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Heater fan motor

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mat_the_cat View Drop Down
Vanorak
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    Posted: 13 Nov 11 at 21:25
After a hot summer holiday abroad with no blower fan to cool us down I thought I'd better fix the motor before next year! Took the motor casing apart to find that the motor can completely seized and rotating the fan just span that on the shaft. Nothing for it but to strip the motor down and attempt a repair.

The fan pressed off the shaft with no damage, and I could then see that it had seized due to rust between the magnets and armature. A couple of taps in the shaft had it moving (just) but the magnets were no longer attached to the housing. The motor is obviously not designed for disassembly but I managed to prise off the end of the motor and remove the armature.

I've now glued the magnets back in place with JB weld, and will reassemble tomorrow. The resistor pack board connectors have disintegrated due to corrosion as well, so if a new one is too pricey then I'll have to repair that somehow too. Don't you just love old vehicles!
Mid engined, 6 cylinder, turbocharged 2 seater - it can only be a VW LT!
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote AndyT Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 13 Nov 11 at 22:22
Wish you luck mate, mine hasn't worked for the last 5 years.
Still warm enough in the winter if you've done 5 miles or so, in the summer I open the windows and the vents in the rear door window, lovely draft.
Sod all use in traffic though, even though the engine hump is insulated it can get very uncomfortable.

Worked on an LT a while ago which in a previous life had been a commercial vehicle, this had an extra rad in the back. Apart from defrosting maybe this is an option due to unavailabilty of parts.
LT28 1979 2.0 Pampas Nevada Camper LPG 93K, 1980 T3 A/C Camper 98K,1994 RRC 3.9 LPG 120k , 1998 Audi A6 Est 2.5 V6 diesel 127k

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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote mat_the_cat Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 13 Nov 11 at 22:41
Yeah, it was fine on the move but hit heavy traffic around Luxembourg this summer and it wasn't fun. Full sun, heat coming off all the lorries and temperature over 40 degrees C according to the shop signs! Still, at least the engine didn't overheat...

http://uk.rs-online.com/web/p/products/2261077/?searchTerm=226-1077
This appears to be a visually at least) identical motor, so that's my plan B!


Edited by mat_the_cat - 13 Nov 11 at 22:42
Mid engined, 6 cylinder, turbocharged 2 seater - it can only be a VW LT!
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote Mike Noc Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 13 Nov 11 at 22:50
Got the same problem - had the grille off and checked it from underneath. The fan has seized and burnt out judging from the charred bit of plastic that fell out. Might have something to do with the 13amp 240 volt domestic plug fuse in the fuse box!
Are the fans easy to strip out? Will probably replace it with something from the scrappy - will have to make up a suitable bracket.
 
Mike
 

Edited by Mike Noc - 13 Nov 11 at 22:52
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote AndyT Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 14 Nov 11 at 14:18
I think the heater box is the same on all models, it's held together with a few clips so is easy to remove. If you do find a match from a scrapper's I think there will be a few of us interested.
LT28 1979 2.0 Pampas Nevada Camper LPG 93K, 1980 T3 A/C Camper 98K,1994 RRC 3.9 LPG 120k , 1998 Audi A6 Est 2.5 V6 diesel 127k

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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote mat_the_cat Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 14 Nov 11 at 15:05
To get the heater box out you unclip the two halves and unbolt the lower section from the floor. You'll have to peel back the floor mat to get access. Then slide the lower section out and you'll be able to see the fan motor. Mine has gone back together and works on the bench!



Should have taken more pictures but to take apart the motor I had to grind away a couple of tabs that had been peened over on one end. On reassembly I did my best to peen back over again but there was obviously less material there so I used some more JB to give some extra strength.

Phoned up my local dealer and asked about the resistor board, part no. 281905109A. It's £17 something so not too bad - I've ordered that along with the motor clips which had rusted away (281265215). They are all still available from stock apparently and should be there by Wednesday.


Edited by mat_the_cat - 06 Dec 12 at 14:26
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote mcbkat Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 14 Nov 11 at 18:14
Heater motor is exactly the same as the cooling fan of an ('80s) BMW K75/K100 motorcycle.
I had one from a 1982 or 84 K100 and it looked like new!



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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote mat_the_cat Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 18 Nov 11 at 22:10
That's ironic you should say that, as my father in law has recently sold his K100! Motorworks is a good BMW spares place over here which I've used many times for my old BMW, and chances are they'd have a few second hand motors at a reasonable price

I picked up the new resistor board from the dealer today, can you tell which is which? LOL


Cut back the cables which had gone black inside, put new connectors on and connected up the rebuilt motor, and it all works!



Edited by mat_the_cat - 06 Dec 12 at 14:27
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote funky_monkey Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 18 Nov 11 at 22:55

mine went about 6 years ago and i bought a brand new one from a local vw dealer, but dont get too exited it cost 114, but hopefully wont need to touch it again as it is a nightmare to get to, but i now have one to do on a customers van.

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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote AndyT Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 19 Nov 11 at 14:28
Don't know much about electronics so simple question.
Did you actually test the resistor board (and if so how), or just replace it cos it was cheap.
LT28 1979 2.0 Pampas Nevada Camper LPG 93K, 1980 T3 A/C Camper 98K,1994 RRC 3.9 LPG 120k , 1998 Audi A6 Est 2.5 V6 diesel 127k

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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote Mike Noc Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 19 Nov 11 at 14:36
Will let you know if I can find something similar down the scrappy. Plenty of room so will just have to knock up a motor bracket to hold it in place.
 
With open wound resistors a quick visual should tell you all you need to know - normally the wire breaks and they go open circuit. They are placed in the air flow to prevent them from overheating.
 
You can test them with a multimeter to check the connections as well - higher resistance for the slower motor speeds.
 
Mike


Edited by Mike Noc - 19 Nov 11 at 21:57
'The Big Slow' LT35 1989 normally aspirated Diesel Horsebox - Gone but not forgotten.
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote mat_the_cat Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 20 Nov 11 at 21:31
Like Mike said - I could see mine were shot because one of the terminals was corroded through and the rest were very weak and disintegrated as they were moved. The actual 'resistors' were intact so could have knocked something up I suppose, but I went for the easy route as I've always got a lot of things I could be spending time on!
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote Roger Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 26 Nov 11 at 12:09
I am trying to get at my fan right now.  Removed clips from front and two sides and the bolts attaching the housing to the floor but I can't seem to get the lower section to separate from the top.  Are there clips on the back?  Did you have to  wedge the two halves apart before sliding out the lower section?  Does anyone have a diagram of the heater lower section or a photo showing how to get the lower section out?  I am assuming that I leave the upper section in place.  Help!
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote mat_the_cat Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 28 Nov 11 at 00:52
Upper section remains in place but is free to move slightly. It needs to lift up slightly as the 2 halves interlock a little, and may have stuck after 22 years! It's easier if the low level vents are set to minimum as the flaps for these should be horizontal in order to slide the lower section out.
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote Roger Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 28 Nov 11 at 09:27
Thanks. I have now got the fan out.  I used two pieces of wood to wedge against the water pipes to lift the back of the top section then a screwdriver to gently pry open the front which could then be persuaded to slide out. 
 
So now I have the fan motor with blades still attached.  Any suggestions on how I lubricate the bearings.  The fan will turn but is quite stiff.
 
Thanks
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote mat_the_cat Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 28 Nov 11 at 11:38
There are felt pads at each end of the motor shaft - if you apply a few drops of oil to those hopefully it should free up. I would suggest something thicker than WD40 should last longer, but maybe it should be counted as a service item given the location and tendency to seize up?
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote AndyT Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 28 Nov 11 at 16:21
You could try graphite powder. It's a dry lubricant often used for sticky locks etc, which is why I bought it. Cheap enough to try, cost around £3.
LT28 1979 2.0 Pampas Nevada Camper LPG 93K, 1980 T3 A/C Camper 98K,1994 RRC 3.9 LPG 120k , 1998 Audi A6 Est 2.5 V6 diesel 127k

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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote Mike Noc Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 02 Dec 11 at 18:00
Got what's left of the old fan out of The Big Slow today. Must have burnt out years ago and what didn't burn out has since rusted away. None of the cables were still connected and both commutator brushes were dangling in the wind. Its scrap.
 
Gonna try and modify an old Rover 200 fan to fit. Will need to use the existing fan blades and cut away some of the plastic supporting the current one but it should work. Thanks for the photos as it will make wiring the new fan up easier. The 200 fan is shrouded in plastic so won't be so open to the elements and should last  longer.
 
Mike
 
 
'The Big Slow' LT35 1989 normally aspirated Diesel Horsebox - Gone but not forgotten.
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote Mike Noc Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 26 Dec 11 at 23:14
Still haven't found a suitable replacement fan yet so fitted a 2 speed off ebay for a tenner. Not really strong enough but better than nothing and gives a bit of defrost on a cold day.
This was the original
 
This is the one I bought after a bit of stripping down
 
 
 
Had to cut a few bits out of the fan box
 
 
 
And  with a couple of brackets made up the end result
 
 
Wont suit the purists but at least it works.
 
Mike
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote mrhutch Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 26 Dec 11 at 23:47
fuck the purists...  nice job chap
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