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What to do to save a flat battery
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Charlie Dog View Drop Down
Yardie
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    Posted: 28 Mar 20 at 13:42
I won't be using my T5 for a few months?
Guess why :-)

Some car makers store their cars without a fuse 
so the battery doesn't go flat.

Is there a fuse or summat on a T5,
which I can remove to stop the battery going flat please?
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Stryne View Drop Down
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Yeah, just disconnect the negative lead from the battery, but first be sure you have any necessary 
codes for radio & similar before you disconnect. Make sure battery is fully charged.
2005 T5 2.5L 128Kw 6SpA LWB med. roof
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Charlie Dog View Drop Down
Yardie
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Originally posted by Stryne Stryne wrote:

Yeah, just disconnect the negative lead from the battery, but first be sure you have any necessary 
codes for radio & similar before you disconnect. Make sure battery is fully charged.

Thanks Stryne :o)

Do you know of a way to keep the ecu happy 
while the battery is disconnected please?
Our Caravelle has a whole bunch of things 
dying to go wrong.

The dealer We bought from let the battery go flat.
I think it had been flat for a long time.

It started Ok with a jump start from a knackered Ford.
It drove Ok.

It needed a serious chat a scan tool,
to get all the occard bits to work properly.

The electric sliding doors, for instance
had minds of their own.

That sorting out was included in the price of the van.
The next time it won't be :-(((

Anyone else please?
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Vanorak
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Originally posted by Charlie Dog Charlie Dog wrote:


It started Ok with a jump start from a knackered Ford.

   That part would worry me most.

Originally posted by Charlie Dog Charlie Dog wrote:

 It needed a serious chat a scan tool,
to get all the occard bits to work properly.
 

I don't know much about electric sliding doors but many things will learn over time themselves or need a simple procedure without diagnostics (like the anti-trap for the windows) to recover their base settings after battery disconnection.  

If you want a fancy solution and you have registered VCDS you could consider using 'Transport Mode' which the factory uses (I assume) to shut down everything in order to preserve all settings.  But I'm not offering myself as guinea pig for this one, be it on your own head!        
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Charlie Dog View Drop Down
Yardie
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Originally posted by T5 TDI T5 TDI wrote:



Originally posted by Charlie Dog Charlie Dog wrote:


It started Ok with a jump start from a knackered Ford.

   That part would worry me most.

At that point, it was his motor not mine.
So I watched with interest.

The other car was turning fast,
They connected up with 14.4n in the leads.

We took it for a test drive.
Nothing lit on the dash.

The fancy electronics were heywire.

Originally posted by Charlie Dog Charlie Dog wrote:

 It needed a serious chat a scan tool,
to get all the occard bits to work properly.
 

I don't know much about electric sliding doors but many things will learn over time themselves or need a simple procedure without diagnostics (like the anti-trap for the windows) to recover their base settings after battery disconnection.  

True T5, we were paying silly money.
They wanted a sale.
We wanted a sorted motor not a learner.
So they sorted it.

If you want a fancy solution and you have registered VCDS you could consider using 'Transport Mode' which the factory uses (I assume) to shut down everything in order to preserve all settings.  But I'm not offering myself as guinea pig for this one, be it on your own head!  

Thanks T5 :o)
Anyone any experience with that route please?    

If so, are you up for helping folks after the emergency?  

Anyone else got any ideas please?
I guess there's lot's of street parkers
in the same position.
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gregozedobe View Drop Down
Vanorak
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Points: -998266 		Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote gregozedobe Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 30 Mar 20 at 10:01
Originally posted by Charlie Dog Charlie Dog wrote:

Originally posted by Stryne Stryne wrote:

Yeah, just disconnect the negative lead from the battery, but first be sure you have any necessary 
codes for radio & similar before you disconnect. Make sure battery is fully charged.

The dealer We bought from let the battery go flat.
I think it had been flat for a long time.


If they didn't replace the battery it was probably damaged from being left uncharged "for a long time".  If that is the case I'd just buy a new battery when you are ready to start using it again.

If you can leave a battery tender (eg Ctek) connected to the battery to keep it charged that is the best solution.
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If they didn't replace the battery it was probably damaged from being left uncharged "for a long time".  If that is the case I'd just buy a new battery when you are ready to start using it again.

If you can leave a battery tender (eg Ctek) connected to the battery to keep it charged that is the best solution.
[/QUOTE]

Thanks Greg :o)
They fitted a nice new battery for us :o))

Please will you tell us more about battery tenders?

Why do you recommend Ctek please?

Which Ctek in particular please?
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The C-Tek MULTI XS 7000 is what is in my own van, it has a few useful modes, 
one is to mind the battery voltage while the vehicle is in storage, while battery 
is still connected.

A good idea would be to have a full diagnostic scan & clear all faults before storage, 
if disconnecting the battery. When reconnecting make sure the battery is fully 
charged (preferably a fully charged new battery)

I have never used Transport mode so I'm not sure how that would be over an 
extended period.

Trying to start with a flat battery can leave fault codes, especially Traction Control, 
although they usually clear once running for awhile.
.
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Lidl / Aldi car battery chargers work well for a fraction of the price.Isn't there a ecu re-set trick by shorting pins on the reader input or something? Just a thought as most cars with ecu's have this.
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gregozedobe View Drop Down
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Points: -998266 		Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote gregozedobe Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 31 Mar 20 at 00:34
Originally posted by Charlie Dog Charlie Dog wrote:


If they didn't replace the battery it was probably damaged from being left uncharged "for a long time".  If that is the case I'd just buy a new battery when you are ready to start using it again.

If you can leave a battery tender (eg Ctek) connected to the battery to keep it charged that is the best solution.

Thanks Greg :o)
They fitted a nice new battery for us :o))

Please will you tell us more about battery tenders?

Why do you recommend Ctek please?

Which Ctek in particular please?
[/QUOTE]

Good that you have a new battery, now you need to look after it properly.

A battery tender is a battery charger specifically designed to be left connected to a already charged battery to maintain the correct voltage at a low current level.  That is different to a conventional charger designed to charge up a flat battery quickly with a higher current.

Good ones will have a float voltage that can be set for the particular battery type you have (eg EFB, AGM etc), this ensures optimum charging voltage and maintenance for longer battery life.

I mentioned Ctek as they seem popular and most owners are happy with them.

I'm not familiar with the different Ctek models, so I can't recommend a particular model.  Get one that can be adjusted for different sorts of batteries so it will last you a long time and suit different cars as well.
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Originally posted by Stryne Stryne wrote:

The C-Tek MULTI XS 7000 is what is in my own van, it has a few useful modes, 
one is to mind the battery voltage while the vehicle is in storage, while battery 
is still connected.

A good idea would be to have a full diagnostic scan & clear all faults before storage, 
if disconnecting the battery. When reconnecting make sure the battery is fully 
charged (preferably a fully charged new battery)

I have never used Transport mode so I'm not sure how that would be over an 
extended period.

Trying to start with a flat battery can leave fault codes, especially Traction Control, 
although they usually clear once running for awhile.
.

Thanks Stryne :o)

The CTek MULTI XS 7000 you have seems a nice piece of kit.
Does it restart at the programme you set it to
after say a power out, or you swap it from one car to another please?

Anyone else go any ideas please :o)
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Charlie Dog View Drop Down
Yardie
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Originally posted by gregozedobe gregozedobe wrote:

Originally posted by Charlie Dog Charlie Dog wrote:


If they didn't replace the battery it was probably damaged from being left uncharged "for a long time".  If that is the case I'd just buy a new battery when you are ready to start using it again.

If you can leave a battery tender (eg Ctek) connected to the battery to keep it charged that is the best solution.

Thanks Greg :o)
They fitted a nice new battery for us :o))

Please will you tell us more about battery tenders?

Why do you recommend Ctek please?

Which Ctek in particular please?

Good that you have a new battery, now you need to look after it properly.

A battery tender is a battery charger specifically designed to be left connected to a already charged battery to maintain the correct voltage at a low current level.  That is different to a conventional charger designed to charge up a flat battery quickly with a higher current.

Good ones will have a float voltage that can be set for the particular battery type you have (eg EFB, AGM etc), this ensures optimum charging voltage and maintenance for longer battery life.

I mentioned Ctek as they seem popular and most owners are happy with them.

I'm not familiar with the different Ctek models, so I can't recommend a particular model.  Get one that can be adjusted for different sorts of batteries so it will last you a long time and suit different cars as well.
[/QUOTE]

Thanks Greg.
I've heard good things about Ctek too :o)

Anyone else got any ideas please :o)
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Originally posted by Monster LT Monster LT wrote:

Lidl / Aldi car battery chargers work well for a fraction of the price.Isn't there a ecu re-set trick by shorting pins on the reader input or something? Just a thought as most cars with ecu's have this.


Thanks Yardie 

I've got a Lidl charger.
Mine stops charging every now and then.
Which means I have to check the B****y thing,
every few days :-(

Does that happen with yours please?

Anyone know anything about the shorting pins
on the reader input please?

Anyone else got an ideas please :o)
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I have used the Aldi and Lidl ctek style chargers, both suffer with the same issue that when you have a mains power fail for whatever reason even for 5 seconds it resets the charger then you have to click on the mode button to put it into the correct program for your vehicle (motorbike, car, float/frost).

If you don't do this it just sits there not charging.

I had this 18 months ago, not picked up on a small power outage (nothing in the house had reset) yet the charger had gone into standby mode awaiting input from me!

Result was when I tried to start the van / having let battery get so low it zapped the ABS control module turned on fairy lights on dash so couldn t not van and £500 later for repair 4 months off the road all for not keeping battery charged correctly!

Now I have been using a Newmax 20a charger from Tayna batteries about £100 and its fantastic. No need to reset after power outage, permanently connected via 13a plug in camper, so as soon as mains hook up is connected battery goes on charge and with 20a output powers any 12v devices connected to my various sockets. It is a great device, that balances the cells in the battery, charges it sensitively and then float charges it when full. Best £100 I have spent.

Final icing on the cake is that I bought a Draper car to car charge cable, which is a micro controlled cigar to cigar socket battery charge lead.  So I plug this into my leisure 12v socket and the other end into dash 12v socket.

This now charges both batteries and is excellent and is on hand in an emergency.

All the best

Paul
Keep Smiling Another Day Tomorrow! :-)

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Charlie Dog View Drop Down
Yardie
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Originally posted by happyhooker happyhooker wrote:

I have used the Aldi and Lidl ctek style chargers, both suffer with the same issue that when you have a mains power fail for whatever reason even for 5 seconds it resets the charger then you have to click on the mode button to put it into the correct program for your vehicle (motorbike, car, float/frost).

If you don't do this it just sits there not charging.

I had this 18 months ago, not picked up on a small power outage (nothing in the house had reset) yet the charger had gone into standby mode awaiting input from me!

Result was when I tried to start the van / having let battery get so low it zapped the ABS control module turned on fairy lights on dash so couldn t not van and £500 later for repair 4 months off the road all for not keeping battery charged correctly!  Owch :-(

Now I have been using a Newmax 20a charger from Tayna batteries about £100 and its fantastic. No need to reset after power outage, permanently connected via 13a plug in camper, so as soon as mains hook up is connected battery goes on charge and with 20a output powers any 12v devices connected to my various sockets. It is a great device, that balances the cells in the battery, charges it sensitively and then float charges it when full. Best £100 I have spent.

Final icing on the cake is that I bought a Draper car to car charge cable, which is a micro controlled cigar to cigar socket battery charge lead.  So I plug this into my leisure 12v socket and the other end into dash 12v socket.

From my end of the telescope,
your charger voltage should flip the relay
between main and leisure batteries.

Draper say to use their charger outside the car,
I see a fire risk with car to car chargers too.
To charge the second battery,
they have to bump the voltage up, 
Gadgets that bump up voltages
usually get hot.

If your slave battery is inside your van,
has it got a breather pipe 
to take fumes outside your van?

This now charges both batteries and is excellent and is on hand in an emergency.

All the best

Paul

Thanks Paul :o)
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