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LT Mk1 1983 2.4D DW - engine running problems

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Blix99 View Drop Down
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    Posted: 11 Mar 20 at 18:00
Hello.

I wonder if anyone can help with the running of my recently acquired LT mk1 28d.

It has a 2.4 D DW engine (non turbo)

Here's the story:

I bought the van about a month ago. It had been sat in an industrial unit for about 3 years and not started. I couldn't get it running at the time. It just turned over and over.

I trailered it home and put in some diesel. It had some in but obviously old but I just topped it up to make sure it had something in it to get it running.

I primer the pump (filled up the low pressure side), turned it over a few times and it started, albeit with a lot of white smoke.

It idled nicely, despite the smoke, but I could see bubbles coming up the line from the second filter to the injection pump (a bosch VE)

Also, when I stopped it, the fuel drew back down to the filter (and beyond probably but i couldn't see that.)

Long story short, I fitted a new fuel  filter under the wheel arch (no idea why it has two) but it wouldn't pull the fuel from the tank, even when both were primed.
So, I bypassed the filter under the arch and just went direct to the one on the engine.
This cured the bubbles but the fuel still  drew back from the pump when stopped.

As a result, it took a while to crank over but did draw fuel up the the pump and ran ok, but still with lots of white smoke

So, I discovered the end shaft seal on the VE pump was drawing in air.
I've just changed this today and the fuel drawing back has been cured. The fuel stays in the pipe.

Great, I thought.

But now the engine turns over for maybe 5 seconds, fires up and revs for maybe 2 seconds then stops. I turn the key again, same thing.

It just will not run. I just don't understand this. Is there anything that curing the air leak could have affected?

If I push the throttle right in, it will stay running but very poorly,; it really chugs, hunts and stalls still smokes and will die if I release the throttle.
All much worse that when I started.

I also replaced the return pipes on each of the injectors and the pump timing was slightly misaligned with TDC (I assume this if the thin line and zero on the flywheel that is lined up with the little nobble on the bell housing. There is another thin line to the left of this, maybe 2 cm away)

So, now, when TDC, all the lines on the pump bracket and pump wheel are in line but this made no difference to the running.

I had thought maybe the misalignment was someone's effort to counteract the air leak by advancing or something?

All this has been over the last couple of weeks and every time I think I've sorted it, something else pops up. I'm at my wits end.
I'm no mechanic and am just learning about this engine as i go along.
The van is stuck on my drive until I can move it. It's too heavy to keep pushing it.

Any ideas? I know it's difficult without seeing it but any ideas very gratefully received.

Or if there is anyone near me more competent that could take a look? I'm just off Jn4a of the M3 in Fleet, Hampshire.

I'll maybe post a video if it helps.

Any help very gratefully received. Thanks in advance.
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nooberdoober View Drop Down
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote nooberdoober Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 12 Mar 20 at 15:11
I believe that you should have the timing dimple lined up on the bell housing with the line that's 2 cm away as that should be the btdc mark. I might be wrong. That probably won't fix it though, its just the correct setting for when you find the real problem. Is the number 1 piston in the correct position when your timing marks are aligned? Could it be that the timing has been tinkered with and the engine is on the wrong stroke but still lining up on the flywheel?
I got me a 2.4 straight Six......and it's a soundin JUICY!

1984 LT40 2.4 petrol Coachbuilt Autotrail Motorhome
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Blix99 View Drop Down
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote Blix99 Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 12 Mar 20 at 16:12
Hi. Thanks for the reply and your input.

I don't think it's a timing issue because it was running OK before i changed the seal, albeit after having to draw the fuel up the pipe and with much smoke.

So, I set the crank to TDC via the flywheel. This is where the pump timing marks were set to before i began.

Then, all I've done is remove the pump pulley wheel, making sure not to move anything else, fitted the new seal, put it all back together and now it won't run properly at all.

I just don't get it but think it must be something to do with the lack of air or an air lock or something.

I forgot to mention that I've cracked open the injector pipes on the actual injectors one by one to see if the have fuel and all seem to have fuel.

It would be incredibly coincidental if it was something unrelated that has happened during the seal change.

I'm really stumped but don't know if there might be an airlock somewhere or how to check, other than what I have done already?? Or what else it might be?
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Blix99 View Drop Down
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote Blix99 Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 12 Mar 20 at 19:15
I said I didn’t think it was a timing issue above. I meant engine timing rather than injection timing. I do think it might be something related to this. 

I took a video but will gave to upload it
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nooberdoober View Drop Down
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote nooberdoober Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 13 Mar 20 at 08:32
What Im saying is that you've touched the fly wheel..... flywheel marks can be lined up perfectly but engine stroke still be 180degrees out.  I'd be checking to see if I'd made this mistake.
I got me a 2.4 straight Six......and it's a soundin JUICY!

1984 LT40 2.4 petrol Coachbuilt Autotrail Motorhome
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Blix99 View Drop Down
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote Blix99 Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 14 Mar 20 at 13:34
Thanks for the reply again. I appreciate your time.

I'm not sure what you mean by 'you've touched the flywheel' Can you please explain. All I have done is view the marks on the flywheel through the slot below the injection pump. Also, I lined this all up before I took the pump pulley offf and nothing moved until it was all back together, other than maybe a couple of mm. However, this might be enough to mess things up?

Also, are you saying two rotations of the flywheel is one cylinder cycle?


Finally, here is a video of that the engine does.

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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote jon_huw Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 23 Apr 20 at 07:47
I'd be double checking timing, rotating engine fully and using the timing pins for pump, setting plate for camshaft then once that is correct you need to tweak the pump to its correct position using a dti gauge. All fairly straight forward and the only way to be sure your timing is spot on. You could perhaps be a tooth out if you've had injector pump sprocket off.
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BeJay View Drop Down
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote BeJay Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 23 Apr 20 at 09:14
Originally posted by Blix99 Blix99 wrote:


Also, are you saying two rotations of the flywheel is one cylinder cycle?


   Yes he is, on a 4 stroke engine (which yours is) starting from TDC the first down stroke of the piston draws in the fuel/air mixture (induction stroke), first upstroke then compresses the mixture (compression stroke), second downstroke is when the fuel/air mixture explodes (burns very rapidly) forcing the piston down (power stroke), second upstroke forces out the spent fuel/air mixture (exhaust stroke) making 2 revolutions for 1 complete cycle, very basic explanation but that's basically how a 4 stroke engine works.
   Having said all that looking/listening to your video it seems as if it fires up no problem then immediately starves of fuel so it might be worth checking out your stop solenoid or the 12v feed to it, as the way the engine stops when yo turn off the ignition is because that cuts the 12v feed to the stop solenoid which cuts the fuel feed to the engine, so it obviously needs a continuous 12v feed for the engine to keep running, just a thought.
NIL ILLIGITIMUS CARBORUNDUM
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nooberdoober View Drop Down
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote nooberdoober Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 24 Apr 20 at 09:56
Odd though, that it will keep running all be it poorly if the throttle is engaged.
I got me a 2.4 straight Six......and it's a soundin JUICY!

1984 LT40 2.4 petrol Coachbuilt Autotrail Motorhome
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