that connects to the engine mount. This requires undoing 5 bolts, all 16mm. Three are undone from below the van, and the other two can be accessed from the front of the van. One of them is a complete bastard to get to if you haven't managed to get the bolt out from the engine mount. Perseverance is key!

In this ETKA image, (you only need to see the lower half), As above, the bolts you are looking to take out are all three of the 3's, 5 and 4. 5 is the bastard one. 2 is that bracket that comes off, and 1 is the one that stays. Hopefully this makes sense, I found it helpful.


Your van should now look like this.

Next, you will want to remove the electrics from the alternator. I would suggest that you remove the negative from your battery before you do anything else. 
Remove the plug on the alternator, then use a small flat-blade to prise up the cap on the earthing bolt. Remove bolt, its a 13mm.

Now we are ready to remove the alternator. Undo all of the bolts (insert picture here)
Be careful as it is pretty heavy.

Once it is out, remove the coupling. Your van should look pretty empty now like this:

Take your alternator:

Put the alternator on your work bench, and try to set it all up like so with a vice and the special tool:
I had to use a 4ft breaker bar to get this bolt to budge, even then it didn't want to give up. It is a standard thread (not left-handed), so if you have it set up like I did then you'll want to be pulling/pushing the spanner/breaker bar downwards.


Edited by Liquidfreak - 03 Sep 13 at 00:31
2004 VW T5 Panel Van T30 2.5 130 AXD Engine
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote Rebuild Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 30 Jul 13 at 11:45
nice writeup.
I notice yours doesn't have the aircon condensor.
For those with aircon, the condensor sits between the rad and intercooler.
I don't think moving the condensor 45deg laterally as above, would work with mine, as it's semi-rigid pipework.
 
Bumper removal is here,
 
with some of my own here,


Edited by Rebuild - 30 Jul 13 at 12:01
Steve
2004 LWB 2.5 TDI 128KW auto
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote s3swiss Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 30 Jul 13 at 13:12
Nice write-up. Did you know the front radiator assembly can be slid forward on a couple of special extended bolts? I bought mine from ebay Germany (about £20 inc delivery). They screw into the lower bumper mounting bolt holes and allow the front to be slid out about 20cm. I used mine for glowplug change. Not sure they would work for this job as it looks like the engine mount needs a bit more room to get out! I'm on 80k so will need to do this job in about 20k...
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote Liquidfreak Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 30 Jul 13 at 22:03
Cheers Guys, 

I had got your intake manifold removal on my phone, was going to link it in for the bumper removal. I didn't know that you could do that with the pins, good to know though. I would imagine that you need to undo all of the hoses to do that? 
It's still not back together yet - hence why I haven't finished the guide. Been waiting on an engine mount - arriving tomorrow, and in the mean time, carpeting the back.


2004 VW T5 Panel Van T30 2.5 130 AXD Engine
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote s3swiss Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 31 Jul 13 at 13:51
Hoses remain attached (apart from intercooler air hoses). Think it is called the 'transport position' or something like that? Gives you about the same space as when you lift the front forward on the old T4 (if you have seen that - if not, you won't be any the wiser! LOL)
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote Liquidfreak Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 31 Jul 13 at 15:59
Hmm that might be worth getting the parts for! I know that it is possible on a T4, and had thought that it would have been a stupid thing to ditch on the T5.

Cheers
Swiss.
2004 VW T5 Panel Van T30 2.5 130 AXD Engine
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote Rayb Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 02 Dec 13 at 12:15
Does anybody have pictures and diagram of these extended bolts for moving rads forward some dimensions would be nice
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote Alonline Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 02 Dec 13 at 21:36
Originally posted by Rayb Rayb wrote:

Does anybody have pictures and diagram of these extended bolts for moving rads forward some dimensions would be nice
 
Sealey offer them as a kit now, not sure of the number but found them on Eurospares website last night.
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote max and caddy Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 02 Dec 13 at 22:57
M10 studding will do the job for nowt...but it can all be left on on do the gates anyway..windy gun the freewheels off..
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote CMP260 Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 02 Oct 14 at 09:00
hey liquidfreak,
whats the symptom of the gates failing? Ive got a godawful squalling sound when accelerating hard.

First I thought it might be turbo since Ive got smoke problems too, but theres no smoke until its warm and I think it would smoke when cold too if it was turbo bearings right?
was a 2006 130 shuttle
now a 2006 174 multivan
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote Liquidfreak Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 18 Oct 14 at 21:43
Hi mate, sorry for the late reply, I don't tend to come on here much any more. 
As for the symptoms, I really can't remember, it was so long ago. Think I did it as a precautionary thing rather than failure.
The only way that would cause a squealing sound would be if it was slipping, and in theory that would strip the splines and you'd soon know about it as your battery would stop getting charged.
First thing I'd do is clean your MAF sensor and see if that cures your smoking problem. Sounds like you might have a bit of a boost leak to be honest.
2004 VW T5 Panel Van T30 2.5 130 AXD Engine
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